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In this Discussion
- 51hornetA December 2012
- ArkieJazz November 2012
- befishers1 January 1
- bobdriveshudson November 2012
- commodorecollector November 2012
- Courtesy Man December 2012
- coverton December 2012
- faustmb January 3
- GrimGreaser November 2012
- JasonNC December 2012
- joe53HH November 2012
- Kdancy December 2012
- mikeyb January 2
- Ol racer December 2012
- Oldfarmer1947gmailcom November 2012
- rambos_ride November 2012
- Richard E. November 2012
- SuperDave December 2012
- Tallent R December 2012
Disk Brake kits , coming soon
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I am excited to announce that the Disk Brake kits previously available from Richard Pridemore will soon again be available. I have been working with Richard to take this service over since he is no longer interested in pursuing it personally. Per Richard, he has sold over 200 kits since he started selling them roughly 10 years ago. I have seen quite a few of them installed, and have only heard positive things from those who have them.
This is a bolt on kit, which requires no welding or machining to install. It is the only one I've seen that includes new hubs and does not require machining OE hubs or modifying the new rotors.
The new kits will include the following items;
-new CNC machined hubs with new studs and lugs nuts
-new laser cut caliper mounts
-new Master Cylinder bracket (bolt in)
-new laser cut wheel spacers (to use OE wheels)
-new rotors, calipers, pads, and hoses
-new wheel bearings
-new Master Cylinder
-new hardware as required, grade 8
-comprehensive instructions and replacement parts list
My goal is to order a batch of 5-10 sets early in 2013. I estimate that the sell price will be in the $800 range, depending on how many sets are ordered and the final costs once everything is pulled together.
I would like to gauge interest to get this first order rolling. I am also interested in hearing any feedback from people who have these kits (or others) installed.
Once I have firm pricing and a firm schedule, I'll post something more formal and run an add in the WTN. Meanwhile, please email me with any questions or feedback.
Thanks,
Matt
HETfaustmb@yahoo.com, drop the HET -
Good on you Matt for taking the initative and the risk. Good Luck with this endeavor.Oldfarmer1947@gmail.com
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Can you just buy the hubs? I do not want anything but the hubs.www.hudsonmotorcar.org
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Hi Matt,
I bought 2 kits from Richard years ago. He was a great guy to talk with, very knowlegable - love his racing stuff!
Unfortunately I had to sell both kits when I was on hard times.
With that parts list 800 doesnt seem too bad and I'd be interested in a kit for the 49 but.....
Since mine is a custom build..I wouldn't need the master cylinder as I'm not using the stock one anyway.
In fact, parts like master cylinders, rotors, calipers, pads, hoses..those are all readily and cheaply available at a local parts store or online. Sourcing, shipping and packing costs for these items just adds to your overhead and you obviously have to pass those costs on to your customers...perhaps an optional recommended parts list would suffice..or sell 2 different versions of the kits..one with the Extras..like a Deluxe Package and a Standard Package with only the critical machined parts and just a parts list for the easily had items? -
Hey guys, I appreciate the feedback. It's good to hear what options you guys are interested in. I have no problem breaking the parts out based on demand, such as hubs. I figure a lot of guys won't need the wheel spacers either, so that can be an option as well as the MC w/ bracket.
Dan, as far as the purchased parts, I think that makes sense too. However, if I buy 5- 10 sets of hardware I can easily get 10-20% off which allows me to make sure that all the parts are good and have some room to still sell them at counter price. I have no issue selling it either way, but I figure that there will be a demand for a complete kit that doesn't require the purchaser to round up 1/2 dozen other parts and make sure they are correct. It seems like there are so many variations with aftermarket parts that I get burned frequently by a "compatible" thread or otherwise unexpected (or missing) feature in a replacement item.
I'll make sure to factor these items when I pull pricing together.
Thanks,
Matt -
A lot of folks not in the bussiness world may not understand the quantity discount factor in pricing. But you could maybe come up with a couple different "Packages",
RogerRetired Tech. -
Mat, I would be interested in buying one of these kits in the future when I would modernize one of my Hudsons. However currently all of mine are going to be restored back to stock with their orgional drum brakes.
