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Hudson "Woody" Junker
  • Bill Weber
    Posts: 36Greasemonkey
    If I could see the bottom of the engine, 99% of my problems would disappear! I can't view the underside of the motor to be able to see if the pan is flaired, or any other underside of anything, for that matter.

    I understand that your point is, if it is a later model engine, it is most likely a replacement for a Super Six - search complete. BUT - not necessarily so! It could still have had an original I8 motor that, that for whatever reason, had been replaced with a newer version I8 motor. Interesting logic, but doesn't prove anything.
    \"Never underestimate the power of stupid people in large numbers!\"
  • bent metalbent metal
    Posts: 1,348Platinum Member
    Mr Weber, your right! The bottom of the motor doesn't matter. The thing that would make this a really rare care is if the numbers match. The body number doesn't matter because you can make a new tag. What you need is the engine number to match the frame. We can see it's a woody, that's not in dispute. But if it's an original eight! Wow! Still good if it's not, just cuz it's a woody.

    I think the frame number will be on the top of the frame on the passenger side of the engine compartment in the area between where the cab mounts and the front suspension is. That's a small, maybe two foot stretch there.

    The motor number should also be on the passenger side. An inch or two down from the top, and three or four inches back from the front.(??) Or so.

    I may not be axactly right, but I think I'm close to where the numbers are located.
  • Marconi
    Posts: 549Platinum Member
    One place to check would be the engine number itself. It's stamped in th top of the block between the first two exhaust ports/manifold runners. I realize that this area is probably badly weathered but som careful work with a sharp chisel or the like may turn up the number. Try the same idea on the top of the right frame rail to get the worst of it off, then try some 100 or 220 grit sandpaper lightly.
  • nick snick s
    Posts: 696Platinum Member
    SamJ wrote:
    Here's a photo of Hedley Bennett's terrific '38 from London, Ontario.
    [attachment=11876]Bennett38Woody.jpg[/attachment]
    Hedley's 39 was close to the fate of the subject car. As the story goes, the cabinet maker's shop that help it for a long time as all the wood made/installed (I think a several year period) burned to the ground within days of it returning to Chuck Rogers who owned her before Hedley.
  • RL ChiltonRL Chilton
    Posts: 3,457Platinum Member
    Mr. Weber-

    Strictly personal conjecture here, but take it for what it's worth:

    I believe having the engine # match the frame # here is more a matter of personal interest amongst your fellow Hudnuts, rather, than a point of value. That is said in light of the condition of the car. Were it complete, say, not having been the victim of a fire or victim of decades of outdoor splendor, matching #'s might have more value per say, than in it's current condition, in which so little of the original car is actually salvageable.

    In the world of the big high-profile auctions, matching #'s automobiles are always held in high esteem, simply because it's another selling point (meaning it can be sold for more, or so the "experts" have propogandized). Oftentimes, amongst your average Hudson (or many other makes) collector, it means far less in actuality.

    The other point about the personal interest, is that, as it has been mentioned, a Hudson Woody "8", is simply an unknown, even amongst your most avid Hudnut. Honestly, with the condition of the car, it's not more than a curiosity. This is coming from someone who is currently restoring a Hudson convertible that, believe it or not, started out in far worse condition than your Woody.

    Keep in mind that your market for that particular car is very, very small. It is actually a monumental task to properly restore a gem like yours back to it's former glory and takes a constitution that most are not willing to endure. I use the term "restore" here in it's proper place. Hot Rod it? Fairly routine work. Restore it, as this car certainly deserves, is an entirely different ballgame.

    It's "value" comes from the fact it's a Woody, it's a '42.
  • onerare39onerare39
    Posts: 528Hitchhiker
    I didn't go back and read all of Bill's posts again but if Bill could find the title to the Woody the serial number would be there wouldn't it. Although, if an 8 was transplanted at some time that serial number have been changed on the title at some point also.

