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'38 112 Convertible Update
  • dave kastelicdave kastelic
    Posts: 264Gold Member
    Alex, do you ever get over to Pigeon Forge? I will try to get it there this year. Question for Walt. What cover are you referring to? This is our first Hudson and all attempts to correct any errors we make are appreciated.
  • hudsontechhudsontech
    Posts: 4,046Platinum Member
    Alex, do you ever get over to Pigeon Forge? I will try to get it there this year. Question for Walt. What cover are you referring to? This is our first Hudson and all attempts to correct any errors we make are appreciated.

    Was going to try and make Pigeon Forge last fall - didn't make it. Am going to try and make it this year. Time will tell. Your convert being there would make it an incentive for sure.

    Hudsonly,
    Alex Burr
    Memphis, TN
  • dave kastelicdave kastelic
    Posts: 264Gold Member
    I had plans to go last fall but broke my foot instead. Hoping for better luck this year.
  • walts garage-53
    Posts: 1,470Platinum Member
    Walt here. The horns are bolted the way they should be, but I think you have them reversed, left on right. The horn outlet should be away from the center. Get a picture of one horn front view, and this will tell me if correctly on left side and right side.
  • reidy377
    Posts: 21Greasemonkey
    Hello Dave
    I have been watching with great interest the fantastic job you are doing. In reference to your horns I'd like to throw in my two bobs worth.
    The covers that Walt is referring to are the round domes with one screw in the middle, which is the top. Now it is obvious that you have a matching pair of horns. On most horns that are paired for tone, just inside the megaphone is stamped or mouldeda " L " or " H " for low and high tone. The spirals underneath go in opposite directions, so when put togeather resonate as one.
    It's surprising how many people have two" L ' or two 'H 's even under headlight mounts.
    Now, by the photos of the mounted horns on your car, they are back to front, reason being the spirals, should lead into each other to act as one as stated earlier.
    You will notice the difference in sound.
    Hope this advise helps, keep up the good work, just sitting in the background, looking forward to more photos and the finished product.

    reidy377 Rob.
  • dave kastelicdave kastelic
    Posts: 264Gold Member
    Walt, Rob and other interested parties. Here are some close ups of the horns I took today. I believe you can see in the one picture that if they were reversed left to right the horn would almost touch the air cleaner. Thoughts appreciated.
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  • walts garage-53
    Posts: 1,470Platinum Member
    The way you have mounted is correct for 2 horns, just make sure you have a high and low horn, they are marked on the under side. The 112's came with one horn and the second was an option. The high horn is what came with the car and dealer added the low horn. If correct, they should blast like the Hornets. Walt.
  • dave kastelicdave kastelic
    Posts: 264Gold Member
    Thanks Walt. When I get the car back from the cabinet shop (wood header) I will look for the"H" and "L".
  • dave kastelicdave kastelic
    Posts: 264Gold Member
    Just got my clock and gauges back from Auto Instruments out of Virginia. Have a couple of before and after pictures. It took a long time to get them back but they really did a nice job.
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  • walts garage-53
    Posts: 1,470Platinum Member
    You are going to have one good looking dash. Walt.
  • dave kastelicdave kastelic
    Posts: 264Gold Member
    Walt, thank you for your comment and for helping answer my questions from time to time. In case anyone is wondering; the cost to repair, clean and paint the gauges and clock was $815.
  • hudsontechhudsontech
    Posts: 4,046Platinum Member
    Walt, thank you for your comment and for helping answer my questions from time to time. In case anyone is wondering; the cost to repair, clean and paint the gauges and clock was $815.

    $815 isn't all that bad - if you take two things into consideration; #1 if you were able to find them on ebay in NOS (mint) condition would probably go higher than $800 and #2 try and find them in the first place.

    For what it's worth those are beautiful. That is a great job they did for you - worth every penny.

    Hudsonly,
    Alex Burr
    Memphis, TN
  • 46HudsonPU46HudsonPU
    Posts: 5,152Moderator
    Very, very nice Dave. Good to hear that you finally got them back, and are happy with them.