Still nice to know that they are available. Thanks for taking the initiative and getting the ball rolling on this.Christopher
Wyotech Sacramento Grad 2013
- Collision and Refinishing
-Applied Service Management
Own:
1954 Hudson Hornet Sedan //1949 Hudson Commodore 6 Sedan // 1949 Hudson Super 6 Sedan // 1941 Hudson Super 6 Sedan
Wanted:
1949 Hudson Commodore 6 Club Coupe // 1949 Hudson Super 6 Brougham // 1950 Hudson Super 6 Brougham
All Stepdown Coupes and Broughams
1937 Brougham, Victoria Coupe, Utility Coupe, and Sedan (all models acceptable)
1936 Coupe -
Matt, I have been working (slowly) on my '53 this year replacing the master cylinder and the four wheel cylinders. I may be interested in the kit for a future upgrade though and have a few questions. Is the master cylinder a dual? Does it come with a remote reservoir? Would or should a proportioning valve be needed? Thanks for the information. Joe
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The master cylinder is a dual, there hasn't been a remote reservoir option but that's a good idea. I'm not clear on the proportioning valve, it has been done both ways and I don't have an official recommendation at the moment.
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Interested in brake kit also, thanks, Bob P
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The remote reservoir's are a common HotRod item and are available thru that market. Last I looked you could get them for about $30.00 for a kit,
RogerRetired Tech. -
I put the Pridemore disc brake conversion on my '50C6 last spring and I put 8,000 miles on the car this summer and I am quite happy with the conversion. I also fitted the car with remote reservoir sold by HET Club member Erwin Sanchez. He makes these for the stock Hudson master cylinder. The problem that I had to overcome is that the new master cylinder, for the conversion, is made to be mounted on the firewall, not below the floorboards. I had to fashion my own top to prevent leakage of the brake fluid. The stock cap leaks like a seive when you feed it from above. It was a little tricky but I have it working just fine now.
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I've never seen one done but can guess the seal would have to be good around the hose. And If there is a vent in the cap I suppose it would need to be sealed ?
RogerRetired Tech. -
Too bad that someone or some entity won't invest in something these cars actually NEED, such as gas tanksArkie
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RENU works great on gas tanks. I'm sure that there is one in your area!
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http://rickstanks.com/ has made 46-47 and Stepdown tanks. They're stainless.Six in a row makes it GO!
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Could someone that has installed the Pridemore Disc Brake Conversion tell me what Master Cylinder was recommend to utilize, or just used the original M/Cyl.
Thanks -
Richard definitely does not recommend the original, although some people have used it. It is an 80's model GM unit I believe, but I will confirm once I have the actual numbers in front of me.
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The Pridemore kit listed a 1980 Chevy Monza MC Napa part #39027 Bendix part #11737www.hudsonmotorcar.org
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51HornetA
Thank you for the Master Cylinder Part Numbers. I knew it would need a larger type chamber for calipers.....
Chuck -
I would like to hear from anyone who has used these on pre-stepdowns. Bill Labud and Richard both told me that there are guys with their kits installed on 37 to 47 models, but neither were clear on what was required to make it work. Ultimately I would like to offer Kits (or instructions) for these models as well.
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The shop that made these will be making the next set too. The CNC program is what they have, and they seem good to deal with. I plan to proceed with the kits as Richard designed, but once I have parts in hand I can start to explore this which I agree is a better option. Haven't been on your site in quite awhile, just got too busy. I do appreciate the offer and will take you up on that.
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On my 1947 Hudson pick-up I put A-arms from a Hornet on it and so I would think with that alteration which includes the brake drums and spindles that a switch to discs would here be possible. Don't know about the original set-up however. Gert Kristiansen
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I'm told the caliper plates will bolt on from 37 -up. The new hubs will work as well, but use 1 different wheel bearing. Thats about all I know, but it seems like these older cars with very small drums would be as good or better candidates for brake improvements. Thanks for the info,
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Is anyone building or should say fabricating a trapeeze brake kit for hudson ? would be nice to have a pwr booster n master cyl on the firewall
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FYI
Regarding Front Brake Interchange ...
