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The 1930 Essex Coupe restoration thread
  • TwinHTwinH
    Posts: 535Platinum Member
    A new thread to document the trials and tribulations of fixing up this coupe

    that followed me home.http://classiccar.com/index.php?option=com_jfusion&Itemid=62&jfile=showthread.php&p=122002#post122002



    Thanks guys! I'm going to start a new thread for wants/needs, info,

    moral support,etc while I wade through restoration of this neat old

    30 Essex coupe. All here can share the blame/credit for infecting me

    with this Hudson bug. As a lifelong Chevy guy that hot rodded almost

    everything I got my hands on,this is a pretty big step for me. I have

    a fairly substantial mechanical background including an A&P ticket and

    have been through splasher motors before.What I'm really lacking is

    the Hudson specific knowledge that members of this community have

    coming out their ears. I look forward to mining this knowledge to make

    this coupe the best that it can be. Thanks for the help, Jeff Lynn
  • TwinHTwinH
    Posts: 535Platinum Member
    First order of business on this project is to get some fire in the holes. Since

    the time I first looked at this and took delivery the previous owner removed

    the non stock(Tillotson JR5A) updraft carb and cut the intake elbow and

    rotated it 180* so he could use a downdraft carb. Now I am looking for an

    intake manifold elbow and either a stock Marvel V-10-780 or any ideas for

    a stock appearing replacement. In the meantime I'll busy myself with

    compression and leakdown tests to verify condition and check the ignition

    timing and chain backlash. Thanks for any tips or leads. Jeff Lynn
  • essexcoupe3131essexcoupe3131
    Posts: 1,216Platinum Member
    Looks like you have a deluxe coupe, a very good score,

    and very complete

    I will have to sell you a mascot to go on her

    Mike
  • TwinHTwinH
    Posts: 535Platinum Member
    Mike,this mascot you speak of,got any pics?
  • TwinHTwinH
    Posts: 535Platinum Member
    Well I'm a month into this now and starting to get situated. I've found

    that the engine in it is a 29 model and I purchased a 31 motor/trans

    last week with a good carb/intake. My brother picked up the 31 and pulled

    the carb,intake,accessory drive housing,and exhaust manifold and shipped

    down here leaving the rest in Ohio. I knew the exhaust manifold was

    different(clamp-on 29-vs.-bolt on 31) but thought maybe the rest would

    swap. WRONG, the intake elbow on the 31 has a wider bolt pattern where

    it bolts to the block and a much larger "D"shaped intake port. The 29

    intake elbow that the PO destroyed has a small round port as does the

    29 block:(. Also the accessory drive housings are different as are the oil pumps,

    although the 31 came with the correct dizzy(the 29 had a Chrysler-Autolite

    dizzy that was functional)

    The intake mismatch throws a wrench in my plans for trying to get the 29

    engine running,unless I can find a 29 intake elbow to continue. I did take

    the advice given here and dropped the pan to find all kinds of sludge

    hiding there. The cylinder bores look decent from the bottom but the rings

    must be stuck in the pistons. Cranking compression averages about 50 psi

    dry and 70-80 with squirting oil in the cyls. Leakdown showed an average

    20/80 with no leakage past valves. All of it going past rings.Oiling the cylinders showed no or very low leakdown for the first couple seconds

    till the air blew all the oil past the rings then they went back down to

    around 20/80.

    The carb that came with the 31 engine looks great! All linkages on the

    carb and heat control are free and no sign of pot metal deterioration.

    Has a clear handmade lexan cover on the float bowl that is kind of

    strange but very well done.

    I haven't pulled any rod caps off the 29 engine in the car but although

    they seem decent on the rod journals at least 2 of the have .040"or

    more side clearance,so it seems I have issues there too. The light springs

    inside the oil pump on the 29 were corroded into pieces which is really

    no surprise after seeing the condition of the oil and the fact that they

    are such small diameter wire. I can likely come up with something to work,

    but holler if you know any sources.



    All thoughts or opinions are welcome.







    Sludge in the pan...

    005-1.jpg



    Heat control/carb off 31 engine after a little cleaning...

    011-2.jpg

    013-1.jpg



    31 carb Anybody know how to determine what model of Marvel carb this is?

    007-3.jpg
  • TwinHTwinH
    Posts: 535Platinum Member
    Continued...





    010-2.jpg

    009-2.jpg



    Here's why I can't swap the 31 heat control/intake elbow onto the 29 block

    019.jpg



    Here's the accessory drive housing off the 29 engine. You can see whats

    left of the oil pump small springs just above the housing. What do you

    splasher guys do for oil pump parts??

