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In this Discussion
- 46HudsonPU March 2009
- bent metal November 2011
- essexcoupe3131 April 2012
- Hudson308 April 2009
- hudsonkid June 2008
- jsrail May 2009
- Kevin C. May 2009
- lostmind November 2011
- mrsbojigger April 2009
- Ol racer June 2008
- Projekt February 2009
- rambos_ride April 2009
- RL Chilton June 2008
- Ron P February 2009
- roy chapin April 2012
- SRCraftsman2 March 2009
- Tom Drew January 2009
- topsgtsarg October 2008
- VicTor Z November 2011
- willy74 February 2009
- wkitchens June 2008
suicide solution
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If you got a 47' and don't want to see that bottom hinge sticking out,...suicide doors might be your solution. I always forget to take before and in process pictures. But, here's a few. About half way through.
This gave me an idea. Hey "Ron P", how about lambo doors on your twenty-nine?
HPIM1173 (Small)_121381272648367.JPG640 x 485 - 63KHPIM1257 (Small)_121381708448367.JPG640 x 485 - 67KHPIM1263 (Small)_121382410348367.JPG640 x 485 - 74KHPIM1265 (Small)_121381306348367.JPG640 x 485 - 63K -
The reason I had to widen the jamb is to fit the big hinges. They are the heavy duty ones from Auto lock, don't even get me started on that! Very dissapointing.HPIM1294 (Small)_121382054348367.JPG640 x 485 - 70KHPIM1295 (Small)_121381571448367.JPG640 x 485 - 65K
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Thanks, it's taking a little longer then I planned. I wasn't expecting to have to remake the jamb area. Got a lot more to do too, fill the cowl vent, de-chrome, make new running boards (this car had the interrior kind) lots to do.
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Nice work - that body style lends itself to installation of that style hinge and will have a nice clean look.
Did you make the pockets and hinges or get a kit? -
bent metal wrote:Thanks, it's taking a little longer then I planned. I wasn't expecting to have to remake the jamb area. Got a lot more to do too, fill the cowl vent, de-chrome, make new running boards (this car had the interrior kind) lots to do.

I think I have heard them words before ?? Its taking longer then I thought ???? LOL. I am putting the Lambo doors on hold for now on my 29
Nice work Perry II . -
rambos_ride wrote:Nice work - that body style lends itself to installation of that style hinge and will have a nice clean look.
Did you make the pockets and hinges or get a kit?
They're the 'heavy duty' hinges from auto loc. It's a kit, you get the hinges and a 'c' channel piece that the hinge bolts to.
Hey Ron, not ALL of the jobs take longer, just most of them. lol The spare tire thingy I did for Richard E. was a lot quicker then I thought it would be.
:D -
Yep, nice work. You are not the first I've heard to complain about Auto Loc. I for one will not do business with them again.
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RL Chilton wrote:Yep, nice work. You are not the first I've heard to complain about Auto Loc. I for one will not do business with them again.
What happened with your deal?
I bought some hinges from them YEARS AGO, and they were good. The hinges that I got this time seem to be put together in haste. I had to send some of the parts back and have them replaced with new ones. A shame really because I thought they had some good products back a few years ago. Now, I think they're just subbing out stuff to China.
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This is that bracket installed. Probably not totally needed, but it can't hurt.....hmmm, geez I take bad photos.
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Put some bear claw latches in. They went in easier then the hinges. Now she's off to the sand blaster and when she comes back, that's when the serious cutting and welding will happen.
Kind of looks cool with no wind wings, in my opinion. HPIM1333 (Small)_121484872648367.JPG640 x 485 - 61KHPIM1334 (Small)_121484434448367.JPG640 x 485 - 57KHPIM1336 (Small)_121485832248367.JPG640 x 485 - 70K -
Shaved the handles & putting-in 'poppers'? Electric Windows too?
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46HudsonPU wrote:Shaved the handles & putting-in 'poppers'? Electric Windows too?
