ClassicCar

dave kastelic

Thanks for the info guys. The car will not be kept where any sunlight will hit it but I plan to only put the sign on when showing the car. I have two good friends in Hickory that own sign companies. When one of them is given the job I will make sure they use high image material.

dave kastelic

Ol Racer, how about a few pictures of the car/truck from your avatar picture?

dave kastelic

Pictures of the steering column with the shifter installed. Note the green turn signal lights that we added on the dash. The turn signal lever is shown hanging in the pictures. It will be mounted to the bottom of the dash. The lever will be the only part visible and will stick out about three inches. I did not want to mount it to the steering column so we came up with this solution.

DE VERRIER

Hi Dave,
Amazing job you are doing ! My Dad had the same Hudson convertible also the same colour in the south of France. I am joining you some family pictures showing the car that may amuse you.
The last one is a restored one found somewhere in Sweden. I would love to find what ever happened to the one my father owned ! I wonder how many of those were sold in Europe.
Have fun
Axel

dave kastelic

Thank you for posting the pictures Axel. Although the lady in the interior picture blocks out some of the detail this is still one of the best pictures I have seen. I do not know if we can get a finished product that looks as nice as the red car but we are doing our best. I certainly appreciate any pictures of '38 or '39 112's that we can use for cpmparison.

RL Chilton

Dave-

Were the '38 and '39 dashes the same? What other parts were "carry-over" between the years?

dave kastelic

The glove box with the clock inserted seems to be the same in both cars. Same with the panel with the speedometer. The middle section is different in the '39 from my '38. The picture Axel sent of the '39 dash is small so I can not make out all the detail. My center section contains an ash tray, radio, two warning lights and on/off knobs. The wiper knob appears to be in the same place. I did not look over the picture of the red car real good. Here is a picture of the '38 Indy Pace Car that you can use to see what exterior changes ther are between 38 and 39.

RL Chilton

46HudsonPU wrote:

Yup, and you can throw all that 'out the window' with the commercial series...

since there were considerably less, many commercial series got the previous years' parts (dashes, instrumentation, etc..), so as to use it up. My '39 has a basic '38 dashboard - although a friend's identical '39 is not so much identical and was produced later in the year, with a '39 dash...

Can't wait to see your convertible all finished! Too bad I am not closer - but, I would probably be in your workshop getting in our way most of the time.

Most manufacturers were consistent in this regard. Most my experience is with Fords, but commercial vehicles always got the "leftovers", or in Ford's case, '39 commercials used '38 car parts and styling.

As far as the exterior on the Hudson '38 & '39 112's go, I was pretty sure just the grille and surrounding sheetmetal was different. Like the '38's better. '39 grilles look a little funky.

Jon B

I'm curious why you don't want to mount the turn signal switch on the column? Assuming you're using the Step-Down switch, it should be a perfect fit (and Hudson had a combination chrome bracket, I believe, that holds the gearshift lever at "12 o'clock" and the switch at "6 o'clock" around the steering column jacket. In addition, they had a metal raceway that neatly carried the wires from the switch down the column, and a chromed cast fitting that conducted the wires from the bottom of the raceway, up underneath the dash.

The switch itself is so minimal as to be virtually invisible (which is good, 'cause it isn't authentic to 1938). I fitted one to my 1937, and painted the switch, bracket, raceway and wire fitting all black, to match my steering column. They essentially disappear, but to the unknowing they appear "right" for the car.

In addition I drilled a small hole through the steering column jacket (hidden by the t.s. switch) and fastened a hose clamp around the steering shaft. This serves as a canceling cam. So, the turn signal is fully self-canceling.

Possibly you know this and I certainly respect your decision to place the turn signal where you like. But I wanted to make sure that you were aware of this option.

dave kastelic

We considered using a later model Hudson turn signal on the car. If I actually had one at the time we might have went with it. However, once I had the steering coulmn and shifter chromed it became a matter of money. I bought the turn signal (chromed) for $65. If I went with a late model unit I would then have to chrome the switch, bracket and raceway. I also really did not want a bracket attached to the steering column. Just my choice. The lever I am using will not be self cancelling but it will be well within reach of the driver and still be inconspicuous. Not saying this method is better than your method Jon, just different. Io another subject I am still working on the wood header and bowed piece. Will let you know when there is new news. Thanks, Dave

Kevin C.

Dave,

The 112 steering column is .25" smaller in diameter than the senior cars and stepdowns. Don't ask me how I know this.:whistle:

I don't know if your car was fitted with one, but you might to look for an "Auto Poise" for it. That's Hudson's fancy term for an anti-sway bar. They started using them in 39 and they helped the handling of the cars so much that 37 & 38 owners started buying them. So Hudson offered an "authorized" upgrade kit. Several forum members have upgraded their 37's & 38's.