    Just a thought.

    John Forkner

    Sam J., Nice call... the eyebrows and beak are what makes it work.
  • Bill Weber
    Posts: 36Greasemonkey
    To: RL Chilton:

    Thank you for your observations regarding the woody. I am not a Hudnut, and the only things that I know about Hudsons I learned in the last two weeks. Even so, I tend to agree with much of what you said. Whatever makes a car like this woody attractive to the collecting community, and what will drive the "value" factor, is that it is probably one of a kind, in a version here-to-for unknown.

    Whoever gets it will be interested in doing a complete restoration to it. No one will buy it thinking to place it, in its present condition, into a collection "as is". No one would want to buy it, or even take it as a gift, unless he was dedicated to its restoration. It is simply too costly a project to recover and transport to a new location untold miles away, simply to watch it complete the oxidation process that was begun upon manufacture, and which has so finely progressed over the last 50 years.
    \"Never underestimate the power of stupid people in large numbers!\"
  • Kevin C.Kevin C.
    Posts: 409Platinum Member
    Bill,

    Here are 3 pictures of VIN locations on my 1939. Since I have no information on 1942 Hudsons I can't swear that you will find the VIN for your vehicle at the same locations, but they are a good place to look.


    [attachment=11887]VINPics001.jpg[/attachment]
    I have placed blue painters tape over the existing locations of the VIN. This picture is on the passenger side frame just aft of the front wheel.




    [attachment=11889]VINPics003.jpg[/attachment]
    This location is on the passengers side rear on top of the frame.



    [attachment=11890]VINPics002.jpg[/attachment]
    One of your pictures shows the rear end of the '42, so you should be able to access this location. A sturdy wire brush should remove the rust/dirt/etc. to enable you to see this number. If this number matches the VIN at one of the other locations, you will have found what you were looking for.


    I hope these pictures help.


    Kevin C.
    VINPics001.jpg
    800 x 600 - 46K
    VINPics003.jpg
    800 x 600 - 39K
    VINPics002.jpg
    800 x 600 - 50K
  • Bill Weber
    Posts: 36Greasemonkey
    Thank you, Kevin. It is very kind of you to take the time to do this for me. I hope the areas you marked on your 1939 haven't changed for the 1942. I guess the hardest thing to determine will be if the MOTOR number matches any of the other location numbers. THAT is the question. THAT will determine if the motor is original to the rest of the woody, and, if so, it should prove that Hudson did make an I8 cylinder woody, in 1942, and that would make this car the only known example.

    BW
    \"Never underestimate the power of stupid people in large numbers!\"
  • Bill Weber
    Posts: 36Greasemonkey
    Gentlemen:

    Last night I used a power drill and wire brush bit to remove surface rust from the locations, as noted by others, which might prove fruitful in finding even one serial number, or partial number. I was completely unsuccessful. I could not make any attempt to check the motor block for the serial number as there were too many things in the way (engine parts, horn, manifold, etc.), and removing them would be a difficult task, as removing rusted frozen bolts always is, although if the vehicle was to be raised, there might be hope of finding it.

    I might try a power sander on the various frame/shroud locations, but don't hold out much hope that such an effort will succeed either. I think my searching efforts have, regretfully, come to an end.

    BW
    \"Never underestimate the power of stupid people in large numbers!\"
  • RL ChiltonRL Chilton
    Posts: 3,457Platinum Member
    I've never seen the following in Hudson Literature before, but I got a "new" book recently, titled, "American Motors Family Album". The book is a series of period pictures, 4 per page, that chronicle American Motors through the date of the book, which is 1969.

    There is a picture of a '41 Hudson Woody. The caption reads, "1941 HUDSON Station Wagon-- This model, available in either a six or eight-cylinder engine, was mounted on a 121-inch wheelbase."
  • hudsontechhudsontech
    Posts: 4,042Platinum Member
    RL Chilton wrote:
    I've never seen the following in Hudson Literature before, but I got a "new" book recently, titled, "American Motors Family Album". The book is a series of period pictures, 4 per page, that chronicle American Motors through the date of the book, which is 1969.

