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Oil Filter can
  • kamzackkamzack
    Posts: 401Gold Member
    What's the correct color for the Fram cannister on the oil filter assembly.

    Thanks in advance,

    Kim
  • HudzillaHudzilla
    Posts: 1,285Platinum Member
    It's a redish orange( chinese red?) with a black lid.
  • 5433HET5433HET
    Posts: 171Expert Adviser
    I used a handy spray can of Chevrolet Orange Engine Enamel, looks great!
  • BrowniepetersenBrowniepetersen
    Posts: 2,415Platinum Member
    Unless someone was being creative the fram filters were the same on all cars. And, as I recall the decals are also all the same. The sad part is that they are nice looking but not very effective. The filter about 33 percent of the oil in use.
    Brownie
  • RL ChiltonRL Chilton
    Posts: 3,456Platinum Member
    Browniepetersen wrote:
    Unless someone was being creative the fram filters were the same on all cars. And, as I recall the decals are also all the same. The sad part is that they are nice looking but not very effective. The filter about 33 percent of the oil in use.



    I could be wrong on this, Brownie, but as I recall, it doesn't have to do with the filter, it's the way that it is hooked to the system, in that it doesn't actually cycle all of the oil through the filter.
  • RL ChiltonRL Chilton
    Posts: 3,456Platinum Member
    5433HET wrote:
    I used a handy spray can of Chevrolet Orange Engine Enamel, looks great!



    Chevy Orange is almost an exact match to the original. Don't forget the black top, and Paul Schuster has repro stickers for these filters.
  • RodRod
    Posts: 98Senior Contributor
    This is a bypass filter. only a part of the oil goes to the filter on the way to the engine, but it all gets to the filter eventually as the oil is continually being recirculated.
  • kamzackkamzack
    Posts: 401Gold Member
    Thanks guys,

    The Chevy orange is my first choice, but thought I'd ask for opinions anyway. The filter is mostly for comectics. I know it's not a full flow filter,but the car owner asked if it should have a filter. I have a 2 on hand, so I told him I'd clean one up and install it. Gives me a little more work.

    Thanks for your help,

    Kim
  • walts garage-53
    Posts: 1,470Platinum Member
    kamzack wrote:
    What's the correct color for the Fram cannister on the oil filter assembly.

    Thanks in advance,

    Kim
    The Hudson filter is a by-pass unit, when the oil pressure check valve opens, which Hudson set at 35 pounds, then the extra oil is sent to the filter and returns to the crankcase, not to the oil system. If you have low oil pressure under 35 lbs, no oil is reaching the filter. Those that stretch the spring or add washers can stop oil from reaching the filter. Walt.
  • 46HudsonPU46HudsonPU
    Posts: 5,148Moderator
    walt's garage-53 wrote:
    The Hudson filter is a by-pass unit, when the oil pressure check valve opens, which Hudson set at 35 pounds, then the extra oil is sent to the filter and returns to the crankcase, not to the oil system. If you have low oil pressure under 35 lbs, no oil is reaching the filter. Those that stretch the spring or add washers can stop oil from reaching the filter. Walt.
    I am assuming that you are referring to those Hudson engines with pressurized oil systems - The splasher engines don't have more than a few lbs of pressure to begin with.

    Also - Stretching the spring or adding washers would seem to be counter-productive to having a filter - i.e., the filter would never serve its intended purpose...

    What is the normal oil pressure of a 232, 262 or 308? When would oil actually flow through the filter- Just at 'cruise' RPM?
  • RL ChiltonRL Chilton
    Posts: 3,456Platinum Member
    Rick-



    It's lower than most people think, probably 'cause they are used to newer cars or hot V-8's, I guess. Hudson reccommended 35-38 lbs. of pressure at 35mph. Idling Pressure was at 20 lbs.
  • 46HudsonPU46HudsonPU
    Posts: 5,148Moderator
    RL Chilton wrote:
    Rick-

    It's lower than most people think, probably 'cause they are used to newer cars or hot V-8's, I guess. Hudson reccommended 35-38 lbs. of pressure at 35mph. Idling Pressure was at 20 lbs.
    That being the case, then oil just about never goes through the filter, if the bypass won't kick-in until it is above 35 lbs...
    I have a filter kit to install on a pre-stepdown engine, but don't see any bypass with it. I am assuming that it doesn't have one, and that all oil would flow through it. I don't intend to install it, as my concern is that it would impede the oil flow enough to cause friction issues, thereby ruining/destroying the engine...
    I don't see the lack of filters on pre-stepdowns to be an issue, at least in this day and age - My 'Blue Goose' probably goes less than 500 miles before I change the oil anyway! Next time around, I'll most likely 'drop' and clean the pan as well...
  • RL ChiltonRL Chilton
    Posts: 3,456Platinum Member
    46HudsonPU wrote:
    That being the case, then oil just about never goes through the filter, if the bypass won't kick-in until it is above 35 lbs...

    I have a filter kit to install on a pre-stepdown engine, but don't see any bypass with it. I am assuming that it doesn't have one, and that all oil would flow through it. I don't intend to install it, as my concern is that it would impede the oil flow enough to cause friction issues, thereby ruining/destroying the engine...

    I don't see the lack of filters on pre-stepdowns to be an issue, at least in this day and age - My 'Blue Goose' probably goes less than 500 miles before I change the oil anyway! Next time around, I'll most likely 'drop' and clean the pan as well...



