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In this Discussion
- 46HudsonPU June 2012
- 51hornetA June 2009
- bobdriveshudson June 2009
- Browniepetersen May 2009
- Chuck G May 2009
- hudsonguy May 2009
- hudsontech May 2009
- Ken U-Tx June 2012
- Lee ODell May 2009
- ralpie May 2009
- Richie May 2009
- RL Chilton June 2009
- royer June 2009
- Ted W June 2009
- tomb009 May 2009
- wkitchens June 2009
Tumbling Parts
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The Eastwood Company has been kind enough to create a webpage, documenting the work I'm doing to my '48. Even though I'm modifying it, I'm posting the link here, because I'm really impressed with the results I've been getting from tumbling my parts. Rusty bolts turn out like new. I was really amazed as to the before and after of the headlight terminal block. I wish they had a tumbler I could just put the whole car in.
http://eastwood.squarespace.com/wesleys-hudson/ -
Just spent a few moments reading thru the Eastwood site. You're doing a great job on the old girl, Wes (the car, not the wife!!! LOL)
I really should get in touch with you and make a trip over to see your progress.
Hudsonly,
Alex Burr
Memphis, TN -
wkitchens wrote:The Eastwood Company has been kind enough to create a webpage, documenting the work I'm doing to my '48. Even though I'm modifying it, I'm posting the link here, because I'm really impressed with the results I've been getting from tumbling my parts. Rusty bolts turn out like new. I was really amazed as to the before and after of the headlight terminal block. I wish they had a tumbler I could just put the whole car in.
http://eastwood.squarespace.com/wesleys-hudson/
A few years from the weekend of valve change out in Shreveport! A daughter in college! I remember those little girls who accompanied you to Nashville.
Your work as always ... first class. Thanks for sharing Wes.
Cheers from HOT
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wkitchens wrote:The Eastwood Company has been kind enough to create a webpage, documenting the work I'm doing to my '48. Even though I'm modifying it, I'm posting the link here, because I'm really impressed with the results I've been getting from tumbling my parts. Rusty bolts turn out like new. I was really amazed as to the before and after of the headlight terminal block. I wish they had a tumbler I could just put the whole car in.
Eastwood has some great parts. However, their tumblers are so very over priced its crazy. You can buy the largest tumbler they offer for half the price through just about any reloading outfit. I hand reload and have been using tumblers for cleaning anything small, including shell casings for a number of years. Gun shows offer even better deals.
I use Rotary Tumbler from Cabela's that is great for bolts and small parts. The vibrators are great too, but the Rotary Tumbler does a super job on polishing. See Rotary Tumbler
No disrespect to Eastwood, but when there is well over a $200 difference for the same item....you have to ask if having the Eastwood name on it makes it that much better. COMPARE Eastwood Tumbler | Lyman Tumbler from Cabela's :eek: -
51hornetA wrote:Yup I got my tumbler at a sports store and it was the same size as the big Eastwood model and half the price looking at it I think its the identical model just different name. Came with 5Ibs of media as well.
That's great news. This hobby costs too much now....I always look around for other places to buy stuff. Nothing against Eastwood, I buy their Powder Coating stuff and it very cool stuff. -
I am obviously doing something wrong with my tumbler. I am using the harbor freight tumbler and the green pyramid media. My first set of nuts, bolts, etc has run for a total of about 14 hours--6 one day and 8 another. Some of the larger pieces have cleaned up little, but overall I am not at all impressed. I guess my questions are:
1. How much time should it take?
2. What prep should I do before tumbling? Some of them are pretty grungy looking to begin with, should I have degrease them first?
3. Are there other types of media that I should be using?
Any suggestions would be helpful.
Thanks.
Tom -
Depends on how rusty the stuff is. I usually get things looking good with the pyramids after 48 hours. I put enough water in there to make sure the Pyramids stay wet during the entire process. You should get a grey, foamy buildup, that you can just scoop off the top. Then I go to walnut shell (dry shine) for 48 hours. By then, things are really starting to shine. My little EXTRA step I take is....I coat all the parts with brasso, and let it dry on there. Then, I put them in the tumbler with corn cob media for 48 hours.
I've never used any other brand tumbler, but I'm happy with mine from Eastwood. I've got the bowl that holds 5lbs. of media, but I also switch over to the bowl I have that holds 15lbs. of media, for bigger parts like door hinges. The bigger bowl takes a little longer because it doesn't "Shake" as much with the heavier bowl. But, at least it works.