    016.jpg



    Here's the housing off the 31 engine that I haven't got into yet. The

    housing and oil pump are different from the 29. Also dizzy retention

    is different. I don't know how this is going to shake out yet.

    014-1.jpg
  • ESSX28-1ESSX28-1
    Posts: 994Platinum Member
    I can probably help with oil pump spring if you can't find one closer than New Zealand!
    Dave Y
    New Zealand
  • essexcoupe3131essexcoupe3131
    Posts: 1,216Platinum Member
    TwinH wrote:
    Mike,this mascot you speak of,got any pics?



    Like this 1 its a 30-31 Essex _Hudson, the Hudson 1 is slightly longer but most people dont know the difference

    Mike
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  • Oldcar_MechanicOldcar_Mechanic
    Posts: 1,786Platinum Member
    TwinH,



    An interesting thread for sure. I enjoy seeing this kind of stuff.



    I'm not all that up on these early Essex cars but hope to learn some things.



    1) Are the 29 / 30 / and 31 engine all that different from one another that you can't swap many things?



    2) What the heck is a "Dizzy" ????????



    Keep up the good work and educating some of us.

    Ron
  • Rarerodder
    Posts: 148Expert Adviser
    Here's some info that I hope helps with the Marvel carb:



    1929 Essex: Carb Assy. #10-733 Bowl Assy #: 65-588

    1930 Essex: Carb Assy. #10-780 Bowl Assy #: 65-618

    1931 Essex: Carb Assy. #10-946 Bowl Assy #: 65-631



    From my 1925-1933 Marvel Chart.



    Rick
  • essexcoupe3131essexcoupe3131
    Posts: 1,216Platinum Member
    Oldcar_Mechanic wrote:
    TwinH,



    An interesting thread for sure. I enjoy seeing this kind of stuff.



    I'm not all that up on these early Essex cars but hope to learn some things.



    1) Are the 29 / 30 / and 31 engine all that different from one another that you can't swap many things?



    2) What the heck is a "Dizzy" ????????



    Keep up the good work and educating some of us.

    Ron



    The dizzy is the distributor



    Mike



    Mike
  • Spencer YarrowSpencer Yarrow
    Posts: 219Gold Member
    30 Essex in OZ doesn't have a mascot & I don't think U.S. models had one either.

    new oil pump springs are available in OZ. e.mail Phil Haxby hetrules@yahoo.com.au or pphilha@tpg.com.au He is away till 15 th May but may be worth a try.They cost $10 AUS. plus shipping.



    I have an inlet manifold available you can have for the cost of shipping but I think you should be able to get one closer to home,let me know if you need it.
  • awca12a
    Posts: 42Senior Contributor
    I have a spare elbow for the '29 Essex.

    David Weinstein

    erbpartners@gmail.com
  • TwinHTwinH
    Posts: 535Platinum Member
    awca12a wrote:
    I have a spare elbow for the '29 Essex.

    David Weinstein

    erbpartners@gmail.com



    I really appreciate the offer David. I got a 29 elbow and the 31 carb won't

    bolt to it... Just got back from Ohio where I strapped the 31 engine/trans

    on a pallet and sent it down here. Thinking now I'll be using this 31 engine

    instead of the 29. It is supposed to be here tomorrow,so we'll soon see

    how this works out.
  • TwinHTwinH
    Posts: 535Platinum Member
    Engine got here fine and on time. Turns out it is a 1930 and not a 31 as

    advertised.Perfect for the 30 coupe though. Broke it down and got it on

    an engine stand yesterday. You may recall I bought the 30 coupe with a

    29 motor in it sans carburetor and then found issues with the oil pump,

    connecting rods,stuck rings and the fact that the intake elbow from the

    1930 won't swap to the 29.

    The 30 engine seems in better shape EXCEPT for a lot of pitting on the

    rearmost (exh) lobe on the camshaft. Weird as all the other lobes look

    just fine and the affected lobe is OK on the base circle but horribly pitted

    on the opening and closing ramp.:( More fun in store I'm sure as I get farther

    into it.



    Engine arrives,

    012-4.jpg



    013-3.jpg



    Teardown, note that the transmission tried to go all "Deepwater Horizon"

    on me...



    058.jpg



    Abundance of mice/squirrel food in the water jackets...