    There is a picture of a '41 Hudson Woody. The caption reads, "1941 HUDSON Station Wagon-- This model, available in either a six or eight-cylinder engine, was mounted on a 121-inch wheelbase."

    That's one of the better Hudson books - if you need pictures. In fact it was the American Motors Family Album that was the force behind my General Information Handbook. That started out as a Hudson Family Album and growed from there into what is online today.

    Hudsonly,
    Alex Burr
    Memphis, TN
  • Bill Weber
    Posts: 36Greasemonkey
    GREAT NEWS GENTLEMEN!

    Tonight I used an orbital sander on the areas where the serial number was most expected to be. The passenger side rear most top angle of the frame and the rear axle shroud, just above the rear shock connection, below the brake line. I was successful!

    On the frame, I found the following number: "I36734" [The "I" might be a "D" or a "1", but I'm opting for the "I". One of you might have a better thought on the matter?]

    On the shroud, I found "36734". [The "I" was not apparant]

    Now - can anyone take this information and run with it?

    BW
    \"Never underestimate the power of stupid people in large numbers!\"
  • hudsontechhudsontech
    Posts: 4,042Platinum Member
    I was afraid you were going to run into that. Briefly, if the number is 136734, or even 36734 it won't tell us much. All serial numbers from 1935 thru 1951 began with -101.

    Certainly the number you found is within the range of 1942 (ending number was 41232). Which is not to say that all numbers were used - in the case of 1942 due to the curtailing of production in Feb. 1942 to do war work. There were 5,396 passenger cars produced and only 67 commercial models. That figure is significant as station wagons were considered commercial vehicles.

    Of course that goes by the board if your remains have an 8 cylinder engine - that, most likely, could only have been by special order since, as pointed out earlier only wagon produced in '42 appears to have been a six cylinder model.

    Hudsonly,
    Alex Burr
    Memphis, TN
  • 53jetman53jetman
    Posts: 873Platinum Member
    Alex - The production figures you give above were those produced during calendar year 1942. 1942 model production most likely began somewhere during the Oct. 1941 calendar month. Has the actual 1942 units produced in 1941 ever been determined? This is just food for thought! ! !

    Jerry
    Jerry
    email: HudsonJetman@mail.com
    2nd Generation Hud-Nut
    HET Tech Adviser on Hudson Jets 1953 & 1954
    HET Registrar of all Hudson Jets
  • hudsontechhudsontech
    Posts: 4,042Platinum Member
    53jetman wrote:
    Alex - The production figures you give above were those produced during calendar year 1942. 1942 model production most likely began somewhere during the Oct. 1941 calendar month. Has the actual 1942 units produced in 1941 ever been determined? This is just food for thought! ! !

    Jerry

    Actually, Jerry, the figues I have are not production figures - they are shippment figures. Actual production figures prior to 1946 have not surfaced in the nearly 40 years I've been digging. This is not to say that somebody, somewhere, isn't sitting on early production figures. At one time there were no known production figures between 1946 and 1957 - they finally showed up and are in my General Info Handbook. A copy of that is in the online library @ http://hetclub.org/burr/lithomepage.htm - under "Other Hudson - Essex - Terraplane Literature" at the top of the page.

    If you take 1942 shippment figures and divide the total by 4.5 months of production you come up with around 1200 cars a month. So we're looking at maybe 1800 cars produced between Jan. 1 and Feb 14, 1942. Ball park figures and not entirely accurate. But you work with what you got.

    Hudsonly,
    Alex Burr
    Memphis, TN
    It is my opinion that Hudson used two accounting systems for cars built - one is the shipping figures which are from calendar dates, ie October to October, but the actual production figures were kept from Jan thru Dec, thus overlapping. Or maybe it's the other way around.