Pretty soon, I'll be sending pictures of my door hinges to Eastwood, and they will upload them. I told them I would send them pictures on a monthly basis, so check the webpage they set up for me every so often. -
You should always degrease first. No amount of tumbling will remove grease. If the hardware is super rusty you should add Metal Wash or consider Brown Pyramid if the parts are really rusty. Always make sure the media is kept wet enough during the process. Finsh up with Corn Cob to polish.
-
Hudsonguy,
I coated the parts with ZOOPS SEAL, and set a few of them on my back patio, to see how it holds up. It's only been 4 months, but the parts out there haven't rusted, or even tarnished yet. I'll give it a few of these humid summer months, before I say it works well enough to not coat the parts with anything else.
Ken,
Yes it has been a while since Sherveport and Nashville Meets. Our "kids" aren't kids anymore. After all the work I've been putting into the car, I certainly hope I don't have to do any valve guide work in a hotel parking lot........but that was fun, and a great learning experience.
Hopefully I can dedicate more time to my Hudson , now that both daughters will be off to College. -
I am seriously considering purchase of a vibratory tumbler:
Does it matter what the tumbler is described or listed for?
This tumbler is supposed to be for shell casings, but looks very similiar to others used for parts -
http://www.midsouthshooterssupply.com/item.asp?sku=000157631692
Any use for the 'Auto Flo' option?
http://www.basspro.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/Product_10151_-1_10001_10200314_425005000_425000000_425005000_425-5-0 -
Without a side by side comparison, I'd go by price. I gave a lot more for mine, from Eastwood, and I've used the heck out of it, without problems. Maybe a cheaper one would do just as good? I saw one at Harbour Freight for $189. Sometimes they're the same, sometimes the quality is directly reflective of the price. Sort of like the difference between Made in China Tools, and Craftsman. I let my tumbler run 48 hours with Green Pyramids, 48 hours with Walnut Shells, and 48 hours with corncob media, with every batch, and I've done over 20 batches of nuts and bolts, without problems. I still have many more batches to go, so I hope it last till I'm through. Each batch is in a separate baggie, so I can keep up with what goes where. A baggie for each door, front cap, hood, dash, front suspension, etc. After I tumble them, I put them back into their labeled baggie, and move on to the next baggie.
-
Get the biggest one you can afford that way you can tumble bigger parts. I got mine at a sports store it was for shell casings. (Which means nothing) a tumbler is a tumbler(Quality issues aside). I run mine around the clock like Wes does. I throw anything I can fit in it and run it for days. Better than doing it with a wire brush. Cost me $80 and came with 5Ib of media. And its got a big bowl also came with a media sorting pan so you can dump out the media and sort through it when changing media type. Also I found the dry shine is way cheaper at the gun store than the auto store.www.hudsonmotorcar.org
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I have used one for years to polish rifle and pistol casings its more the type of media you use than anything. how aggressive the media determines the final results The units Eastwood sales are the same thing just twice the price that you can buy one from a place like Midway shooters supply or Natchez shooters supply these are very reputable companies i have done business with for years. But remember somethings need a blast cabinet or a sandblaster.
-
I'm going to chime in here on buying tools in general, with a media tumbler as an primer.
Useage is very important in selecting the right tool for the job. As most of us are hobbyists, price typically drives us in our purchases. A tool that you are going to use a LOT, meaning several times a week, should be a quality tool. That usually relates to not being a chinese tool. Don't get me wrong, I do buy some chinese tools.
For example, I bought a Porta-Power from Harbor freight that cost me (on sale) $150.00. They typically sell for around 5-600 from someone like Snap-On, which would have been nice to have, but it's a tool I will use once, maybe twice a year. Doesn't make sense to me to spend the extra for a tool I'm not going to use often. Also, since it's used less, it will last longer. That same tool used on a daily or weekly basis, means I'll be replacing it before very long, because it's a crappy tool (poorly made).
On the other hand, tools that get used often or under extreme duress-type conditions, you can be sure I'm going to buy the best tool I can find. I think tools like this should out-live me and I should never have to buy another one because it broke or I wore it out.
