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In this Discussion
- 52 kahuna July 2010
- 52Stude July 2010
- bent metal March 2012
- BJ__TN October 2010
- Browniepetersen January 2011
- DaveFury June 2010
- esfoder July 2010
- essexcoupe3131 August 2011
- ESSX28-1 September 2010
- Geoff C., N.Z. September 2010
- hornet53 June 2008
- HotrodHR July 2011
- HudMotCarCo August 2011
- Hudson308 August 2011
- jsrail August 2010
- Lee ODell January 2012
- lsfirth September 2010
- MikeWA June 2010
- mrsbojigger August 2008
- Ol racer June 2008
- onerare39 October 2010
- Pacemaker500 June 2008
- rambos_ride September 2010
- Ric West IN September 2010
- RL Chilton August 2010
- roy chapin April 2012
- royer June 2008
- Sambone July 2008
- servat_hudson August 2010
- stbryson September 2010
- super651 June 2008
- VicTor Z September 2010
new rat rod project
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I'm thinkin' 392 Hemi, or 308 Hudson with an old super charger. Lots of louvers and Lambo doors. :rolleyes:

She's about 80% there, it's a 1927 Essex. By the way, I'm just kidding about the rat rod stuff.
Anyone have one of these? My Dad needs some info and a few parts.
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bent metal wrote:I'm thinkin' 392 Hemi, or 308 Hudson with an old super charger. Lots of louvers and Lambo doors. :rolleyes:

She's about 80% there, it's a 1927 Essex. By the way, I'm just kidding about the rat rod stuff.
Anyone have one of these? My Dad needs some info and a few parts.
On eBay
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Boattail-Body-for-1927-29-Essex-Hudson-Sportabout_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ10076QQihZ004QQitemZ140243878737QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVWDave Y
New Zealand -
FYI
Perhaps I am biased, but anything as rare as a Boatail Essex speedster would look out of place without Hudson Power. Think more about a Hornet (that would practically bolt in) coupled to a 4 Spd with Triple Carbs. There are many updates & adapters to make Hornet's more powerful than ever before and as long lasting as modern motors...(Not to mention eventual resale value) -
Ol racer wrote:FYI
Perhaps I am biased, but anything as rare as a Boatail Essex speedster would look out of place without Hudson Power. Think more about a Hornet (that would practically bolt in) coupled to a 4 Spd with Triple Carbs. There are many updates & adapters to make Hornet's more powerful than ever before and as long lasting as modern motors...(Not to mention eventual resale value)
So I see you didn't mention the lambo doors so your okay with that. Good me too. As for the drive train, how about an Invader motor. :rolleyes:I know where one is that is still for sale. hmmm a little stretch on the frame and tadah! As for resale value, HA! I never sell anything.
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bent metal wrote:
I got a good laugh out of that one. You shoulda said you had chopped off the back to turn it into a pickup truck...and put a Rambler motor in it. That would've ruffled some feathers.I'm thinkin' 392 Hemi, or 308 Hudson with an old super charger. Lots of louvers and Lambo doors. :rolleyes:

Nice find BTW -
Ohhh - streched with a 1000 cubic inch Hudson Invader w/twin turbos = that would give those "Blastolene" hacks a run for their money :eek:
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I think you ought to lower it and add a hydraulic bounce kit and have it hoppin' at the car shows.
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Flip it over, seal it, and bolt an old Evinrude on the firewall, and use it as a fishing boat.1953 Hornet sedan Twin-H
Custom front springs, drop-blocks out back, Clifford 6-2 headers exiting out back shotgun style, Pertronix, and Flames!
1964 Chevy C-10 Longbed, 396/TH400 lowered just enough and \"easy to touch up\" Black paint.
2003 Ford Crown Victoria Police Interceptor
Caved in quarter and fender. Bad paint. Non-True-Trac heap. But it's paid for. -
Pacemaker500 wrote:I think you ought to lower it and add a hydraulic bounce kit and have it hoppin' at the car shows.
