ClassicCar

faustmb

I am pleased to announce that I am now taking orders for Hudson Disk brake kits. These are the kits that were designed and formerly provided by Richard Pridemore. This is the third and most recent generation of the design which uses new hubs and a gusseted MC bracket. At the moment I am offering the kit just as Richard had; I will provide the new parts along with instructions and a parts list for the common commercial parts. In the longer term I plan to offer the complete kit including all of the common commercial parts ready to bolt on.

I am also working on a high performance version that will use Wilwood components. I expect to have that together by summer.

Please email me at HETorphanautomill@gmail.com (drop the HET) with any questions or to place an order. I do accept Paypal at the same address.

Thanks,
Matt Faust

*******
1/28/2013 update, kit now includes all hardware. User supplies only calipers, rotors and pads for the wheel kit

Shipping is 7-10 days now that I have all items in stock.

Wheel Kit, basic, 48-54 Hudson Stepdown models
(Note this kit will fit 37-47 Hudson but requires 1 newer Hudson bearing)
-new CNC machined hubs w/ new studs and lug nuts
-new CNC caliper mount brackets
-Wheel spacers (1/4") to use factory wheels, CNC machined, pair ( not required for 16" Hudson wheels or aftermarket wheels)
-new flex hoses with banjo bolts
-mounting hardware, grade 8
-not included (calipers, rotors, and pads) part numbers provided (Advance & NAPA)
-detailed installation instructions and parts list
$480 plus $12 for shipping (-$30 if you don't need wheel spacers)

Master cylinder kit, basic, 48-54 Stepdown, LWB only (SWB bracket in process)
-bolt in bracket for OE location
-mounting hardware, grade 8
-Master cylinder part number, modification instructions, assembly instructions
* must specify Manual or Auto transmission
* email for pricing and options

Tallent R

You list wheel spacers so you can use the factory wheels, what wheel fits if you dont use the spacer?
Roger

faustmb

***Edit ***
16" Hudson factory wheels do not require the additional spacers
***
On the early version of these kits (as well as Labuds), the procedure was to grind away on the cast part of the caliper until you got enough clearance. The guys who used these on "modified" cars did not need to do this since most aftermarket wheels have more clearance inside. Richards intent from day 1 was to use off the shelf parts with no mods, and these spacers helped him get a little closer.

To answer your original question, I believe some of the later Ford and Mopar wheels have a bit more clearance and may not require these spacers either.

Richard also only sold this as a single package, so guys who didn't need MC brackets or wheel spacers got them anyway. To try to keep the cost down, I broke these out as options. They are the least expensive parts of the setup, but if you don't need them...

On a side note, I believe the Wilwood version will work with stock wheels and no additional mods, but I have not confirmed that personally yet.

r2hud308

Matt,I did put 1 of the MC kits on a 52 Super Wasp.It was a couple years ago so I dont remember much other than the brake peddle arm comes out a bit different(passes through the subframe). Had to bust out the porta band and the mig,but it did work.

Hud Twin H Garage

faustmb

Thanks Hud, Richard wasn't sure of the changes needed for SWB. I'll be installing in my 50 Pacemaker soon, that ought to be the same or very similar at which point I can detail it out.

faustmb

Got the first order of new hubs this week. Excellent quality, right down to the reliefs to make bearing removal easy. I'm hoping to get these mounted this week.

Lee ODell

I am glad to see the disc brake kit back in production. I'll share some experiences and thoughts about the stud shoulder I see in the picture. This is not ment to be critical but something to be aware of when installing wheels with stud shoulders protruding past the hubs face.

I noticed in the photo alot of the untreaded part of the stud shoulders are protruding above the hub face. I have come across this many times on customer cars that came into my shop when bad studs had been replace with new studs and the stud shoulder protruded past the hub face. Original factory stud shoulders do not protrude past the hub face. The problem was that the end of the tappered nuts would bottom out and tighten against the tappered stud shoulders giving a false sense that the wheel was tight when in fact the wheel was not tight enough or not at all. Because of multiple tire changes and overtightening lug nuts or bolts the holes become larger so the nut or bolt taper will get closer to the hub face or stud shoulder which may cause the nut to bottom out. If the nut bottoms out on stud shoulder, the torque between wheel/hub will not be sufficiently tight. Without sufficient torque the wheel can move around which leads to larger holes and a junk wheel.