As far as the media tumblers go, I'm in the market right now as well, simply because of all the talk about them here on the forum. I'd steer clear from the one at Harbor Freight, it's about as cheaply made as you can find. Wes has had a lot of good luck with the one from Eastwood, and he uses his ALOT! That's a good sign. I think one of the ones from the re-loader guys might be the best route, best price for us "hobbyists". Probably the way I'm going to go, but I like the success that Wes has had with his. Sometimes a few dollars more on a really good project pays dividends down the road. -
RL Chilton wrote:
Agreed, and my thoughts are to spend a bit more on a quality tumbler.I'm going to chime in here on buying tools in general, with a media tumbler as an primer.
Useage is very important in selecting the right tool for the job. As most of us are hobbyists, price typically drives us in our purchases. A tool that you are going to use a LOT, meaning several times a week, should be a quality tool. That usually relates to not being a chinese tool. Don't get me wrong, I do buy some chinese tools.
For example, I bought a Porta-Power from Harbor freight that cost me (on sale) $150.00. They typically sell for around 5-600 from someone like Snap-On, which would have been nice to have, but it's a tool I will use once, maybe twice a year. Doesn't make sense to me to spend the extra for a tool I'm not going to use often. Also, since it's used less, it will last longer. That same tool used on a daily or weekly basis, means I'll be replacing it before very long, because it's a crappy tool (poorly made).
On the other hand, tools that get used often or under extreme duress-type conditions, you can be sure I'm going to buy the best tool I can find. I think tools like this should out-live me and I should never have to buy another one because it broke or I wore it out.
As far as the media tumblers go, I'm in the market right now as well, simply because of all the talk about them here on the forum. I'd steer clear from the one at Harbor Freight, it's about as cheaply made as you can find. Wes has had a lot of good luck with the one from Eastwood, and he uses his ALOT! That's a good sign. I think one of the ones from the re-loader guys might be the best route, best price for us "hobbyists". Probably the way I'm going to go, but I like the success that Wes has had with his. Sometimes a few dollars more on a really good project pays dividends down the road.
Has anyone got any experiences with Thumler tumblers? From what I have been reading of them, they are a quality product.
http://www.thumlerstumbler.com/
Here is a link to a site for purchase, cheapest found thus far (cheaper than eBay):
http://armsandammo.com/prodpage.cfm?CFID=394209&CFTOKEN=86009006&SubCatID=131 -
I need to express my opinion here just to shake things up a bit. I am in the middle of a restoration of a 36-8 Hudson. I will admit that there are a few parts that get the tumbler (Harbor Freight model) and a number that have been the full "Grit Blast" route. However, nuts and bolts. Lets be serious here for a minute. In my real job I spend a bit of time with metal. Some of that is with nuts and bolts. As an engineer, I consider myself an authorty on grades of bolts, pitch and design items like "J" threads. The metal bolts on my car would be hard pressed, when new, to check out as a grade 3 bolt. That is about as soft of metal bolts get (Unless you are working on a Chev or Ford). I ran a Rockwell hardness on one of the bolts that I took off my car (raidator mount) and could not get it into the grade 1 class. The bolts that go back on my cars are all new, whenever possible (specialty bolts like headlight bolts and spare tire T bolts are always restored) and are either stainless, chrome or grade 8. Purchased from a Nut and Bolt outlet they are not that expensive and they are well worth the added strength and engineering design you get from high quality bolts/fasteners. I never recommend that bolts be reused in a restoration. Brownie
-
I've read through this a couple of times, attempting to get a 'handle' on the media used for small metal parts, bolts, nuts, washers, etc..
Most references are to the green or brown 'pyramid' media, which appears to be an Eastwood exclusive item (?).
Anyone have any links to other vendors who sell equivalent media? -
46HudsonPU wrote:I've read through this a couple of times, attempting to get a 'handle' on the media used for small metal parts, bolts, nuts, washers, etc..
Most references are to the green or brown 'pyramid' media, which appears to be an Eastwood exclusive item (?).
Anyone have any links to other vendors who sell equivalent media?
I've gotten my green pyramids from 3 different places. Eastwood (most expensive) Harbour Freight (little cheaper) and Contenti Company (cheapest I've found)
http://www.contenti.com/products/tumbling/180-623.html
I started this thread, because as much as I would like to have a lot of stuff chrome plated, the price of the plating has completely changed my mind. Brighter-than-new is good enough for my project, and it just seemed a lot easier to tumble what items I have, than going around trying to re-buy all the different sizes, new. -
RL Chilton wrote:I'm going to chime in here on buying tools in general, with a media tumbler as an primer.
