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Any one interested in aluminum valve/tappet covers?
  • GrimGreaserGrimGreaser
    Posts: 541Platinum Member
    I had to pull the manifolds off last weekend due to a busted carb stud, and seeing the filthy state my 308 is currently in I pulled off the valve covers to clean 'em up too. Now I've got plans rolling around in my head about making some finned and/or 'HUDSON' scripted covers out of aluminum. I've got plenty of CAD experience and access to a nice CNC milling machine.



    I'm thinking simple finned cover with a standard PCV/breather grommet hole for the back and a finned/HUDSON cover up front where one has a better chance to see it tucked under those manifolds.



    Who might be interested? I have no idea about price or anything like that right now, just trying to gauge interest. I'll update when I have some drawings made up, too.



    Also, pondering a simple adapter to bolt a regular Chevy/aftermarket waterneck and thermostat in place of the Hudson unit. Simple aluminum plate, bolts to head then waterneck bolts to the plate. Any thoughts on that?
    Six in a row makes it GO!
  • brumac
    Posts: 195Expert Adviser
    Hi Grim Greaser,

    I think that is a great idea and would be interested in the tappet covers if the price isn't out of sight As to the water outlet, I like the shape of the old Hud gooseneck. I use a simple flat plate to almost block off the bypass just like Walt Mordenti suggests and that works fine for me.



    Brucehttp://classicar.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif
  • PaceRacer50PaceRacer50
    Posts: 317Gold Member
    i would be interested in two or three sets of these for the 232-262-308 engines.

    thanks,

    Ralph

    aka: PaceRacer50
  • dougsondougson
    Posts: 601Platinum Member
    Sure, aluminum valve covers would be great! :D
  • MikeWAMikeWA
    Posts: 1,435Platinum Member
    I'd be interested as well- to go with that finned aluminum head that somebody's just GOTTA make. . .oh, and the manifold for 3 Rochester 2 barrels. . . and. . . and. . .



    You can't be too thin, or too rich, or have too much bling on your hot rod. . .
  • GrimGreaserGrimGreaser
    Posts: 541Platinum Member
    Quick Solidworks model. Not dimensioned, not final...



    Valve%20Covers%203.JPG
    Six in a row makes it GO!
  • hornet53hornet53
    Posts: 414Platinum Member
    Put me down for 2 sets if this comes to be. One for the car and one for the future car!



    What are you thinking for gaskets?
    1953 Hornet sedan Twin-H
    Custom front springs, drop-blocks out back, Clifford 6-2 headers exiting out back shotgun style, Pertronix, and Flames!

    1964 Chevy C-10 Longbed, 396/TH400 lowered just enough and \"easy to touch up\" Black paint.

    2003 Ford Crown Victoria Police Interceptor
    Caved in quarter and fender. Bad paint. Non-True-Trac heap. But it's paid for.
  • TwinHTwinH
    Posts: 547Platinum Member
    I'd take a pair. And just to throw out for discussion,how bout a register

    on the back to locate the gasket? Also,I'm not opposed to running a PCV

    setup and like the idea but currently using the road draft tube with the

    Clifford headers. Have you considered any baffling for the PCV port

    (or is there even room)?



    Anybody running a PCV with a Twin-H manifold? Where did you plumb

    the vacuum source? Pics would be even better.
  • hornet53hornet53
    Posts: 414Platinum Member
    Are they done yet?
    1953 Hornet sedan Twin-H
    Custom front springs, drop-blocks out back, Clifford 6-2 headers exiting out back shotgun style, Pertronix, and Flames!

    1964 Chevy C-10 Longbed, 396/TH400 lowered just enough and \"easy to touch up\" Black paint.

    2003 Ford Crown Victoria Police Interceptor
    Caved in quarter and fender. Bad paint. Non-True-Trac heap. But it's paid for.
  • GrimGreaserGrimGreaser
    Posts: 541Platinum Member
    What you can't see on the back is the relief to index the cover and gasket onto the engine. Plan to have these use the standard cork/rubber gasket. Though, there's all sorts of interesting gasket material at McMaster.com one could play with.



    I've used these: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-G3413/ on my Chevy and they work pretty good.



    There should be enough meat (plan cutting these from 1/2" plate) on the back to bolt any sort of baffling one would want, even a mount for the draft tube.
    Six in a row makes it GO!
  • brumac
    Posts: 195Expert Adviser
    Those look GREAT. Sign me up for a pair.



