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In this Discussion
- GrimGreaser November 2012
- Ken U-Tx November 2012
- RonS November 2012
- Tallent R November 2012
- walts garage-53 November 2012
- wanderer23464yahoocom November 2012
carburetor question
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What is the effect on driveability if the anti perculator rocker arm is not in contact from the metering rod arm( to wide of a gap) on the WA-1s. Will this cause hard starting on a hot engine that is attempted to be restarted after standing for a 1/2 hour or so, and requiring the need to hold the gas pedal down to the floor to fire? Or is this characteristic caused by something else?
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If the anti-percolator valve remains shut when engine is shut down hot, then the vapor pressure in the bowl will force fuel through the jets into the manifold, flooding it. Then it becomes necessary to hold the pedal down while cranking in hopes of getting it started again. The stamped sheet metal tab on the anti-percolator valve can be easily bent up to make contact with the rocker arm so that the rocker arm just cracks the anti-percolator valve open when throttle is closed. With the anti-percolator valve open, the fuel vaporizing in the float bowl from residual engine heat on hot shut-down will now vent out the anti-percolator valve and not be forced down the jets past the metering rod (which will be raised off it's seat by the spring under the vacuum piston since there is no engine vacuum with engine off).
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It has to be set with the Carter tool. If not you can have problems both ways. Walt.
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Thanks, I suspected that. But, like Walt says I believe that I must remove the carbs to accurately set the throttle plate at "open .030" with a wire tool, and use a gauge for the "saxaphone valve" at about .005-.015. Would I be correct in saying that?
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The anti-perculator valves have to be set with carb at idle position, and the 2 valves have to be set at the ring around the upper tower. All work should be done on the bench, as to set everything, throttle screw must be backed out all the way. Walt.
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Thanks again. I just checked the rear carb didn't open at all and the front very little. Oh well, a small project in the works.
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More questions about carbs. I have a Twin H carb setup for a 308 engine. I do not have any history on the carbs. They were completely frozen when I got them. At soaking in carbs cleaner for a couple of weeks, they are completely freed up , everything moves now. They were attached to the engine, which I could turn with a wrench on the pulley nut. No frozen pistons or valves. Anyway, my thoughts are to rebuild the carbs as part of the process. I purchased rebuild kits from Dale Cooper. I purchased a rebuild manual from the Carburetor doctor. Someone said I need the Carburetor rebuild tool kit, which I have not found yet. My questions are is it essential to have this tool kit, and is rebuilding these carbs a DIY kind of thing? Not knowing my skill level may make answering this question difficult, but are there any 1st timers out there who have completed this task with any success. I did read that people send them to Walt for rebuilding, but thought I would like to do as much as possible myself on this project. Thanks Herman
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The only tool you must have is the little gauge to set the metering rod in the main jet. I made my own from a picture a kind soul posted here. Otherwise, measure carefully. Drill bits make good gauges, an adjusting tool for the anti-percolator valve can be made by notching a small piece of flat stock. A Unisync is handy for balancing your carbs. Toothpicks and small wires are good for cleaning passages.
Patience is key, and don't lose the little check balls!
Hudson Service manuals, ect. are available here: http://hetclub.org/burr/lithomepage.htmSix in a row makes it GO! -
Yes on the Hudson manuals too . I am no carb expert - I have my brother in law do them for me . He is a small engine guy an absolute wiz with carbs. He tells me the Hudson books are very helpfull having info the kit instuctions dont,
RogerRetired Tech.
