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In this Discussion
- Oldcar_Mechanic October 2008
- suavecitoone October 2008
- tinlizzy January 2009
1948 Dodge Brakes
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Hi Im New Here I Have A 1948 Dodge I Dont Know If Its A Custom Or A Delux N I Would Like To Know If Anyone Has Done Brakes Up Grade With Some Newer Ones That Can Just Bolt In, Either Newer Back Plates From Newer Car Or Changin Out All The Nuckle Any Help Please Thank You. Also Thinkn Of Replacin Motor N Tranny With A Chevy 235 N Powerglyde Tranny Will It Fit N Is It Worth It Or Keep Original Engine It Hasnt Been On Or Driven 4 Over 30 Years [10 That I Have Had It] Thank You
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I would be curious to know why you want to do all this work. Are you looking for a better brake system then what came on the car? Are you thinking of disc brakes? Does the car have an engine and transmission in it now? Are all the parts there? DO you know that in fact that the engine and or trans is bad?
Sorry for all the questions
Ron -
Oldcar_Mechanic wrote:
NO THANK YOU FOR ANSWEARIN MY ? ON THE BRAKES YES I WOULD LIKE A BETTER BREAKIN SYSTEM,DISCS BRAKES WOULD BE GOOD BUT ILL SETTLE WITH JUST NEWER DRUMS THAT I CAN GO TO A PEP BOYS N BE ABLE TO GET THEM WITH OUT HAVIN TO WAIT,THE CAR DOES HAVE AN ENGINE IN IT N TRANNY THAT LAST TIME 8 YEARS AGO A FRIEND OF MINE WAS ABLE TO START IT. WE HAD PUT A 12 VOLT FUEL PUMP CUZ D ORIGINAL WAS NOT WORKIN BUT IT KEPT OVER FLODIN HE SAID THAT IT WAS CUS THE PUMP WAS PUSHIN TO MUCH FUEL,I CHECKD THE OIL LAST NITE N ITS CRYSTAL CLEAN THE PREVIOUS OWNER HAD THAT BABY WELL MAINTANCE I FOUND RECIPS OF SERVICES DONE TO IT,IF I COULD ILL LEAVE IT ORIGINAL BUT CAN I AT LEAST CHANGE THE BATTERY FROM A 6 VOLTS TO 12 CAUSE I KNT FIND A 6 VOLT BATT. N I DONT WANT TO ORDER 1 OF THE NET.THANK YOU RON I DONT KNOW MUCH ABOUT THE ELECTRICAL SYSTEM N ALL THAT GROUND POSITIVE THAT I HEAR ABOUT.:confused:I would be curious to know why you want to do all this work. Are you looking for a better brake system then what came on the car? Are you thinking of disc brakes? Does the car have an engine and transmission in it now? Are all the parts there? DO you know that in fact that the engine and or trans is bad?
Sorry for all the questions
Ron -
It's not a good idea to run a 12 volt pump on 6 volts. I think it's bad for the motor in the pump. Have you thought about fixing or rebuilding the original fuel pump? You don't say where you are located but you should not have that big of a problem finding a 6 volt pump if that is what you want to do. You may need to put a pressure regulator in the system to dial it down.
If the vehicle was that well maintained, I would leave it alone so it won't cost you more money. I would also leave the 6 volt alone. As long as the connections are clean and tight and the cables are the correct size, there should not be any problems. I have worked on many 6 volt cars and they do not give any more problems then if you were to change it to 12 volts. Changing it over you have to do to many things to the car to make it all operate properly.
Hope this helps
Ron -
Ok If I Want To At Least Started How Would You Suggest But I Dont Have A 6 Volt Battery Kn I Try With A 12 Volt Just To At Least Crank It Over Or What Should I Do, Do I Need To Clean Anything I Tried To Post Some Picts 4 U To See But No Luck I Really Really Want To Get It Started Thank You Oh Im In Tucson A.z. :d
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You say that the car has not been driven for 30 years. With that in mind, you have to understand that you can't just put a battery in it and turn the key. I can't seem to understand why it's so difficult to find a 6 volt battery but you could use a 12 volt battery to try to start it, but I would suggest preparing the engine first. Pull the plugs out and squirt either some trans fluid or marvel mystery oil into the cylinders. About 3 pumps from an oil can should do. Let is sit for a day and then crank the engine for a short time. Pulling the distributor out and turning the oil pump would be good to help prime the engine.