    Tell your 'team' to keep up the great work - nice to see all the pictures.
  • dave kastelicdave kastelic
    Posts: 264Gold Member
    I will get as many new pictures of the progress as I can on this post. Exhaust system is now on the car. I kept the twin exhaust just like the car came to me. Have the wood convertible header finished (except staining)and bolted on. Have the front seat pretty much finished and am starting on the door panels. I took more pictures of the exhaust when the car was on the lift but somehow lost them. Will take some more when I get another chance.
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  • SamJSamJ
    Posts: 1,405Platinum Member
    I'm very impressed with everything, but the wooden header is extra noteworthy...very, very nice. Thanks for posting. :cheer:
    HETfortyqtpi@earthlink.net (drop the HET)

  • 54SuperWasp54SuperWasp
    Posts: 520Gold Member
    It's always a pleasure to come here and have a look at your post Dave. Nice pictures and I like the "before" and "after" theme. Very nice job everywhere. Michel.
  • dave kastelicdave kastelic
    Posts: 264Gold Member
    Thanks Sam and Michael for your comments. I would post the name of the guy that did the header but I doubt he wants me publicize the info. Said he is not interested in making another header for any price let alone what we agreed upon.
  • Kevin C.Kevin C.
    Posts: 410Platinum Member
    Dave,

    Absolutely super! Keep the pictures coming.

    Kevin C.
  • dave kastelicdave kastelic
    Posts: 264Gold Member
    The gauges and clock are in. Junior has started putting the leather in the rear of the car.
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  • 46HudsonPU46HudsonPU
    Posts: 5,152Moderator
    That's really coming along nicely Dave! Keep up the progress, you'll be driving her around very soon...
  • dave kastelicdave kastelic
    Posts: 264Gold Member
    I am in need of a bulb for my clock. See attached picture. If anyone knows where I can get one please let me know.
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  • hudsonsplasher1hudsonsplasher1
    Posts: 532Platinum Member
    I am in need of a bulb for my clock. See attached picture. If anyone knows where I can get one please let me know.

    Dave,
    I bought one for my 39 clock, which I think is about the same as yours at NAPA. Part #lmp55. They were $1.33 ea. They should be able help you out.
    Gene.
  • dave kastelicdave kastelic
    Posts: 264Gold Member
    Thanks Gene. I will check it out.
  • dave kastelicdave kastelic
    Posts: 264Gold Member
    I have been spending a bunch of money on my '40 Ford Sedan Delivery over the last few months. This necessitated putting the '38 112 re-build on hold. Will start back on the Hudson the first of the year. Will follow up with more pictures when progress is made. Merry Christmas to the whole Hudson family and all the best in 2012. Dave
  • kamzackkamzack
    Posts: 401Gold Member
    Hi Dave,
    Glad you're gonn be back on your Hudson, however, would it pass by the moderatros to post some pics of the sedan delivery?
    40 is the best looking prewar Ford produced and I'm especially fond of the sedan delivery body in that year. I think I remember your having posted a pic some way back, but would like to see and update.
    Kim
  • dave kastelicdave kastelic
    Posts: 264Gold Member
    I will post them on the Ford Rods site when I get some taken. Will let you know on this "topic". Do not want to be the one to start posting pictures of cars other than Hudsons on the Hudson site.
  • dave kastelicdave kastelic
    Posts: 264Gold Member
    For anyone interested I posted pictures of my '40 Ford Sedan Delivery on the "Ford Rod" site. Back working on the '38 112 so should have some pictures in the near future.
  • dave kastelicdave kastelic
    Posts: 264Gold Member
    Recently received my running boards back. From the "before" pictures you can see they were not in very good shape. Rusted out, especially the driver side, contained holes and pits, and had just enough old rubber to see what the pattern looked like. They now look great and will look really nice on the car when installed. Note he sprayed the under sides with liquid rubber and matched the old pattern beautifully. Mr Kris Arneson in Alberta, Ca did the fine work. His number is: 403-578-4515 for anyone interested in contacting him. He is a real good guy and it was a pleasure to do business with him throughout the project.

    Addendum: Webpage for Running Boards:
    http://www.runningboardrubber.com/
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  • RL ChiltonRL Chilton
    Posts: 3,458Platinum Member
    Dave-

    Those look beautiful! That's smart coating the underside with the rubberized coating. Now don't forget that you really need to do the inside of the fenders with the same coating, otherwise you will get serious dents from the inside out when tires pick up unwanted pebbles on the road.
  • dave kastelicdave kastelic
    Posts: 264Gold Member
    Thanks Russell
  • Kevin C.Kevin C.
    Posts: 410Platinum Member
    Dave,

    What is the latest on the convertible?

