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In this Discussion
- creepjohnny February 2008
- FORD PARTS MAN April 2008
- kerpal April 2008
- Steve E. February 2008
1959 ford rewiring help ! ! !
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hey guys, I'm in the middle of a rewiring job on my 59 ford. I got everything hooked up properly and am having some issues. this car was running perfect with the crappy exposed original wiring, but the rest of the car was in need so I switched to a fuse block kit.
when I turn the key the engine cranks but doesn't catch, and then the starter makes a god awful roar noise and then a good amount of white smoke puff from the carb.
the carb is new, and worked prior, coil is giving spark, wires are in correct places.... WTF
I thought some ideas from around the nation could be of help.
thanks guys -
Do you have the wire hooked up from the starter solenoid to the coil? also from the ign sw to the coil thru the ign resistor? sounds like maybe one of them was left out. Shouild be two wires hooked to the pos/ ign side of the coil. Starts on the bypass from the sol and runs on the one from the resistor. coil may be giving spark, but is it enough?
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the kit did not say anything about a wire to the + coil other than the one from the fuse block. the wire from the fuse block to the +coil has a ballast resistor before it gets to the coil..... on the starter selenoid, I have the battery and the main ign wire on front post, a starter switch wire on the S post, nothing on the I post and the cable to the starter on the back post. I checked the spark from the coil and it was faint, so where would this other wire to the +coil come from?? this kit is not factory original, its a fuse block kit that makes everything self ground, no relay or regulators. thank you for your help.
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I think that may be your problem. Temporarily run a wire from the I post on the solenoid to the + terminal on the coil and try to start it.
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that was the problem, thank you for your time and advise
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You're quite welcome. Several years ago a friend of mine put a 289 in his 56 Ford P.U. He and the family took off for Glamis for the weekend. They didn't get back 'till wednesday. They were stranded out there for 3 days 'cause the truck wouldn't start. He came by and asked if I could help him out. The first thing I noticed was the missing wire from the solenoid to the coil to which he replied"Oh, you don't need that on there". I hooked a jumpeer between the two terminals and asked him to start the truck. It lit right off and made a believer out of him. These systems start on 12 volts and run on 6 to 9 volts depending on the make of vehicle. When you don't have the bypass. the startyer takes most of the current and you wind up with 4 or 5 volts to the coil.
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its funny what makes these cars go. I actually have 1 more question. in wiring the instrument cluster, I hooked gauge power to the fuel gauge and temp gauge, and then wired the 2 gauges with their sending unit wire and the needle went to the top when I turned the car on, I switched the wires and it did the same thing, I noticed that it has a gauge voltage regulator on the back in the cluster panel, how does that fall into play?? the stock wiring diagram says the regulator gets power and then the other post goes to the fuel/temp gauges. I tried every which way possible to wire it and am still having problems with it, this is the last thing left on the car, everything else is working fine. thanks again for your help.
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Ign switch to volt. reg. then to hot side of each gauge, then hook appropriate sender wire to each gauge. Should work unless gauge or sender is faulty. Did the needles go to the top with engine running?
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I tried it with the car running and just the key in the 'on' and got the same results. ...before I rewired the car the gas gauge worked.(or so it seemed, it would only go to 1/4 full which it probably accurate, temp was not hooked up to engine block therfore the gauge never moved. the regulator on the back of the cluster only has one marking on it which says IGN, I take it thats where I put the wire from the ign switch, and the other post splits to the outer posts of the gauges (at least the stock wiring diagram says the hot is the outer posts on the gauges). now the kit came with a 'gauge power' wire, which is what I am using now to power the gauges, should I discard that and run a wire from the IGN post on the ign switch to the cluster, just like how it was stock???
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The gauges want to see from 3-10 volts that is why the regulator is on the back. hot wire to the regulator, then to the fuel gauge and the temp gauge. If regulator is bad you can search on internet for a solid state one. There is someone in Kansas I believe that is making them...
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creepjohnny wrote:the kit did not say anything about a wire to the + coil other than the one from the fuse block. the wire from the fuse block to the +coil has a ballast resistor before it gets to the coil..... on the starter selenoid, I have the battery and the main ign wire on front post, a starter switch wire auto body part on the S post, nothing on the I post and the cable to the starter on the back post. I checked the spark from the coil and it was faint, so where would this other wire to the +coil come from?? this kit is not factory original, its a fuse block kit that makes everything self ground, no relay or regulators. thank you for your help.
Hmmm, I think its the wire from the Ipost on the solenoid then to the terminal coil... -
You Did Not Mention 1959 Car Or Truck. If The Regulator Is Bad You Can Buy It "new Old Stock" From Green Sales In Ohio. 1-800-543-4959.
They Show As Having Both Of Them On The Parts Locator.
Car Is Part Number B7a10804b.
Truck Is Part Number B9mz10804c.