    Bruce
  • essexcoupe3131essexcoupe3131
    Posts: 1,224Platinum Member
    all you boys are spoilt for choice, good on ya GRimGreaser for thinking of the community

    Mike
  • bobdriveshudsonbobdriveshudson
    Posts: 582Platinum Member
    Let me know the price, two pair. Thanks, Bob
  • ivanz62
    Posts: 171Expert Adviser
    I would buy several sets, but would want provision for the standard road draft tube. No PCV. Having enough engagement through the gasket into the block is the way to go--you have to do this behind the headers and any alignment help is a good thing!
  • GrimGreaserGrimGreaser
    Posts: 541Platinum Member
    Glad to see folks are interested, I'll do my best to get these going. Figured I could use my fancy degree for something I really enjoy. Not that this requires a whole heck of a lot of engineering, but I sure did spend a lot of money to learn to use SolidWorks...
    Six in a row makes it GO!
  • dougsondougson
    Posts: 601Platinum Member
    dougson wrote:
    Sure, aluminum valve covers would be great! :D



    So please add a pair w/pcv.
  • RayRay
    Posts: 588Platinum Member
    Not yet finished with '52 Hornet and don't know if I'll attempt to restore '56 Twin-H Powered Hornet, but just in case I do, depending on price I may buy to keep on shelve?



    Thanks,



    Ray
  • DaveFuryDaveFury
    Posts: 642Platinum Member
    I'd be interested in a set if they are reasonable.
    Dave W.

    What's life without a Hudson?
  • GrimGreaserGrimGreaser
    Posts: 541Platinum Member
    Updated design:



    Valve%20Covers%205.JPG
    Six in a row makes it GO!
  • ivanz62
    Posts: 171Expert Adviser
    I prefer the original design myself!



    Please keep in mind that the original steel parts often were bent by over tightening and didn't seal well as a result. Make 'em thick enough where it counts. The original design looks like it might get more stiffness from the ribs, but I'd buy either style.



    Thanks--Ivan
  • GrimGreaserGrimGreaser
    Posts: 541Platinum Member
    I know what you mean, but the previous design was done up from memory. 3 x 9 was what i started with, but the covers are actually ~3.5 x 13.5. Having the bolt holes in the 'U' and 'O' might still work, have to play with it. I switched because it was a pain to set up the letters that way. I considered sqeezing the HUDSON in between, but to keep the cut time (and thus price) down the letters need to be nice and big to be able to use larger cutters. Don't worry about thickness, these will be cut from 1/2" plate.



    Nothings final yet. :)
    Six in a row makes it GO!
  • GrimGreaserGrimGreaser
    Posts: 541Platinum Member
    Hud%20Valve%20Cover%20Script%202.JPG



    I like this much better. The fins are trimmed down 1/16 of an inch to reveal the letters.



    Here's a view of the back, 1/4 inch relief to hold gasket and align the cover with the engine:



    Hud%20Valve%20Cover%20Back.JPG
    Six in a row makes it GO!
  • hornet53hornet53
    Posts: 414Platinum Member
    Any further progress?
    1953 Hornet sedan Twin-H
    Custom front springs, drop-blocks out back, Clifford 6-2 headers exiting out back shotgun style, Pertronix, and Flames!

    1964 Chevy C-10 Longbed, 396/TH400 lowered just enough and \"easy to touch up\" Black paint.

    2003 Ford Crown Victoria Police Interceptor
    Caved in quarter and fender. Bad paint. Non-True-Trac heap. But it's paid for.
  • GrimGreaserGrimGreaser
    Posts: 541Platinum Member
    The gears are turning... I'm waiting for my buddy to get back from business travel and to free up some time on his companies CNC. Plan is to cut some test covers, see how long and involved they actually are to cut out. From there refine the design again and come up with prices. Then I'll start queuing up orders in the order folks expressed interest here, if they're still interested.



    That said, many of you guys have said 'reasonable price' here. Well, what do you guys see as a reasonable price? Keep in mind, these will be time and toolbit intensive (at least for the 'HUDSON' cover). Anodizing (red, black, clear) may be available, but I don't want to get ahead of myself here.
    Six in a row makes it GO!
  • essexcoupe3131essexcoupe3131
    Posts: 1,224Platinum Member
    Hi grimgreaser, Some good solid carbide cutters and fluid will make easy meat of the Ali

    1 jig and you got it for as many as you want, I would have done a bit more of this sort of stuff but my CNC doesn't have fluid running with it, was made for wood instead of metal and as you now it makes a lot of mess,I spent too much time cleaning up last time

    Mike
  • GrimGreaserGrimGreaser
    Posts: 541Platinum Member
    Believe me, my friend knows how to make his CNC cut damn fast, and more than 90% of the cutting is with at least a 1/4 inch tool. It's the 1/8 and 1/16 inch cuts, while minimal, that slow everything down. However, until we actually cut some out I want to remain mute on price.
    Six in a row makes it GO!
  • faustmbfaustmb
    Posts: 1,116Platinum Member
    Those are sweet !
  • GrimGreaserGrimGreaser
    Posts: 541Platinum Member
    The one with the PCV/breather hole has been cut. The one with letters should be cut Tuesday.
    Image_00188_127894836355399.jpg
    1131 x 848 - 84K
    Image_00187_127894698555399.jpg
    1105 x 829 - 83K
    Six in a row makes it GO!
  • brumac
    Posts: 195Expert Adviser
    OH MY, that sure does look lovely !!!!
  • ski4life65ski4life65
    Posts: 627Platinum Member
    WOW! I like it.
  • bigboy308
    Posts: 117Expert Adviser
    Lookin' GOOD!!