Ha! A friend of mine had also suggested that. I could roll into a show on three wheels with the left front off the ground.:eek:
By the way Royer, do you have an extra Rambler motor you could spare???:rolleyes: haha, just kidding.
But, the pick-up idea, hmmmm it's only a boat tail and if you made it a truck think of all the stuff you could haul!!! That might actually "INCREASE" the value!
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Sweet Ride!!! Just do not see many boat-tails around--you got to love them. Were it me, I'd go with the 308 with the 3 Carters, keep it "resto rod" style and add some 'tall' bright yellow Buff-lo wire wheels-blue body, black fenders, tan interior with a yellow body stripe. Just my way of moving away from "Resale Red?"Brownie
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I've got a question - you guys say that the 308 is practically a bolt-in? How much modifications are we really talking? I mean I got out the tape measure last night and measured the length of the block and space between the front crossmember and firewall of my 28 Essex coupe, and it looks like some frame "stretching" or firewall notching would be involved.
Is that totally off base?
I saw that boat tail on E-bay - hopefully someone here snags it. -
Well, I was sorta joking about the rat rod thing. I couldn't rat rod an original car that is so rare. ...BUT, if I made a copy of the car just out of new flat sheet metal?!?!:rolleyes: Now THAT I could rat rod!

Body panel number one, pretty much done.HPIM1390 (Small)_121757394748367.JPG640 x 485 - 54KHPIM1392 (Small)_121757975648367.JPG640 x 485 - 59KHPIM1393 (Small)_121758065448367.JPG640 x 485 - 60K -
Hi Bent Metal,
Nice work on the Boat Tail deck.
Peace,
Chazwww.themodernartist.com -
OH, to be able to panell beat , looks like a very nice job
Mike -
I've been messing around with this car, off and on for a little while now. Mostly taking it apart and trying to locate missing parts. Mr. Brintnall has been a fantastic help in filling in the blanks.

Still a long way to go. But it's starting to go back together, slowly.
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Mike (WA) wrote:Gorgeous work- I love seeing stuff like that.
But what's the story on the engine-turned piece that your part is laying on in the center photo? That's kind of impressive, as well.
Oh the table top, it's just an old piece of MDF with a veneer of stainless that has that pattern cut into it. I had that sitting around in my shop for a year or two. Wanted to do something with it but never came up with an idea. So, I decided to use it as a table top and it works good for that. -
Browniepetersen wrote:Sweet Ride!!! Just do not see many boat-tails around--you got to love them. Were it me, I'd go with the 308 with the 3 Carters, keep it "resto rod" style and add some 'tall' bright yellow Buff-lo wire wheels-blue body, black fenders, tan interior with a yellow body stripe. Just my way of moving away from "Resale Red?"
How about this one??
_127623209846530.jpg)
Yellow_Blue27 E Boattail (Large)_127623209846530.jpg540 x 768 - 88KDave Y
New Zealand -
I love it!!! That might be the best picture I've ever seen to show just how small these cars are.

I have some friends of mine that have no idea what a Hudson is, let alone an Essex. I've invited some into my garage to see the boat tail and I've gotten' comments from, "Is it a car? Or a boat?" to "What is it, a Volkswagon?".
A VOLKSWAGON?!?!
HAHA, that was my brother-in-law. To which I responded, "Yep, ...it's a V-dub. An old V-dub." haha, He was OK with that.
If they seem at all interested, I tell them, "think of it as the 1927 version of a Corvette. Two seater, sportscar, with no roll up windows. .... Just cool.
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very very surprised by this beauty restoration ... and sheet metal work hard to find At any place!
you must be very proud of himself.
The most good and best congratulations.
on keeping on!
Regards From Spain.1949 Hudson Commodore
1969 Seat 850 Especial
1978 Oldsmobile Cutlass supreme
1979 Buick Skyhawk
1985 Pontiac Fiero
Don't Worry... Be Happy!! -
I have always been a BIG fan of your work. I know it will not be complete by Spokane, but, what are the chances you will bring it over and let us all see how a true artist works?Brownie
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Thanks for the nice comments.

I know I always like to see what others are doing, glad to see there is interest in what I'm doing too.
