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Slow cranking 40
  • redron
    Posts: 25Greasemonkey
    I have a 1940 model 1801. The car does not overheat and cranks great when first started. After 20 to 30 miles when I try to start it, it cranks real slow - almost like the battery is dying. I've been told this is common with the old 6 volt systems and also that the problem is the started needs rebuilt. Help who's right?
  • BigKev
    Posts: 4Hitchhiker
    After the engine cools down does it then restart quickly again? Sometimes the starter can act like this when they are getting heatsoaked by the engine. This happens more when the starter is old. A rebuild may help with the problem. If it persists, then a heat shield also will work.
  • redron
    Posts: 25Greasemonkey
    BigKev thanks for the reply. I'll try the heat shield first. If it solves the problem I will then rebuild it. I have no way of telling how old it is.

    Thanks

    Redron
  • redron
    Posts: 25Greasemonkey
    UP DATE - the heat shield did not help at all. I put on a rebuilt starter, solenoid, and spring - nothing. When the engine is Warm I had to give it a shot of starter fluid to get it started or wait 2 hours for it to cool down all the way. I was afraid to drive it any where.

    Thanks to a friend in Washington we eliminated the problem 1 step at a time. First I noticed the auto choke wasn't attached to anything. After a few trips to the hardware store and a little futzing I got it hooked up and adjusted.

    The car is new to me, it came from Ohio. The former owner or his mechanic had the fuel mixture screws open so far because the choke wasn't working so it would start great when cold. Unfortunately once the car warmed up and was turned off, there was so much fuel - it drowned the plugs. I adjusted the mixture and the car now starts cold or warm and now I'm in heaven. Cruising the boulevard and turning heads. I also replaced the battery with a new 6 volt Optima. Thats one cranking battery.

    I Just wanted to thank everyone here for their input

    redron
  • 5582LS
    Posts: 3Hitchhiker
    I bought my '55 Patrician for a long-term project and daily driver. Unfortunately, my business keeps me out of town for extended periods of time and I've had to farm out a good deal of the work on it. I decided to put an Edelbrock Performer carb with an electric choke on it whilst trying to get the Rochester 4CG lined out properly (and because I wanted to DRIVE it). Bought the carb, adapter plate, etc and left it with mechanic. When I got home I picked it up and it would start, cold, fine and run until it got warm. When I got it home in the driveway, it took me about thirty minutes to figure out that the vacuum line going to distributor timing retard was on the wrong carb outlet and that they'd tinkered with the timing and the carb adjustments long enough to get the thing to start and run cold. With timing retarded a bit, vacuum line on the right hole so that vacuum retard worked and the electric choke adjusted just a little, it runs great. (Rochester is rebuilt, correctly, now and ready to go back on when I've got the time).



    Problem is that most modern day, "mechanics," have never worked on anything but (computer controlled) fuel injection systems and (maybe a few) throttle bodies. Most do not understand how basic, old-fashioned carburetors work, let alone manual/electric/heat/vacuum operated chokes, or that there were once other methods of retarding and advancing spark than with computer control modules. This guy had connected the wire for my electric choke but the purpose of the little black cap covering the choke adjustment had completely escaped him as had several other things. It wasn't really his fault. He THOUGHT that he was a, "mechanic," and - by modern standards - he probably is.