Kevin C.

Kevin C.

HUZZAH!

After much searching I finally found these pics of Dan Firestone's 1939 112.

On the 2nd picture, if you look closely between the trunk lid and the right rear fender you will see the remote pressure valve to check the air pressure in the spare tire. This was an option in 1939.

[attachment=8908]DSCF2513.JPG[/attachment]

[attachment=8904]DSCF2514.JPG[/attachment]

[attachment=8905]DSCF2527.JPG[/attachment]

[attachment=8906]DSCF2529.JPG[/attachment]

[attachment=8907]DSCF2530.JPG[/attachment]

Kevin C.

dave kastelic

We got the driver side windshield and both side windows in yesterday. The passenger side window parts were all with the car but the drivers side window regulator was missing. We found one in a car that is going to be roded but it was not exactly the same. We are working on modifying it to work with my car.
I also got my ivory shifter knob on the car. The one picture shows it a little bit. I will try to get a close up picture that shows it better. I would like to get all my knobs from the guy that did this knob but the cost is really high.

dave kastelic

Four more pictures.

dave kastelic

My car was missing the drivers side window regulator. I found one off a '39 coupe with a vent window. We tried to modify it to work in my car but the new one does not properly move the window up and down. If anyone has one for my '38 please let me know. There is a picture of the passenger side regulator in the below post. The drivers side regulator should look just like this one. Merry Christmas everyone.

DE VERRIER

Hi Dave,
I just saw a brochure for the 112 1938 for sale on e bay with a nice picture of the convertible.. You may be interested to purchase it. See attached
Axel

dave kastelic

Here is a better picture of the shifter knob. The windshield is in. Just starting on the interior fire wall. Both side windows and door handles are now on.

Gary

Awesome work Dave! Following this thread intensely as it provides many tips for when I get moving on my '39 Coupe.

dave kastelic

Headlights with turn signals are installed and burning. Rear license plate light also burning. Turn signal lever bolted to the dash next to the parking brake. Door panels and kick panels also in. Just starting to work on getting the rubber floor mat to relax and fit to the floor.

hudsonsplasher1

Coming together real nice. Will it be ready for some summer driving?

dave kastelic

That will more than likely depend on what happens after we hit the ignition switch. If we get the motor to cooperate it should not take too much longer to complete the rest of our work. Have some touch up work to do on the paint job. Tried to be careful bolting everything into place but still managed to create a few problems that will need to be fixed.

Browniepetersen

Once again Dave, it is looking great! Cannot wait to see it in person.

kamzack

In a word: BEEEAUTEEEFUL

Kim

dave kastelic

Thank you for your comment Kim. The turn signal bulbs fit real nice inside the headlights. The TS lever is visible next to the parking brake in one of the pictures. It is not self cancelling but it does have emergency flashers. The headlights are halogen. The interior panels are made from ABS 4' x 8' x 1/8" plastic sheets. The original panels were also 1/8" so this material fit real nice into the old side trim pieces. Got the panels for about $45. per sheet from a plastic company. Will cover these panels with dark brown leather to finish them out.

dave kastelic

Got the windshied trim on yesterday. The car is going over to a cabinet shop next week to have the wood convertible header made. We had to get the top frame pieces on so he can see how the header fits to the frame and the hardware.

schillaz

Very, Very nice work.

One question, and im not trying to criticize but, i think your horns need to be flip flopped? unless thats how they did it in 38?

Im trying to find some photos but no luck.

dave kastelic

We originally had the horns reversed from where they are now. I have attached a picture showing them like this. Problem was the right hand side horn was almost touching the air cleaner. When we changed them out it eliminated this problem. I could not tell you which way is correct but it appears the way they are now is more functional. Always appreciate any comments provided.

dave kastelic

If I understand the comment correctly I do not believe the question is weather they should be turned upside down. Rather should the left and right side horns be reversed. I do not believe moisture would be a problem either way.

schillaz

I was thinking switch them from left to right, but I dont know what the correct way is for sure so dont do anything yet, im hoping someone will tell us how it goes.

dave kastelic

The car has been at a cabinet shop to have the wooden header made then we shipped it off to have the mufflers and exhaust put on. Have started working on the seats so took a few pictures of this and some misc shots.

Kevin C.

Dave,

The car looks super!:woohoo: Keep the pictures coming.