I don't think this car will make the Nationals this year. But I'm pushing for it to get completed. I really like this car and I'd like to see it finished. Right now the rear fenders are almost done and we (me and my Dad) are trying to figure out species and exactly how to go about doing the wood. -
Some body mount brackets that rusted where they bolted to the wood.
I'm trying to keep as much as possible and only remake the areas that are too rusty to save. Not just remake everything.
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Started on the rear fenders. Not finished yet. Just got the worst of the rust gone.DSC01701 (Small)_127825348248367.JPG640 x 480 - 35KDSC01784 (Small)_127825764048367.JPG640 x 480 - 39K
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I'm sorta jumping around on this car. More so then I normally do, because I want to make sure all the pieces flow together when it's done. The way it's constructed is more like a carriage mixed with a car. Some of the panels are only held in with nails. Others are reinforced with wood and some with both metal and wood. It's been interesting to disect the whole thing and see how they made it.
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Finishing up the tail.DSC01783 (Small)_127970393348367.JPG640 x 480 - 53KDSC01796 (Small)_127970307948367.JPG640 x 480 - 52K
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As Lee said a pleasure to watch, it doesn't matter what project or whose car it, your quality continually shows through
I would consider selling my coupe for a 31 version of the boattail
what a cool ride stock or rodded
mike -
essexcoupe3131 wrote:As Lee said a pleasure to watch, it doesn't matter what project or whose car it, your quality continually shows through
Well thank you very much!
I do try and do a good job on whatever some one brings to me. Whether it be an unseen floor pan or a new door skin. I think it's all important, and it's all a challenge.
I would consider selling my coupe for a 31 version of the boattail
what a cool ride stock or rodded
mike
Yes, yes! My first thought with this car was, "I want it!" But my Dad didn't want to sell it so I thought I'd make one. I'd have the original apart for patterns and make something similar. Not exactly as an original. I would not want some person in the future to try and pass a copy off as an original. Also, I think it would muddy the waters (so to speak), if there was a "fake" 27 boat tail. I don't want that. So I thought I would make the copy with some changes. Something that would make it difficult to confuse with an original but still honor the original look of a '27 boat tail. I haven't really decided what to change yet though. It needs to be something that would be difficult to redo. hmmm, I don't know yet. For now I'm just going to continue with the restoration of my Dad's real boat tail and copy some, not all, of the parts for use on the other car, for me. Which doesn't exist yet. And will be a hot rod of some kind.
Anyone have any ideas of what to change? I have a few but I don't want to influence anyone's ideas. Any thoughts??
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bent metal wrote:Anyone have any ideas of what to change? I have a few but I don't want to influence anyone's ideas. Any thoughts??

How about a raised horizontal character line or two on the sides, 3-4" below the top? They would strengthen the panels a bit, set it apart, and be evocative of the "rub strips" on a real boat.Workin Stiff -
Hudson308 wrote:How about a raised horizontal character line or two on the sides, 3-4" below the top? They would strengthen the panels a bit, set it apart, and be evocative of the "rub strips" on a real boat.
Yes, that's the kind of thing I'd like to do. The raised character line would make it look like a series II. I might want to get a little more extreme then that. Or atleast make a raised line that is different than a series II. hmm
I was thinking maybe an aluminum body? Flush mount doors? Maybe section it? Or channel the body on the sides? A Du Val (spelling?) windshield? Track nose? How about under-slung? Dual side mounts? Or maybe no fenders at all?:rolleyes:hmmmm?
Looking for more ideas, and lots of them.
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The cowl.
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bent metal wrote:Yes, that's the kind of thing I'd like to do. The raised character line would make it look like a series II. I might want to get a little more extreme then that. Or atleast make a raised line that is different than a series II. hmm
I was thinking maybe an aluminum body? Flush mount doors? Maybe section it? Or channel the body on the sides? A Du Val (spelling?) windshield? Track nose? How about under-slung? Dual side mounts? Or maybe no fenders at all?:rolleyes:hmmmm?
Looking for more ideas, and lots of them. 
