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Twin H carburetor restoration
  • Chris SmithChris Smith
    Posts: 139Expert Adviser
    I just completed a rebuild of my Carter carburetors for my 54 Hornet. I hope they work as good as they look. I used carburetor kits from Daytona, substituted the float needle and seats with Craig valves, and painted them with Eastwood carburetor paint and exhaust manifold coating on the cast iron base. It was interesting finding errors that a prior rebuider had done. Luckily I had the hudson shop manuals to refer from. photo carburetors015_zpse20105e3.jpg
  • Oldfarmer1947gmailcomOldfarmer1947gmailcom
    Posts: 125Hitchhiker
    Thanks for sharing. I too hope your efforts are rewarded with successful operation. Great satisfaction comes from doing your own rebuilds.
    Oldfarmer1947@gmail.com
  • Tallent RTallent R
    Posts: 1,576Platinum Member
    My brother in lw does mine for me . Says the Hudson books have info in them thats not in the kit intallation info.
    Roger
    Retired Tech.
  • LanceBLanceB
    Posts: 674Platinum Member
    They look great. Let us know how well they work, I'm sure it will be very good.
  • Ken U-Tx
    Posts: 1,106Platinum Member
    They are fairly easy to do, once you have done a few sets, you can almost do them in your sleep. Just check that they are jetted correctly, have the correct metering rods, and the linkages adjusted correctly. I am working on a pair of SU carburetors at the moment. Very different!
  • mikeybmikeyb
    Posts: 60Senior Contributor
    Do you guys recommend the Craig valve?
  • PAULARGETYPEPAULARGETYPE
    Posts: 1,253Platinum Member
    THEY LOOK GREAT NOW JUST HAVE THEM RUN AS GOOD AS THEY LOOK MAKE SURE YOU TIME THEM WITH A VACUUM GAUGE WHEN YOU PUT THEM ON ADJUST THE LINKAGE SO IT JUST SLIPS RIGHT IN THE HOLE NO PULL ON THE LINKAGE WHEN INSTALLING THE LINKAGE THEN BALLANCE WITH GAUGE GOOD LUCK
  • dougsondougson
    Posts: 599Platinum Member
    Very nice looking, that's how mine looked when they went on. It's too bad it's so hard to keep them that nice looking after you start driving the car.
  • 48Sed
    Posts: 90Hitchhiker
    Are they #2114S carbs?
  • Chris SmithChris Smith
    Posts: 139Expert Adviser
    Thanks for the kind words and advice guys. The tags say 2113s I bought the Craig valves because I had experienced the sticking needle and seat and fuel leak they caused.
  • 48Sed
    Posts: 90Hitchhiker
    What are Craig valves,any pictures?
  • 5433HET5433HET
    Posts: 171Expert Adviser
    The great feature about the Daytona kits is they are ethanol resistant!
  • Ken U-Tx
    Posts: 1,106Platinum Member
    The only part in the older kits that would be vulnerable to the ethanol would be the needle valve with its rubber tip. The new Daytona kits have strange looking needle valves that are no longer needles in the true sense, they have a flat disc of Viton rather than the tapered rubber needle of old style. I found this out fairly recently.
  • brumac
    Posts: 188Expert Adviser
    I am using the old style needle and seat, brass seat and steel needle. A good tap with a light hammer reseats the needle and have had no leakage for the past 3 years. Bruce
  • KdancyKdancy
    Posts: 1,062Platinum Member
    http://daytonaparts.com/float.php
    Here is their info on needle and seat--
    I sent my carb body to daytona parts and they plated it for me. I've found the paint doesn't last very long.
  • GrimGreaserGrimGreaser
    Posts: 541Platinum Member
    Dayton will sell their float valve by it self too, for those interested. $8 bucks I think.
    Six in a row makes it GO!