ClassicCar

I've made one, been working on improvements this week too, give me a little bit and I'll put some stuff together. In the meantime... try this thread:

http://www.classiccar.com/forum/discussion/153844/stepdown-starter-woes/p1

I have a much better drawing, but computer issues are preventing me from getting it. I'll be out of town next week, so you'll have to forgive me.

Nine tooth pinions are readily available ( http://m.summitracing.com/parts/pwm-611 ). Mine was 10, meshed fine but complicated fabrication since my engine is still in the car.

I have drawings, but the computer files are screwed up at the moment. The easier way, if you have a 9 tooth pinion, is to remove enough material from the starter to allow the proper mesh depth. I cut enough off to get 1/8 inch between the mount surface and motor/gearbox (you can see the cutout in my pictures). But, i started with a 1/4 inch aluminum plate which isn't stiff enough without welding everything together or further gusseting. I have since made a backing plate out of some 3/8 aluminum.

So... if you have a 9 tooth pinion, the best way to go is to make a template of the pinion and mounting bolt layout. Mounting bolts are 4 1/2 inches apart on centers, pinion right in the middle between them. Be as precise and accurate as possible, drill the mounting holes at 7/16 and the pinion hole just over 1/2. Make your new plate, at least 1/2 inch if your using aluminum without welding, and use your template to layout the mounting holes in relation to the pinion shaft, with the pinion gear removed. Have the plate mounted to the starter when doing this and be very carefull to keep everything straight and square. One hole will need to be near the starter motor/gearbox so that it (starter motor/gearbox) is at about 1:30-2:00 when looking towards the front, otherwise the pitman arm is in the way.

Gladly Jan, check your email.

Update:

For those interested I have a near-final version of my adapter plate drawn up. I still have details to hash out, but it's pretty close. If I didn't need it everyday, it would be done by now. :) Send a private message and I can provide more detail.

Just to reiterate: this replaces a hydramatic starter.

Hudson starters are 9 tooth and 10 pitch. You must use that same drive on a high torque starter. !0 tooth will in time ruin the flywheel. I'm setting up a Hornet block, with a crankshaft, rear motor plate and an auto-matic flywheel. I'm going to see if I can come up with a complete set up a little cheaper than what I had to do to install mine. I used a Ford small block and it took a lot of machining. Do not try to use a front drive starter on a standard trans as it will knock the ring gear off the flywheel. Auto-matics are cut in the flywheel, standards are pressed on from the rear side and that is why the bendix goes into the ring gear from the rear. Walt

Wonder if the ring gear can be "staked" to the flywheel by welding in a few spots and then rebalanced?

Well,my adapter flywheel(55/56 'short crank' 308 to the stepdown trans) has no shoulder to
hold the starter ring gear. It is seemingly shrunk on,then tack welded on the engine side.
Balancer,crankshaft,flywheel,and pressure plate were all balanced together on the current build,
but I never had any vibration before either. I've never had a starter issue although the 12 volt hits
it fairly hard.

Any machine shop that balances crankshafts and such should be able to re-balance a flywheel.

Jason, I was a little distracted last weekend but I have sent it to you. Check your email(s).