You have alot of good ideas here to work with. I hesitate some on the track nose. I've seen them on several cars but somehow they never look quit right. They flow well on a race car but on a car they look like an add on. The front of a Hudson deserves more character.
With your eye and skill I believe you could pull that one off and make it look right. However you decide to do it, it will be an outstanding piece of art.
Looking forward to seeing it in the future. Lee -
bent metal wrote:Yes, that's the kind of thing I'd like to do. The raised character line would make it look like a series II. I might want to get a little more extreme then that. Or atleast make a raised line that is different than a series II. hmm
I was thinking maybe an aluminum body? Flush mount doors? Maybe section it? Or channel the body on the sides? A Du Val (spelling?) windshield? Track nose? How about under-slung? Dual side mounts? Or maybe no fenders at all?:rolleyes:hmmmm?
Looking for more ideas, and lots of them. 
As we all know, opinions are like... uh... belly buttons. We've all got one, but most of 'em stink. Be that as it may, I agree with Lee that a stock (or stock-like) grille shell would work better on a boat tail than a track nose. One of the things I really like about your work is that you typically don't add an "in-your-face" modification just to show you can do it. Most of the changes are so subtle you don't notice what's done without a second closer look. Do some of that here and you can tell the bolt-spotters it's the Canadian-built version. Yeah, that's it. The Canadian version.
Workin Stiff -
Okay, the track nose is out. You hit the nail on the head when you said "just to see if you can do it". I've never made one of those, and I want to see if I can do it.
Actually I'm sure I could make one. Perhaps this is not the right car for that. I agree.
Most of the ideas I threw out there were just ideas. Nothing decided on at all. Actually, most cars I look at and think...hmm, that would look better if it was a little longer here, or shorter, or taller there. But this one I really haven't seen anything that jumps out at me that looks bad. Not yet. Maybe the only thing is that I'd like to see the body go down a little bit and maybe the fenders a little higher? I don't know?? Just an idea.
Check list:
1. No track nose.
Maybe list:
1. Lambo doors.
haha, just kidding.
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She's lookin' really good, bentmetal. I didn't really realize how small these cars were till that vintage pic got posted in this thread. Is yours the same size? Looks like a 3/4 car.
As far as ideas go, here's a few to muddy the waters:
1. I like the idea of "rub rails" down the length of the body, but I would go no more than about 2" from the top of the body. Have the rail itself about 1-1/4" to 1-1/2" wide.
2. Lengthen the body! It will look sleeker and more streamlined with some more length, particularly longer doors, which will make access much easier. Don't know without looking it up, but what is the wheelbase on these cars? I think you should shoot for the 106" to 110" length.
3. Speaking of sleeker, the back deck always looks better when the rear point really tapers down towards that bottom panel and the "sides" of the rear of the car aren't as tall. Something to think about.
4. As far as the front, have you thought about maybe incorporating a '36-'37 style Hudson or Terraplane grille, but shortened? Shoot the style into the '30's era as opposed to the '20's era. Just a thought, I know how you like the '20's style racers.
5. Duvall windshield is a no-brainer, but needs a soft top that is removeable. A nice and short Duvall-style would be best. 10-12" would keep the Hudson theme going. Speaking of that, if you end up making one, I want one, too.
6. No spare on the rear!
7. Fuel tank inside the "tail". Clean look for the rear of the car. A rolled rear pan or maybe even vintage bumpers would be a nice touch.
8. Suicide doors that aren't just square, need some shape to the corners, particularly at the rear.
9. What about peaked front fenders? Pontoon-style? Challenge for the metal-master who knows it all.
Well, food for thought, anyway . . . -
RL Chilton wrote:She's lookin' really good, bentmetal. I didn't really realize how small these cars were till that vintage pic got posted in this thread. Is yours the same size? Looks like a 3/4 car.
As far as ideas go, here's a few to muddy the waters:
1. I like the idea of "rub rails" down the length of the body, but I would go no more than about 2" from the top of the body. Have the rail itself about 1-1/4" to 1-1/2" wide.