    047.jpg





    cont...
  • TwinHTwinH
    Posts: 535Platinum Member
    Finally,on the stand...



    059.jpg





    Stay tuned! Jeff Lynn
  • stev1955stev1955
    Posts: 118Expert Adviser
    Thanks for the update. I'm following this closely.
    Steve
    1930 Essex Super Six
  • stev1955stev1955
    Posts: 118Expert Adviser
    Hey TwinH, does that engine bolt up to a normal engine stand?
    Steve
    1930 Essex Super Six
  • TwinHTwinH
    Posts: 535Platinum Member
    Good question Steve. The answer is yes, but not without a lot of head scratching. I'll try and post up a pic tonight. Jeff
  • stev1955stev1955
    Posts: 118Expert Adviser
    Thanks Jeff.
    Steve
    1930 Essex Super Six
  • TwinHTwinH
    Posts: 535Platinum Member
    Here you go Steve,pretty tight around the crankshaft flange but it does fit

    OK. Question,does the gray/green color in this pic look like the original color?

    Getting ahead of myself,but who sells engine paint for Essex engines? Is it

    the same as Hudson? I just haven't looked around yet,but figure there will

    be knowledge here.



    002-6.jpg



    001-4.jpg



    Off with the head! Had this actually ran I'm guessing it would have been on

    the warm side. Who knows how much ditch water has gone through here

    over the years. See that third water port?



    006-4.jpg



    Its a golf tee...



    008-4.jpg



    This extra hardware came out of the hose end of the water manifold.



    009-4.jpg





    cont...
  • stev1955stev1955
    Posts: 118Expert Adviser
    Thanks Jeff. That's an amazing amount of stuff in the water passages. How the heck did a golf tee get in there I wonder? Who knows after 80 years.
    Steve
    1930 Essex Super Six
  • TwinHTwinH
    Posts: 535Platinum Member
    The cylinder head nuts all came off quite easily with the impact gun and the

    air turned down to 40psi. Wish I could say the same for the studs but I'm

    sure I'll spend much more time on them. I've had luck before heating up the

    cast and using candle wax to wick down into the threads. What is everybody

    else's preferred method for removing studs that go into a water jacket?



    010-4.jpg



    011-5.jpg



    013-4.jpg



    All is going well,no ridge in the cylinders to speak off,THEN, I see this in the

    #1 cylinder on the valve side... aargh,what the heck? Don't know what

    caused this yet but would be interested in opinions. I'll pop the piston out

    tomorrow and share the results. Interestingly there are no marks, grooves

    etc below this. Hhhmmm.



    017-2.jpg



    014-4.jpg
  • Spencer YarrowSpencer Yarrow
    Posts: 219Gold Member
    Twin-H

    If you are going to reuse the old pistons get them x-rayed for cracks,I did and all of them had cracks around the gudgon pin and most had cracks in the top above the ring.The photo's attached show the gudgon cracks but I don't have photo's of the top.These cracks are not visable to the naked eye.

    Spencer.
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  • ESSX28-1ESSX28-1
    Posts: 994Platinum Member
    Lester Harris of Minden Nevada has NOS pistons for the Essex - cast iron not ali. He's in the roster. Good prices & a helpful guy.
    Dave Y
    New Zealand
  • Spencer YarrowSpencer Yarrow
    Posts: 219Gold Member
    Pistons from a Caterpillar Pilot engine are the same size and are alli. They go straight in but only have 2 compression rings and 1 oil ring above the gudgon. I have had these pistons in my car for about 8 years without any problems.The price here in AUS. was cheaper than new Essex pistons. The advantage with these pistons is there is a lot more distance from the top of the top ring to the top of the piston, if you put the two side by side you will see the advantage.



    Spencer.
  • Geoff C., N.Z.Geoff C., N.Z.
    Posts: 2,267Platinum Member
    Don't use cast iron p0istons, they make the engine sluggish and harsh because of the extra weight, as they up set the orginal balancing.
    If you're stuck in a hole, stop digging.
  • TwinHTwinH
    Posts: 535Platinum Member
    Spencer Yarrow wrote:
    Twin-H

    If you are going to reuse the old pistons get them x-rayed for cracks,I did and all of them had cracks around the gudgon pin and most had cracks in the top above the ring.The photo's attached show the gudgon cracks but I don't have photo's of the top.These cracks are not visable to the naked eye.

    Spencer.