What is the condition of the fuel? What is the condition of the wiring? What is the condition of all of the hoses? The Radiator?
You see there is more to it then just the simple things.
If worse came to worse, I guess you just feed the carb with fresh fuel from another container and try it, but after 30 years, the carb should be pretty clogged up also.
Best of luck with whatever you do, but be very careful and be sure that you have a fire extinguisher handy.
Ron -
Ok thank You Ill Try All That Not Sure About The Takin The Distributer Out But Ill Do The Rest,the wires are ok not the best but ok radiator is new i got it n its just been sittin in there 4 about 8 to 10 years the hose from the rad. to the block is also good, Thank You 4 All Your Help N Ill Keep U Post It . OK i went out n took out the spark plugs n squirted 3 squirts of tranny fluid also cleand out the spark plugs with gas n the tops of them i also took off the carb cleaner or filter that it has, but its full of oil is that normal to have, i dint see any hoses goin in or out of it so i dont know where it came from oh yea before i forget on the master cylinder 4 the brakes i noticed that it has a pin hole that fluid would squirt out when i preassed d brakes is that also normal or it has a plug in the lines,n do u know if or how to put up picts on here, thank you n sorry to be a bug.
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I hope that at least the radiator was not open for that amount of time. Anything that was not sealed on the engine is a great place for small animals, like mice to make a home in.
The air cleaner is what they called an oil bath air cleaner. As theair flowed through it anything large that got into it would get caught on the oil and not sucked into the carb. It is normal to have oil in it.
The fluid squirting up in the master cylinder when you depress the pedal is also normal.
Let us know what happens when you work on it next.
Ron -
Ok I Went Out There N Tried To Started With The 12 Volt Batt. But I Dint Get Nothin No Start No Noise So Im Going To Check If Im Gettn Power To The Starter (i Hope Its Not A Bad Starter) Also Im Going To Check 4 The Rest Electrical To See If Im Gettn Power To It, So Im I Goin To Have To B Addin Oil Evry So Often To The Master Cylinder Since It Squirts Out? Oh Yea The Radiator Was Open From The Bottom Hole Kan I Just Flush It With Water Or Do U Know Of A Trick To Clean It Out Thank You Again. o.k just got back in i did checkd if i was gettin power to the starter n i wasnt so i jump it with jumper cables then found out i had a low battery so i charged it then tried it n it does crank over but it wont start i put some gas in the carb n keept tryin then i noticed the coil to be hot so i stopd let it cool down tried it again n nthin at 1 time i swear that it stayed on 4 about 2 seconds or [maybe it was just me all exiteded ] i think that maybe i flooded the carb oh also when i took off the carb cleaner it had a piece of rag in it i think my friend put it there last time we started it so thats good right nways what do u think i should look 4 if it keeps on crankin but no start how can i check if the spark plugs are gettin juice do i take off the wire n put it 1 inch off the block to see if it does spark i dint tryied it cuz i dont member if this is correct man this is so great to finally be able to get it goin after so long thank you 4 all ur help im glad that theres people out there like you that is willin to help a person out.
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OK so I read it wrong. The brake fluid squirting out of someplace while the system is in tact and the cap is on the master cylinder is not a good thing.
Trying to start a 6 volt system on a 12 volt battery is a tricky process. You need to be very carefull because you will overheat the coil and the starter if you are not careful. Also the gauges are not set up for 12 volts nor the wiring. I would rather see you use a battery charger on a 6 volt battery.
Cleaning the plugs are a must. Taking the distributor cap of the distributor and seeing if the points are operating properly is also a must.
