ClassicCar

zombiescustoms

After getting my '53 Hornet back up and running, I have been scavenging through all my fathers old Hudson stuff (a lot of stuff!) and I came across a n orginal 308 aluminum head, looks pretty clean, I know I would need 1/2" head studs, but I wonder if it would be worth it to put on???

Can the block be tapped for 1/2" studs while it is in the car or does it have to be disassembled? I also found what looks like a 262 iron head in his stuff.

Sunset Classics

You'll get two different opinions on the utility of the factory aluminum heads. Some guys here will never bolt one on an engine again because of past disasters, others like me have used them successfully with modern (read "Best" brand) head gaskets. The biggest factor to help you decide may be a quick measurement of how thick the head is (all around) at the bolt bosses. It came from the Hudson factory 2.00" thick. Max recommended machining is .060", so any head (iron or aluminum) that measures 1.94" or less is good for garage wall art. The heads that read "308" up front are usually '53-56 castings. Earler 308 heads said "H145". 262 heads made from '51 on up can be bolted onto a 308 for a compression bump. The cast iron ones usually have a date code cast onto 'em.

zombiescustoms

Are the 1/2" studs an absolute must have? and what gaskets do you use?

Sunset Classics

zombiescustoms wrote:

Are the 1/2" studs an absolute must have? and what gaskets do you use?

The factory went to 1/2" bolts in '55, after using 1/2" studs for a couple years in 7x engines. 51-54 308s can still use 7/16" bolts if you're not going to pound on it. The bolts thread into the block water jacket, so theoretically you could tap it in the car. I wouldn't do that for two reasons; it's tough to keep your tap straight, and you end up with metal shavings in your water jacket. Best to do this on a (BIG!) drill press while doing other machine work to the bare block during a rebuild. Guys here might be getting tired of my preaching the benefits of the "Best" brand head gasket, but it's the only way I've been able to cure head gasket dribbles when using an aluminum or 262 head on a 308.

zombiescustoms

Hudson308 wrote:

zombiescustoms wrote:

Are the 1/2" studs an absolute must have? and what gaskets do you use?

The factory went to 1/2" bolts in '55, after using 1/2" studs for a couple years in 7x engines. 51-54 308s can still use 7/16" bolts if you're not going to pound on it. The bolts thread into the block water jacket, so theoretically you could tap it in the car. I wouldn't do that for two reasons; it's tough to keep your tap straight, and you end up with metal shavings in your water jacket. Best to do this on a (BIG!) drill press while doing other machine work to the bare block during a rebuild. Guys here might be getting tired of my preaching the benefits of the "Best" brand head gasket, but it's the only way I've been able to cure head gasket dribbles when using an aluminum or 262 head on a 308.

What about using ARP bolts or studs??

zombiescustoms

And where does one buy Best gaskets?

Hudson308

Don't know if ARP has the sizes we need... maybe someone else here can help. Grade 8 7/16" bolts can be procured at your local ACE hardware store, but pay attention to the hex head size. Some of the hardware store stuff has smaller heads, which you don't want to use. There are a couple guys here that can sell you 7/16" or 1/2" bolts with the right size head. Two sources for the Best brand gasket are Randy Maas and Dale Cooper. I think contact info for both are listed in the classified section of the WTN, but I don't have a copy handy at the moment.

Tallent R

One good thing about the alluminum head is the extra cooling effect. Regardless of other issues ,
Roger;)

Kdancy

This company out of Jacksonville Fl sells "Best" gaskets and is has auctions on E-bay. I have been to their warehouse and bought full gasket sets.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Hudson-1955-1956-308-Hornet-Big-6-head-gasket-Best-/200293503663?pt=Vintage_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2ea26c52af

Sunset Classics

Yes, BEST head gaskets are available on ebay, about $80 plus ship (not cheap). What do you have for an engine? If it is a '53 then it takes the 7/16 bolt, which your head should fit (assuming it's a pre-55). Regarding 1/2" ARP GM big block studs, there is one length (about 3.5") that approximates the length of the Hudson stud, however, these do not seat all the way on the block, that is there is thread exposed when screwed in to the right height and water will seep by regardless of sealant. I tried these and I got water everywhere. Also, you will need to torque the head down 10-15 more lbs than recommended by factory, a shakey issue with 7/16" bolts. Regarding Hudson 1/2" studs, there were apparently two lengths (I've used both).

zombiescustoms

It is a '53 that is .100 over. Does anyone have the exact length and pitch of what the 7/16s bolts should be? Also the length of the threaded portion. I'm thinking of checking with ARP to see if they have a stud that could be used, studs are much stronger as they only stretch on the vertical axis.

kamzack

From an amauter's view point,I ordered a set of 7/16 grade 8 studs, nuts and flat washers for a 262 I rebuilt . I put a bit of dry film on the washers in the torque process. My theory was less bolt stem stress and a more accurate torque in tightening. All the years I owned the car, it never had seepage between head and block. I saw the car a coupla years ago and still no seepage after 10 years. Would seem that studs would do better for the aluminum head as well. I've wondered why 254s' had studs and late 6s' had bolts.
Just thought I'd put my 2 cents in,
Kim

Richard E.

Are Best gaskets available for the "narrow block" Aluminum head? I finally found a NOS aluminum head for my '50C6 and I plan to put it on as soon as I polish it. My car came equiped with an aluminum head, but it was junk by the time I got the car.

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