ClassicCar

Comm6

Hi everyone I am in need of some very much needed help I am trying to restore a 1949 Hudson Commodore 6. The car itself is in great condition a california car lived in barstow cal. Most of its life. Matching numbers block to vin. My issue is I cannot for the life of me find weatherstripping for this car. It is in the shop being sanded down to be painted and redoing the interior carpet seats door panels headliner and trunk. Can someone tell me what size and or type is good aftermarket wise from steelrubber or soffseal any help would be very very greatley appreciated.

super-six

I used Pn. 5036 ST from Old Dog Street Rods which worked very well for the doors but I don't see it listed on their website. Give them a call at 866-291-1940 and see if it's still available. I used trunk weatherstripping from KGAP.

hotrodman2010hotmailcom

If you have not done so yet ,you need to join the HET national club and the local club in your area........I too am restoring a Hudson and with out the imformation of other Hudsonite's your indevers will be much harder.. Most of all of the venders are listed in each monthly publication...

VicTor Z

http://socalhet.org/ Check out this web site!

Comm6

Thanks so much for all the input will check those places out . Will post pics as soon as I find out how.

Jon B

Here's my on-line list of repro parts made especially for Hudsons. http://www.detailedconcepts.net/Repro_Table.pdf In the first few pages you'll find a list (with web links) of companies or individuals who maintain businesses that offer a large line of Hudson parts; you can contact them for catalogs. The rest of my list covers repro parts made by individuals who just make one or a handful of Hudson parts (so therefore don't print catalogs or have webpages).

K-Gap makes a lot of rubber and plastic parts especially for Hudsons. They have gotten behind in shipping items, lately, due to an illness in the family, but they're in the L.A. area so you could conceivably drive in to pick it up (assuming they have it in stock).

Comm6

One more question. I found weatherstripping for doors and trunk to a 49 desoto, chrysler, plymouth will that be somewhat compatible you think? Thanks again.

bartibog1

not sure of desoto. this is what i used. works really well. enter product number 93085k89 and find button. it has pricing listed and a way to order on site.
http://www.mcmaster.com/#rubber-bulb-seals/=jfq2qs

Tallent R

You will find some of the Hudson door and trunk seals are common types and even JC Whitny has it in thier catalog by shape if you have a sample to go by. The Window channels not a problem a club member (see his ad in WTN) makes them.
The real big problem is windshied seals front and rear, The Full Line stuff is comming back soon as Dr. Doug gets it situated so that should help,
Roger

Comm6

Thank u very much bartibog1 that looks like it will work both on the trunk and doors... Thanks again!!

Comm6

I know rockauto has the vent window weatherstripping my rear wimdow is good the front windows I need. Thanks for all responses I never thought parts would be this hard to find this is my first restoration and im very glad I have all the chrome pieces that you cannot find anywhere.

RL Chilton

New rubber is a little tough right now for Hudsons, as it takes a little homework, and several suppliers. Hopefully, in the near future, this restoration aspect will become easier.

As far as chrome or stainless (anything else for your Hudson) goes, you CAN find any part you need. It just depends on how much you want to network, and how patient you are. I've spent up to 6 years looking for the correct parts for my car. They're out there, you just have to know where to look.

bartibog1

make sure you use a good cleaner before you try to install the weatherstrip
steve

Comm6

This is my hudson... Thanks for the input steve ordered the weatherstripping today... Now my battery is dead due to the shop painting the vehicle and leaving somthing on. I have the original 6v system how do you jump or charge the batt??

Comm6

2

Comm6

Int.

Comm6

Will keep u all posted when vehicle is painted and restored. I'm sure I will have a dozen or more questions as I go along thanks.