    Gee Spencer,your just full of good news. I have only looked the #1 piston

    over well and can almost see at least one of the cracks you speak of. I'll dig out

    some old dye penetrant inspection spray bombs that I haven't seen in 20 yrs.

    and see if they will show the cracks. I will definitely check into the Caterpillar

    "pony motor" pistons too that sounds like a great alternative. I really wouldn't

    be interested in iron pistons but I still appreciate the tip. I think you'd have a

    hard time balancing a much heavier piston with the crankshaft.



    No pics yet but the crank and rod/pistons are out and #1 piston shows no

    damage that could cause the Oklahoma shaped gouge in the #1 cylinder

    wall. I'm really starting to believe that the gouge may be a boring bar

    accident from when this engine was built 80 yrs. ago. If thats the case

    its hard to believe the rings are still in one piece and harder to believe

    that they would have actually sent it on down the line knowing that it

    had such an obvious defect.:confused:



    Thanks to all for helping bring this 80 year old piece back to life. Jeff Lynn
  • kool30hudson
    Posts: 22Greasemonkey
    put that motor and head into a molasses bath, will come out looking like new.



    55 gallon drum, 5 gallons of molasses from a feed store & water. let the motor soak for about 2 week. rinse and coat the motor so it doesn't flash rust.



    this will work on any cast parts you want to clean.







    KH
  • TwinHTwinH
    Posts: 535Platinum Member
    I'd love it to be much cleaner already and have heard of the mollasses bath

    but I'd be afraid of ruining the Babbitt on the mains.
  • TwinHTwinH
    Posts: 535Platinum Member
    Anybody have a special recipe or procedure for degreasing the block

    without destroying the babbit?

    010-6.jpg



    The 29 engine/trans came out last weekend.

    007-7.jpg
  • bones1931bones1931
    Posts: 15Hitchhiker
    Saw your 1930 Essex Coupe on several forums. Would be interested in getting some pictures and measurements of the rear wire wheel hub. Have the wire wheels for my 30 Essex Roadster but only one front hub. Any help with this would be appreciated. Your car looks solid. Great restoration thread. Thanks Mike
  • TwinHTwinH
    Posts: 535Platinum Member
    Will try and get some rear hub pics up tonight. Would love to hear more about
    your roadster too.
  • bones1931bones1931
    Posts: 15Hitchhiker
    I first tried to find this car in 1968 but was looking in the wrong location only 5 kms away. Someone else located the car and bought it in 1969. I lost track of the car until 2006 when I happen to drive an older gentleman in my 31 Essex Sedan and he told me about his friend who owned a 30 Essex Roadster. He said he would check and see if it was ok for him to take me to see the car. The farmer who owned the Roadster was storing it in his barn for the last 35 years and it hadn't been registered for the road since 1981. It turned out to be the car I was looking for in 1968. I was able to purchase the car in April of 2010. I have the complete history of the car and a picture of the orginal owner with the car. (Having trouble posting pictures) Looking forward to viewing the rear hub pics. Thanks Mike
  • TwinHTwinH
    Posts: 535Platinum Member
    Here's the pics I took tonight Mike. Let me know what your looking for
    in the way of measurements. My front wheels are one piece drop center rims
    and my rears are split ring Do you know if either of these wheels are original
    to the Essex? Or how to identify an Essex wire wheel?
    Cool story on the roadster. Glad you finally got the chance to own it!

    004-12.jpg

    005-10.jpg

    003-12.jpg
  • bones1931bones1931
    Posts: 15Hitchhiker
    The 30 Essex wire wheels I have are 19" 5 bolt pattern. I have one front hub and no rears. I am thinking that the rear should be 5 bolts as well. Are your front wheels 5 bolt or 6? The rims I have are not split ring. I cannot get my pictures to attach all I get is a written description on the message when I insert. What is the secret? I have pictures of the wire wheels I can post. Thanks Mike
  • bones1931bones1931
    Posts: 15Hitchhiker
    Jeff thought I should start to source some parts for the Essex. Would be interested in finding out what suppliers you used for the pistons and other engine parts you used to redo your 30 Essex engine. Thanks Mike mwmcdonald@accesswave.ca First time I am able to post a picture in this section of my car with the wire wheels. Thanks for your help with your pictures of the hubs. Mike
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  • ESSX28-1ESSX28-1
    Posts: 994Platinum Member
    For my 29 Essex motor I got NOS pistons,rings & gudgeon (wrist) pins from
    Lester Harris, 2763 East Valley Road, Minden, Nevada 89423, Great service & prices!!
    Dave Y
    New Zealand