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In this Discussion
- 37 Terraplane#2 January 2010
- cargray January 2010
- Geoff C., N.Z. January 2010
- hudson8 January 2010
- OlHudson8r January 2010
- Park_W January 2010
- rockyc January 2010
'36 Terraplane 212 Connecting Rod
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I'm looking for a connecting rod for my '36 Series 62 (212) and have not been able to find many. I need the one for cylinder #6, with splash rod. The one we took out shows a casting number of 19552.
I thought we had a good replacement last year. The part number was the same, and it looked like the original, except for a few areas where material had to be ground off to get it to go into the cylinder. Thought that was kind of strange - shouldn't the same part number be the same part? Perhaps since the engines were produced so long, later versions were slightly different but kept the same number? Anyway, once we got it installed, it appears to sit 'not quite right', as though it might have a slight twist or something.
Anyway, I've been looking for a while, checked Albright's, Kanter's, and a few other places. Anyone know of a good source?
Thanks,
Rocky -
Have you tried Dale Cooper? Also is it standard or undersize?
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Before installing any replacement rod it should be checked for twist or bend on a proper connecting rod alingnment fixture. Also of course the correct diameter for bearing clearance, though if it is within range this can be adjusted by shims on all models up to 1937 incl. I cannot see why it would not fit down the bore though. Please explain what you mane by "not fitting quite right"
Geoff.If you're stuck in a hole, stop digging. -
The rod needs to be a standard.
I did check with Mr. Cooper, and he had nothing like that in stock.
By 'not right' I mean that it does seem to have a bit of a twist. It's barely perceptible, but it doesn't seem to be straight. We didn't have a fixture on which to check it ourselves, and took the word of the source that it was usable. As for not fitting down the cylinder, we had to grind off a little bit of a high point (maybe 1/8 inch max) and then it went on down.
Thanks,
Rocky -
rockyc wrote:
Hi--- There are left & right hand rods under this same number. I suspect that you have an opposite rod than the one you need, but do not understand what you mean by not going into the cylinder unless trimmed.---Cliff Minard.I'm looking for a connecting rod for my '36 Series 62 (212) and have not been able to find many. I need the one for cylinder #6, with splash rod. The one we took out shows a casting number of 19552.
I thought we had a good replacement last year. The part number was the same, and it looked like the original, except for a few areas where material had to be ground off to get it to go into the cylinder. Thought that was kind of strange - shouldn't the same part number be the same part? Perhaps since the engines were produced so long, later versions were slightly different but kept the same number? Anyway, once we got it installed, it appears to sit 'not quite right', as though it might have a slight twist or something.
Anyway, I've been looking for a while, checked Albright's, Kanter's, and a few other places. Anyone know of a good source?
Thanks,
Rocky -
Rocky, are you looking for one ready to install, or one to re-babbitted and sized to fit? If the latter, I have one. It's an original '36 rod, including the shim packs. #8 from an 8-cyl. engine, which is same as #6 from the six-cyl.
Contact me at 803.327.3929 or hetpwald@comporium.net (remove "het" for actual address). -
Sorry, but you really will have to get the straightness checked, otherwise it will knock, or wear the piston and bore if bent, or both. Even if you get a replacement rod. Where exactly did you have to grind the high spot off? The cap will not through the bore of course, this havs tobe taken off first.
Geoff.If you're stuck in a hole, stop digging. -
Geoff is absolutely right about rod straightening on those splashers. Back in the days when I worked at a garage where we did considerable overhaul work on the splashers, we always checked the rods to see if they were straight. It was very common to find them bent. I also wondered whether the cap and shims were on that rod when it wouldn't go through the cylinder. I would be careful about taking much material off a splasher rod as well, for that could open the door for further troubles. Dee
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The machine shop that did the work for me on my recent '47 8-cyl. engine rebuild said they'd never seen such flimsy rods. I guess the good news is that they straighten pretty easily!
One lesson learned on that job ... before you send the rods to be rebabbited, check the big-end weight and total weight on each, to be sure they're fairly close to one another. I had to toss a re-babbited rod and have another one done because the one was different from the rest. No way to bring them all into close balance. Ouch! -
The rods and pistons go in from the bottom end , don't be grinding them down to put in from the top side ----BIG TIME TROUBLE DOWN THE ROAD !!!---TRY LESTER HARRIS, MINDEN < NEVADA
Phone 775-267-2241. His will be ready to install . BE SURE TO TELL HIM WHAT CYLINDER IT GOES IN , they are not all the same as said above and must have the heavy side the same as the one it replaces, if using used, rebabbited rods not all numbered correctly watch this . Lester is a great guy to do bussiness with , Has rods -mains-rings --- Check your cyl bores for taper and out of round , If your gonna drive this thing you might be better off to yank it out and do a good rebuild on it and if someone HAS ground them down I would deffinatly do a rebuild , replace ALL the rods . --- BUD -
Thanks for all the inputs. Yeah, the material we had to remove was around where the bolts went through. Bottom line is now I'm looking for another replacement. No more grinding.
I'd prefer one ready to install, so I'll check with Lester in NV.
Looks like VAPINC has also come up with a Federal Mogul number of 23N and they have them in stock in std as well as others.
You know, when I bought this car a couple of years back, I kinda had the impression Hudson parts were somewhat abundant, and cheap (compared to parts for my '36 Airflow). And I knew that '36 was sort of a one-of year for Terraplanes in some respects. There's a number of parts commonly available, but then I run into one every so often that's a real bear to find - this connecting rod being one of them. Guess it's all knowing who to contact!
Thanks for the help.
Other parts I'm looking for are both rear stabilizer bars (rear suspension) and a right rear fender.
and of course the ever scarce hood ornament (yeah I know, "Good luck with That".
Rocky -
Rocky , most parts are not that hard to find , and as old cars go cheaper if you come here with your problems , best dang old car bunch there is . You better look at those other rods , at any rate if you want want this thing to last would be best to yank the engine so you can get the crank out , replace them all and put them in right. They go in from the bottom end , not by grinding them off and putting them in from the top , that weakens the cap and it will fail . These engines have they're own little quirks on rebuild so come here and the guys will get you thru it . There are several places to get the needed parts . ---BUD