    Since Hudson car production ended in mid-Feb (14th comes to mind) I would say that very few cars were built in the 1942 calander year.
  • Bill Weber
    Posts: 36Greasemonkey
    Knowing the vin of the Bob Weber Hudson Woody, can you venture a guess as to the year and month that it might have been produced?

    Knowing the serial numbers that have surfaced on the frame and rear axle shroud of that vehicle, what would be the number that "should be" on the I8 motor block of that Hudson - if it was to be proved original to the vehicle?

    Also - would the motor block numbers be of the same light stampings that I already found, or would they be somehow different?
    \"Never underestimate the power of stupid people in large numbers!\"
  • oldhudsonsoldhudsons
    Posts: 1,728Platinum Member
    Bill - that would be impossible to do because Hudson didn't build the body. The chassis might have been one of the 1st '42s but then would have been sent off to Cantrell or whoever built the body where it may have taken weeks or longer to construct the body.
    How did this process work? Did Cantrell order a certain # of Hudson chassis & then build some wagons in anticipation of selling them? Were they only built when a dealer put in an order for one? I doubt if anyone knows.
    Railton would buy chassis sometimes at the end of the model run as he could get a better price on them from Hudson. Then Railton would do some of the special things they did to modify the chassis, etc., then hope for orders whence the chassis would be sent off to body builders of which there were several they used.
    Perhaps your '42 was built on a '41 chassis?
    Interesting things to contemplate.
  • SamJSamJ
    Posts: 1,405Platinum Member
    The more I read these posts the less I know...:P
    HETfortyqtpi@earthlink.net (drop the HET)

  • hudsontechhudsontech
    Posts: 4,042Platinum Member
    OldHudson - you do bring up some interesting thoughts. Hudson supplied a chassis and running gear, Cantrell built the body. So the next step is to wonder did the body carry a Hudson ID plate on the right front door post - or ??????????? If a Hudson ID plate was used, as is probable, they must have sent the ID plate with the chassis & drive train.

    That brings us to another wall - As you say it may have been a 1941 chassis, etc, that this wagon was built on. The motor number won't help - it doesn't carry the model number. 1941 serial numbers started out at, as I pointed out earlier, at -101.

    So I think we're stuck here with this.

    Hudsonly,
    Alex Burr
    Memphis, TN
  • RL ChiltonRL Chilton
    Posts: 3,457Platinum Member
    Alex, this is just a guess on my part about the body tag. The "A"-Post is part of the cowl, meaning part of the metalwork of the car. The "wood" portion begins at the front, or leading edge of the door. My assumption is that Hudson would have provided a body tag attached to the passenger A-post, as they did on all of their cars.

    Of course, bentmetal would need to verify this for us.
  • frank springfrank spring
    Posts: 326Gold Member
    I don't think we are stuck at all. The one thing easily done, is to determine if it is a late 8 or early eight. If it is late, end of conversation. If it is early, then continue to entertain the idea. But taking the time to look at the bottom rear of the engine will at least determine if it warrants further discussion.
  • Bill Weber
    Posts: 36Greasemonkey
    I don't see what knowing if the vehicle has a late, or early, model in line 8 cylinder motor has to do with anything? Since the motor is an 8, and nobody has ever heard of a 1942 Hudson woody having an 8, what difference would it make? In either case, early 8 or late 8, someone will no doubt step forward and say that someone swapped out the 6 cylinder motor it probably originally had, for an 8?

    As for it being an easy task to note which kind of 8 cylinder motor it is, being that the car rests on the ground and the underside can't be seen unless the whole car is raised or a tunnel is excavated under the vehicle, I do not agree! I welcome anyone who would like to come here and perform either method of investigation.

