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Head Reinstall
  • Pacemaker500Pacemaker500
    Posts: 1,004Platinum Member
    Finally got a break in the schedule and getting the head reinstalled. I found that the bolts between #3 & #4 would not stay torqued. The new bolts are slightly oversized based on the digital caliper.

    I seem to recall being told I can put a little oil in the cylinders since they have been open to the air for a little while.

    What oil should I use?
  • brumac
    Posts: 188Expert Adviser
    Pacemaker, It sounds like the head bolt threads in the block are striped out. They can be repaired with a Heli-Coil kit. Your local parts store should be able to get you one.
    Any oil that you have on hand should work for you. Bruce
  • Pacemaker500Pacemaker500
    Posts: 1,004Platinum Member
    I have seen the heli-Coil kits. What about Lock-Tite?
  • Fred
    Posts: 113Expert Adviser
    Lock-tite locks threads that are there. Heli-coil replaces threads that are stripped.
    Fred
  • Pacemaker500Pacemaker500
    Posts: 1,004Platinum Member
    First round of Head Bolt torque done. 50lbs using a 1/2" drive Craftsman "Click" torque wrench. Wait 24 hours and then move to the final 75lb.
  • Uncle JoshUncle Josh
    Posts: 1,860Platinum Member
    Yipe! Specs in the manual are 60-65 unless you want to put more heli-coils in.
  • Pacemaker500Pacemaker500
    Posts: 1,004Platinum Member
    WOW!!!! You are correct, Uncle Josh. I will highlight book right now. I must get used to these new tri-focals (only had them a week).
  • 51hornetA51hornetA
    Posts: 2,338Platinum Member
    Here is spec from Hudson. They changed the torque spec and sent it out in the service merchandiser.

    image
    www.hudsonmotorcar.org
  • Pacemaker500Pacemaker500
    Posts: 1,004Platinum Member
    So what you are saying is......That the procedures manual should now be updated to the above.

    What will happen if I use the original specs? And pattern?
  • 51hornetA51hornetA
    Posts: 2,338Platinum Member
    I used this procedure on my last 2 engines and neither leak. I am using Best gaskets on both from Dale Cooper. Use the original spec if you want just check to see if anything is leaking. Also it sounds like you need to repair those two that will not stay torqued that is not acceptable. The above spec was an answer to a service bulletin that Hudson had stating that heads were leaking in the new cars. So they came up with a new gasket and new torquing sequence. I have hundreds of updates like this to the factory manuals.
    www.hudsonmotorcar.org
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    Posts: 2Hitchhiker
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    Posts: 2Hitchhiker
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  • Pacemaker500Pacemaker500
    Posts: 1,004Platinum Member
    I got my new gaskets (bought a spare) from Mr. Cooper as well. I will torque to 65 using the pattern above and finish putting everything back together so I can try to start it and check for leaks.
  • lostmindlostmind
    Posts: 515Gold Member
    I got a Tip from a Hudson mechanic that worked at a dealership I bought out the stock
    in the 70's. He told me to coat both sides of the gasket with alluminum paint.
    I've always done this and have never had a problem or "do over ".
    It might be hard to find paint with real Alluminum content today , but it's worth the look.
    Roy
  • Pacemaker500Pacemaker500
    Posts: 1,004Platinum Member
    Uncle Josh.......I just double checked the manual. Section 3-15, figure 12: 6 cyl are torqued to 70-75lbs. The manual still has the old pattern, not the one 51HornetA shared.

    I used the "new" pattern and torqued to 65lbs. I will continue the slow, careful reinstall of everything else (I lost the drain plug somewhere under car). Before I start I will check torque at 65lbs and see how things are holding. Then I will move on to starting and warming it up to torque again.
  • Tallent RTallent R
    Posts: 1,574Platinum Member
    I too was told to use the silver paint and have never had a problem,
    Roger
    Retired Tech.
  • Park_WPark_W
    Posts: 2,052Platinum Member
    There's also a spray can paint out there in the parts stores expressly for helping to seal head gaskets ... does something similar to the aluminum paint, but is a bit more sticky and is (attention, '51-'53 Hornet engine owners) a gold color.
  • 51hornetA51hornetA
    Posts: 2,338Platinum Member
    Torque those head bolts up to at least 75Ibs 65 is not good enough. If you are using Dale's Best gasket and "Best" is the brand you do not need to spray anything on it. Just install and torque to proper spec and you will be fine.
    www.hudsonmotorcar.org
  • Pacemaker500Pacemaker500
    Posts: 1,004Platinum Member
    I will.
  • onerare39onerare39
    Posts: 526Hitchhiker
    I just replaced a leaking Best - GraphTite gasket that I had put on "dry" three years ago. I used Copper Coat this time with the new Best - GraphTite gasket. I only torqued to 65 lbs., 308 cast iron head.

    If you go to the Best gasket website, they tell you to use K & W Copper Coat or Permatex Spray-A-Gasket.

    Here's the link.

    http://www.bestgasket.com/about_our_products.aspbestgasket.com/about_our_products.asp

    Hope this helps,

    John Forkner
  • 51hornetA51hornetA
    Posts: 2,338Platinum Member
    3 years plus on one 308 dry install torqued to 75Ibs as per Hudsons factory updated instructions second engine 2 years and counting. Not a leak or problem on either. On every new rebuild I always use new head bolts. Follow the torque procedure and always recheck after about 1000 miles. Just finished two engines for my 54's I am restoring same procedure every time. Nothing wrong with using copper coat if you think you need it.
    www.hudsonmotorcar.org