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In this Discussion
- 46HudsonPU April 2012
- hoggyrubber April 2012
- Kdancy April 2012
- Marker345 April 2012
finally got the last floor patch piece welded in today
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i had 4 rotted out pieces in the floor of my 53 hornet. i finally got the last one in today. none were too big but all were too big to ignore. i have several pin holes but i didn't want to replace more than i had to. here is a picture of the biggest one, rear pass side. i made the panels from scrap hudson pieces i had. i will be putting on some por15 in a few days. i really liked that fiberglass welding blanket i got from harbor freight, made protecting everything a little easier. good buy for the money.
100_2614.JPG2048 x 1536 - 790K -
Maybe just me but I would have cut out a bigger section that included the holes toward the bottom of the picture. That would leave a solid patch with no further repair needed, just metal treatment.
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Thanks Hoggyrubber, always nice to see progress - especially when they come with pictures too!
Using a welding blanket is always a good idea, if at all possible. Another good item to have with/when welding, soldering, etc., is some type of anti-heat compound -
Actually got this info quite some time ago from Dan (Rambos Ride) -
Anti-Heat Compound - Eastwood Website
Haven't really seen it any other place, however I'm sure if one looks hard enough, it can probably be found. Eastwood is a good place for the stuff you need - but tends to be a bit pricey, both on their products, and shipping. I like HarborFreight better, quality sometimes sucks, but they have a retail location within 15 minutes of my house -
And, when welding-up small holes/areas, it's always nice to have at least one copper 'spoon' to plug and support your weld... -
Rick, you shouldn't need any anti-heat compound when doing floor panels. Slight warpage can be minimized by not welding in one spot very long and letting things cool down. I tac everything together and then weld no more than 1" spots while moving around to different areas whether I'm welding a floor pan or building a truck bed.
I have some of that compound on hand and can't say that I recommend it as I can accomplish the same quality without using it. Also, it tends to run down hill on a vertical surface.
You should take more time with panels that are going to see high gloss paint, it will show every warp if not blocked out properly.
The whole area I see in the bottom of the picture is full of holes and I bet the metal is ultra thin. Cut all that out and put good metal back in place.
I also use Picklex 20 to pretreat those rusted areas, it makes for a better quality patch. -
the part with the smaller holes is prob stonger thanlooks. i did consider removing more, but decided against it. i did not want to go all the way to the inside of the frame. i am not a pro or even a resorer, but from past experiences in removing metal, less can be more. you are right, i may be sorry later. i had a couple of small holes on the other side, but just replaced the total bad area.
i usually shy away from harbor freight, but i was impressed with this blanket. i have a couple of the copper spoons, but didn't have to use them on this. i used a 0 tip and warpage or burn thru was not a problem. i seem to do better gas welding on these than tig. it's hard for me to tig with the pedal unless i am at a welding table. i don't do that good laying down or knealing.
i also find the harbor freight butt welding clamps work good for this too. i still do tacks on both sides of them before i remove them and do a lot of moving around. did the cleaning and prep for the por15 this morning, hope to get it on on thurs. -
Tig is very good for nice clean metal, but mig is best for old rusty metal work and much faster. The butt weld clamps are something I regularly use and are great to have on hand when needed.
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When I have a few small rust holes I like to braze them closed, after sandblasting of course. Brass can add a lot of strength to that thin lacey steel.
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got the por15 yesterday and today some paint. did some painting on the front sheetmetal as well. spent most of the morning working on the rear axle before i had to go to work.
100_2636.JPG2048 x 1536 - 469K -
marker345, forgot to say thanks for the brazing idea. i do a lot of brazing on cast parts but haven't tried it on those small holes in sheetmetal. and kdancy- i hear you about the mig being a lot faster. i like them for a lot stuff, but it's prob just my skill, or lack thereof; but i can control the heat so much better with gas on these butt welds.