    BW
    \"Never underestimate the power of stupid people in large numbers!\"
  • hudsontechhudsontech
    Posts: 4,042Platinum Member
    RL Chilton wrote:
    Alex, this is just a guess on my part about the body tag. The "A"-Post is part of the cowl, meaning part of the metalwork of the car. The "wood" portion begins at the front, or leading edge of the door. My assumption is that Hudson would have provided a body tag attached to the passenger A-post, as they did on all of their cars.

    Of course, bentmetal would need to verify this for us.

    I'd have to say, upon peaceful contemplation in the "library", that you are correct, RL

    Hudsonly,
    Alex Burr
    Memphis, TN
  • Bill Weber
    Posts: 36Greasemonkey
    I asked this earlier in the string, but got no reply?

    Since the serial number which I found on two places on the frame and rear axle shroud is 36734, would the number on the engine block be the same (proving it is the original motor), and would the number on the engine block be stamped into the block using the same stamps used elsewhere on this vehicle or be raised letters or something else?

    BW
    \"Never underestimate the power of stupid people in large numbers!\"
  • bent metalbent metal
    Posts: 1,348Platinum Member
    Bill Weber wrote:
    I asked this earlier in the string, but got no reply?

    Since the serial number which I found on two places on the frame and rear axle shroud is 36734, would the number on the engine block be the same (proving it is the original motor), and would the number on the engine block be stamped into the block using the same stamps used elsewhere on this vehicle or be raised letters or something else?

    BW
    Yes, same number, stamped into the block. Just like the frame numbers were. That's what you want, numbers matching.:)

    You're going to have to go over there with a screw driver to loosen up the debris. Then something to get the dirt out of there. Paint brush, dust buster, portable air tank, whatever it takes. So you can get to the numbers. I believe "Marconi" gave a good discription of exactly where the number is.
  • hudsontechhudsontech
    Posts: 4,042Platinum Member
    At the risk of becoming obnoxious I will repeat, again, that just the numbers are NOT going to tell you the year!!!!

    36734 is the serial number, and the serial number only. The only place that is going to contain model info is the missing ID plate.

    Again, I will repeat - all serial numbers for all models began with -101 from 1935 thru 1951. The model number prefaced the serial number, ie (1942) 22-101, 24-101, etc. The only place this prefix appears, to the best of my 40 years reseach knowledge, is on the ID plate on the right front door post.

    Hudsonly,
    Alex Burr
    Memphis, TN
  • Bill Weber
    Posts: 36Greasemonkey
    Isn't the question - "Is the motor original to the vehicle?"
    Isn't that what everybody wants to know?

    Don't we already know that it's a 1942 Hudson woody?
    Isn't that what everyone already says it is?

    Isn't the physical appearance enough to tell you the year?

    It would be a fine bit of information to have the door post plate, but it is missing. So is all the wood that made up the body of the vehicle, but it's still a woody, just the same?

    You know the saying - "if it walks like a duck.........etc."
    \"Never underestimate the power of stupid people in large numbers!\"
  • roy chapin
    Posts: 34Greasemonkey
    hudsontech wrote:
    At the risk of becoming obnoxious I will repeat, again, that just the numbers are NOT going to tell you the year!!!!
    It's a 1942.
    36734 is the serial number, and the serial number only. The only place that is going to contain model info is the missing ID plate.
    It's a woody and still has trim to show model.
    Again, I will repeat - all serial numbers for all models began with -101 from 1935 thru 1951. The model number prefaced the serial number, ie (1942) 22-101, 24-101, etc. The only place this prefix appears, to the best of my 40 years reseach knowledge, is on the ID plate on the right front door post.
    As Mr. Weber said early on, the ID plate is missing. Maybe melted in the fire? It's not needed. He, and WE, just need to know if the engine matches the frame. That's all that matters. Not if the engine is a 1942. But if that car was born with that engine.
    Hudsonly,
    Alex Burr
    Memphis, TN
  • nick snick s
    Posts: 696Platinum Member
    hudsontech wrote:

    36734 is the serial number, and the serial number only. The only place that is going to contain model info is the missing ID plate.


