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Bleeding brakes on 1940
  • parkermparkerm
    Posts: 36Hitchhiker
    Does anyone know where I can get the brake bleeder tube that is referred to in my manual when it is necessary to bleed the brakes?
    If not does anyone know if some other tube or hose will fit?

    Thanks for any help.

    Marvin
  • Kevin C.Kevin C.
    Posts: 409Platinum Member
    Marvin,

    Take a spare bleeder valve to a local auto parts store and buy a piece of rubber fuel line. Test fit the bleeder valve to the hose to ensure that you have a snug fit.

    I found that a 2' piece was sufficient to reach the bottom of the drain jar.


    Kevin C.
  • parkermparkerm
    Posts: 36Hitchhiker
    Kevin,
    Thanks for the reply I really appreciate it.

    Marvin
  • [Deleted User]
    Posts: 123Member
    I use to have a MightyVac pressure bleeder that you filled with fluid, had a hand pump on the lid, pressurized the bottle and forced the fluid either through the master or revered through the wheel cylinders (or clutch slaves and what nots). The kit came with a bunch of adapters that fit inside the the tubing and snapped onto a variety of bleeders.
    I left fluid in the bottle too long though and ruined the rubber check valve in it :(

    I picked up a Phonex Systems bleeder from Summit that does one man pressure or reverse bleeding but have not tried it yet. It also came with the fitting adapters.
    Or you can get for around $5.00 from Summit (or where ever) a perfomance tools bleeder bottle (with a few adapters). Its got a magnetic hanger and you put some fluid in the bottle so when you press on the pedal it pushes the fluid out the bleeder and when you release it draws fluid and not air up through the hose in the bottle.
    A glass bottle and a length of hose also does the one man bleeder trick.
    At times I have had the best luck with reverse bleeding and then let the fluid gravity bleed for a few seconds before closing the bleeder screw.
  • parkermparkerm
    Posts: 36Hitchhiker
    Mike,
    I found bleeder screws at the auto parts store but I like the sound of what you have described. I am going to look for just such a system.

    I my original manual it describes that there should be a screw in the end of the bleeder valve that you remove and then screw in a fitting with a hose attached so you can bleed the system but the screws are missing. The bleeder screws that i found at the auto parts store have a nipple on the end that you can attach the hose to.

    Thanks for responding with the information.

    Marvin
  • [Deleted User]
    Posts: 123Member
    http://www.summitracing.com/parts/PSL-2004/
    This is what I currently have. It is Phoenix System's least expensive. It does reverse (pressure) or suction bleeding by just placing the hose on either end. I have not tried mine yet. I have used their more expensive version ($300+/-) made with a metal body (and the all imporant blow molded case!) and it worked well. I just hope the cheaper plastic version holds up for the weekend warrior type use.

    I also have one of these,
    http://www.summitracing.com/parts/WMR-W80625/
    Its just the simple bottle you put some fluid in, connect the hose to the bleeder, open the bleeder and pump the pedal. The fluid comes out of the bleeder into the bottle that has some fluid, then when you relese the pedal it draws fluid up instead of air. Simple one man job. Watched my brother bleed VW brakes with a coke bottle this way.


    I cannot find the old MityVac tool that I used. It looked something like this,

    http://www.amazon.com/Mityvac-Fluid-Transfer-Hand-Pump/dp/B001GOQJLS/ref=sr_1_27?ie=UTF8&qid=1332729319&sr=8-27
    It was a like a half gallon bottle that you put the fluid in, hand pump on the lid and a trigger to control the flow. I don't think they make it any longer as after mine went bad I searched and searched.
    What I did find this time while searching is a rebuild kit with the part that went bad.... and I threw mine out... FUDGE!