    I think dropping the pan would be wise, as a precaution. And, you're doing the right thing: change your oil often and keep it clean! 500 miles might be a little excessive, but it can't hurt, that's for sure.



    As far as lack of oil filters on pre-stepdowns, I personally try not to "out-engineer" Hudson engineers. Even though their engineering was decades ago, they still know (knew?) more than I do. If it all goes back, the same way it was when it was new, why re-invent the wheel?



    If you think about it, running a Hudson down the road in 2009 as compared to running it down the road just post-war, the only differences are: slightly different oil composition, slightly different gas composition and slightly dirtier ambient air. For the most part, the technology that served post-war vehicles still serves that same vehicle today.



    I'm constantly impressed with Hudson engineering, and while I spend a good amount of time understanding the rationale, I do my best to not interfere with it, as much as reasonably possible.
  • 46HudsonPU46HudsonPU
    Posts: 5,148Moderator
    Russell - Yup, I'm in total agreement - Well, almost... Imagine yourself running down a dirt road in middle America (where ever that is :confused: ), about 1946-1950. All that dust, dirt, etc., didn't make for a cleaner environment - at least for the engine. Our Hudsons are a bit better off now than they were then, as most not only don't see dirt roads, many don't even see the rain too often...
    BTW - I don't even do 500 or so miles are every year, so the oil doesn't get changed that often!
  • walts garage-53
    Posts: 1,470Platinum Member
    46HudsonPU wrote:
    I am assuming that you are referring to those Hudson engines with pressurized oil systems - The splasher engines don't have more than a few lbs of pressure to begin with.

    Also - Stretching the spring or adding washers would seem to be counter-productive to having a filter - i.e., the filter would never serve its intended purpose...

    What is the normal oil pressure of a 232, 262 or 308? When would oil actually flow through the filter- Just at 'cruise' RPM?
    He stated his engine is a 232 so that's oil pressure. As I stated above, Hudson pressure engines is 35 pounds at 35 miles per hour. Read the manual, Walt.
  • ESSX28-1ESSX28-1
    Posts: 995Platinum Member
    RL Chilton wrote:

    If you think about it, running a Hudson down the road in 2009 as compared to running it down the road just post-war, the only differences are: slightly different oil composition, slightly different gas composition and slightly dirtier ambient air. For the most part, the technology that served post-war vehicles still serves that same vehicle today.



    Is not the main difference the higher speeds we expect to be able to maintain for a long time on the now 'better" roads!!!
    Dave Y
    New Zealand
  • RL ChiltonRL Chilton
    Posts: 3,456Platinum Member
    ESSX28-1 wrote:
    Is not the main difference the higher speeds we expect to be able to maintain for a long time on the now 'better" roads!!!



    Dave-



    I suppose that would depend upon what roads you are traveling on these days. I don't know what the roads are like in NZ, but here in the states, aside from the freeways, many of the state and US highways are basically unchanged from what they used to be. But you are right, our world moves so fast these days, people expect to drive as fast as they run their lives.
  • onerare39onerare39
    Posts: 526Hitchhiker
    kamzack wrote:
    What's the correct color for the Fram cannister on the oil filter assembly.

    Thanks in advance,

    Kim



    I tried a few different colors and found that Kubota Tractor Orange was a great match for Fram, it is just a tad bit of a burnt orange color to it. This picture is a little bright because of the flash but in natural light it's a perfect match for Fram. I got the decals from K-Gap.
    Oil Filter 001 (Small)_12505509371008411.jpg
    360 x 480 - 33K
  • RL ChiltonRL Chilton
    Posts: 3,456Platinum Member
    onerare39-



    I'm going to go write that down, right now.
  • walts garage-53
    Posts: 1,470Platinum Member
    46HudsonPU wrote:
    That being the case, then oil just about never goes through the filter, if the bypass won't kick-in until it is above 35 lbs...
    I have a filter kit to install on a pre-stepdown engine, but don't see any bypass with it. I am assuming that it doesn't have one, and that all oil would flow through it. I don't intend to install it, as my concern is that it would impede the oil flow enough to cause friction issues, thereby ruining/destroying the engine...
    I don't see the lack of filters on pre-stepdowns to be an issue, at least in this day and age - My 'Blue Goose' probably goes less than 500 miles before I change the oil anyway! Next time around, I'll most likely 'drop' and clean the pan as well...
    Oil pressure is measured with a hot engine. Hudson needs only 35 pounds at any speed above 35. Idle pressure will drop to 20, and if it goes lower you better check your bearings or oil pump. If you drag or run oval tracks, yes you need more pressure. Walt.
  • Billy K.TN.
    Posts: 396Platinum Member
    There is a picture page 3-12 figure 10 in the 51 Mechanical procedure manual that shows the oil passage from sump back to sump showing the pressure relief valve. Notice how the passages are drilled. When the valve is lifted of the seat the oil is sent to the filter. As pressure incresses the oil that the filter will handle still goes to it. Check out a Hudson filter and you will find a small hole drilled in the stand pipe that the bolt goes in to hold the cap on. Never measured the hole but it may be about 3/32 so thats all the oil going thrue the filter.
  • onerare39onerare39
    Posts: 526Hitchhiker
    When I was preparing to start my engine for the first time after a complete rebuild, I disconnected the coil wire and turned the engine over with the starter motor to make sure I had oil pressure. I checked the oil filter and found the canister completely filled with oil before it ever fired off.



    John