ClassicCar

46HudsonPU

Just changed my ISP - Lousy connection with Verizon DSL. I was at the limit of their coverage, so speed was slow, and and the connection kept dropping due that & static on the line.

Verizon lost no time in removing my web page. Until I can find a place for a new one & rebuild it, White Triangle Trucking will be 'dark'.

On the bright side - Have been working on my shed electric, lights, compressor & lines, as well as ordering & receiving the vinyl siding for it (came yesterday, now I have to install it).

Question - Other than condensation, is there any reason why PVC won't work for compressor air lines?

davidh

interesting.. ... never considered it. i did 1-1/4" copper from the compresson to the drops but i think i would not be afraid to try pvc itf it would handle the 175 psi of the system. . . .

davidh

air tool service business. . . . .

Swasp76063

PVC works fine for air lines. I am currently doing some work in a 1 Million square foot plant that has all PVC for their air lines and have seen numerous facilities that use it. Just make sure of the PSI rating as mentioned before.
Bob

mrsbojigger

What about UV deteriation and always being under pressure? The sun can do bad things to plastic here in Texas.
Peace,
Chaz

tombia

Schedule 40 PVC has a 600psi rating. So go for it. The reason's why not to use it, are if you snag a line it can/will break the line and if anything hits it hard it will also break. So you just have to be gracefull around it. Also use BRASS DROP ELBOWS where you terminate your connectors and fasten them to the wall securely. Ask your local Lowes/Home Depot plumbing guru what the are. They should know.But don't tell them what you are doing.

faustmb

We have used PVC for air lines in the last few places I have worked. We took extra care to secure it well and used the higher PSI rated tubing. We have had no issues with it and maintained 150 PSI in the lines at all times to run our machinery.

We ran the main feeds with 2" to act as an additional surge tank up to the individual drops. Also I would suggest that you run the pipes with a slight angle to allow moisture to drain out and put a ball valve at the low point to make it easy to drain.

Good luck,

Matt

rambos_ride

Verizon sux!

I will NEVER give them another penny in my life - the company the buys them - won't give them any money either!

Verizon totally screwed my business DSL install up to the tune of around 500.00 out of my pocket. I dropped their DSL and Phone immdediately after that..

Cosmo@avaloncity.com

I own my own servers. I am sure I can host your site if you want. Just give me a call and we can work it out. Drop me a line.

jamcoats

I prefer black iron for air but have used PVC before. At pressures under 175#it doesn't scare me too much. The issue with PVC is as mentioned before, its ability to withstand a snag or impact, and secondly, how the connections are made. I have seen a few PVC systems blow apart, and it was always at a solvent connection, i.e. an elbow or tee. Correct on using brass elbows for the drops, and make sure you mount the whole system securely.

If you want to make things really nice, just after your compressor, install a series of drops to eliminate moisture. This works better with iron than it does with PVC as the iron will be colder and more moisture will condense, but it will work decently with PVC. I have this in my shop and painted numerous cars with it. You'll want to use at least approx. 50 feet of vertical drop, so in an 8' cieling, use at least 6 drops and valves. See my crude drawing:

SuperDave

Mine has been in service 'bout13 years. I use PVC and have had a few failures. Always at an el. Don't know why, it's been different brand els and in different places. Scares the helloutaya! Anchore it well so it won't fly about and don't have a heart attack when it breakes . I use 1" for main feeders and 3/4" drops. 150 PSI.

Dave w.

Jamcoats I'm surprised you like black iron. I would never use black iron for air as you are asking for rust issues. My first choice would be copper and after that pvc. I like the idea of using 2"for extra storage capacity or "buffer"if you will. I agree with the traps for moisture.

jamcoats

Black iron has been industry standard for many years. Install the water drops at the head, and blow downs and filters at the services, and what little rust may accumulate in the lines won't be any worse than what's inside that big steel compressor. Filters and blow downs need to be used with ANY system. Extend the airline down to the floor where you make your service jack and put a valve on it. Put your filter and jack on a tee at working height.

You can use PVC, yes, and I have done it. But it really ain't right.

Liquids are virtually incompressible. That 175PSI rating for LIQUIDS on PVC don't mean jack if it's operating with a compressed gas, which contains much more energy. Burst a PVC pipe full of water, and some energy is expelled, but burst it full of compressed air and you've got shrapnel!

As to copper, vibration is an issue, so many people recommend that you either braze the joints or use 95/5 solder, which is specifically used by the HVAC industry to combat the vibration problem. Copper pipe comes in at least three common, and increasing thicknesses, M, L and K, and this is available either drawn or annealed. You want drawn. A quick internet search reaveals that for 1" or less diameter, 300psi (at 200 degrees F) can be supported with type K or L drawn and 95/5 soldered joints.

Connect your first line to the compressor via a short hose, in order to isolate as much vibration as possible.

jamcoats

Another bit of info, there is such a thing as ABS plastic tubing that is rated for compressed AIR. But it ain't cheap.

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