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1953 Belair Master Cylinder Removal...
  • BelairBetty
    Posts: 2Hitchhiker
    Hello Folks,



    My son just bought me an old Belair that needs some work. Brakes first, we are trying to pull the master cylinder to rebuild, and can't get it out. Our shop manual claims you remove the assembly (it's frame mounted...buried under the pedal floor) by poking a 'stiff wire' into an unplugged hole on the pedal linkage pivot housing. We guess this should push out a pin of some kind which will free the pivot shaft??? Any better suggestions or insight into the 'stiff wire poking' phenomena? Mucho Gracias.
  • Oldcar_MechanicOldcar_Mechanic
    Posts: 1,786Platinum Member
    My thinking after looking in my shop manual is that the shaft has a spring loaded ball or locking pin of sorts that you will be dis-lodging so that you can remove the clutch and brake pedal pivot shafts. Then you should be able to take the master off. So, a stiff wire would be something like a coat-hanger? While pushing the wire into the hole are you trying to slide the shaft out?



    I'll ask around, but maybe Mike being the Chevy Guru might know.



    Keep us posted at any rate.

    Ron
  • BelairBetty
    Posts: 2Hitchhiker
    Thanks Ron, yes we are trying to slide the shaft out - freeing the linkage assembly to be removed. Since the stiff wire will prevent the shaft from coming out, I hope the spring loaded thing isn't true...otherwise you will relock the shaft everytime you pull back the wire? This may be an obscure operation, as (thank God!) the master cylinders moved up into the engine compartment for easier service soon(?) after the 50's.
  • Oldcar_MechanicOldcar_Mechanic
    Posts: 1,786Platinum Member
    Well, I was thinking that it was like the old ignition switches, where you had to push a wire into the hole and wiggle the switch so it would remove from the body.



    I'm still asking around

    Ron
  • DdeuceMan
    Posts: 11Hitchhiker
    Oldcar_Mechanic wrote:
    Well, I was thinking that it was like the old ignition switches, where you had to push a wire into the hole and wiggle the switch so it would remove from the body.



    I'm still asking around

    Ron



    Yup........My 63 Chev II's Key Switch is like that. Use a PAPER CLIP though.....coat hanger's to thick. But seriously.......would'nt know on that cylinder.
  • Chester
    Posts: 15Hitchhiker
    I looked at that page with the illustration using a wire to release the pedal assembly (Off frame repair!). But in the parts book blowup only shows the bushings, shafts, and lube fitting.
  • blazerswampthing
    Posts: 11Hitchhiker
    I just removed the master cylinder in my 54 and I just unbolted it from the frame (2 bolts), removed the clutch and brake pedal higher up on the fire wall (not fun), removed the tension spring and then removed the brake lines. Then I pulled the master cylinder out of the car. Unless the 2 years are completely different, this should not be that difficult to remove, but not fun either.
  • MRubio
    Posts: 2Hitchhiker
    Hello, I know you posted this over 2 years ago, but I am curious on how you removed the pedal shaft lock pin from the brake booster? I am experiencing the same problem. Thanks.
  • MRubio
    Posts: 2Hitchhiker
    Well, I figured it out..... I got a portable saw, cut the master cylinder, and then a quick hit with a hammer and what do you know.. the pedals came off.
  • Carnut1420
    Posts: 16Hitchhiker
    I feel affection for, standard, stable, and good-looking!





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  • Carnut1420
    Posts: 16Hitchhiker
    I feel affection for, standard, stable, and good-looking! That is cool!! I don't have any work practice with this company before, do you just heard about it or have their services, what is your skill with them.



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  • Carnut1420
    Posts: 16Hitchhiker
    Thanks for this. I was looking for a site like this that compared of the same item at different it . I wonder how accurate it is.





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  • Carnut1420
    Posts: 16Hitchhiker
    I am curious on how you removed the pedal shaft lock pin from the brake booster?



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