Jon B

If you have the better part of a day, you can hook a small trickle charger to your battery to recharge it. If you don't own one, it would be a good investment. Here's one at Walmart for about $20: http://www.walmart.com/ip/Schumacher-SpeedCharge-Battery-Maintainer-and-Charger/13005742

Be sure to buy the "automatic" type, also called a battery maintainer, which shuts off when the battery's charged and doesn't overcharge it. Some of these are "manual" -- you must disconnect them when the battery is charged, so you can't just leave them and forget them.

BE SURE to buy one that gives you 6 or 12 volts.

I would advise you to disconnect one of the car's cables from the battery while doing this. There is a chance that there is a short circuit in your car, and that (not the shop) is why your battery's dead. So you don't want to go through all the work of charging the battery only to have it go dead again!

If you don't have the time, take the battery out of the car and over to a service station and ask them to charge the battery. But you'd be better off buying a charger yourself....you'll use it many times over the years!

DocHubler

How does your wiring look? Was it replaced? if not, check it carefully for places where it might be shorting and draining the battery. If you not running it for the winter, at least undo the ground strap from the battery.

I love the dashes on the 48-49s. They are just beautiful!

Tallent R

You should be able to get regular 6-12 volt battery chargers at Harbor Freight,
Roger

Comm6

The wiring all looks good just tried starting it and it would crank and would not start till it ran out of juice to turn over.

Comm6

I might not of had it on the correct position when I was trying to start it the person I purchased it from had mentioned it had to be in gear to start and not to take the key out of the ignition and leave it on the ON position or it will drain the battery. Does this sound about right??

Comm6

Thanks for the info on the charger Jon B. and Roger.

Tallent R

Well leaving it in the ON position dont sound right. Makes no sense that it had to be in gear to start either unless its an automatic and the nutral switch is out of adjustment. If its a stick shift maybe the clutch tends to stick and this would break it loose . Otherwise you would start car and not beable to put it in gear. I put up with a 48 Commodore like that for about 10,000 miles before replacing the clutch. If you do have issues with battery drain get a switch for the battery cable till you figure it out. Just turn it off and disconnect from car when you park it , That way nothing will drain the juce when it sits,
Roger

Comm6

I think you are right there is a issue with the clutch it was not that the battery was dead it was all the times I tried to crank it witch was about 10 times more or less till it just had no juice unless the battery was weak already... Either way im going to have the battery checked if its good I will recharge it and if it is bad will replace it. Same with the clutch I have not driven the car much except from the tow truck up and then back down to park it so I will check and change all my fluids and so on see if that helps any.

Comm6

By the way what type of engine, transmission, and clutch oil is best for these cars??? I was told 20w50 motor oil the rest have no clue I have a 3 speed on the tree manual trans.

54SuperWasp

Wow! Your car looks good already as is! Even the engine bay is quite nice. You made a very good buy I would say. And thanks for the pics, we love pics! Michel

Comm6

Thanks michel.

Tallent R

20 /50 oil would be OK ,I see you have a filter so you can use modern oils,
Roger

Comm6

What about the transmission fluid or clutch fluid what type would work???

Jon B

The clutch takes "Hudsonite" fluid. There are a couple of different types out there, the old original and the modern improved. The old original is brewed up by a friend of mine but he hasn't made any for awhile so you should probably get the new improved from Doug Wildrick. Doug sells clutch parts too. His website is at http://www.wildrickrestoration.com/home.php . Six ounces will do the job, and he sells it in six ounce bottles.

The Hudson club sells it too, but only if you're a member: http://clubstore.biz/

I understand you can use some type of automatic transmission fluid as a substitute, possibly someone will jump in here with that specification.

The transmission would (I think) take the same as the rear end, which is to say gear oil. I use type GL-4, 140 wt. in my Terraplane transmission, but used to use whatever was on the shelf at my local auto supply. Someone may have a recommendation for your "more modern" Hudson.