    Hudsonly,
    Alex Burr
    Memphis, TN

    Not sure about the frame markings but sometimes the engine serial number does contain the model prefix. I know that is not consitant in stepdown production (think it may have disapeared for a period when they quit for going back to 101) and i do not know for earlier. I have three number maching cars, a 48 8, a 50 262 and a 54 308 all carrying the model prefix.
  • RL ChiltonRL Chilton
    Posts: 3,457Platinum Member
    Bill Weber wrote:
    Isn't the question - "Is the motor original to the vehicle?"
    Isn't that what everybody wants to know?

    Don't we already know that it's a 1942 Hudson woody?
    Isn't that what everyone already says it is?

    Isn't the physical appearance enough to tell you the year?

    It would be a fine bit of information to have the door post plate, but it is missing. So is all the wood that made up the body of the vehicle, but it's still a woody, just the same?

    You know the saying - "if it walks like a duck.........etc."

    Mr. Weber-

    Yes, I think we are all agreed! Your car is a 1942 Hudson Woody, Super Series.
    Only question left is, did that engine come with that car? If it did, then it is the only 8-cylinder Woody that anyone has ever heard of. Only way to tell, is if the number on the block matches the number on the frame (since the door post tag is MIA). Since the car is "down in the dirt", the riddle will probably have to stay a riddle until the car is sold and moved.
  • nick snick s
    Posts: 696Platinum Member
    2 questions:

    1. Did all Eights in 42 have the small headlight doors with vertical bars below? That may be a tipoff that this was a six.

    2. Is there a story how the rear seat survived the fire and the years?
  • Bill Weber
    Posts: 36Greasemonkey
    That rear seat isn't from the Hudson!
    \"Never underestimate the power of stupid people in large numbers!\"
  • RL ChiltonRL Chilton
    Posts: 3,457Platinum Member
    Bill Weber wrote:
    That rear seat isn't from the Hudson!

    It looks as though it is. That was the style of seats that were in the Woody's. They were very utilitarian and plain. Like bus seats.
  • Uncle JoshUncle Josh
    Posts: 1,860Platinum Member
    SamJ wrote:
    The more I read these posts the less I know...:P
    Yas, like the rest of us, you're still confused, but at a higher level, and about more important things.
  • faustmbfaustmb
    Posts: 1,104Platinum Member
    I'd love to see someone step up and bring this thing into daylight. Its a very cool piece of history.

    Bill- any idea of asking price? It's hard to price, rare as can be but mostly only rough parts and patterns left.

    PS - I'm glad you decided to post this on here and give this car a chance to be complete once more.
  • Bill Weber
    Posts: 36Greasemonkey
    Yes, my intentions are to sell the vehicle. Hopefully this fall before the snow flies, but as with everything that is a rarity, or one of a kind, the value is buyer/seller. There are no standards to go by. There are no previous sales to go on - at least none that I know about, or even similar situations to base value on. My initial thoughts are that even though the car is in poor shape, it's rarity gives it significant value.

    My thoughts are that it is more likely that a collector/restorer will come forth and want it for his collection and be willing and able to do the restoration himself or have the ability to pay someone else to do the restoration for him. I doubt that anyone will want to buy the car as an investment and then pay untold money to fix it up given the unknown value of the restoration when finished, or even if he could recover his total investment?

    Thus - what do we have here?

    We have a 1942 Hudson super series woody - rare in it's own right, which might be super rare if it has an original in line 8 cylinder motor.

    There are two distinct values which this car could have. One, if it was originally a six cylinder woody, and one if it was originally an eight cylinder woody.

    In either case, looking at the same vehicle, it has two value numbers to consider.

    I'm not sure just how to sell the vehicle? Any suggestions?

