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In this Discussion
- 51hornetA May 2012
- alijutt8gmailcom May 2012
- brumac May 2012
- Fred May 2012
- lostmind May 2012
- onerare39 May 2012
- Pacemaker500 May 2012
- Park_W May 2012
- Tallent R May 2012
- Uncle Josh May 2012
Head Reinstall
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Finally got a break in the schedule and getting the head reinstalled. I found that the bolts between #3 & #4 would not stay torqued. The new bolts are slightly oversized based on the digital caliper.
I seem to recall being told I can put a little oil in the cylinders since they have been open to the air for a little while.
What oil should I use? -
I have seen the heli-Coil kits. What about Lock-Tite?
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First round of Head Bolt torque done. 50lbs using a 1/2" drive Craftsman "Click" torque wrench. Wait 24 hours and then move to the final 75lb.
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Yipe! Specs in the manual are 60-65 unless you want to put more heli-coils in.
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WOW!!!! You are correct, Uncle Josh. I will highlight book right now. I must get used to these new tri-focals (only had them a week).
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So what you are saying is......That the procedures manual should now be updated to the above.
What will happen if I use the original specs? And pattern? -
I used this procedure on my last 2 engines and neither leak. I am using Best gaskets on both from Dale Cooper. Use the original spec if you want just check to see if anything is leaking. Also it sounds like you need to repair those two that will not stay torqued that is not acceptable. The above spec was an answer to a service bulletin that Hudson had stating that heads were leaking in the new cars. So they came up with a new gasket and new torquing sequence. I have hundreds of updates like this to the factory manuals.www.hudsonmotorcar.org
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I got my new gaskets (bought a spare) from Mr. Cooper as well. I will torque to 65 using the pattern above and finish putting everything back together so I can try to start it and check for leaks.
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I got a Tip from a Hudson mechanic that worked at a dealership I bought out the stock
in the 70's. He told me to coat both sides of the gasket with alluminum paint.
I've always done this and have never had a problem or "do over ".
It might be hard to find paint with real Alluminum content today , but it's worth the look.
Roy -
Uncle Josh.......I just double checked the manual. Section 3-15, figure 12: 6 cyl are torqued to 70-75lbs. The manual still has the old pattern, not the one 51HornetA shared.
I used the "new" pattern and torqued to 65lbs. I will continue the slow, careful reinstall of everything else (I lost the drain plug somewhere under car). Before I start I will check torque at 65lbs and see how things are holding. Then I will move on to starting and warming it up to torque again. -
I will.
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I just replaced a leaking Best - GraphTite gasket that I had put on "dry" three years ago. I used Copper Coat this time with the new Best - GraphTite gasket. I only torqued to 65 lbs., 308 cast iron head.
If you go to the Best gasket website, they tell you to use K & W Copper Coat or Permatex Spray-A-Gasket.
Here's the link.
http://www.bestgasket.com/about_our_products.aspbestgasket.com/about_our_products.asp
Hope this helps,
John Forkner -
3 years plus on one 308 dry install torqued to 75Ibs as per Hudsons factory updated instructions second engine 2 years and counting. Not a leak or problem on either. On every new rebuild I always use new head bolts. Follow the torque procedure and always recheck after about 1000 miles. Just finished two engines for my 54's I am restoring same procedure every time. Nothing wrong with using copper coat if you think you need it.www.hudsonmotorcar.org