Yeah, the handles are gone and it needs poppers your right. Those latches have a spring in there that open the door a little bit but poppers would be better. It will have electric windows and AC, notice the cowl vent is filled. I forgot to take pictures of that, and the trunk is de-chromed (no handle). This car used to have the internal running boards, notice the oval holes in front of the rear fenders? That's what those are from. The guy wants me to make external running boards like a truck but smooth. ...I think when it comes back from the sand blaster the rust in this thing is going to be extensive. It doesn't look good from what I've seen so far. -
bent metal wrote:Yeah, the handles are gone and it needs poppers your right. Those latches have a spring in there that open the door a little bit but poppers would be better. It will have electric windows and AC, notice the cowl vent is filled. I forgot to take pictures of that, and the trunk is de-chromed (no handle). This car used to have the internal running boards, notice the oval holes in front of the rear fenders? That's what those are from. The guy wants me to make external running boards like a truck but smooth. ...I think when it comes back from the sand blaster the rust in this thing is going to be extensive. It doesn't look good from what I've seen so far.
'BM' - Sounds like you doing it all...
I also see that the 'wing windows' appear to be gone too.
Am VERY interested in ALL aspects of this customization (pictures, details, parts used, problems & solutions, etc...) - as I will be going through this with my pickup project... However at this point don't plan to 'suicide' the doors - Please keep me/us posted! -
46HudsonPU wrote:'BM' - Sounds like you doing it all...
I also see that the 'wing windows' appear to be gone too.
Am VERY interested in ALL aspects of this customization (pictures, details, parts used, problems & solutions, etc...) - as I will be going through this with my pickup project... However at this point don't plan to 'suicide' the doors - Please keep me/us posted!
Feel free to ask me anything or suggest different ways of doing what I'm doing. More than one way to skin a cat, that's for sure. Since you mentioned your truck, I am probably going to do another stretch cab truck before I finish this car. Maybe start it right after I get back from the Nationals. So what all are you planning to do with your truck? -
bent metal wrote:Feel free to ask me anything or suggest different ways of doing what I'm doing. More than one way to skin a cat, that's for sure. Since you mentioned your truck, I am probably going to do another stretch cab truck before I finish this car. Maybe start it right after I get back from the Nationals. So what all are you planning to do with your truck?
Frame-off resto-mod with the tan '46 I am currently working-on. Electric windows, air, buckets, basic stereo w/CD changer, 5.3L Vortec/4L60E with 3.5-3.73 rear. Am also considering shaving the doors as well. The car you are working-on looks much more solid than this tan truck...
The '39 Hudson Model 90 112 is a pretty rare truck, and REALLY want to keep it 'stock' if at all possible. I am doing little with it at present, with the exception of cleaning it up and a bit of basic parts preservation and removal. Hopefully before winter I wll pull the engine/trans, to see what I've got & what needs to be done. Earlier this spring, I picked up a '39 175 cu in engine from NC, along with a front grille & radiator - I even managed to get some of the stainless trim I need.
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FYI
Since going to electric windows I suggest eliminating the wing (vent) windows by running U-channel track all the way from side to side then make a cardboard pattern to cut out the new 1 pc Glass.
I did it in my '47 pickup and it was easier than inserting the rear window glass........ -
Ol racer wrote:FYI
Since going to electric windows I suggest eliminating the wing (vent) windows by running U-channel track all the way from side to side then make a cardboard pattern to cut out the new 1 pc Glass.
I did it in my '47 pickup and it was easier than inserting the rear window glass........
You've read my mind... That appears to be the way to go, when converting from manual to electric. However I will need to make sure that the 'air' kit includes the heater/defroster options... -
She is back from the blaster and it looks like their will be a lot to fix. But, not so bad. Check out the front end, and rear that No Limit put in, nice!
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Very nice work dude! Thanks for the pics. I'm really interested in your rear end set-up. Are those homemade bars on it? I want to do an airbag rear-end set-up on my '50 Coupe.
