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electrical question
  • eddynghdsn16eddynghdsn16
    Posts: 170Expert Adviser
    I am putting a fuse block into my 52 Hornet and just wondered if I can eliminate the 30 amp circuit breaker. I would think it is not needed if all circuits have fuses.:)
  • Ken U-Tx
    Posts: 1,097Platinum Member
    Yes, if all circuits are fused, the circuit breaker can be eliminated, but be sure all the wires are of sufficient ampacity, in other words the correct gauge. I assume you are going to use 12 volts?

    Chart for AWG wire and their respective ampacities (amps rating).

    http://www.powerstream.com/Wire_Size.htm

    Use the amps for "chassis wiring", not "power transmission".
  • eddynghdsn16eddynghdsn16
    Posts: 170Expert Adviser
    Thank you for that information, very useful. It is already 12volts and I thought it is a good idea to put in a fuse block to tidy the wireing and not have in line fuses. :)
  • SuperDaveSuperDave
    Posts: 2,368Platinum Member
    leave the headlights on the circuit breaker. Some dark night you may wish you had.
  • hudsontechhudsontech
    Posts: 4,038Platinum Member
    SuperDave wrote:
    leave the headlights on the circuit breaker. Some dark night you may wish you had.

    Oh, I don't know SuperDave - I had a couple GM cars (56 Pony/57 Olds) way back when and those had the headlights on a circuit breaker. There were a couple of times the breaker overheated (or whatever) and the lights went out.

    Thrilling at 70 per on a narrow 2 lane highway at 2 in the morning. Reminds me of the song by Tom T. Hall, Me and Jesus - we did have a fervent conversation at the time.

    Hudsonly,
    Alex Burr
    Memphis, TN
  • Park_WPark_W
    Posts: 2,051Platinum Member
    At least with the breaker the lights can come back on, depending on where the problem is. I'm with Dave.
  • brumac
    Posts: 187Expert Adviser
    Eddy, Ken, Dave, Park and Alex,

    I got her down to 40 before the circuit breaker came back on and I was never so happy to see the light. Stay with the breaker. It might be a good idea to replace the old one with a fresh new one. I don't know if some deteriorate over time and loose their capacity but maybe someone on here does know.

    Bruce
  • Ken U-Tx
    Posts: 1,097Platinum Member
    The headlight circuit breaker is by itself on the headlight switch, that is, if you still have the original Hudson switch. It is separate from the main breaker that is behind the instrument panel on the dash cross-member
    If the main breaker goes, the engine quits too, as the power to the IGN switch/ coil comes through that breaker. If you add AC, a high powered stereo, and an electric fuel pump, all that extra juice going through the main circuit breaker can cause it to trip. Been there, done that, fixed it by running separate fuses and circuits to the fuel pump and AC.
  • dougsondougson
    Posts: 598Platinum Member
    Maybe do all. I have every circuit on an ATC fuse per specific function, but the main power to the ignition switch, hence the fuse panel, goes through a circuit breaker to prevent frying the fuse panel or ignition switch. I would suggest a circuit breaker and not one of those in-line 30 AMP fuse inserts that use an ATC fuse. A had a fire because of one of those. I would also suggest a 30 AMP circuit breaker for the horn.
  • RonSRonS
    Posts: 610Platinum Member
    Brumac, Napa sells the circuit breaker( CB)that you need. It is a 25amp Napa part # 782-3003. Once you remove the headlight dash switch, it's an easy self guided replacement. I do recommend a relay be installed. The CB works on a bimetal heat element. After years of heating and cooling off, the element gets hot and stretches too much and the circuit opens. The relay ,kind of, sends the current from the battery through the relay to the lights. Simply put the CB never gets so hot as to stretch out, because most of the current misses the switch . You will probably never need to do this again. Relay is about $35 and a couple of hours work to install.
  • brumac
    Posts: 187Expert Adviser
    Thanks Ron,
    That was a long time ago with my old 50C6. The next day I installed a NAPA headlight relay and never had the problem again. Sometime in the past couple of years I wired relays into my 54 HSpecial when I went to 12V. My tired old eyes just love those halogens at night. At one time I had an aircraft landing light on one side of my 73 Olds. It was FANTASTIC but impossible to use in our semi rural area and I removed it.
  • walts garage-53
    Posts: 1,468Platinum Member
    I don't under stand why you all are having troubles with your headlights. I converted to 12 volts 13 years ago and installed a new YnZ's harness and have traveled 139,000 miles so far and have never had any headlight problems, cross country with a lot of night travel. Never changed any parts on the wiring system, all still original. You people must have bad wires. Walt.
  • walts garage-53
    Posts: 1,468Platinum Member
    I don't under stand why you all are having troubles with your headlights. I converted to 12 volts 13 years ago and installed a new YnZ's harness and have traveled 139,000 miles so far and have never had any headlight problems, cross country with a lot of night travel. Never changed any parts on the wiring system, all still original. You people must have bad wires. Walt.
    Forgot, I use the new Sylvania Silverstar High Performance Halogen head lamps and it's day time when traveling at night.