    Kevin C.
  • essexcoupe3131essexcoupe3131
    Posts: 1,219Platinum Member
    superb work, got to be as pleased as punch ;)
    Mike
  • KdancyKdancy
    Posts: 1,062Platinum Member
    Dave, I wish I had known about that place for the running boards when I first started the 37 PU project. The owner had a set form K-gap and we installed them over the running board metal but I am not really happy with the way they turned out. Those you have look much better.
    Also, on the company that did your dash gauges -- is this the one?
    http://www.autoinstruments.com/
  • dave kastelicdave kastelic
    Posts: 264Gold Member
    Been a while since posted anything. Have had a few set-backs with my project. Here are a few pictures showing recent work.
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  • dave kastelicdave kastelic
    Posts: 264Gold Member
    pg 2
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  • dave kastelicdave kastelic
    Posts: 264Gold Member
    pg 3
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  • dave kastelicdave kastelic
    Posts: 264Gold Member
    pg 4
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  • dave kastelicdave kastelic
    Posts: 264Gold Member
    pg 5
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  • dave kastelicdave kastelic
    Posts: 264Gold Member
    pg 6
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  • 46HudsonPU46HudsonPU
    Posts: 5,152Moderator
    Hi Dave - Now I see what you mean. Looks like you've taken quite a lot of it 'back to metal', and doing quite a bit of fabrication and metalwork. A lot of work, but it is taking shape!
  • RL ChiltonRL Chilton
    Posts: 3,458Platinum Member
    Thanks for posting the pictures, Dave. Hope all is well. The car looks beautiful. All your hard work will pay off when it is completed. Can't wait to get that ride!
  • RL ChiltonRL Chilton
    Posts: 3,458Platinum Member
    Forgive me, it's been a while, but, wasn't it all ready painted? Did you have some issues that you had to go back and fix?

    . . . . dumb question. I went back and looked at the posts and now I remember, y'all were doing the upholstery. What's the scoop, Dave?
  • BrowniepetersenBrowniepetersen
    Posts: 2,418Platinum Member
    I need to read these posts more often. Copper and gas-why not to use copper: Copper and Cunifer are not the same. "They Say" not to use pure copper lines in automotive applications because they can become brittle. Brittle leads to cracks, leads to leaks, leads to fires, which are considered A Bad Thing. CuNiFer is an alloy of Copper, Nickle and Iron and is what the English use for brake/fuel applications and is generally considered OK to use. If you trust the English. Along the same lines (gas lines that is) when you use rubber in the gas line be sure to use the new type that are safe with ethenol. That stuff breaks down the rubber and plugs up the line.
    Brownie
  • dave kastelicdave kastelic
    Posts: 264Gold Member
    Russell, did have paint but now all gone. Was not satisfied with the body work and now am back down to the original metal. Had to take out some shoddy workmanship and weld new metal in places. Body will be back off the frame soon. Project has experienced a major set back but believe the end product will be worth the time ( and money ). I promised you a ride quite a while ago and you will get it if you can maintain patience with me. A promise made is but a debt unpaid. Good to hear from you Brownie. Hope all is well with you. The copper lines have all been taken off the car with the recent developments. I do not know what will be put back on the car for gs lines at this point. This will be resolved several months hence. I originally made a decision to take whatever time was necessary to make this restoration top notch from the very beginning, regardless of time. Somehow I allowed the work desire to finish the job over-ride the quality aspect of the job. Believe this situation has been corrected and we are now back on track to getting the job done with quality workmanship now #1. I am just 60 years old and have not run out of money yet, so there is always hope. As always, thanks for the comments.
  • teague144yahoocom
    Posts: 1Hitchhiker

    where did you find the 112 conv? Was it in Bat Cave from Ruff? I sold him the car?
  • dave kastelicdave kastelic
    Posts: 264Gold Member
    Mr Teague, I sent you an E-mail this AM. Please let me know if you did not get it. Since you sold him the car you must remember what it looked like when I bought it. Pretty rough. We are trying to rectify the situation.