    BTW - I'm still considering the easiest way for me to attempt to discover the motor block number - given that I have no help or daylight hours during which to work. I'd like to try jacking the vehicle up at four points; enough to be able to slip under the front end and find that number.

    Would the gentleman who called me today please call again. I couldn't call you back because you didn't leave your number?
    \"Never underestimate the power of stupid people in large numbers!\"
  • Clutch guy
    Posts: 811Platinum Member
    To tell if it is an early 8 or late 8 from under the hood?,look at how the water pump is mounted. Is the water outlet from the block going to the lower radiator neck, part of the water pump or its own separate housing?. Are there 2 bolts that bolt the water pump housing to the front of the block or is the water pump bolted directly to the engine. This can be done by opening the hood and taking a quick glance,not too difficult. The adapter in front with 2 bolts into the block and the water pump bolts to the housing, tells you it is period correct. Ironing board or a flare block?. Has the exhaust pipe coming from the exhaust manifold in front have any noticeable welding or modifications? 6 vs 8 , does it have an 8 cylinder radiator,or what might be left from one. Has the radiator tray in front of the radiator been modified for the 8 cylinder engine. if it is missing??,maybe wasn't put back in when someone changed the engine. Where does the factory fuel line-[steel] ,come to on the frame and is the factory female fuel nut in place. If it is a factory 8 clylinder,it should also have a special radiator mounting bracket at the bottom or the rad. , ? ,easily seen by lifting the hood. hope this helps confuse you somemore. CG
  • frank springfrank spring
    Posts: 326Gold Member
    Sell it on Ebay, a world market. I bought a one off Jet Convertible on Ebay a few years ago.
  • faustmbfaustmb
    Posts: 1,104Platinum Member
    Sell it on Ebay, a world market. I bought a one off Jet Convertible on Ebay a few years ago.

    That's what I was thinking. You jumped on that pretty quick if I remember correctly, I was glad to see that car come up for sale finally.
  • Bill Weber
    Posts: 36Greasemonkey
    Selling it on eBay probably makes sense to many people, but I have issues with that company and their policies. I used to buy and sell on eBay, until about 5 years ago. Nothing since then. Also, the world venue doesn't entice me at all. I wouldn't sell to anyone that didn't live in the USA or Canada, and I'm not sure about Canada. I'd much prefer a private sale, if possible, with as few details involved in the sale, except as necessary.

    I'm not ruling out eBay, or other auction sites. They are simply way down on the list of possibilities.

    This brings up an interesting question to me. If, and when, I sell this to anyone, is there any paperwork necessary that must go along with the vehicle? I have nothing at all! The car was basically abandoned by my uncle at my father's home - 50+/- years ago. Whether or not my uncle ever had any bill of sale, or title, is unknown to me? Certainly my father, mother, or I never had anything.

    BW
    \"Never underestimate the power of stupid people in large numbers!\"
  • Terraplane33Terraplane33
    Posts: 233Gold Member
    You could mention you do not accept to sell internationally like some people do not accept to ship overseas (unfortunately...), Ebay is interesting as it's seen by many people but in this cas, the buyer needs to show up by himself, dig out the car, put it on a trailer and bring it to a container to ship it home... Not easy at all...
    Location : France
  • oldhudsonsoldhudsons
    Posts: 1,728Platinum Member
    Bill - every state is different but in Calif. you could load it onto a trailer, take it to DMV, fill out a "Lost Title" form, provide them with the VIN but taking the trailer & car there, they inspect it then "run" it to see if not reported stolen or registered in the last few years, and if so, you'd get a nice fresh new "pink slip" in the mail.
    Possession is 9/10ths of the law.
    I understand some states don't even have titles, just use bill of sale. If you're in Ill., or whereever, I'd just go down to the state agency that handles that, get necessary forms & info & get a title as I know a lot of guys WON'T touch a car for which there is no title, and rightfully so!
  • Bill Weber
    Posts: 36Greasemonkey
    I just got off the phone with the NYSDMV and they told me that I must get a transferable registration before I can sell it. This requires a tracing, photo or viewing by a law enforcement officer, of the VIN, then taking that information to the MV office and starting a new paper trail for the title. It could take several weeks or longer to do this, but I'm glad I found out now and not later. By making a new title, it will be a cleaner deal than not having it.

