ClassicCar

Thanks Rick
I can post pics if anyone needs them. It is the T86E overdrive transmission.

Still looking for the single lever tranny. Anyone have a chance to look through their stash. Thanks

Thanks for all the comments. I will continue to research this. Pics would be nice, if anyone has them. Thanks

This is a my first attempt at setting up the floor shifter. Hope someone can provide guidance. It works on the stand. It is too far back. Tested it today and the engine with tranny attached hit the floor. I am not ready to cut the floor as this is only my 1st try. I did not removed the original shift levers because I do not know how. The literature seems confusing. Do I need to remove the top panel and remove a pin to release the lever, or remove the bolt and pry the lever off, without removing the top cover? I did not want to break anything yet.

To answer the question about floor shifters, I offer the following information saved from 2007 discussion between Don Pratt and Mark Hudson.

HUDSON FLOOR SHIFTER FOR a STEPDOWN USING a T86 double lever and OD
Need help with floor shifter
Don Pratt December 2007
Hello all,

I need help finding the proper floor shifter for my three speed Trans w/OD. I have a 51 pacemaker, but my trans is a later model two lever type. I have a floor shift installed now, but I had to modify it to get it to go into all gears. It shifts fine now, but won’t go into reverse with the OD engaged. I know that I could go back to the column shift, as I still have the original Trans as well, but I want the top loader type floor shift.

Thanks,
Don

I had a single lever (It had one lever and one cable to control the shifts) Trans installed before, it shifted into reverse with the overdrive engaged. I think this was the only way to park the car in gear and have the Trans hold it in position. I learned this the hard way (my e brake didn't work as well as I thought.eek: Anyway, I think the reverse gear is not moving into position completely. The shifter that I have was not an exact fit. I had to move and re drill one of the forks to get the right spacing, but maybe the throw still isn't exactly right. I'll try to mess with it some more, but I know of this being done as a direct bolt in, just remove the top cover, install the stick shift. (I have already removed the original forks from the side of the trans.

I'm not sure what the floor shifter I am using. It was one that we got with a bunch of Hudson transmissions and other parts. It was not installed in any of them, but looked very similar to one that was installed in another transmission that was in the lot of parts. Of course that Trans with the stick installed was sold, and we were left with only the parts. The Trans that is installed in my car now is the later two lever type. The one I removed was the single lever/cable type. I was also of the impression that the single lever type would not work with the floor shift.

Hey Don, hope all is well in the south. The double lever Trans can be fitted with a floor shifter. I think, not for sure nut you can use one from a slant six, 3spd.trans.I really think that you can probably use any 3 spd. Shifter from the 60's? Thinking about it, you could probably get onto the Studebaker board and get one from someone there. Studebaker used the T-86E Trans also and they had floor shifters on them. Just a thought and possible lead.

Thanks everyone for all your help, I will look into the Studebaker lead for the correct part. In the mean time my installed shifter is working with the exception of the reverse problem when the overdrive is engaged. Not really such a big deal. (As if my poor car didn't still need just about everything else.) At least it runs and drives. My dad has been helping me out with most of the work on getting the car back on the road safely. (READ HE HAS BEEN DOING ALL OF THE WORK WHILE ASK THE DUMB QUESTIONS: eek :) Hopefully some of you will come out and see the progress at his meet in sunny south Florida in February. I will post an invitation to all when I figure out the best way to do it. We have HET members and Hudson fans from all over come out every year. There are hotels nearby and RV parking on site, as it is usually a two day affair. Sorry I got a little off subject, and thanks again for everyone's help.

From Mark Hudson

The correct floor shifter is from a Jeep transmission. You can buy them new for $100. The transmission type is the T-90 and T-86 Borg Warner.

Studebaker pickups used the same T-86.

There is a problem with the OD and using the floor shifter from a Jeep or any other transmission. You absolutely do not want to take a chance on having your transmission in reverse with the OD engaged. Even if you kick out the solenoid, there is a chance the OD will be in. If you by chance do try to back up in reverse with the OD engaged, you'll crush your overriding clutch in the OD unit and lock the transmission permanently.

Two ways you can fix this.

1) Always pull out the OD cable and lock the transmission into direct drive before you put it in reverse. These moves the OD lock out rod into direct. This doesn't require any modifications to the shifting mechanism, but does require a good memory - don't forget to pull out the OD cable.

2) Modify the 1st/Reverse shifter fork to operate the internal OD lockout rail.

When you take off the top plate, work your 1st/Reverse shift lever. You'll notice that the shifter paddle also moves a rod back and forth to lock the OD unit into Direct as you shift into reverse. This is the same rod you pull in and out by cable, but automatically does so by the reverse shifter fork inside the transmission. This rod shifting makes in impossible to be in OD and reverse at the same time. It’s also what makes your car stay parked when in OD and left in reverse. If your OD cable is in and you park your car in a forward gear, she'll roll away like it’s in no gear at all.

The best way to accommodate the automatic OD lockout is to leave the 1st/reverse side shifter mechanism in the transmission minus the detent balls. Mill the paddle forks of the 1st/reverse side shifter half its thickness. Mill the top shifter fork for 1st/Reverse half the thickness on the opposite side. It doesn't really matter which fork you make the front or back, just be sure and mill the two complementary to each other. They should be milled such that you can ease the top shifter down and the milled fork slide into the collar of the 1st/reverse gear along with the milled side shifter paddle.

The milling process will take some pre-measurement and planning. Be sure you are keeping the overall fork thickness the same and parallel across the top shifter fork arms. You may have to mill more or less than half to keep things in alignment - measure twice and cut once! I like this arrangement because your side shifter arm can be used for a back-up light switch.

Mark

Mark thanks for the plan on milling down shift fork and leaving the side fork in, I may try that to solve the OD lock out problem. It's great to have all this expertise and know how available to relative novices like myself. You are all a big help to the rest of us.

Don

Thanks everyone. Good input so far. Interesting thoughts from Roger about the 308 and Hydromatic setup. I have that setup complete with the steering column. I was told that setup was like re inventing the wheel, so abandoned it early on. I guess I should hang on to it in case I become more knowledgeable in the future or find someone who can assist with doing that. It is easy now for me to see why Hudson people tend to have so many parts. Options are plentiful. Thanks Jon for the encouragement.

This is what I decided to go with. It is a jeep shifter, that I picked up on ebay for $35. Thanks everyone for the support.

wanderer23464yahoocom, Thanks for sharing your accomplishments. There are always alternatives to the norm and you have shown us all how to get the task done. Happy New Year