    Put me down for a finished set----



    THANX!
  • bobdriveshudsonbobdriveshudson
    Posts: 582Platinum Member
    Still very interested. Give us a ball park, hi/lo figure. Thanks, Bob
  • super651
    Posts: 519Platinum Member
    Grim, Please put a set down for me for my Turbocharged 262 in the 46.

    Hudsonly Rudy Bennett
  • 46HudsonPU46HudsonPU
    Posts: 4,287Moderator
    Hmmm... A set for my 232, please!

    After you get settled, think about making some for the 175 & 212 'splasher' engines...
  • DaveFuryDaveFury
    Posts: 642Platinum Member
    AWESOME!!! When are they gonna be avaialble for retail sales?
    Dave W.

    What's life without a Hudson?
  • GrimGreaserGrimGreaser
    Posts: 541Platinum Member
    On the engine for comparison. Don't mind the filth...
    Image_00197-sm_127900228955399.JPG
    640 x 480 - 56K
    Six in a row makes it GO!
  • MikeWAMikeWA
    Posts: 1,435Platinum Member
    Just an idea, because I know we're a bunch of cheapskates- How about two versions- one with HUDSON on the front cover, and one just the same as the rear, without the breather? Would be less money, and might bring it down to a more acceptable price for the more Scottish among us.
  • hudsonguyhudsonguy
    Posts: 754Platinum Member
    I'm sure GG will chime in, but all a third cover would do is take slightly less time on the CNC, and require keeping track of three rather than two different designs. Same amount of stock material, etc., so I doubt it would change the total cost much. But I guess, this isn't my business, or call.



    What I was wondering is what will the lack of internal baffling do (or not do)? I'm sure those Hudson engineers had a reason for each internal surface, which would not be included in the above billet cover. Just curious if anyone has any ideas on this?
  • Hudson308Hudson308
    Posts: 1,405Platinum Member
    hudsonguy wrote:
    What I was wondering is what will the lack of internal baffling do (or not do)? I'm sure those Hudson engineers had a reason for each internal surface, which would not be included in the above billet cover. Just curious if anyone has any ideas on this?



    There are a number of baffle solutions available from speed parts suppliers such as Jegs or Summit, Doug. Although designed for installation on the inside of OHV valve covers, one of them should work for these tappet covers.



    http://www.jegs.com/i/Moroso/710/68790/10002/-1



    http://www.jegs.com/i/Billet-Specialties/135/RP956034/10002/-1?parentProductId=1140100



    http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/50128/10002/-1?parentProductId=1173110



    Interested to know what the "Good Guy Greaser" price will be on the covers! :D
    Workin Stiff
  • Jim KildayJim Kilday
    Posts: 207Gold Member
    Bring on the covers for the splasher engines.
  • GrimGreaserGrimGreaser
    Posts: 541Platinum Member
    Alright, got the 'Hudson' cover cut, as you can see below.



    Now, about pricing... Looks like for a pair of plain covers, one with a breather hole and one without it'll be $650-700 with at least 12 orders. The 'Hudson' cover itself will be around $600, again with at least 12 orders. The plain covers take about 30-40 minutes to cut, the 'Hudson' cover took close to 3 hours. Just to give you an idea about the machine time and the price difference. Now, if I haven't scared too many of you off, let me know if you're still interested, either here or through private messages.



    I will be gone on a fishing trip from this Saturday thru the 24-25th, so details, and firm pricing, will be worked out after that.



    Seeing how much the Hudson cover is, and also considering Chrysler getting a bug in their ass about using 'Hudson', I've also made a cover with simply '308' and '262'. I just made these yesterday, I don't have a price, but it will be less than the full 'Hudson' cover.



    If folks want other covers, I will need a physical example to take measurements from. But first, we'll see how all this works out.
    Image_00200_127937471955399.jpg
    1127 x 845 - 82K
    HudCover 308_127935176955399.jpg
    1035 x 455 - 59K
    Six in a row makes it GO!
  • ivanz62
    Posts: 171Expert Adviser
    As one interested in having these for function--improved sealing and ease of access to check valve clearance more often than a road car--I don't need to have it say "Hudson" or anything else on the covers. I think you should investigate the cost of a larger production--maybe 100 pairs--without the extended machine time and see what you could offer. $600-700 is supposed to buy a cylinder head!
  • GrimGreaserGrimGreaser
    Posts: 541Platinum Member
    I certainly understand the sticker shock, that's why I held off on a naming a price and asked what folks thought they would be willing to pay. But for the time being unless there is a HUGE demand, this is going to be a small time operation. I'm not looking to gouge, but I would like to get a little profit here and make it worth it to my friend. I think these turned out pretty slick. And like I said, after I get back I'll see what I can do and have a firmer price.



    But you raise a good point Ivan, I'll see what a simple no frills, flat plate tappet cover will run.



    In the meantime, the more interest, the better the price gets. If your looking for simply function, let me know guys. The simpler covers will certainly be cheaper. Get 'em anodized and they'll still be really nice.
    Six in a row makes it GO!