I don't know what kind and how much experience you have around a car but if you do not have much experience I would suggest you get someone with experience to help you. That is better then causing harm to many things on the car just to see if it runs. There are certain precautions you need to take. Waking this car up with a methodical process is the only way to properly do this. After all, you don't want to start the car on fire, do you? DO you have a fire extinguisher handy?
My best suggestion at this time is get a 6 volt battery and then we can go from there.
Ron -
ok so i went out again n tried to start it i pour a litlle more gas in the carb n guess what IT STARTED it kept on till the gas ran out, then after e few hopping's n Dances that i did i found an old 12 volt pump i pluggd it on n to small bottle with gas n it started right up again the i moved it back n forth 4 about 5 feet n it did moved easily man im glad tha its workin but the original pump does not work i think i can rebuild it right im still in search 4 a battery n if i knt started from the inside what would it be the solynoid maybe do u know where i could find a wire diagram at, n then im goin to find out on the brakes see if someone here might know where i could get the hardware i found the cylinders rebuilt kit, but im gettin slowly now i just tap it n it starts right up. does any1 know how do i know if its a 6 volt ground positive i got mine but the negative goes to the block under the generator n the positive goes to the starter solenoid then to the starter please any1 that can help thank you. Hey old car mechanic where u at i need ur help? thank you.
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In 1948 they were positive ground.
I'll see if I have a wiring diagram for you car, but I don't think I do.
How have you been starting it? Have you tried from from inside? Does it have a button on the dash to start it? or starter switch that you operate with you foot on the floor?
Ron -
Oldcar_Mechanic wrote:
I BEEN STARTIN DIRECT CUZ THE SOLENOID DOESNT WORK N YES IT HAS A BUTTON ON THE INSIDE TOP LEFT CORNER ON THE DASH I CHECKED IT WITH A VOLTMETER N A 12 VOLT BATTERY N I GET 12 TO THE SMALL WIRE THAT IS ON THE SOLENOID BUT NONE ON THE OUT POST THAT GOES TO THE STARTER. today i finally got a 6 volt battery i installed it but i dnt know if its weak cuause it turns real slow n it doesnt start could i be doin something wrong but with the 12 volt it turned on real good on that solenoid i called places in town 4 a replacement n no 1 has 1 but im still searchin, u know i might be thinkin if the previous owner might of had changed it over to a 12 volt system can u give me a brief run down on whats the positive ground system compared to the 12 volt thanks n sorry 4 all the dumd ?s i also had a 47 packard clipper that i gave to a friend cuz i dint know nothing about old cars n kept the dodge cuz i knew that brand i i dint know what a packard was or who had made it now i know oh well i hope that he restores it.In 1948 they were positive ground.
I'll see if I have a wiring diagram for you car, but I don't think I do.
How have you been starting it? Have you tried from from inside? Does it have a button on the dash to start it? or starter switch that you operate with you foot on the floor?
Ron -
I guess it couldhave been converted to 12 volts. That's one of those things that you will have to investigate to see for yourself. Things to think about. 1) Does it still have the large Battery cables? They need to be very clean and tight at the connections. 2) If you have voltage at the solenoid at the starter, but the starter does not turn, then I would suspect a bad solenoid or bad connections inside.
You have to understand, it's difficult to help give advice without seeing the car directly. A 6 volt stater will operate off a 12 volt battery and last because it is only in use for a very short time, but what about the wiring? the generator? the bulbs and the gauges? They will not work on 12 volts. In fact if you hook a 12 volt battery to the car in place of the 6 volt and tun on the lights, you most likely blow the bulbs.
All questions are not stupid. The only wrong questions are the ones that are not asked. No matter what car you have, you will always have to do things to it and that takes time, effort and money.
I just hope some of this helps. I don't have all the answers, but on this site very few people help.