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I don't know if the bars are hand made or what. I only do sheet metal, the front and rear frame work was done thru "Mueller's Muscle Cars" in Southern California. Here are a few more pictures for you.
DSC00298 (Small)_121978891848367.JPG640 x 480 - 66KDSC00310 (Small)_121978926748367.JPG640 x 480 - 67K -
Rear floor is in.

47 floors 006_122167377748367.jpg373 x 280 - 50K
47 floors 008_122167576148367.jpg373 x 280 - 52K
47 floors 009_122168117448367.jpg373 x 280 - 57K -
Front floors, too much rust to just patch. But, the owner wants me to keep it simple, nothing fancy.
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A little bit custom, not much. The trans cover is an inch higher then stock, nothing fancy.
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Would of looked better with ribs that lined up with the original floors and a removable trans cover. Also recessed body mount holes and tig welded instead of wire welded would of been better. hmmm, maybe something like this. ....DSC00323 (Small)_122201663048367.JPG640 x 480 - 88KDSC00331 (Small)_122198568348367.JPG640 x 480 - 57KDSC00332 (Small)_122199043348367.JPG640 x 480 - 62KDSC00334 (Small)_122197977548367.JPG640 x 480 - 51K
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But those are much too pretty to actually weld into a car
:rolleyes:
I think you should have gave the customer the line from Tommy Boy...
Customer: But why do they put a guarantee on the box?
BentMetal: Because they know all they sold ya was a guaranteed piece of ****. That's all it is, isn't it? Hey, if you want me to take a dump in a box and mark it guaranteed, I will. I got spare time. But for now, for your customer's sake, for your daughter's sake, ya might wanna think about buying a quality product from me.
Really nice quality work on those floor pans - I need some inner side door bottoms and rocker panels for the 49... -
Rambo's Ride, can you send me pictures of what you are needing? I have patched rockers before, it's a lot less work if the outside edges are pretty good and you just need to make patch in the middle somewhere. Also, if you need something on the doors I would need a pretty good pattern. All my step downs are two doors, I know yours is a four door.
Thanks for the nice words, I think quality is important. I know you do too I've seen your work, nice. Although it's been a while, when are you going to back on that car again? I know we ALL want to see pictures.
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bent metal wrote:Rambo's Ride, can you send me pictures of what you are needing? I have patched rockers before, it's a lot less work if the outside edges are pretty good and you just need to make patch in the middle somewhere. Also, if you need something on the doors I would need a pretty good pattern. All my step downs are two doors, I know yours is a four door.
Thanks for the nice words, I think quality is important. I know you do too I've seen your work, nice. Although it's been a while, when are you going to back on that car again? I know we ALL want to see pictures.
I'll ping you offline about the doors...the rockers are just something that someone needs to reproduce
I've though about how to do the rockers now for quite awhile. The stepdown rockers are always rusted, maybe even more than floorpans(?) - given that, and the length of the items - it's difficult to find/ship them in good shape and without damage.
I thought rather than try to build a single piece rocker as stock; If one would be better to build a 2 piece replacement that could be welded together to adjust for varying lengths (2-4dr) and then sell single halves for partial replacements.
There's also a sheet metal piece that goes between the rocker and the body tub that the door sill mounts over...that would be a good part to reproduce too
When will I get working on a car again? ...umm...soon I hope? :rolleyes:
(effen' getting old(er) sux! ) I was trying to put the "big push" to finish the shop last week and I kinda overdid things to a point I re-aggravated some recent injuries and had to back off on the shop for a couple of days and now this week work has been intruding on my "free" time again.
Now that my webs. are backup I'll get some pics of the shop where it's at right now... -
Fill the filler and lets make some running boards, oh, and rockers too.
....Both have reverses! Fun fun fun.
