ClassicCar

drivergo2

Is this a good system to go to Is it cost effective .Its going in a 53 308 gone thru but not totaly rebuilt.Its a twin H thanks John drivergo2

SuperDave

I have one in my 262 and love it..12 volt version..

drivergo2

This would be 6 volt is their a big difference in this application. I see the have one ,Has any one out there used one? Thanks John

51hornetA

I have the 6V in my 51 Hornet part number 1362P6 I also have there coil and plug wires all works beautifully.

Dave53-7C

51hornetA wrote:

I have the 6V in my 51 Hornet part number 1362P6 I also have there coil and plug wires all works beautifully.

You have non-stock parts on your car? :eek:

51hornetA

Nope they are stock I had them stocked on my shelf so I put them in. Work like a charm and no more pissing around with points and condensors.

bob ward

Put the Pertronix in.

Dave53-7C

51hornetA wrote:

Nope they are stock I had them stocked on my shelf so I put them in. Work like a charm and no more pissing around with points and condensors.

I thought you mechanical types liked to change points. Your set-up is probably a godsend for a distributor with worn cam lobes. Sounds like a GM HEI set-up with a divorced coil. As long as you're happy with it that's all that counts.

royer

I'm really happy with my 6V Pertronix I got from Russ and Randy Maas. I sent my entire distributor to them and it came back a few days later looking like a new unit. It works wonderfully!

464Saloon

I have the Pertronix 12v with their flame thrower coil im my 54 Hornet. Also have one in my 68 442 and my 55 F-100. All three work great.

drivergo2

Thanks for the info you guys. John drivergo2

Jay G

I have the 6v version on my 53 308 stroker. Works like a dream. I hid the wires so no one could tell.

Jay

Jim Kilday

Will the Per Tronix system work in a 1946 8-cylinder engine?

hornet53

buying the pertronix kit and the coil. They sell an oil filled coil and an epoxy filled one. since the 308 mounts upside down, should I get the epoxy or the oil, or does it make a difference?

Dave53-7C

Epoxy coils are good where high vibration is a factor.Oil filled coils are supposed to cool better but are supposed to leak when installed upside down.* However, I believe that the original coils were oil filled and I've seen many that did not appear to have leaked...yet.

ski4life65

I bought the epoxy one about a year ago. No problems...works great. If you are going for original appearence, maybe the oil filled would look better, since the epoxy filled is all "plastic". I don't think too many people would really notice though.

To answer your question, I don't think it makes much difference. I would be really surprised if the oil filled would ever leak.

Don

super651

drivergo2.

Could you take a picture of the one in your Dist. (the complete set-up)

Thanks so much. Rudy

drivergo2

MY hornets in a garage at my Inlaws I cant get to it right away. Anybody out there that can take a picture of theirs for him. Thanks John drivergo2:)

tattooman

Anybody know how to get ahold of Russ or Randy Maas? I saw their names in a post about the petronix. I'm looking for someone who can tell me if it'll work on my car. I'm running a IGS 4213 distributor on the 308 in my '49 and would really like to switch to a Petronix system. I have a spare distributor ready for a conversion and if they're set up to do the job, I'd love to talk with them... Thanks, Aaron

maasfh

Hi Aaron,

email at hetmaasfh@ntslink.net Drop het

phone 309=267-6158

Randy maas

walts garage-53 · walts garage-53 March 2008 Posts: 1,470Platinum Member

drivergo2 wrote:

Is this a good system to go to Is it cost effective .Its going in a 53 308 gone thru but not totaly rebuilt.Its a twin H thanks John drivergo2

Going to electronic ignition is the best thing you can do. When I decided I needed electronic ignition there was nothing available, six years ago, so I took a 1980 AMC Concord distributor, took it to my machine shop along with a regular distributor and tool them install the shaft in it. This they did and then I installed a Jacobs brain box and what a difference in performance. Went to KGB plugs set a 48 thousands and got 2 more miles per gallon. Before that I could not make a complete trip around the country without resetting the points and gas mileage would drop off. Six trip around this country since and never had to touch the distributor since. Yes, I'm 12 volts. Have air and cruise control. If I keep it under 90 I get 22 to 23 MPG.

super651

Walt,what # is on the KGB Plugs ?