Useage is very important in selecting the right tool for the job. As most of us are hobbyists, price typically drives us in our purchases. A tool that you are going to use a LOT, meaning several times a week, should be a quality tool. That usually relates to not being a chinese tool. Don't get me wrong, I do buy some chinese tools.
For example, I bought a Porta-Power from Harbor freight that cost me (on sale) $150.00. They typically sell for around 5-600 from someone like Snap-On, which would have been nice to have, but it's a tool I will use once, maybe twice a year. Doesn't make sense to me to spend the extra for a tool I'm not going to use often. Also, since it's used less, it will last longer. That same tool used on a daily or weekly basis, means I'll be replacing it before very long, because it's a crappy tool (poorly made).
On the other hand, tools that get used often or under extreme duress-type conditions, you can be sure I'm going to buy the best tool I can find. I think tools like this should out-live me and I should never have to buy another one because it broke or I wore it out.
As far as the media tumblers go, I'm in the market right now as well, simply because of all the talk about them here on the forum. I'd steer clear from the one at Harbor Freight, it's about as cheaply made as you can find. Wes has had a lot of good luck with the one from Eastwood, and he uses his ALOT! That's a good sign. I think one of the ones from the re-loader guys might be the best route, best price for us "hobbyists". Probably the way I'm going to go, but I like the success that Wes has had with his. Sometimes a few dollars more on a really good project pays dividends down the road.
I hope you are having better luck with your chinese porta power than I did. Mine quit the second time I wanted to use it. Lee -
I used that porta-power pretty consistently for about a month or so and no trouble as of yet. I did get the heavier-duty 10 ton model, though . . . don't know if it might've made a difference or not. Still, wouldn't want to use it week in and week out, the quality just isn't there.
-
Was doing some additional research, and found this company on the web - http://www.mikro1.com/
They do this type of work (tumbling, finishing, deburring parts), and sell media, compounds, etc., as well.
My initial inquiry to Mikro was concerning availability of the media type that Eastwood & Contenti offer.
I talked to Bob Wakefield from Mickro on the phone this morning, and he was surprised at the type of media that was being used for the work described. He indicates that with the proper media & compounds, vibratory time for what is now being done by the green or brown pyramids can be reduced to just a few hours, or less.
Here is the text from the follow-up email that I received from him:
Rick,
As we discussed, the media recommended for your application is ¼†x ¼†Angle Cut Triangles VF-M. The price is $1.48/lb with a 50 pound minimum. This media is small enough to get into every corner of your truck parts, and provide a nice, even finish on them, as well.
Also, as we discussed, you will need a tumbling compound to run in your vibe. I recommend ViChem’s VL-557, which will lift the rust off your parts, in a pickling application (20% chemistry, 80% water mix). This will work very nicely in your vibe. The minimum order is a 5 gallon pail at $16.60 a gallon.
There is a per box (50 lbs. per box) packing fee charged by our manufacturer of $6.50 for the media.
There is a $2.50 charge for packing on the chemistry.
We ask our new internet customers to provide us with a credit card for your first purchase. We can then discuss opening an account.
Please call if you have any questions. I look forward to hearing from you.
Bob Wakefield
Mikro Industrial Finishing Co., Inc.170 West Main StreetVernon CT 06066860/875-6357FAX 860/871-6461
The costs based on the minimum on the media would be $73.00 + $6.50 + shipping, and the compound would be $83.00 + $2.50 + shipping. My guesstimate is that if both items were purchased, it would be around $200.00 with shipping.
The ceramic media: Is about 1/3 the cost of the plastic media, works much more quickly/efficiently. Not sure how long it would last, compared to the plastic media.
The vibratory compound: As it is described it sounds like some type of water soluible compound which promotes the breakdown of dirt, grease and rust, similiar to currently available degreasing chemicals with 'orange' mixed in it (orange cleaning agent was mentioned on the phone).
Thoughts, comments, etc..? -
If there's anything I've learned from this thread, is that there's more than one way to skin a cat. I let my batches go so long, because I'm throwing everything in the baggie together. Everything from small screws to hinges. I'm sure the small stuff would be ready sooner, but I just leave it together till the hinges look better. This is a before and after of my latest batch, fresh from the green pyramids. Walnut shell and corn cob, will make them really shine, but the hinges have gone as far as I need to, before painting. I could have sandblasted the hinges, but it was much easier, and less messy, to just throw them in the tumbler, and let it do the work. It's nice also, that it doesn't destroy rubber and plastic in the process. Notice the rubber bumper on the door stop, and also the door lock knob, and window crank handle.