DocHubler

Hey, it looks to me like the horn wires (not stock) are taped together, and they don't go to the horn relay. Also, the voltage regulator is on the firewall which is not the stock position (pretty sure about that). Of course, maybe I'm just seeing things. That wiring is not stock though, and there's a good chance that careful sorting will find your short. Just my opinion. Pretty sure that 48-53 Hudsons had VR on the inner fender, driver's side, near the battery.

DocHubler

If you don't have those wires going through the horn relay, you'll be draining that battery more than likely. Can't tell for sure from the picture though. This car doesn't have overdrive? Didn't see the relay for that.

Comm6

Yes you are correct no overdrive the horn is not connected and yes I dont beleive the wiring is all original it looks too good to be that old it also has a turn signal.

Comm6

When I touch the wires that are not connected the horn sounds so the person prior did not mention anything about this to me so in deed something is either missing or not working correctley... Good observation on your part!!

DocHubler

Yes, the way those wires are loose there you probably are getting a short somewhere because the wiring wasn't put together properly. Those horns need to be connected through the relay. You don't have the correct connectors to fit to the horn relay which is the little 3 pronged box mounted to the firewall just above the horn on driver's side. Really, the way you'll get to the bottom of your problems is to trace out the wiring and make sure it's in good shape and properly connected. Use the wiring diagram from the service manual. A little daunting and first, but really not that bad once you get started. Members can help you with this if you need them to. Don't start ripping into the dash, but check out the wiring under the hood first as you know there are problems there. Go deeper if some of those fixes don't take care of the problem. I would be suspicious though where I see newer wires. Also, that VR that is mounted to the firewall should be mounted on the inner fender closer to the battery, I think. Make sure nothing is shorting there.

DocHubler

Be careful too. Use a battery charger to test the circuits, otherwise you could short something out or possible start a fire or even get a severe shock. I replaced the wiring harness on my car. Someone else removed all the wiring and it seemed a little daunting to get it all back together correctly, especially with some of the optional equipment, but everything seems to work fine. I had a new harness from YnZs. You don't need that unless you're planning to do some restoration in the future. Seeing what I see, I would focus on the VR and the horn relay and associated wiring. Also check out the headlight and turn signal/parking light wiring. These go through connectors mounted on each side of the radiator and if they get ragged, they could be shorting out.

Comm6

Thanks will do its at the shop getting painted as we speak... Check these out I used Zar wood stain works on metal too

Comm6

Did all of them today myself.

Comm6

This too sanded it down to take all cracks started with 120 than 320 than 800 sandpaper then sprayed clear took almost all cracks out ecxept one or two very deep ones

DocHubler

Here's some pictures of leathergraining that I did for my 48 Cadillac. This is the same pattern for 51 Hornets, and I think Commodores.

Comm6

That is leather right? That looks awsome!!!!!! How do you acheive that look?

VicTor Z

Hi Comm6, did you get the window channeling, Division Bars and Beltlines with the weather stripping kit? If Not I have them, email me for more info. thez@verizon.net

DocHubler

Actually, I used the Grain-It technologies method. Works great. Used it to do the fabric dash on the 1950 Pacemaker also.

Comm6

Hi anyone have any hub caps they want to sell mine are mix matched I have two of these pictured in very good condition they are foe a 15 inch wheel and measures 14" in diameter.

Comm6

How do you decode the vin or get more info on the car? 1949 Hudson Commodore 6 vin# 49218950

Tallent R

492 -means its aCommodore 6 ,1949 year. The rest is the car number starting with car #482101,
Roger

Comm6

Thanks Roger... All I know about my car is it was in victorville Ca. barstow Ca. and I picked the car up in sandyvalley. It was owned by an older genteleman who worked in George AFB for the Department of Defense that had past away and had left it in his will to one of his nephew's whom I purchased it from.

Comm6

I only wish I knew more about it. Or some way to find out.

Comm6

Where can I find weatherstripping for the front and rear vents?

Tallent R

That is hard to find , you might ask the Clutch Guy if he has it (Wildrick Restorations)
R

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