Thanks Rudy

Ol racer

Hi

Just to be different (Well at the time I talked with Pertonix and nothing was available like now, but they said to send my Dist for evauation on a cost Estimate) so I bought a Crane XR700 Universal 4 - 6cyl Point Conversion Kit on EBay and fit into my Dist (easily). Discard the points & condenser then screwed in tiny photo cell running wires thru side hole then a thin washer goes on underneath rotor... A small 'box' mounts on firewall using stock coil. (Its 12V Only)). The Crane Unit interfaces with all MSD Electronic Boxes.. I liked it so well I bought another for my next motor. Crane is another Option if have 12V System.....

walts garage-53 · walts garage-53 March 2008 Posts: 1,470Platinum Member

super651 wrote:

Walt,what # is on the KGB Plugs ?

Thanks Rudy

Rudy, they are NGK's #B6HS. Have a little ver 50,000 miles on them and they still look new. The first year the spark was melting the electros on Champions, first H-11 then H-10 Then H-8 till I called JACOBS and they told me to use NGK but I would have to find the correct heat range. Talking with the dealer I went to a medium range and they are perfect. I don't think a Petronic set up will work for these plugs unless you play with heat range. Walt.

walts garage-53 · walts garage-53 March 2008 Posts: 1,470Platinum Member

super651 wrote:

Walt,what # is on the KGB Plugs ?

Thanks Rudy

The plugs are a light brown color which means they are perfect. I also played with the carburetors and closed the main jet 2 thousands. Wa-1's 968's and jet is 101 and now i'm 099. Running race cars for 35 years taught me about jetting. Walt.

`Hudsonator

walt's garage-53 wrote:

The plugs are a light brown color which means they are perfect. I also played with the carburetors and closed the main jet 2 thousands. Wa-1's 968's and jet is 101 and now i'm 099. Running race cars for 35 years taught me about jetting. Walt.

Walt,

Where did you find calibrated parts for these carburetors?

Mark

walts garage-53 · walts garage-53 March 2008 Posts: 1,470Platinum Member

`Hudsonator wrote:

Walt,

Where did you find calibrated parts for these carburetors?

Mark

I have a book that list every carburetor made from 1916 to 1975 and list every part # and drill size. I rebuild carbs, all makes and have all the tools needed. Carter WA-! take a special metering rod tool along with all WDO's and WGD's 2 barrells. W-1's and all the other WA-1 have settings that must be followed. Float, mettering rods, accelerator pump, linkage rod to pump and meter pins. The anti-percolator adjustment is a must as this if not set correctly will make hard starting after you shut of a hot engine. If jet are worn they have to be replaced or remachined which I have a machinest that does doctors equipment repairs and he likes to work on small stuff. Walt.

duncan

Hi Walt I was given back a Edmunds twin 2 barrel alluminum intake

last weekend. I was thinking of putting it on our 54 Hornet Hollywood.

I have 3 2115s 2 bbl carbs that come with the intake. how much would you charge to rebuild them and do what is necessary and any ideas on

linkage. duncan

walts garage-53 · walts garage-53 March 2008 Posts: 1,470Platinum Member

duncan wrote:

Hi Walt I was given back a Edmunds twin 2 barrel alluminum intake

last weekend. I was thinking of putting it on our 54 Hornet Hollywood.

I have 3 2115s 2 bbl carbs that come with the intake. how much would you charge to rebuild them and do what is necessary and any ideas on

linkage. duncan

The first thing that must be done is to reset the main jets to what one 2115s was when used on the Hudson manifold. 2 stock carburetors on that Edmunds would flood your engine with gas and wash the cylinders down. After I figure what the main jets will have to be in each carb I would then add 2 thousand more to them. The idle jets and the intermediate jets will also have to closed a few thousands. People are going to tell you install them as is but you will not get the performance or gas mileage. If you are going to run a drag strip where you get the RPM over 3,000 off the line that's fine, but not highway driving. Cost will have to be somewhere in the 600 to 800 range which includes the kits and machine work. Without the manifold and carbs setting on the manifold, linkage will be hard to say. This is a job that needs a block with a head on it plus the intake then linkage can be made. I have this set up. I just finished putting a Hornet Twin H in a 47 Commodore 8 and made the throttle linkage. Walt.

duncan

Hi Walt Thanks for the post. I have not started driving our car yet. The

car has a twih H set up on now but the carbs were pluged solid so found

a set of Holley single barrel carbs . It runs very good. My question is

Would the Edmund intake be better or worse when fixed properly.