Hudson parts 002_124366583846422.JPG800 x 600 - 44K
Polished parts 001_124366519446422.JPG800 x 600 - 43K -
Agreed Wes -
I've bought a used Thumler vibratory tumbler from a reloader (he got a larger one), and I've already ordered some of the media from Contenti.
I have a Harborfreight local to me, and saw today that they have an assortment of available media. I'll probably get and try a batch of ceramic media, and see how well it works. -
Ok...
Went to HarborFreight - the ceramic media they carry is too large (IMO), so went looking elsewhere.
Took a bit, but I found another place for both the plastic and ceramic media, appears to be the cheapest yet (per lb)...
http://www.vibrafinish.com/index.html
Take a look... No prices online, so you'll need to give them a call for a quote. A minimum order for 'stock' media is 50 lbs.
I have placed a 'minimum' order for some of their ceramic media - (1/4x1/4 ceramic triangle (M)). Once I get the media and try it out, I'll advise on the results. -
Here is the company that makes my tumbler. They are US made and good motors I think. I got the 2500 on sale at the Sport shop here for $80 it also came with separator bowl and 5Ibs of media. I thought it was a good deal. I have been running it around the clock in winter its cleaned a lot of parts so in my book has paid back the $80 and its still going strong.
http://www.lymanproducts.com/lyman/tumblers/www.hudsonmotorcar.org -
For those who think the higher price buys you more quality. The Eastwood Tumbler for $250 is made by the same manufacture that makes the Lyman 2500 series sold for $82 bucks. :eek:
So, if you are committed to spending $250, then just buy 3 of the Lyman Tumblers, quantity has a quality all its own . -
I thought it was pretty good. US made motor which is rare to see these days. Over winter I ran it 24hrs a day tumbling parts for my 54 sedan. Still going strong. I also bought my media at the sports store as it was way cheaper than that auto stores that sold the stuff.
Its a quality motor as I was worried that running it all day long would cause it to overheat but when I touched the casing it was just warm so they cool pretty good. My worry was the thing would overheat and burn down my garage but nope ran cool.www.hudsonmotorcar.org -
Agree with you Ted - Don't see any reason to pay more, just because it has an "Eastwood" tag (or other retailer name) on it.
It will still vibrate at the same rate, and the parts and components are the same. Personally, I don't like to pay anything more than the 'best' price for anything I buy...
The media is the same way... It's all the same stuff (depending on the various base & compositions). The retailer(s) just re-package it into smaller lots, and put a 300-400 % markup on it... -
Since we've had so much discussion about tumblers, I emailed Nick, at Eastwood, and just asked him, "point blank" is there any quality difference between their tumblers, and anyone elses. Here's his response. Let me state, I don't work for Eastwood, I just think inquiring minds want to know. If you agree, or disagree with him, I put in his contact numbers.
Hi Wesley,
There are internal differences between the tumblers we sell and others on the market. Here is what my product manager said.
“Eastwood units are designed and manufactured with heavy duty bearings, springs and motor to completely and thoroughly clean and polish larger automotive/motorcycle parts in the fastest time- Unlike smaller units that are designed for delicate brass ammunition shells sold through firearms and outdoor gear catalogs.â€
Thanks,
Nick
Nicholas L. Capinski
E-Commerce Marketing Manager
The Eastwood Company
263 Shoemaker Rd
Pottstown, PA 19464
610-705-5404
Fax: 610-323-6268
Visit www.eastwood.com today! -
I am betting if I pull my unit apart and the Eastwood apart they are identical. He can say what he likes. The Lyman 2500 is identical in size to the Eastwood unit. Its designed to handle 1000 .38 shell casings at a time thats a bit of weight. I am running mine with all the bolts, hinges anything I can jam in there and its run with zero problems. And its still running strong. When I looked at the Eastwood unit here I thought darn that thing looks identical to mine turned it over and everything looks the same. When Ted said they are made by same company I thought aha.
By the way I was going to buy the Eastwood unit until someone on here pointed out the Sports stores sell em cheaper. Went over and yup its true. Same thing with Eastwoods selling Martin body hammers. I got the same hammers here at a body shop jobber for half the price. I got a soda blaster here for $110 bucks and I cannot tell the diff between it and the $299 unit Eastwood sells. Eastwood makes lots of great tools but some of it is hype and advertising.www.hudsonmotorcar.org -
46HudsonPU wrote:
Got the ceramic media in this afternoon - 50lbs of 1/4 x 1/4 'General' Triangle media.Ok...
