ClassicCar

Roger, all the bolts have washers. I'll number the valves anyway just in case the guides are OK and the valves will go back where the belong, better safe than sorry. Thanks Roger. Richie

Great idea, thanks Alex. Richie

I once used anti-seize on the stud threads and then had problems with coolant seeping up the threads, so I pulled the head and redid it using Loctite Teflon thread sealant, which also keeps the threads from seizing. No more coolant seepage.

Real cold in Las Vegas...I'VE BEEN WORKING ON '56 Hornet Twin-H; ENGINE TURNS OVER GOT SPARK HOWEVER ENGINE IS GOING TO NEED REBUILD, HAS VERY WEAK COMPRESSION BAD RINGS POSSIBLE FROM SITTING, BUT I Love Twin-H set-up. Have already rebuilt starter, distributor, new plugs and wires, if I can get space inside garage next week, we plan to pull engine and transmission, quick question, it it easier to remove hood before doing so or can we pull both engine and transmission without hood removal? I realize 1956 FOUR DOOR Hudson isn't most desireable car to restore, however if after engine and transmission rebuild, I may go forward or try and find a rust free step down? First things first, I know I'll have alot of questions and to all who answer, I'll say thank you in advance...Another concern is living in overheated desert, after I pull head, remove freeze plugs, any recommendations on water jacket, I have two cast iron and one aluminum heads and will order from PaulTooLarge grade 8 -1/2 bolts; more next week.
Ray

That motor can be used in a stepdown with the proper adapter but that transmission wont fit without major changes. Your car has sealed driveshaft and the Stepdown has an open driveline. Dont forget to get new grade #8 washers for your head bolts. Thats probaly mor imprtant that new bolts (if the bolts are still in nice shape ). If you can find a new water jacket go ahead and try to pull that one out if you want and check it ( I wouldnt unless your going to boil the block). They are brass and very thin so chances are if its not bad it will be asfter you mess with it.
If you are saying it wont start due to low comression you might squirt a little light oil or ATF in each spark plug hole .That will help seal the cylinders and might help.
You will get many opinions on the head question. I would guess most guys favor the iron head in general but either can blow gaskets if not perfect or installed properly. The big plus that an alluminium head does have over the iron one that is not debateable is heat dissipation.
I had one on a 254 and drove it 15,000 miles before selling it .No leaks ever and it was not babbied . I used Walt's instructions to install the gasket ,dont recall the brand gasket I used now .
Roger

At 11 thou it would certainly knock!

When the piston slap gets bad enough, and one keeps on driving the car, soon pieces of the piston skirt will wind up in the oil pan!

A few things came up when I ran into head leakage after installation. I learned that when mounting a new gasket, typically "Best" brand, the broader side of the metal rings should go against the block. To be sure things lined up correctly I used two studs at opposite ends of and diagonally inserted into the block to properly align the gasket and the head. The surfaces of the studs were greased. I used studs throughout but if you were using bolts then the studs would be removed after several bolts are started. I applied Permatex Black to all the threads. The nice thing about 7X studs is that coarse threads seat against the block leaving room to mount the head add the washer and nut. Grade 8 washers are a necessity. Before torque was applied I greased the washers and the nuts to minimize shear. For the aluminum head I torqued all nuts to 85 lbs. So far (about 500 miles), so good.

Dougson, good advice, I never knew about the broader side of the metal rings should go against the block. I have used the line-up studs before, I put a slot in the end for easy removal. Thanks for your comment. Richie.