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In this Discussion
- BADHUDSON June 2007
- bill a June 2007
- Chuck G June 2007
- dynolou2 June 2007
- gearhead June 2007
- mars55 June 2007
- Maverickhudson June 2007
- russmaas June 2007
- Steve E. June 2007
- the_vettguy June 2007
Brake Parts
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I need the front wheel cylinders and brake shoes fo a 1953 Hornet. Does anyone know of a source for these parts? Do I need to replace the whole shoe or replace the lining only? Thanks.
Jim G
Reedley, CA -
Wheel cylinders 1 1/8 inch Raybestos wc 36017 & wc 36018, any parts store should be able to cross reference from those current #s. Shoes are specific to Hudson, top anchor mount is in a different position. If you can find someone in your area to reline them, bring them your cores. If not WTN has listings for exchange shoe sets. Hold down hardwear wagner F194695, return springs Raybestos H 111. Good Luck hudsonly Lou Cote
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Thanks for the help.
Jim G -
I went to Carquest and they had brake shoes in stock which made them my new number one stop for anything automotive part related. That trumped the gorgeous girl to flirt with at Schucks
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Try Kanter auto. They have a great aupply of Hudson Parts.
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the_vettguy wrote:Try Kanter auto. They have a great aupply of Hudson Parts.
I would think twic about Kanter, i had bought a 50 that had all the Kanter goodies,and ended up removing the inners from the so called new master and replacing them with a real Hudson propper sized plunger and piston, i could get her to blead out and that was what i found after fighting with it a day or so. besides he is real proud of his parts,price that is. -
To maverick Hudson in Bellingham: the top anchor point of the shoes that you bought is in the wrong position. Careful exam of old shoes , if the correct ones had been installed years ago, would show the crescent area to be narrower at top not centered as on ford shoes. Walt Mordenti had a fix for this, but it escapes me at this time. Hudsonly Lou Cote
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gearhead wrote:I would think twic about Kanter, i had bought a 50 that had all the Kanter goodies,and ended up removing the inners from the so called new master and replacing them with a real Hudson propper sized plunger and piston, i could get her to blead out and that was what i found after fighting with it a day or so. besides he is real proud of his parts,price that is.
you are correct about Kanter. I have had the same problem. I could not get the rear brakes to work because of small pistons. They would push all the way out before touching the pads. You would think that Kanter would figure this out ?? -
im still having issues with these brakes, disconecting the backup cables is allowing a full bleed, adjusting the shoes tight prior to bleeding and still have a soft pedal with poor braking. i didnt buy this kit it came with the car. the previous owner did install the front brakes hoses and cyls and the hardware kit and lines back,we went in and rechecked the math before anything continued and a few things were missed but corrected i did mention the mastrer issue i had found and that helped big time but still not the way it should,we have blead and blead the brakes with no air in the line what so ever, i have never had such problems with a brake system in all my wrenching,i have done hundreds maybe thousands of brake jobs thru my life and this one has us stumped. could it be that the cyls are short in the rear? and we are having to pump it up for the travel? or i have been hearing shoe differance? centering pin? we breezed thru the 54 and that was replaced sgoes from Napa,and cyls form them as well. they work graet, anyway any help or advise would help. thanks guys
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dynolou2 wrote:To maverick Hudson in Bellingham: the top anchor point of the shoes that you bought is in the wrong position. Careful exam of old shoes , if the correct ones had been installed years ago, would show the crescent area to be narrower at top not centered as on ford shoes. Walt Mordenti had a fix for this, but it escapes me at this time. Hudsonly Lou Cote
See the 2006 July/August issue of the White Triangle News (WTN). Walt Mordenti wrote an article on how to fix this problem on pages 16 and 17. -
If a new master cylinder was installed you need to check the travel of the plunger. The plunger has to have a constant force on it or it will draw air when released back giving soft brake or loss of brake. Take the cap off the master cylinder and look into the hole and see if you see bubbles upon release of the brake.
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And what if you dont have that copy of 2006 July/August issue of the White Triangle News (WTN). Anyone have that on hand?
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Maverickhudson wrote:And what if you dont have that copy of 2006 July/August issue of the White Triangle News (WTN). Anyone have that on hand?
Back issues of the White Triangle News are $5.00 and can got from:
L. E. Crowe
5420 Poyner Oaks Rd
Polk City, FL 33868
863-984-4435
To whose who don't know, the White Triangle News is the official publication of the Hudson-Essex-Terraplane Club and is well worth the dues the club changes to receive the magazine. -
I sell new master cylinders $52.00 ea. + shipping new casting no dryrot, all fresh. not NOS. I have been selling for years but on Ebay. just got my HET membership this year again first time in about 5-6 years. never any problems and I will guarentee them from defects.
Kenny Cordle
Classic Packaging & Supplies
5002 S. Walnut St.
South Bloomfield, Ohio 43103 -
Now that I am retired I hate having to pay extra for parts for my hudson from places like Kanter and other people. At that price for a master cylinder i might just buy one from you in case I need an extra in the future. I am in the market for another car this year.
