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New clutch slipping under heavy acceleration
  • nhp1127nhp1127
    Posts: 2,275Platinum Member
    I have a 52 hornet Coupe with a 7X motor with 3 spd, O/D. It has a new clutch in it but it will slip when I tromp on the gas while in second. I haven't checked the fluid level yet but I will. If not the fluid what would the other possibilities be? I'm taking the car over to my buddy next week but would like your feedback. Thanks, Niels
  • 7XPacemaker
    Posts: 332Platinum Member
    When you say "new"- what does that mean? Where did it come from? Is it a NOS one? One from Ron Fellows? One from Doug when he was doing them? I had something like this happen to my Pacemaker once....
  • nhp1127nhp1127
    Posts: 2,275Platinum Member
    It came from a guy out of Portland by the name of Ron Anderson. I did'nt order it or put it in so not sure if it was sufficient.
  • bob wardbob ward
    Posts: 528Platinum Member
    Assuming the linkage adjustments are all OK, one possibility is that the gasket between the flywheel and clutch cover is too thick. From memory it should be 1/32" or 0.8mm.



    Another possibility is that the clutch fingers are not adjusted correctly.
  • Aaron D. IL
    Posts: 1,648Platinum Member
    Clutch pedal adjustment. If it's not right it willl cause slipping but that slippage would usually be noticed in lower gears. too.
  • nhp1127nhp1127
    Posts: 2,275Platinum Member
    I guess I'll find out next week. Hopefully it is just the linkage. I appreciate the input.
  • Clutch guy
    Posts: 811Platinum Member
    Neils,make sure that there is enough free travel in the pedal. Also,there is no way to check the level of fluid. Drain it and put in another 6-7oz of clutch fluid. It could be that someone thought it was fluid drive and filled it up!!:eek: If this doesn't correct the concern, it will need to come apart for inspection. The Hudson wet clutch when done properly should hold up for awhile,usually long enough to break something else long before it will give up-axle,input shaft or a u-joint etc...:D
  • nhp1127nhp1127
    Posts: 2,275Platinum Member
    Clutch guy wrote:
    Neils,make sure that there is enough free travel in the pedal. Also,there is no way to check the level of fluid. Drain it and put in another 6-7oz of clutch fluid. It could be that someone thought it was fluid drive and filled it up!!:eek: If this doesn't correct the concern, it will need to come apart for inspection. The Hudson wet clutch when done properly should hold up for awhile,usually long enough to break something else long before it will give up-axle,input shaft or a u-joint etc...:D



    The clutch doesn't start to engage until the clutch pedal is almost all the way out...

    We'll check that first, then the oil.
  • ralpie
    Posts: 1,066Platinum Member
    nhp1127 wrote:
    The clutch doesn't start to engage until the clutch pedal is almost all the way out...
    We'll check that first, then the oil.

    Neils:

    Along with the GREAT advice you have already received let me add:

    The clutch pedal linkage is a combination of surfaces that are without bearings. The surfaces depend on the proper lubrication and correct adjustment of the overall linkage to assure proper operation and a reasonable life time. The linkage in your car is the same as that which was in my car. Several years ago I did a complete clutch job which included all refurbished or rebuilt parts from Doug the Clutch Guy. Included in the job was the rebushing of the clutch linkage cross shaft which holds the throw out bearing... a through check of the throw out bearing collar. Most important in this process was the external linkage. The mounting collar which bolts to the Hudson frame provides the fulcrum point for the paddles which engage the paddles on the bell housing. The bracket in my Hudson was badly worn. The fulcrum hole was oval and oblong from the years of use. Also the cross shaft had a 1/4 inch deep groove cut into it from years of use. The bracket was repaired using a bushing and the shaft was welded and rehardened. These changes coupled with the replacement of the paddle rubbers allowed the clutch adjustments to be made as prescribed in the Hudson Mechanical procedures.

    See this thread for the pictures and a few other comments:
    http://www.classiccar.com/forums/showthread.php?t=15806&highlight=Clutch+wear

    Worth a look... since fixing mine I have found several others with exactly the same wear.

    Cheers

  • Billy K.TN.
    Posts: 396Platinum Member
    If all else fails you may have a 9 inch clutch. Have seen this happen a time or two.
  • RodRod
    Posts: 98Senior Contributor
    Nobody has mentioned that whoever put it together may have put in motor oil or something. Drain it out. If you don't have clutch oil handy, put in 6 oz. of automatic trans fluid.
  • Huddy42Huddy42
    Posts: 1,005Platinum Member
    If using ATF you MUST use Dextron11 or 111, some of the Ford ATF oils can cause slippage, found this out the hard way.
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