2. Lengthen the body! It will look sleeker and more streamlined with some more length, particularly longer doors, which will make access much easier. Don't know without looking it up, but what is the wheelbase on these cars? I think you should shoot for the 106" to 110" length.
3. Speaking of sleeker, the back deck always looks better when the rear point really tapers down towards that bottom panel and the "sides" of the rear of the car aren't as tall. Something to think about.
4. As far as the front, have you thought about maybe incorporating a '36-'37 style Hudson or Terraplane grille, but shortened? Shoot the style into the '30's era as opposed to the '20's era. Just a thought, I know how you like the '20's style racers.
5. Duvall windshield is a no-brainer, but needs a soft top that is removeable. A nice and short Duvall-style would be best. 10-12" would keep the Hudson theme going. Speaking of that, if you end up making one, I want one, too.
6. No spare on the rear!
7. Fuel tank inside the "tail". Clean look for the rear of the car. A rolled rear pan or maybe even vintage bumpers would be a nice touch.
8. Suicide doors that aren't just square, need some shape to the corners, particularly at the rear.
9. What about peaked front fenders? Pontoon-style? Challenge for the metal-master who knows it all.
Well, food for thought, anyway . . .
I'm with ya Russell on everything but #4, as if my opinion is worth a shilling. And number 5 could be a fiberglass lift-off that looks like fabric.
Nobody else? All we hear is crickets.
Okay, then... how about reversed-slide Kaiser Darrin doors? Operation would be opposite of the side doors on a minivan. The panel would drop "in" (instead of popping "out") when the latch is released, then slide back into the tail sides on a track. Engineering would be a challenge without a top track, but the tiny door size and weight would help. By extending the internal framework of the door to the rear, two rollers at the top and two at the bottom could ride in hidden tracks behind body side panels.
Just to show you could do it. :eek:Workin Stiff -
52Stude wrote:if it were me and I had any possibility of being able to do it...I would build a perfect replica, only about 25% larger than the original, that is selfish because I am fachubby as my kids call it! lol
These things do look like they're 3/4 scale.Workin Stiff -
Its a boat-tail - make it into a amphibious vehicle. There wouldnt be another one like it
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I was looking at this web site last night that listed mostly pre-1930 cars.
List of defunct United States automobile manufacturers
On the right side of the page, as you scroll down, are a few car pictures. One that caught my eye that seems to go along with some of your suggestions , is a low body/high fenders, 1913 American Underslung.
There must be a couple of hundred, or more, cars listed. Unfortunately not all the names have a picture posted with it.
This site might be helpful, seeing the different styles.
Lee -
As far as boat-tails go, I've always been partial to the Auburn Speedsters, hence my suggestions.
The Kaiser-Darrin sliding doors would be a pretty neat option! I always liked those cars and wondered why more hot-rodders didn't try to emulate that unique aspect. Tracks would certainly be trickier than butt hinges, but hey, that's part of the challenge. . . . neat cars, though. There were only like 435 of them made, and they were terribly under-powered, although I never got to drive one. Have been fortunate to see 12 or 15 of them in my lifetime, probably (mostly at auctions).
Still partial to suicides, but interesting thought! -
I saw one of those last October at the Orphan Car Show, coolest doors I've ever seen! That would be trick, looking at the car one wonders how they ever got them fitted, but they did.
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RL Chilton wrote:
Yes! That's what I was hoping for, ideas. I can't use them all but I knew you guys would think of things that I would not have. That's awesome!She's lookin' really good, bentmetal. I didn't really realize how small these cars were till that vintage pic got posted in this thread. Is yours the same size? Looks like a 3/4 car.
As far as ideas go, here's a few to muddy the waters:
1. I like the idea of "rub rails" down the length of the body, but I would go no more than about 2" from the top of the body. Have the rail itself about 1-1/4" to 1-1/2" wide. Hmm, wide body line? Hadn't thought of that. Sorta' like a '29? hmm. Maybe.
2. Lengthen the body! It will look sleeker and more streamlined with some more length, particularly longer doors, which will make access much easier. Don't know without looking it up, but what is the wheelbase on these cars? I think you should shoot for the 106" to 110" length.I think that would be a good idea too. Maybe make the door a little longer in the back and the part of the body behind the door a little shorter. So the overall length is the same, but the door is longer?