Went to HarborFreight - the ceramic media they carry is too large (IMO), so went looking elsewhere.
Took a bit, but I found another place for both the plastic and ceramic media, appears to be the cheapest yet (per lb)...
http://www.vibrafinish.com/index.html
Take a look... No prices online, so you'll need to give them a call for a quote. A minimum order for 'stock' media is 50 lbs.
I have placed a 'minimum' order for some of their ceramic media - (1/4x1/4 ceramic triangle (M)). Once I get the media and try it out, I'll advise on the results.
I have some similiar parts (to my first load) going now, since about 2:00 PM (a bit less than two hours). I'll check this evening, after they've had about 5 hours to do their magic, and will let you know. -
46HudsonPU wrote:
Looks like the ceramic triangle (1/4 x 1/4) media does the job, and takes about 1/2 the time of the plastic pyramid 1/4x1/4x1/4 media.Got the ceramic media in this afternoon - 50lbs of 1/4 x 1/4 'General' Triangle media.
I have some similiar parts (to my first load) going now, since about 2:00 PM (a bit less than two hours). I'll check this evening, after they've had about 5 hours to do their magic, and will let you know.
Be aware that it is much heavier than the plastic media, so -
- will cost a bit more to ship;
- will put more strain on your vibratory tumbler. My tumbler appeared to handle it without issue.
Started a second 'load' with the ceramic media this morning - -
46HudsonPU wrote:Looks like the ceramic triangle (1/4 x 1/4) media does the job, and takes about 1/2 the time of the plastic pyramid 1/4x1/4x1/4 media.
Be aware that it is much heavier than the plastic media, so -
- will cost a bit more to ship;
- will put more strain on your vibratory tumbler. My tumbler appeared to handle it without issue.
Started a second 'load' with the ceramic media this morning -
Don't forget to take some pic's during the process. I started another batch yesterday myself. Will post pic's of 48 hour increments. -
wkitchens wrote:
Started to reply to this once, hit the backspace key and lost what I had written... Let's try again -Don't forget to take some pic's during the process. I started another batch yesterday myself. Will post pic's of 48 hour increments.
Haven't been taking any pictures.
Guess I could take a couple of 'after' shots...
So far - (times are rough/approximate)
Load #1: 48-56 hours with green pyramid media (wet), 36 hours walnut shell media (dry);
Load #2: 28-30 hours with ceramic triangle media (wet), 36 hours walnut shell media (dry);
As you can see, I do not have and am not using the corncob media. I am not attempting to get a high polish/shine on the parts (at least for now). My focus is to remove the rust, dirt & grime, and to have parts look good with a nice finish.
Although I am tumbling nuts, bolts, washers, etc., I may not be using 'all' of them - however there are quite a few specialized items, which could be difficult (if not impossible) to find new/modern equivalents to...
It appears (at least to me) that my tumbler is making quite a bit more noise than it did initially. I have checked it over, and nothing appears loose or even worn - I'll take a closer look after the 'overnight' load is done tomorrow, but it was so loud today that I didn't do much tumbling today while I was in the workshop... -
Rick, depending on how much I put in there, and the size of the items, makes a difference on the noise mine makes. Big items, like hinges, with green pyramids, makes a big racket, but with small nuts and bolts, and corncob media, it just hums. It's a shame they don't make a tumbler big enough to tumble the whole car. Restoring one would be so much easier!
-
Here's what my batch looks like after 48 hrs. You can see the grey sludge I get. I hose it off, then turn the tumbler on and run a magnet through the media to get the parts. After I've gotten all the parts, I put the media on a net, and hose it clean, ready for the next use.
Hudson Parts 001-1_124528846546422.JPG800 x 600 - 21K
Tumbling parts 005_124530573746422.JPG800 x 600 - 38K
Tumbling parts 001_124531506846422.JPG800 x 600 - 47K
Tumbling parts 003_124530473546422.JPG800 x 600 - 37K
Tumbling parts 006_124530823346422.JPG800 x 600 - 41K -
wkitchens wrote:“Eastwood units are designed and manufactured with heavy duty bearings, springs and motor to completely and thoroughly clean and polish larger automotive/motorcycle parts in the fastest time- Unlike smaller units that are designed for delicate brass ammunition shells sold through firearms and outdoor gear catalogs.â€
Well, thanks for asking. It’s true that Eastwood has some cool stuff, but the answer you got back it pure bunk. I have seen both and had both in my hands....they are the same. Maybe Eastwood thought they were getting something else when they took on this item or the manufacture is telling them something else.