DSC00297 (Small)_122416791848367.JPG640 x 480 - 39KDSC00355 (Small)_122416141748367.JPG640 x 480 - 32KDSC00354 (Small)_122416625048367.JPG640 x 480 - 37KDSC00372 (Small)_122417394348367.JPG640 x 480 - 45K -
Bent M - Looks nice! Especially interested in those running boards...
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46HudsonPU wrote:Bent M - Looks nice! Especially interested in those running boards...

Those running boards are going to be a little tricky. Notice that the mounts are for the 'internal' style and shorter than the truck/external type. Not sure what I'm going to do there yet. Maybe extend them? What do you guys think? I think I'm also going to round off the ends where they meet up with the fenders, sorta like the originals did. The only problem there is that I still need to widen the rear fenders an inch, sooo maybe I'll leave the back straight and just round off the front?....Any ideas?
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bent metal wrote:
Either way you mount them, they will need some pretty stiff bracing & support (some of 'us folks' are pretty hefty...). Is there a third 'tab', not shown in the picture (close to the front fender)? Those are pretty long running boards for just a couple of fastening points...Those running boards are going to be a little tricky. Notice that the mounts are for the 'internal' style and shorter than the truck/external type. Not sure what I'm going to do there yet. Maybe extend them? What do you guys think? I think I'm also going to round off the ends where they meet up with the fenders, sorta like the originals did. The only problem there is that I still need to widen the rear fenders an inch, sooo maybe I'll leave the back straight and just round off the front?....Any ideas?
I would extend them out, and probably tie them into some type of lengthwise bracing (underneath, not seen) as well - notice the 'treads'/ribbing in the original? Are the boards going to remain 'smooth'? The ribbing/treads on the originals probably add quite quite a bit of rigidity to them. If going with the smooth look, you may need to consider some type of bracing underneath to reduce or eliminate potential flexing.
What are your thoughts on a 'finish' for the running boards? Paint, powdercoat? These being 'running boards', and more than a bit pronounced, they will probably be used as such. The originals had a rubber covering - Any thoughts as to coating them with a spray-on/brush-on bed liner? - Don't forget, that stuff comes in a wide variety of colors, textures, etc., nowadays.
Just some thoughts... :o :rolleyes: -
Another problem I have with this project is I can't just do whatever I want. I'm working for someone, so I only have a limited amount of say as to what goes on here. You make a good point about the third brace, there is "NOT" a third brace, only two. Also now that the doors are suicide, the place where you would most likely step to get in is exactly where the biggest gap in the bracing is! To make it worse, I understand the owner is a big guy. ...As for bracing running long ways under the running board, the original "internal" type running boards had that. I think that's a good idea. The boss on this job has instructed me to not get too fancy;):rolleyes: that the running boards will be painted and smooth, purely decorative. That been said, I'd like to make them strong enough that if someone did step on them once in a while they wouldn't bend or dent. hmmm I dont' know.
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Is the interior going to have woodgrain?
How about a nice stong mounting system, those smooth running boards with a wood inlay or cap? -
bent metal wrote:
Got it going yet?They're the 'heavy duty' hinges from auto loc. It's a kit, you get the hinges and a 'c' channel piece that the hinge bolts to.
Hey Ron, not ALL of the jobs take longer, just most of them. lol The spare tire thingy I did for Richard E. was a lot quicker then I thought it would be.
:D
Is it time for new pictures?
How much is the hinge kit? -
topsgtsarg wrote:Got it going yet?
Is it time for new pictures?
How much is the hinge kit?
This project is pretty much where it looks in the last (running board) photos. Those pictures are only a few days old.
The hinges were three or four hundred plus the bear claws. I'm not sure exactly how much because the boss supplied them to me.
So give me a week or so and I'll have more pictures.
