ClassicCar

dumbchemist

I am trying to loosen the rear drums on a 1936H8. The car has set outdoors for 25+ years and the rear drums have rusted to the brake shoes. As a result, neither of the drums will turn even a tiny bit. I have tried penetrating oil and heating with a propane torch to no avail. Once, I tried to turn one of the drums by screwing in the wheel bolts and using a steel bar to turn to drum. All I did was bend one of the wheel bolts. Does anyone have any ideas?

rambos_ride

I had to get a huge-monstrous rear brake drum off my old 66 C50 dumptruck.

Heat, and more heat finally expanded the drum enough to use a 5lb sledgehammer to knock off...the problem I had was getting the drum passed the groove worn into the drum.

I actually used a propane tank with a weed-burner attachment as it was the only way I could get the drum to heat up long enough using a hand-held propane or oxy/acy setup took too long.

Tallent R

I generaly use my drum puller ,granted it will destroy the hold down pins on the shoes. But it pulls the whole works off .Drum , shoes ,adjusters and springs. Its a last resort and I salvage a lot of stuff that would otherwise be trashed that way,
Roger

dumbchemist

Thanks for the 2 suggestions. I have or had(?) a drum puller and considered using it. The problem is that I do not know where the puller is as I have not used it in over 20 years and cannot find it. I have checked every toolbox and storage box I can find and have had no luck. I will continue to look for it anyway.

Oldfarmer1947gmailcom

Check local equipment and tool rental agents. Before I found my Bluepoint puller I rented from local shop.
Note the picture of same puller below

Geoff C., N.Z.

Lots of heat and a heavy hammer. Bang around the drum with the hammer when it is hot, it will eventually knock all the rust out and you should be able to get it off with a decent puller.

hoggyrubber

i don't know if is smart or will work for you, but i made a tool to free up 3/4 or 1 ton chevys. i used a 8" wide 6' long stick of 3/4" thick flat stock. i cut out around the floating axle center and drilled 3 holes for the position of 3 of the wheel studs. i then bolt it down and after soaking in penetrating oil i give it a light jerk on a chain with another truck. has worked 3 times for me.
i have tried a rosebud tip before and puller. it seems to be a lot easier if it will at least turn before you start trying to get it off. good luck.

PAULARGETYPE

THIS IS THE PULLER AND THE INFO YOU NEED TO USE IT I WOULD GRIND OFF THE HOLD DOWN SPRING PINS . DO NOT PUT A JAW PULLER ON THE OUT SIDE OF THE DRUM YOU WILL RUIN THE DRUM
http://hudsonpix.multiply.com/photos/album/52/REAR_WHEEL_PULLER

AND AS FOR THE CHAIN AND PICK UP IDEA <b>DO NOT DO IT THESE ARE NOT GM STYLE DRUMS</b> THEY ARE TAPER SHAFT AXELS AND DRUMS

hoggyrubber

sounds like paullargetype knows what he is talking about. i would hate to brake the key or mess up the hub keyway. better get the right tool!

Tallent R

The puller I sugested was the correct puller . I may not have been clear enough . The type that has 3 arms and mounts to lug bolt holes. Then push's on axle shaft, make sure to leave nut on to prevent damage to shaft,
Roger

barrysweet52

Re shoes rusted to inside of drum, loosen the large nut on the back of the backing plate. This could also help getting the shoe past the wear groove on the inside of the drum.
Re getting the brake drum off, use the puller and ideas suggested. Barry

Uncle Josh

The large nut on the upper back of the backing plate, that Barry refers to, holds the anchor pin, which will prevent the shoes from coming off.

keep whackin the dog bone wrench on the 3-jaw puller. Use the heat wrench on the hub if you have to. Once the drum is off, you can release the adjuster with a vice grip, and pry the old shoes out. As mentioned, the hold-down pins will break, but they're cheap. Make sure you leave the axle nut on a few threads. I ya don't, when she breaks loose, the drum will go across the shop, ...if it makes it past you!

cargray

Have you tried washing the dirt and crud out? I used a high pressure washer around the back out side edge, where the shoe is against the drum. and up through the adj. hole..couldnt believe the dirt and rust that washed out. and finally the drum freed up..some wacks around with a lead hammer helped also.

Tallent R

That could'nt hurt ,water may act as a lube/penatrant also,
Roger

drivergo2

WILL YOU ALLWAYS BREAK THE HOLD DOWN PINS WHEN YOU USE A PULLER OR WILL THE HUB COME OFF LEAVING THE BRAKE DRUM IN PIECE. THANKS JOHN

Tallent R

Oh no ,generaly the shoes let go , I seldon wreck the works doing this. But with me its generaly an old rusty car Im scaping for any good parts. So I dont want to ruin anything I dont need to.
Roger

46HudsonPU

I just removed the drums from the rear axle of one of my '46 Hudsons (my 'tan' truck). It all worked fine with the tool that Paul (PAULARGETYPE) recommends (don't think it would come off any other way - unless there was EXTREME damage done to the drum).

One bit of advise - if the 'screw' (the one the 'dog bone' turns, and applies the pressure) is larger than the castle nut, don't leave the nut on the axle - find some other means/method to hold the drum back once it 'pops' loose (and it will, sometimes with explosive force). I had it half way screwed onto the axle threads, and the 'screw' still mangled the threads on the nut on the first (left) side.
I took the nut off of the right side, but used a couple of C-clamps (loose, just sitting there, wired-up so they wouldn't fall) - worked fine.

In my case, I will not be re-using the rear axle, drums, etc.. I was merely removing it, to use as a guide (example) for placement of the spring perches on a more modern axle which will take its place. I didn't want drag the axle around with the emergency brake cables dragging all over the place, and I don't like 'cutting' things off for expediency's sake - thus removal of the drums, to do it the 'right way'. :-B
Much of what is there is in decent shape (axles, bearings, drums, etc, emergency brake cables were good, however the metal conduit was rusted thru..), so if someone needs something, let me know - maybe we can come to an arrangement or two... ;)

dumbchemist

Just to close out this thread:
I had a guy with a cutting torch remove the outer part of the rear drums yesterday. Just enough of the drum was left for bolting on the wheels. I know this was drastic but it seemed to be the only way to get the job done before snow starts falling and the hauler shows up. The new owner of the car has new or used drums to replace the ones that got torched and he was okay with this surgery.

onerare39

Yep, if all else fails get out the Blue Wrench.

46HudsonPU

Yup, that'll do it... ;)

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