Of course with the use of the wheel spacer this should not be a problem with a good wheel. Could the hub face be made thicker to eliminate the need for spacers?

I hope this will be helpful.
Lee O'Dell

faustmb

Lee,

I knew I was asking for trouble posting the pics of the first parts:). The studs were immediately identified as as issue and replaced with a part with a shorter shoulder. I replaced the first set of studs and test fit everything tonight.

The new stud has plenty of clearance so that rotor sits completely flush on the hub face with additional clearance. The nut does not bottom out even if the wheel isn't installed.

One of the challenges with this project has been sourcing the small hardware items. Things were listed as "1/2-20 stud" and "banjo Bolt". In the case of the stud, there is literally a hundred to choose from with only the thread in common. Secondary criteria for me is that all parts have to span many model years. A one year or one model only part is asking for trouble down the road. I have lots of hours into searching for manufactures and specific part numbers so there is no guesswork involved, and part quality, availability and pricing are good.

I'm an engineer by trade, specifically in custom machine building. I work off of BOMs and don't like guesswork, which is why I have ordered and tested each part that is required for the kit.

I appreciate the feedback.

Thanks,
Matt

faustmb

Here's a pic of the wheel kit (minus the wheel spacers), just supply calipers, rotors and pads from your local auto parts store.

Also, I did test with 16" Hudson wheels. Plenty of caliper clearance without additional spacers.

Matt

Tallent R

Oh I would think so ,should be more clearance than the 15" I would think,
Roger

rambos_ride

Hello, Tried to send you an email - did you receive?

faustmb

No I didn't. I will PM you. MATTorphanautomill@gmail.com drop the MATT

Thanks,
Matt

rambos_ride

Matt - got your email, about the same time I got news Rambo needs surgery.. I will get back to you and make an order..but it may be another month or so now until I'll have the cash.

faustmb

Here is a pic of an OE hub compared to my new ones. Note the beefed up flange to give a bit more strength for the press in studs and the deeper center to keep the rotors hub centric. Plus they're shiny :)

I'm working on my Master Cylinder bracket for the SWB cars. It is quite a bit different than the existing brackets, I'll post more info when I have it put together.

Matt

Kdancy

Nice!!

raidmagicverizonnet

So these won't fit stock 15" wheels how far out do the spacers move the wheels? Will the stock MC work with these or do you need a new one?

faustmb

Stock Hudson wheels w/ stock calipers interfere due to the interior layer of steel where the inner and outer rims are riveted together. Without spacers, the track width matches OE width. The wheels spacers are 0.25" thick, so a total change of 1/2" which I'd say is not noticeable and has plenty of clearance to the fender wells. The convertible stepdowns left the factory with an extra 1/2" per side (wider rims) for a total of 1" additional width, all other things being equal. Someone here can probably clarify the wheel offset on these wider rims?

The master cylinder seems to be an item of debate. Labuds kit used the stock MC, but you have to "relieve " the internal check valve and add external residual valves. I know quite a few people that have the Factory MC with front disks and are happy with this. I had planned to try this to gain first hand experience, but when I pulled my NC it was nasty (full rebuild in 2005) so I scratched that plan. Richard has stated that he is dead against using the stock MC, favoring the dual chamber GM design. Brackets for the LWB cars are designed fir this and are bolt in. Either solution is workable, but both require residual valves.

I am installing a Wilwood single outlet with remote reservoir in my car now. The pros; all new parts, easy bolt in, small remote reservoir under the hood, still retains the full factory mechanical backup. I'm working through this in my spare time, but hope to have it worked out within the next few weeks. I'll post an update once its together.

Thanks,
Matt

Holbertsgmailcom

I tried to email you about a Hudson jet kit but didn't get through, do you make a kit for jets? Let my know thank

faustmb

I think that the Jet spindles are completely different, so this kit will not fit.

Thanks,
Matt

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