3. Speaking of sleeker, the back deck always looks better when the rear point really tapers down towards that bottom panel and the "sides" of the rear of the car aren't as tall. Something to think about.That would look good too. Perhaps make the body an inch or so lower and the fenders an inch or so taller? I'd also like to make the whole thing lower. At first I wanted it underslung. But then I wouldn't be able to use the rear pan. Which was too much work to just use as a wall hanger. I want to use it on the car.
4. As far as the front, have you thought about maybe incorporating a '36-'37 style Hudson or Terraplane grille, but shortened? Shoot the style into the '30's era as opposed to the '20's era. Just a thought, I know how you like the '20's style racers.Haha, your right! I do like the twenties style racers. But that's another project that's on my some day list. Actually so is the '36-7 grill. The praying mantis grill and the twenties racer are both good ideas for a different car. One thing I don't want to do is lose the primitive style of the original car. If you look at the pointed tail piece that I made you'll see that I made the rib detail "in" the panel. Instead of a bolt on piece like it was originally. The idea was to give it a more thirties look. But after it was made I didn't like it. I think it's going away too far from the original design. It's losing it's primitive charm. ...I think. I'd like to keep the changes subtle, maybe changes more in proportions rather than big design changes? ??I don't know.
5. Duvall windshield is a no-brainer, but needs a soft top that is removeable. A nice and short Duvall-style would be best. 10-12" would keep the Hudson theme going. Speaking of that, if you end up making one, I want one, too.Okay, sounds good.
Once we get the ideas nailed down I think a drawing, nothing fancy, just a sketch should be done to see if it all looks good together. What year were the Duvall cars made? For some reason I think of them being an early thirties kind of thing.
6. No spare on the rear!Agreed! I want to see the tail, not the tire. Hmm, what about a bumper?
7. Fuel tank inside the "tail". Clean look for the rear of the car. A rolled rear pan or maybe even vintage bumpers would be a nice touch.Ha, your one step ahead of me with the bumper! If the tank was in the tail the filler would be in the center, up on top of the tail. Like a sprint car. But, the flat tail pan already has a cut out for the gas tank filler. If we went that route some thing else would need to go in that cut out. Have to think about that. One thing about this era is that they seem to be funtional more than looks oriented. So gas tank fillers would stick out, rather than shaved. You would see bolt and screws rather than hidden fasteners. I wouldn't want to lose too much of that "feel", or "charm", whatever you want to call it.
8. Suicide doors that aren't just square, need some shape to the corners, particularly at the rear.Do you mean a tilted straight line, or a curve? I know I would like to see them flush mount. I was thinking curved in the front and suicide?
9. What about peaked front fenders? Pontoon-style? Challenge for the metal-master who knows it all.
I'd have to see a drawing of that. It might push the overall look too far into the thirties? Not sure.
Well, food for thought, anyway . . .
I never would of thought of the sliding doors either. Very interesting thought. If some thought was put into it, it could work on this project. I would want it to fit in with everything else though. That might be tough to do. I don't really want to modernize the car. I'm more thinking along the lines of "what would they have done" back then, if they could tweak it just a little bit? -
I thought I might put everything together a little bit and see how it looks.DSC01821 (Small)_128095228248367.JPG640 x 480 - 54KDSC01819 (Small)_128095585248367.JPG640 x 480 - 58K
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Some things to ....um, look forward to?
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2. Lengthen the body! It will look sleeker and more streamlined with some more length, particularly longer doors, which will make access much easier. Don't know without looking it up, but what is the wheelbase on these cars? I think you should shoot for the 106" to 110" length.I think that would be a good idea too. Maybe make the door a little longer in the back and the part of the body behind the door a little shorter. So the overall length is the same, but the door is longer?
In my 28 Essex Coupe the hinge of the suicide door is just rear of the back of the seat so no opportunity to lengthen the door rearwards & the dash sets the front of the door.Dave Y
New Zealand