Ron -
i appreciate the help n the patience that you have, i did find out that its a bad solenoid cuz now sometimes it starts with the switch n smtms it doesnt but kn u PLEASE xplain to me the positive ground towards the neg ground i asked a guy n all he said is (well thats just what it is, your negative ground goes to the chassis and ur positive goes to your regulator and another wire that goes from your positive to your chassis) and i dont think thats right another guy said that my neg goes to my starter solenoid n that my positive goes to the chassis so im confuised, i tried turnin on the lights n they dint blew out they were just real bright well thank you. old car mechanic
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Positive ground was the way they built cars (except for Willys which was neagative ground) until 1954 ( I think). I do know that it was that way until 1950 anyway.
Positive ground meant that the positive battery terminal (which is the larger of the two) was connected to a ground source. Most went directly to the engine I believe and then another strap went from the engine to the frame. The negative went from the battery to the starter. It all has to do with how they perceive the electrons flow, i.e. from the positive to the negative or vise-versa.
The battery should be marked + or - and you should be able to tell which one is larger then the other. Of course you don't know how this was all connected by the previous owner. A car will run if you connect the battery cables backwards but the performance will not be there plus the longevity of the ignition coil will be deminished.
I think that the best thing is to get the starter solenoid working correctly first, connect a 6 volt battery to the car, be sure that ALL the connections of the battery cables are clean and tight and see what happens.
Ron -
So If Lets Say That If Would Convert It To 12 Volts What Kind Of Alternator From What Car Iwould Need N Regulator I Know Im Goin To Need Resistors 4 The Gauges To Work N Would My Wireharness Would Handle It Or What Hardness From Another Car Kn I Get It From Thank You.
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Do some reading here http://www.ynzyesterdaysparts.com/blog/
I hope that this will help you understand things more clearly.
Ron -
Oldcar_Mechanic wrote:Do some reading here http://www.ynzyesterdaysparts.com/blog/
I hope that this will help you understand things more clearly.
Ron
ok now that u have convinced me 2 keep it 6 volts i took off the wires to the starter n the ground to get new ones, they dont have them i tried a couple of auto parts n they dont carry 6 volt wire then i went to a electrical supply store n they dont carry it there neither my next store is goin to be home depo n lowes ill let u know what happen but where else would u suggest.thank you:D -
I can't understand why an auto parts store does not carry what you want. You are talking about the battery cables aren't you? They will be size "0" . The rest of the wiring is gaged for the device that it is supplying. Some things need 12 gauge and some can use 14 gauge.
On a 6 volt system, if you have the correct battery cables and they are clean and tight, you will have no problems starting the car (of course this is as long as the starter is good).
I was helping a friend with his 47 Lincoln and he had the starter rebuilt, a new battery and the correct ground cable, but because the positive cable was a modern day one the car cranked slow and was difficult to start. A simple replacement of the one cable and this car starts as good as any car today.
Keep us posted as to your progress.
Ron -
Oldcar_Mechanic wrote:
yes im talkin about the cable thats goin to go from my negative of the battery to the solenoid n from the solenoid to the sarter n the positive of the battery to the block,see mine the one goin to the block at the bottom under the generator its all bear wires n the one from my batt to the solenoid is very hard n its crackin n the 1 goin to the starter is not that bad but i figuere to replaced them, n the rest of the smaller wires are all tearin apart from the insulation n i dont want them to start a fire, well im goin to keep lookin thank you very much.I can't understand why an auto parts store does not carry what you want. You are talking about the battery cables aren't you? They will be size "0" . The rest of the wiring is gaged for the device that it is supplying. Some things need 12 gauge and some can use 14 gauge.
On a 6 volt system, if you have the correct battery cables and they are clean and tight, you will have no problems starting the car (of course this is as long as the starter is good).
I was helping a friend with his 47 Lincoln and he had the starter rebuilt, a new battery and the correct ground cable, but because the positive cable was a modern day one the car cranked slow and was difficult to start. A simple replacement of the one cable and this car starts as good as any car today.
Keep us posted as to your progress.
Ron -
go to pilot house forum everything you need to know is there.