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Door Hinge Pins - Removal & Replacement (?)...
  • 46HudsonPU46HudsonPU
    Posts: 5,152Moderator
    I recently had some fun attempting to remove some doors from a 1938 Hudson parts car. The hinge pins were not cooperative, and the doors had to come off the car on that day, so lathering them with penetrating fluid and giving it a while wasn't an option. Hammered away with a BFH over two hours, and only got 1 of 4 loose - Ended up cutting the hinges close to the body to get the doors off...

    I'll soon be going through the same thing to get these doors onto my '39 PU, so -

    Looked online (eBay, Amazon, Eastwood), and they have a 'door hinge pin puller'. See picture below -

    p8044.jpg

    Anyone have experience using something like this tool? Is it useful, or a waste of money? Any other suggestions or recommendations for tools or removal?

    Does anyone have some NOS door hinge pins? If not, does anyone make replacements? Any suggestions or recommendations for replacement/replacing door hinge pins?
  • BrowniepetersenBrowniepetersen
    Posts: 2,421Platinum Member
    I made one much like it to take the pins out of my 38 parts car. I also used a grinder to flatten the top area and had a pin inset so I could hit it with a hammer. It worked well. One I heated up with a torch before I hammered it out.
    Brownie
  • Uncle JoshUncle Josh
    Posts: 1,860Platinum Member
    I got bolts from the hardware store and used them as pins.
  • 46HudsonPU46HudsonPU
    Posts: 5,152Moderator
    Uncle Josh wrote:
    I got bolts from the hardware store and used them as pins.
    Uncle Josh -
    What size bolts? What grade?
  • RL ChiltonRL Chilton
    Posts: 3,458Platinum Member
    Rick-

    If you can get one out in good shape, we can machine new ones for you.
  • Uncle JoshUncle Josh
    Posts: 1,860Platinum Member
    The size of the hole. Har Har



    Get grade 8, they're not that expensive
  • 46HudsonPU46HudsonPU
    Posts: 5,152Moderator
    Uncle Josh wrote:
    The size of the hole. Har Har

    Get grade 8, they're not that expensive
    Ouch! That one was so bad, it hurt! LOL!
    Seriously, I was figuring grade 8, unless there was/is a reason not to...

    RL Chilton wrote:
    Rick-

    If you can get one out in good shape, we can machine new ones for you.
    Ok Russell - I'll work on that... I got one out of the '38 I got the doors off of, I think I might have it - will need to look around and see if I kept it, and if so, is it still in decent shape...

    General questions:
    - Are the Hudson hinge pins different sizes (length/diameter), depending on the year or model of vehicle?
    - Don't know if there is much of a calling/market for them. Could this be something to add to a supplier's inventory of remanufactured parts?
    - Aren't the top of the pins knurled, just below the head? (to hold the hinge pin in the door part of the hinge)
  • Chipmaker
    Posts: 24Greasemonkey
    Check your pin holes for over size and egg shape before getting new pins.

    Thay may need to be drilled out to a larger size,and a over size pin made.
  • Geoff C., N.Z.Geoff C., N.Z.
    Posts: 2,270Platinum Member
    It helps to have a weight under the body of the hinge if you are hammering the pins out. Something like an axe head or similar. Cut the top off the pin and drive them downwards. Get someone to hold the weight firmlyin position and use a straight punch and good sized hammer. Most people use too light a hammer, and it just distorts things and makes a mess.
    If you're stuck in a hole, stop digging.
  • Uncle JoshUncle Josh
    Posts: 1,860Platinum Member
    Geoff C., N.Z. wrote:
    It helps to have a weight under the body of the hinge if you are hammering the pins out. Something like an axe head or similar. Cut the top off the pin and drive them downwards. Get someone to hold the weight firmlyin position and use a straight punch and good sized hammer. Most people use too light a hammer, and it just distorts things and makes a mess.



    When I nod my head, you hit it Geoff!
  • Kevin C.Kevin C.
    Posts: 410Platinum Member
    Uncle Josh wrote:
    When I nod my head, you hit it Geoff!



    Which Uncle Josh story did that line come from???:D



    Kevin C.
  • 41 hud
    Posts: 157Expert Adviser
    There was a thread on here some time ago which specializes in door pins. What about roll pins? Heck, they sure aren't going to fall out. Jim
  • RL ChiltonRL Chilton
    Posts: 3,458Platinum Member
    41 hud wrote:
    There was a thread on here some time ago which specializes in door pins. What about roll pins? Heck, they sure aren't going to fall out. Jim

    I wouldn't recommend or use roll pins. One, roll pins come in specific sizes, which may or may not be right for the hole. Of course, the hole could be enlarged to accomodate. Even so, while a properly fit roll pin might not FALL out, it very well could "work" itself out over time, whereas, a headed pin, properly reamed over on the under side, would never relieve itself.

    Also, if the user wants the "correct", original look, a roll pin would not suffice.

    But would a roll pin work? Sure it would.
  • 46HudsonPU46HudsonPU
    Posts: 5,152Moderator
    Geoff C., N.Z. wrote:
    It helps to have a weight under the body of the hinge if you are hammering the pins out. Something like an axe head or similar. Cut the top off the pin and drive them downwards. Get someone to hold the weight firmlyin position and use a straight punch and good sized hammer. Most people use too light a hammer, and it just distorts things and makes a mess.
    FINALLY got around to getting the doors off of my '39. Since I'm tearing the truck apart anyway, I took the running boards off first - gave me more room to swing the hammer for the bottom hinge. Tried to drive them up through from the bottom, but just didn't have any luck with it. Finally gave up on that, ground the heads off the top of the pins and drove them through from the top - Drilled holes into the pins from the top, and put the punch into the drilled hole (punch doesn't jump around) - was able to pound away on the punch with a small sledge hammer, and easily got the pins loose.

    NOW I've got to repeat the process with the doors I got from Dave Kastelic. We had to cut the hinges to get them off his parts car...

    On a side-note: Amazingly, the wooden frame of the truck seat is pretty solid - although I will have a new one made to replace it anyway. Plenty good enough to make a nice template. Floor looks solid underneath that, although it is pretty rusty where it meets the back wall, and the left/right sides behind the doors...