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In this Discussion
- 66patrick66 December 2007
- mhulse December 2007
1966 Valiant: Worth buying?
-
Hi, first time here... Hope this is the right place to ask this question... I could really use some experienced viewpoints.
First, I know more about body work than engine work, but I am willing to learn.
I have always wanted a good project car...
- Would you suggest a 1966 Valiant?
- In general, are Valiants good auto's to own/drive/maintain/restore?
This looks like a cool place, I am looking forward to reading/learning from ya'll.
Many thanks!
Cheers,
M - Would you suggest a 1966 Valiant?
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The little A-body Valiants are about the easiest car around to work on! Mechanical parts are plentiful. Interiors are being reproduced by Legendary, among other sources. Trim is tough to come by. Body-wise, look for potential rot in the front framerails (this is a unibody car), trunk extensions, rear wheel wells and lips, and around the trunk lid.
From the doors forward (and the chassis pan and rear suspension) they are identical to the same-year Barracuda, so any small-block V-8 or Mopar Six (170/198/225) is a bolt-in swap.
I've owned quite a few Mopar A-body cars. From the timeframe you are interested in, I've owned the following: 1963 Valiant 4-dr 225 3-spd manual; 1965 Barracuda 273 auto; 1966 Valiant Signet hardtop 273 auto; 1966 Barracuda 273 4-speed; 1965 Dart S/W 198 3-spd; 1966 Dart GT 225 auto.
There are some really nice Valiants and Darts out there. Take your time and you'll find what you are looking for."The time has come", the Walrus said, "to speak of many things. Of shoes and ships and sealing wax, of cabbages and kings. And why the sea is boiling hot,
And whether pigs have wings..." -
Hi 66patrick66, thanks for you quick reply! I really appreciate all of the information and tips.
I am excited to hear all of your positive feedback about the Valiant... I am glad to hear that finding parts is not a problem.
I find older cars (like the valiant) very appealing. I am excited to learn more about the mechanics -- it will be a nice break from my computer-based job.
The list of your previously owned cars is an impressive one. I would love to have experienced all of those cars!
One other question... How does one factor-in mileage when it comes to older cars?
Again, many thanks 66patrick66!
Cheers,
Micky -
IMO, condition trumps mileage when it comes to older cars. I've seen cars with fewer than 5K miles require a ground-up resto, and also 200-300K mile cars that needed cosmetics only.
Location is another biggie. A car that has spent its life in the Rust Belt is worth far less than a good, solid Southern, Western car, or a Southwestern car. you might find a "bargain" in, say, Illinois or Ohio that needs lots of attention on the body, and a decent car in Arizona or Nevada, but the car out West is 2,000 miles away and the Ohio car is 20 miles away. You're likely money ahead spending the money to ship the car that is from the West than "saving" that money and spending it (and more!) replacing rusted panels and floors on the Ohio car. I'd rather find a solid, non-running body with a good title anyday over a good runner with a crap body!"The time has come", the Walrus said, "to speak of many things. Of shoes and ships and sealing wax, of cabbages and kings. And why the sea is boiling hot,
And whether pigs have wings..." -
66patrick66 wrote:IMO, condition trumps mileage when it comes to older cars. I've seen cars with fewer than 5K miles require a ground-up resto, and also 200-300K mile cars that needed cosmetics only.
Ah, more good info. Thank you.
66patrick66 wrote:...<snip>... I'd rather find a solid, non-running body with a good title anyday over a good runner with a crap body!
For sure, that makes a lot of sense to me. I am in Oregon, so it does get a bit rainy during the winter... We mostly put down gravel for ice/snow... No salt here... Well, we also do spray a chemical for snow, but I do not think it is terribly corrosive.
Thanks again for all the tips Patrick, you have been extremely helpful. I appreciate all of the help.
Have a great night/day.
Cheers,
M -
Magnesium Chloride is terrible on cars, more so than salt, but it's allegedly "better" for the environment than salt is.
Lots of nice cars in the high desert of OR/WA/ID, as well as NV/UT/CO/WY. Good luck in your search!"The time has come", the Walrus said, "to speak of many things. Of shoes and ships and sealing wax, of cabbages and kings. And why the sea is boiling hot,
And whether pigs have wings..." -
66patrick66 wrote:Magnesium Chloride is terrible on cars, more so than salt, but it's allegedly "better" for the environment than salt is.
What! No way... That sucks... And I thought we used the Magnesium Chloride because it was better for the cars... Hehe, I should have known better.
66patrick66 wrote:Lots of nice cars in the high desert of OR/WA/ID, as well as NV/UT/CO/WY. Good luck in your search!
Great tips! Thanks again, I really appreciate it. I am trying to not feel rushed... I really want to make sure I find a good deal.
Thanks again Patrick, I really appreciate the help.
Cheers,
Micky