I have nothing but hero worship for Eastwood, but in this case this duck is not a goose.
Save your money.
Oh, BTW....if you what to try something cool from Eastwood, check out their spray chrome kit. I kid you not, the results are very good and for small parts you can't beat it. I use it restore dash knobs, little trim pieces, interior items and under the hood parts. Re-coat pot-metal items. Very cool. -
Looks more than a bit familiar - but I am not getting as much of that green foam 'head'...
What are you putting in, besides water?
I have some water soluable degreaser (picked up at local AutoZone), and put in around 8oz (a cup) with each load. not as much foam, but that water really gets dirty.
When finished, I pour the entire mess into a plastic tub & then rinse the entire thing until the water is clear. I then separate the media from the parts, dry them off and then do the walnut shell media.
Load #1 - After plastic pyramid media - *forgot I had taken this photo*
Load #1 - after secondary walnut shell media treatment -
Load #2 - After both ceramic triangle media and walnut shell media treatments.
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Ted W wrote:
Hmmm... Sand? I've got a few bags of 'Quikcrete play sand' I picked up at Lowes (stored inside, bag says it is already dried) - I might try a load of that as a follow-up, just to see how it does.Also, you can use Glass Bead to tumble parts clean. You never really see that media associated in magazines or catalogs, but it works good to clean nuts and bolts...or small parts. Heck, I bet you could use sand or pebbles for that matter.
I also have some glass bead media that I haven't used in my cabinet yet... -
royer wrote:
Don't think so... My wife doesn't like what I do with bleach!Careful, your wives are gonna find out how good you are at working the parts cleaning machine and put you in charge of the laundry LOL!!
As a side-note, my tumbler is out of commission, at least until I get some parts in (already ordered). The base that holds the media bin has developed some cracks, probably because I tightened the media bin too tight. That, coupled with the vibration caused cracks.
In the meantime - I'm keeping myself busy cleaning parts-n-pieces with the blasting cabinet, parts washer, as well as dismantling the '46 - (my 3rd engine/trans still in this one).
If I have some spare time, I'll be working on the intake, carb, fuel pump and water pump for the '39 175 cu in engine, and maybe the same items from the '54 232 as well... As you can see, plenty to keep me busy! -
46HudsonPU wrote:Don't think so... My wife doesn't like what I do with bleach!
As a side-note, my tumbler is out of commission, at least until I get some parts in (already ordered). The base that holds the media bin has developed some cracks, probably because I tightened the media bin too tight. That, coupled with the vibration caused cracks.
In the meantime - I'm keeping myself busy cleaning parts-n-pieces with the blasting cabinet, parts washer, as well as dismantling the '46 - (my 3rd engine/trans still in this one).
If I have some spare time, I'll be working on the intake, carb, fuel pump and water pump for the '39 175 cu in engine, and maybe the same items from the '54 232 as well... As you can see, plenty to keep me busy!
Rick, could you take some pictures of the cracked base. I'm curious to see the design difference between yours and mine. -
wkitchens wrote:
Wes - here are a couple of pictures taken of the base, from the bottom:Rick, could you take some pictures of the cracked base. I'm curious to see the design difference between yours and mine.
Pretty extensive. Some of the cracks are not too clear. The four inner holes are where the motor bolts to the base. The center hole (torn out) is where the bin mounts to the base. The outer holes mount to springs, which dampen the vibration of the tumbler. Actually, this thing would probably be somewhat simple to make...
I have highlighted the cracks with a felt-tipped marker, to make them more easily seen -
As you can see, the cracks are horizontal, and appear to be going toward a couple of the outer holes (on left and right sides). Those two holes actually are supports for the bottom of the motor (forgot to mention them above).
To me it looks like metal fatigue, due to the shaking (?)... -
Rick-
How old is this tumbler? -
RL Chilton wrote:
Don't know. I bought it used, but it looked pretty good when I got it - no cracks, etc., seen...Rick-
How old is this tumbler?
I've only had it a couple of weeks, and run it for about 120-150 hours (estimated)...