Step Down Hornet backing plates & drums will bolt right onto '37 front spindles. However one Wheel Brg does need to be utilized from the '37 hub. Additionally, Stepdown Hubs Inner dimension between races are 1/8" narrower (or the '37 Spindle is 1/8" longer) requiring an additional 'washer' inside the castle nut. I obtained a 'hardened washer' at Lowes to utilize. Therefore I expect Large Stepdown Brakes to fit right onto a '41-'47 Hudson as well... So Disc Brake Kit Brackets should bolt right onto the older Spindles & Hubs (back to '37) anyway by interchanging the one W/Brg
There is a 'St Rod Company' making Under Floor Power Booster Master Cyl Kits..... However, Im thinking of fabricating a Bracket under my Stepdown to bolt a dual Master Cyl up to the Hudson adjustable pushrod.
A few Yrs ago I bolted aTorino dual M/Cyl up to my stock '46 pedal assy that works very well. Regarding a Remote Fill, after brakes were bleed never needed to add fluid. -
Would be nice to have dual master for a stepdown and keep the backup system and emergency brake setup. And dont let anyone tell you that with dual system you cant loose brakes completely. Ive had it happen,(73 Chrysler )
RogerRetired Tech. -
Richards design includes a dual Master are retains the factory rear brake. I am looking at some other options as well that include remote firewall mounted reservoir.
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When I was interested in getting a kit from Richard, he advised that this kit was designed for automatics and that it would have to be modified for a straight drive car. I lost interest at that point even though I would like to have disc brakes so I can take the old girl back on a mountain trip without getting the hell scared out of me.
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Glad to see Interest in building Disc Brake Kits again...I cant think of a reason the Kit & M/Cyl upgrade wouldnt work on a Standard though....
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Delete
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JasonNC - There are plenty of standard shift cars with these installed. From what I understand, the MC on the automatics lines up directly with the new bracket. In a standard shift, there is an additional pushrod offset adapter to make this fit. I'm not sure when Richard started offering this, but he's offered it for at least a few years that I know of. On a side note, I've wanted to install disk brakes for a few years now. Back in October I had a near miss coming off the interstate at 65ish. Everyone else stopped much faster that me, luckily I could go around them. I ended up about 3 car lengths too far... My brakes were all new in 2005 and only have 3k on them ( don't know when the shoes were made or how they age). Granted there may be some room for improvement in fine adjustment, but I was standing on the pedal and it was fading fast. Prior to that, I felt good about the brakes. I plan to I stall one of these first kits on my car this winter.
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An alternative to the chassis mounted mastercylinder is a firewall mounted dual cylinder. This will NOT look original. In my case, with a 49 (std shift), I used Richard's disc conversion, but added a 96 Astro/Safari van mastercylinder and pedal assemble. Including the proportioning block etc. Only required making the required holes in the firewall. The voltage regulator will have to be removed, but if you have converted to an alternator.. it's already gone. No other mods to the car. Get all the lines and parts off a donar van in a junk yard. Even the brake lines fit. It is a power mastercylinder that used hydraulic pressure not vacuum. A GM Saginaw PS pump will be required. A vacuum booster takes up way too much room and would require much modification.. I couldn't have asked for better brakes. No fade, easy pedal pressure, and readily available replacement parts. The brakes feel just like my Safari van ! BUT it is very obvious when the hood is open.
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That is a proven system and quite compact ,have it on my suburban . Runs off the power steering pump,
RogerRetired Tech. -
I could care less about where the master cylinder fits after the experience I had about 10 years ago. My wife and her parents were with me when I was coming off the mountains of West Jefferson, NC when the brakes overheated. I quickly learned how well Hudsons can take a curve as long as there are no cars coming in the opposite direction. I was standing up on the brakes and had no brakes at all. I've known Richard personally for years and I really wanted one of those units but I wasn't not sure when he was selling them that I was mechanically inclined enough to install it if it required a lot of modifications for a straight drive.
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I would be interested in a kit for a straight drive. There are a million options such as a remote reservoir you could offer, but a simple dual master cylinder front disk kit should be the base kit. A list of all standard parts would help sell people on easy maintenance.
800 sounds fair. -
I've got everything together now, so I'll start a new post with details. I'll have hubs in hand within two weeks. Initially I will offer these just as Richard had, the machined parts along with instructions and a parts list. After I can do a dry run I'll offer the complete kit with commercial parts as well.
Thanks,
Matt