    BW
    \"Never underestimate the power of stupid people in large numbers!\"
  • hudsontechhudsontech
    Posts: 4,042Platinum Member
    Bill Weber wrote:
    I just got off the phone with the NYSDMV and they told me that I must get a transferable registration before I can sell it. This requires a tracing, photo or viewing by a law enforcement officer, of the VIN, then taking that information to the MV office and starting a new paper trail for the title. It could take several weeks or longer to do this, but I'm glad I found out now and not later. By making a new title, it will be a cleaner deal than not having it.

    BW

    Bill, one way around cumbersome regulations such as what you've encountered can be to find someone in a title state who can get you a title.

    To clarify I'll use the state of Maine where I used to live. Vehicles beyond a certain age do not require a title, but one can be obtained for, the last I knew, $50. So if I lived in the state of Maine, which I used to, you could "sell" me the car; I would then take the bill of sale to the registry and apply for a title. Once the title was received I would then "sell" the car back to you and you would have a Maine title which should satisfy DMV.

    It does take a little faith that the person you are dealing with won't laugh in your face and make off with your vehicle - I'd say with 99% of the Hudson club people you are pretty safe. I think I can safely say that if anybody that did this for you stiffed you their life would become miserable.

    Back in the day when I lived in Maine I did this several times for Hudson owners requiring a title.

    Hudsonly,
    Alex Burr
    Memphis, TN
  • oldhudsonsoldhudsons
    Posts: 1,728Platinum Member
    I did the "local viewing" thing once. Knew a friend who knew a local cop. We met & he was happy to come by, see my Hudsons, and inspect & verify the one I had which was inoperable so if you know a member of the local constabulary, go that route.
  • Bill Weber
    Posts: 36Greasemonkey
    Thanks for the tip, Alex. I met the sheriff on site tonight and he checked out the VIN, and gave me the letter of verification that the MV requires (printed it out right in his patrol vehicle), so I think I'll see what else they want from me before I abandon the effort and go the way you suggest.

    BW
    \"Never underestimate the power of stupid people in large numbers!\"
  • hudsontechhudsontech
    Posts: 4,042Platinum Member
    Bill Weber wrote:
    Thanks for the tip, Alex. I met the sheriff on site tonight and he checked out the VIN, and gave me the letter of verification that the MV requires (printed it out right in his patrol vehicle), so I think I'll see what else they want from me before I abandon the effort and go the way you suggest.

    BW

    As my pappy told me "Always take the easy way - it's less confusing!!" LOL

    Hudsonly,
    Alex Burr
    Memphis, TN
  • Huddy42Huddy42
    Posts: 1,000Platinum Member
    I'm happy I live in Australia, If I bought a car like this, I would simply pay the owner the amount he states, then the vehicle is mine, no titles necessary, no paperwork except for a receipt for the cash that I handed over, so simple.If, on the other hand you are buying a fully registered vehicle then that is different, but, buying an old unregistered vehicle such as this one, nothing.Hand over the money get a receipt then the cars mine.
  • 46HudsonPU46HudsonPU
    Posts: 5,150Moderator
    Here is a website that can give you a lot of information on titling and registration of vehicles:

    http://www.dmv.org/

    I did like Alex indicated with one of my old trucks, which only came with a bill of sale. I sent my brother a bill of sale (he lives in GA) selling him my truck, he registered it (GA only required a bill of sale for older vehicles - at least at the time). He then signed the registration, and sold it back to me with the GA registration and a bill of sale. Ended up costing me a $30.00 registration fee.