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In this Discussion
- Billy K.TN. March 2009
- faustmb March 2009
- Hudson308 March 2009
- hudsonguy March 2009
- Ken U-Tx March 2009
- rambos_ride April 2009
- russmaas March 2009
- SuperDave March 2009
- walts garage-53 March 2009
Twin-H Rebuild Q.1
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Are these plugs - if so, are they removable?
If removable - would one want to remove them to clean out any carbon deposits? And if so, where can replacements be found?
Thanks
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Yes they are removable, and I believe you can get replacements via a retailer of Dorman products. Dorman does not sell directly to individuals. I believe NAPA , Oreillys' and Auto zone get theirs from Dorman, but often repackage them in their own brand name boxes/ bags. Kenneth
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Ken U-Tx wrote:Yes they are removable, and I believe you can get replacements via a retailer of Dorman products. Dorman does not sell directly to individuals. I believe NAPA , Oreillys' and Auto zone get theirs from Dorman, but often repackage them in their own brand name boxes/ bags. Kenneth
Thanks Ken, is it worth the extra work to remove and replace these plugs - or am I making too much work for myself hunting down more parts?
Would I just drill them out - do you cold press the plugs when installing new ones?
Maybe someone has a mechanical procedure write up on the intake rebuild - book or otherwise? -
I've removed these plugs with a 1/8" sheet metal screw and a slide hammer. Care must be taken to clean the flange that the new plug seats on. A tiny bit of high-temp silicone in the corner of this flange before plug installation wouldn't hurt. The new plug will be the convex dish type that gets a quick tap in the center with a blunt punch to expand it upon installation.Workin Stiff
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I have found NAPA carries the bst selection of these. Advance/ AZ carry sb Chevy kits and the like. NAPA has an assorment of sizes sold individually.
Matt -
Also be carefull on the sizes. I think the design was 7/16" ?? I have found some mixed sizes in the same manifold. Probably done at the manufacturing plant to cleanup a bad fit. But DO clean out all the carbon buildup.
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Hit them out with a punch and hammer. 7/8 th dish freeze plug. These usually rust thru on the inside and need to be replaced.
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Keep in mind that if this is to be used with exhaust headers, then you don't even need to replace those core plugs. Nor do you need to cap off the cavity between the intake/exhaust.
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The manifold will be full of carbon and crud. Need cleaning.
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rambos_ride wrote:
Walt here. Drill a 1/4 inch hole through the middle, install a punch and press sideways. Do not try to knock them in to remove as you will break off the inner shoulder and now you have troubles. Install new ones by using the ball pean end of a hammer and strike it with another hammer. Once should be enough.Are these plugs - if so, are they removable?
If removable - would one want to remove them to clean out any carbon deposits? And if so, where can replacements be found?
Thanks
-
I'll remove and replace the plugs if I go forward..
I'm still evaluating the Intake...it's got 1 broken bolt where the heat x-over end cap bolts, that should be standard enough...
There is some somewhat severe rust pitting on the mating surface between the bottom of the intake and the exhaust on the intake side.
Is this primarily a heat expansion chamber?
How critical is this area in terms of sealing - will a high-heat gasket suffice - or is it supposed to be metal-to-metal?
Can this area be milled down a couple thou safely?
On the Intake to Block mating surfaces the only pitting I see is some small spots around the perifiry of the port - it appears a porting gasket matching job would take care of any of these small areas.
Have any of you port matched your Twin-H Intake? -
Bumping back to the top - Any input on my last questions about the rust pitting on mating surfaces would be greatly appreciated.
It's not that I don't have common sense - just looking for those with experience with parts that are older than me
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rambos_ride wrote:Bumping back to the top - Any input on my last questions about the rust pitting on mating surfaces would be greatly appreciated.
It's not that I don't have common sense - just looking for those with experience with parts that are older than me
High-temp silicone will likely seal those pits, Dan... but as an alternative You can mill that surface.
Keep in mind, though every .030" you take off misaligns the exhaust vs. intake pattern at the block gasket. Not a huge deal, but something to remember. You would just do your gasket matching after the machine work.Workin Stiff -
YEP - Good idea to pull and replace the plugs...no sense skimping on the refurbish!
There was at least 1.5 lbs of carbon built up inside.
I did find the plugs - here's the part #
Dorman 550-010