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Running board fit up.DSC00434_122871846448367.JPG369 x 276 - 44KDSC00435_122872033748367.JPG369 x 276 - 46KDSC00438_122873380748367.JPG369 x 276 - 59K
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One more pic.DSC00436_122872041848367.JPG369 x 276 - 45K
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Rounded the front of the running board. Didn't look right straight.DSC00473_123186123848367.JPG369 x 276 - 49KDSC00475_123186132748367.JPG369 x 276 - 49K
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Come on, no comments? Good or bad, lets hear some feed back. I know I'm not expert on metal shaping. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
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bent metal wrote:Come on, no comments? Good or bad, lets hear some feed back. I know I'm not expert on metal shaping. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

Paint it already!
Does the customer want them smooth?
I'd probably want to add some ribs in the top. -
bent metal wrote:Come on, no comments? Good or bad, lets hear some feed back. I know I'm not expert on metal shaping. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

It is difficult to offer suggestions when you know you can not do that quality of work. Don't stop posting pictures if there is no immediate response. A lot of us enjoy watching a craftsman perform work we cannot accomplish and our praise is silent awe. -
SRCraftsman2 wrote:
Ditto!It is difficult to offer suggestions when you know you can not do that quality of work. Don't stop posting pictures if there is no immediate response. A lot of us enjoy watching a craftsman perform work we cannot accomplish and our praise is silent awe.
I read every update, and am always amazed at the quality and thought that goes into the work you do. Just wish you were about 3000 miles closer...
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Bent metal -
Really great work, curving the ends of the running boards is a really nice solution. I'm ready to start rust repair on my '46 Pickup and your work is a great inspiration.
What thickness of metal do you recommend for replacing sections of the fenders, doors, and hood? 20 Gauge? And how about floor repair and the pickup bed? Would these be 16 Gauge? Any thoughts would be most appreciated.
Tom -
Thanks guys!
I thought no one was even looking at my posts. It's nice to know that other people are interested in what I'm doing. 
The running boards are going to stay smooth. Plus they're 16 gauge, I'd rather not shape metal that thick. The guy I'm doing this for tends to build his cars sorta' 80's style. Boyd style I guess you would say. So he will have some chrome but mostly shaved and smoothed. Then when you open the hood it will be all polished aluminum, I'm sure.
As for that truck project and what metal thickness to use. I always measure what the original metal was. Usually the fenders and body are 19 gauge (.040). But don't just go down to your metal supplier and ask for that. Take something to measure with and make sure you get .040, give or take a few thousands. Some suppliers have large tolerances as to what they can call a certain gauge. Like my local supplier, he doesn't have odd number gauge material. Only even numbers and his thickness tolerances actually overlap. So what he sells as 18 is actually 19. When I went in to order 19 they told me there is no such thing as 19 gauge, only 18 or 20. I had to go in their yard and measure it myself. In my opinion that's dishonest, they charge more for what they are "calling" thicker material. Even though it's NOT the thicker material.
As for your bed, they used a couple different thicknesses. Depending on what area you are working on. I would find a good spot to measure whatever area you are in and match that. I assume you are aware that you can get a real nice tail gate from Glenn Johnson and someone in Canada makes running boards that look super nice too. -
The door bottoms are ready to be welded on. .....FINALLY!
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Another view.DSC00482_123211959148367.JPG369 x 276 - 52K
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bent metal wrote:Come on, no comments? Good or bad, lets hear some feed back. I know I'm not expert on metal shaping. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

"Not expert on metal shaping", huh? Wish I had your level of "inexperience". :rolleyes:
I think Sam Foose (Chip's dad) once told him "It's what you learn AFTER you know everything that counts!
Workin Stiff -
I have been doing some inner-structure stuff that wouldn't make for very interesting pictures. But, here's an update. Patched the old bottom hinge area,.....DSC00455_123394799648367.JPG369 x 276 - 53KDSC00503_123395096348367.JPG369 x 276 - 55K
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The "A" pillar was rusted out in an area that I thought was strange.
Ever wonder what the inside of the "A" pillar looks like?:rolleyes: ...Me neither, but here it is anyway.
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