Kevin C.

walts garage-53 · walts garage-53 February 2011 Posts: 1,488Platinum Member

The cover should be on top. Walt.

hudsontech

It's great to look back thru the posts and watch this project come together. It's a great looking car now - it should be out of this world when it's done. Hope I get to see it somewhere, someday.

Great work well done.

Hudsonly,
Alex Burr
Memphis, TN

dave kastelic

Alex, do you ever get over to Pigeon Forge? I will try to get it there this year. Question for Walt. What cover are you referring to? This is our first Hudson and all attempts to correct any errors we make are appreciated.

hudsontech

dave kastelic wrote:

Alex, do you ever get over to Pigeon Forge? I will try to get it there this year. Question for Walt. What cover are you referring to? This is our first Hudson and all attempts to correct any errors we make are appreciated.

Was going to try and make Pigeon Forge last fall - didn't make it. Am going to try and make it this year. Time will tell. Your convert being there would make it an incentive for sure.

Hudsonly,
Alex Burr
Memphis, TN

dave kastelic

I had plans to go last fall but broke my foot instead. Hoping for better luck this year.

walts garage-53 · walts garage-53 February 2011 Posts: 1,488Platinum Member

Walt here. The horns are bolted the way they should be, but I think you have them reversed, left on right. The horn outlet should be away from the center. Get a picture of one horn front view, and this will tell me if correctly on left side and right side.

reidy377

Hello Dave
I have been watching with great interest the fantastic job you are doing. In reference to your horns I'd like to throw in my two bobs worth.
The covers that Walt is referring to are the round domes with one screw in the middle, which is the top. Now it is obvious that you have a matching pair of horns. On most horns that are paired for tone, just inside the megaphone is stamped or mouldeda " L " or " H " for low and high tone. The spirals underneath go in opposite directions, so when put togeather resonate as one.
It's surprising how many people have two" L ' or two 'H 's even under headlight mounts.
Now, by the photos of the mounted horns on your car, they are back to front, reason being the spirals, should lead into each other to act as one as stated earlier.
You will notice the difference in sound.
Hope this advise helps, keep up the good work, just sitting in the background, looking forward to more photos and the finished product.

reidy377 Rob.

dave kastelic

Walt, Rob and other interested parties. Here are some close ups of the horns I took today. I believe you can see in the one picture that if they were reversed left to right the horn would almost touch the air cleaner. Thoughts appreciated.

walts garage-53 · walts garage-53 March 2011 Posts: 1,488Platinum Member

The way you have mounted is correct for 2 horns, just make sure you have a high and low horn, they are marked on the under side. The 112's came with one horn and the second was an option. The high horn is what came with the car and dealer added the low horn. If correct, they should blast like the Hornets. Walt.

dave kastelic

Thanks Walt. When I get the car back from the cabinet shop (wood header) I will look for the"H" and "L".

dave kastelic

Just got my clock and gauges back from Auto Instruments out of Virginia. Have a couple of before and after pictures. It took a long time to get them back but they really did a nice job.

walts garage-53 · walts garage-53 March 2011 Posts: 1,488Platinum Member

You are going to have one good looking dash. Walt.

dave kastelic

Walt, thank you for your comment and for helping answer my questions from time to time. In case anyone is wondering; the cost to repair, clean and paint the gauges and clock was $815.

hudsontech

dave kastelic wrote:

Walt, thank you for your comment and for helping answer my questions from time to time. In case anyone is wondering; the cost to repair, clean and paint the gauges and clock was $815.

$815 isn't all that bad - if you take two things into consideration; #1 if you were able to find them on ebay in NOS (mint) condition would probably go higher than $800 and #2 try and find them in the first place.

For what it's worth those are beautiful. That is a great job they did for you - worth every penny.

Hudsonly,
Alex Burr
Memphis, TN

dave kastelic

I will get as many new pictures of the progress as I can on this post. Exhaust system is now on the car. I kept the twin exhaust just like the car came to me. Have the wood convertible header finished (except staining)and bolted on. Have the front seat pretty much finished and am starting on the door panels. I took more pictures of the exhaust when the car was on the lift but somehow lost them. Will take some more when I get another chance.

SamJ

I'm very impressed with everything, but the wooden header is extra noteworthy...very, very nice. Thanks for posting. :cheer:

54SuperWasp

It's always a pleasure to come here and have a look at your post Dave. Nice pictures and I like the "before" and "after" theme. Very nice job everywhere. Michel.

dave kastelic

Thanks Sam and Michael for your comments. I would post the name of the guy that did the header but I doubt he wants me publicize the info. Said he is not interested in making another header for any price let alone what we agreed upon.

Kevin C.

Dave,

Absolutely super! Keep the pictures coming.

Kevin C.

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