What is your opinion . I like Hiway use but also taking off from lights.

if you know what I meen. duncan

51hornetA

Twin H manifold is better for gas distribution than the Edmunds. The Edmunds being aluminum is much lighter. I would go with the Twin H intake. There is a guy in St.Albert that will rebuild your Carters for you he does a good job. Send me an email I will send you info. He also has all the jetting tools so he can rejet to factory spec, lean etc. Whatever you want.

rambos_ride

51hornetA wrote:

I have the 6V in my 51 Hornet part number 1362P6 I also have there coil and plug wires all works beautifully.

1362P6 IGNITOR CHRYSLER 6 CYL 6V POS GND $146.08

This is the description and price on the Pertronix website, Just thought I'd double check against your install.

150.00'ish seems a bit pricey ~ does someone know of a less expensive source?

Harry Hill

Dan, that sounds about right for what I spent on my Hash ignition, I also bought the coil. Now I'm wondering if I want to go over to 12 volt do I have to buy a whole new set up or can I run a voltage drop to the coil and distributer? Actually the 6 volts seems okay except on cold mornings or when the car is hot, then I don't think I have enough power. I think my anti percolator valves aren't set right as the car doesn't like to start after it's warm. I need more amp hours in case I have to crank it over more than I think. I always feel like I'm running out of battery.

Harry

51hornetA

Yup thats the right part #

walts garage-53 · walts garage-53 March 2008 Posts: 1,470Platinum Member

Harry Hill wrote:

Dan, that sounds about right for what I spent on my Hash ignition, I also bought the coil. Now I'm wondering if I want to go over to 12 volt do I have to buy a whole new set up or can I run a voltage drop to the coil and distributer? Actually the 6 volts seems okay except on cold mornings or when the car is hot, then I don't think I have enough power. I think my anti percolator valves aren't set right as the car doesn't like to start after it's warm. I need more amp hours in case I have to crank it over more than I think. I always feel like I'm running out of battery.

Harry

BESIDES THE ANTI- PERCULATOR VALVE BEING SET CORRECTLY THERE IS ANOTHER THING I DO TO CARTER CARBS TO HELP HOT STARTS. ASK IVAN ZAREMBA, I DO ALL HIS CARBS. Another thing is the intake manifold, it has to be cleaned out in the heat chamber for if it's packed solid it boils the gas and that is bad. You will get lots of answers but do it my way and enjoy the ride. Walt.

Harry Hill

Walt, I cleaned the heat chamber when I had the manifolds apart, what is your way?

Harry

walts garage-53 · walts garage-53 March 2008 Posts: 1,470Platinum Member

Harry Hill wrote:

Walt, I cleaned the heat chamber when I had the manifolds apart, what is your way?

Harry

After you knock the plugs out, be careful not to break that inner lip take a metal coat hanger, cut it to have a straight wire and start poking through every hole. Do this outside for when you start using air you will be in a dark cloud. Take your time and go into every hole at all angles and keep blowing air. When you think you have all you can out, set it into a tub, holes up and fill it with kerosene or diedel fluid as they are both the same. That is why when road trucks cross state lines the inspectors insert a stick into their tanks and if it comes out the wrong color that means they put kerosene in their tank and did not pay the big diesel tax. Let it set for 2 days and then poke it again with the coat hanger and use plenty of air pressure. Then flush it with a high pressure nozzle and you will have a new manifold. In summer time tie your heat riser open. I take all heat risers out of the exhaust manifold for cars that are in warm climate.

Harry Hill

Wallt, are you referring to the freeze plugs on the intake manifold?

Harry

walts garage-53 · walts garage-53 March 2008 Posts: 1,470Platinum Member

Harry Hill wrote:

Wallt, are you referring to the freeze plugs on the intake manifold?

Harry

That is correct. Be careful knocking them out. Walt.

Harry Hill

Walt, when I had the manifolds off I scoped the inside and found no carbon build up anywhere in my manifolds, if I remember correctly I could see the back side of the freeze plugs and everything was clean as a whistle.

Harry

ClassicCar

Howdy, Stranger!

Categories

In this Discussion

We'd love to hear from you! info@classiccar.com