ClassicCar

DavidC

OK, so I have my fresh block back from the machine shop and I'm gathering the last few parts and materials for my rebuild, when I discover all the pics I took during engine disassembly are lost in a computer crash. I have the service manual, Dale's overhaul kit, and most of the assembly lubes I'll need. But I'd really prefer to have photos of stepwise assembly or disassembly as reassurance. I also need a good source for the odd freeze plugs (cam and oil pan lip) as well as the conn rod palnuts.

If anyone can help me by sending some of the key photos, especially crank/ conn bearings install, main seals install, timing chain install, etc I'd greatly appreciate it. I'd happily take any photos of engine rebuild right up thru accessories as well. If there is something I can provide you in trade please let me know. I have great pics of 57 chevy electr wiper motor adaptation, for example.

Any sources for these parts would be appreciated.

Also, your favorite goop for head bolt threads, head bolt heads, oil pan gaskets, cam lobes, etc would be appreciated.

You can email me at dcbabydratgmail.com, change at to the symbol.

Dave Carpenter

Kdancy

Iron or aluminum head?
Please take pictures of the process and or problems you encounter. I like to put together an album on Photobucket, it's free and easy to post link on forum.
example-
http://s294.photobucket.com/albums/mm97/studebaker2/37 Terraplane engine/

Hudson Grandpa

During my 308 rebuild the machine shop had the freeze plugs for the side of the block, however the lone one in the back couldn't find anywhere. Different size.
Called Al Saffrahn and he had it. I ordered two. If you get in a bind my engine installer has the one I got from Al..

Ol racer

FYI
Dont have any pictures but the assembly process is pretty well covered in Service manuals but one thing not mentioned is cleanliness is very important. Scrub the Block with dish soap using brushes in the cyl's and oil passages. Then rinse with a water hose & blow dry. I wipe the bores with a white cloth soaked in oil to pick up any minute particles remaining in the cyls. After rinsing its important to spray WD40 or oil the cyls and passages so dont rust color.I also brush & wipe the crankshaft passages using air, not water

Ensure Seals face inward, then after Main Caps are installed, try packing grooves with all the string material. I also use 'Black' RTV

Use 40 or 50 wt oil on all brgs ensuring 'Tangs' are together and Rod Oil holes face Camshaft

Torque parts equally in small increments until reach final Values

Cam lobes GM#12345501 Cam Lobe lubricant (Number may have been updated), Isky Lobe, or similar Cam Lubes.

Permatex Head bolts or Stud threads then put grease under washers or or nuts to get correct torque

I recommend Randy Maas Double roller Timing Chain Set over the original chain with a 'Perm Bond' Head Gasket.

As you get into it ask questions and someone will reply with more detail.

DavidC

Thank you, this info is already a big help. Block had to be bored 60 over, journals are 10 under. Iron 262 head. Tapped for 1/2 inch head bolts. Yes, the cam freeze plug is the one my machinist could not find- will ask Al Saffrahn. Thanks for the details re main seals- will really come in handy the next few weeks. Yes, I will work to be operating-room clean.

Please remind me which main gets the flanged bearing- I believe it's #3. I have all torque specs and clearances.

Do any of you seat each valve with grinding compound? The valve seats were machined by the shop, but I do not know if this suffices. I am planning to go without valve sleeves based upon the reported hardness of this block in handling unleaded.

I did have the oil passages tapped for pipe plugs so I have great access for the final clean.

The machinist forgot to bevel the lifter bores so I plan on gently grinding them myself before final clean.

I will have to plastigauge the mains as my new bearings are unwrapped and untouched, so I know the shop did not do this. I hope he gapped the pistons and rings as promised, as he assembled the rings, wrist pins and conn rods already.

Again, thanks. Would still appreciate pics if any one is as shutter-happy as I was before I lost all the pics.

I did get Randy's double roller.

I will photodocument the build for future record.

Dave

Kdancy

A good inside mic is more accurate than using plastiguage. Most machine shops have quit using plastiguage, my local NAPA quit selling it, has to be special ordered.

Ol racer

FYI
Thrust Brg will only fit into one location. Be sure the insert with an oil feed hole goes into 'block side' of motor, although both Inserts may have an oil hole then dont matter.
Hopefully 'main caps' were punch marked when disssembled because are different.

Ensure the tappets spin freely in their bores.

Today most machine shops do multi angle valve jobs so lapping valves usually isnt necessary. I adjust valves little looser than specs.

54SuperWasp

Hi Dave,it's been about two months I am not able to come on the forum. Too much busy but I get a look on time to time. Can't help with your motor but, just in case, I got a good info from my son about a way to retrieve pictures or anything on a computer. Here is the link. Hope it can help. Michel
http://www.piriform.com/recuva

DavidC

Thanks for info re valves.

I had a computer geek attempt to retrieve pics- they're gone.

my concern is with the littel details, such as which main cap bolts use split washers vs the bendable tabs to lock in place. This type of info just cant be found in the mechanical manual.

I may have to pull the pan off a spare motor to be sure.

Good info re plastigage, thx.

Dave

Ol racer

FYI

Lock wshr's on both center two caps and bendable type locks front and rear caps.

DavidC

Very helpful thanks!

Hudson308

I like to wipe the cylinder walls down with ATF after cleaning the block, as it won't interfere with ring seating. Don't use anything like STP here for that reason. I DO like to wipe the crank journals and inserts with a 50-50 mix of oil and STP before assembly. All rod & main cap bolts get WD-40 on the threads for accurate torque readings, and head bolts get a pinky-nail sized smear of steam-tight PTFE (teflon) plumber's paste on the threads, because it stays pliable as you torque the bolts. Be sure to run a chase tap (NOT a thread-cutting tap) down all head bolt and main cap bolt holes in the block.

You will experience valve seat recession using unleaded fuel without hardened seats. I thought the same thing you did after hearing about Hudson's high chrome content in their block castings, then watched in dismay as my tappet clearance slowly went away. A product called CD-2 (1-oz. per 5 gallons) added to my fuel stopped the recession.

I've got all the expansion plugs available as a kit or individually, if Al can't help you. Cam gallery plug is 1-13/16" dia.

Geoff C., N.Z.

Regarding valve seat recession, my understanding is that the '55-'56 blocks were softer than the Step-down blocks. So if this is a Hash block then you will likely experience problems. Even the earlier blocks though, it would pay to use an additive for at least the first two thousand miles to allow the seats to work harden, particularly if the seats have been re-ground to any extent.

DavidC

Excellent specific advice, thanks. Will look into cd-2
Dave

DavidC

Interesting note: In my block, at least, a 1 13/16 plug fit too loosely- i don't know why. Will have to go back to store and find one just a tiny bit larger.
Dave

Kdancy

http://www.classiccar.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&func=view&catid=13&id=98645&limit=6&limitstart=6&Itemid=152#98758

past info on the block hardness subject--

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