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1954 MG-TF resurrection.
  • Ken U-Tx
    Posts: 1,106Platinum Member
    Hello All, I am currently helping a friend awaken this 1954 MGTF from a long 25+ year slumber. Fuel system , brake system are undergoing a complete redo, cleaning, etc. I have the SU carbs apart and reconditioning them now. the car has an interesting history. Was exported from UK to Saudi Arabia, many years ago (60's?) then imported to the USA in the 80's. Then the previous owner stored it about 1987 and it has sat since. Car still has Saudi plates, saudi papers, and the bias ply whitewall tires currently mounted on the wire rims have Arabic script! I will post more pictures later. The car may become available for sale after we get it running and drivable, with some cosmetic work done as well.
  • BrowniepetersenBrowniepetersen
    Posts: 2,418Platinum Member
    Be careful, these little british cars can get to be a habit. And two will fit in the space of a stepdown--well almost.
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    Brownie
  • Ken U-Tx
    Posts: 1,106Platinum Member
    Oh, I have no intention of owning one myself! I just work on them for bennies. LOL
  • Ken U-Tx
    Posts: 1,106Platinum Member
    After this comes the Austin-Healy 3000 GT. rear hubs are knackered, need replacing and other things need fixing. The AH 3000 has a Laycock de Normanville overdrive unit. Restoring the SU carbs on the MGTF now. Polished the dashpots from cast finish to shiny finish. I wore down my thumbnail wet sanding the dashpots prior to buffing.
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  • ESSX28-1ESSX28-1
    Posts: 995Platinum Member
    Toying with putting a Laycock o/d into the Essex. To my surprise it looks like my 6v will drive the 12v solenoids.
    Spent a lot of time in the early 60's playing with these MG & Austin Healey's that friends owned. They were driven hard & broke down more often than my old Essex Coupe!!The earlier MG's (MG TC) has a nasty habit of popping spokes if cornered too hard. Sad consequences!! LOL
    Dave Y
    New Zealand
  • Ken U-Tx
    Posts: 1,106Platinum Member
    This MGTF does have the wire spoke wheels that fit on splined hubs. My friend asked me to remove the bearings to clean, repack and reinstall in the hubs. I didn't have a press, but I was able to adapt a large gear puller to push the bearings out and back into the hubs. The bearings are ball bearings, not tapered roller.
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  • DocHornetDocHornet
    Posts: 146Expert Adviser
    Nice work on those carbies. That's the beauty of these British engines... the Brits made them to be beautiful as well as functional. I just acquired a beautiful 1953 Nash Healey LeMans Coupe. It has a Nash Ambassador 6 cyl engine but with Healey aluminum head and dual SU Hs6 carbs. Also has the ubiquitous B-W Overdrive tranny with a twist.. the OD kickdown button is in the middle of the steering wheel (where a horn button would normally go) instead of under the pedal.. a really smart idea. And, of course, the starter button is under the clutch pedal a la Studie's and Nash's of the period.
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  • Ken U-Tx
    Posts: 1,106Platinum Member
    One thing about the dash pots on any SU, or some Zeniths and Strombergs with variable venturi designs is you need to take precautions not to dent or distort those dash pots as they and the pistons are machined as a matched set. That also means you can't typically go around swapping a piston and needle from one dash pot to another. When I buff them, I use light pressure and keep the dash pot moving so as not to heat it up in one spot, as that can warp it. They are aluminum alloy. DO not sand or wire brush the inside of the dash-pot, or the piston, as this will result in loss of the seal needed for the vacuum to operate the piston and needle correctly. I use a non abrasive metal polish like Brasso, Blue Magic, Mother's etc. When handling and storing the piston, take care not to bend the tapered needle.
  • Ken U-Tx
    Posts: 1,106Platinum Member
    Getting the radiator out of the MG T series is a bit of work. Entire grill shell has to come out of car before the radiator can be separated from the grill shell. There are several support rods, and a cross support that have to be unbolted, and the front bumper has to come off too, so the fenders can be pushed outwards at the top so the radiator can be pulled straight up. The radiator is attached to a U shaped sheet metal support bracket with two studs on the bottom that pass through a cross member and rubber isolation donuts. Lots o fiddling bits, as usual for a Brit car of this vintage.
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  • ESSX28-1ESSX28-1
    Posts: 995Platinum Member
    Ken, When did you last pull an Essex radiator out?? Somewhat similar to your description!! LOL
    Dave Y
    New Zealand