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Fuel tank senders
  • JasonNCJasonNC
    Posts: 363Gold Member
    Apparently Dennis Carpenter Ford has discontinued making the gas tank sending units for the old Fords that were compatible with Hudson fuel tanks. Anyone have an idea where we can obtain gas tank sending units since this source has apparently dried up.
    Jason
  • DavidCDavidC
    Posts: 95Senior Contributor
    Got mine from Paul Schuster
  • Spencer YarrowSpencer Yarrow
    Posts: 219Gold Member
    JasonNC wrote:
    Apparently Dennis Carpenter Ford has discontinued making the gas tank sending units for the old Fords that were compatible with Hudson fuel tanks. Anyone have an idea where we can obtain gas tank sending units since this source has apparently dried up.
    Jason

    Google---Atwater Kent Manufacturing Company

    Spencer
  • 46HudsonPU46HudsonPU
    Posts: 5,147Moderator
    JasonNC wrote:
    Apparently Dennis Carpenter Ford has discontinued making the gas tank sending units for the old Fords that were compatible with Hudson fuel tanks. Anyone have an idea where we can obtain gas tank sending units since this source has apparently dried up.
    Jason

    [strike]Hmmm... The unit is listed as being compatible with the 30's Fords, but are not compatible with Hudsons? That does not make sense - Essentially, all the unit does is send a signal indicating a level reading, based on resistance.

    According to what I'm seeing, it is very generic (multiple models, across a wide year range - same part number, thru the 50s), and compatible with 6v and 12v systems.

    Here's the online instruction sheet, to modify the 'float arm' for various applications. What it more or less tells me is that the adjustment of the arm will be the deciding factor as to whether or not the unit accurately reports the amount of gas in the tank. Take your time setting this up correctly (full movement thru the spectrum, based on the space in the tank vs. the length & position of the arm), make sure it is properly ground - and it should work well. Guess I will eventually see for myself - [/strike]

    Doesn't look good, probably not worth the effort - unit mounts 180 degrees from the way it should, and the movement of the arm is about 90 degrees from optimum for the angle that the device will function correctly. That, coupled with the stated issued pertaining to the guages properly reading input from the sender - probably isn't worth the effort.
    - Best option is to get the sending unit from PaulLargeType (Forum Handle) -

    Rick
  • Park_WPark_W
    Posts: 2,051Platinum Member
    Rick, are you saying that Carpenter does indeed still offer the senders for the thirties thru early fifties Fords? (they're the ones that were also used by Hudson prior to '51).

    For those not aware, the Carpenter units are not the same type of sender (electrically) as originally used by Ford and Hudson*, but they work reasonably well with a little experimenting with the arm length and shape.

    *The original King-Seely senders (and the matching dash gauges) have a bimetallic strip with contact points that make and break regularly to produce an average current through the circuit. Carpenter's senders are a variable resistance type such as Hudson used from '51 on. The Atwater-Kent units operate like the original King-Seely ones, which is good, but they're pretty pricey.
  • 46HudsonPU46HudsonPU
    Posts: 5,147Moderator
    '99A-9275'
    Park W wrote:
    Rick, are you saying that Carpenter does indeed still offer the senders for the thirties thru early fifties Fords? (they're the ones that were also used by Hudson prior to '51).

    For those not aware, the Carpenter units are not the same type of sender (electrically) as originally used by Ford and Hudson*, but they work reasonably well with a little experimenting with the arm length and shape.

    *The original King-Seely senders (and the matching dash gauges) have a bimetallic strip with contact points that make and break regularly to produce an average current through the circuit. Carpenter's senders are a variable resistance type such as Hudson used from '51 on. The Atwater-Kent units operate like the original King-Seely ones, which is good, but they're pretty pricey.

    [strike]Hi Park,
    Honestly, I do not know... Here is the page on the one that they offer, which they claim will work on the early Fords (cars & trucks):
    Fuel Tank Sender Unit

    It lists the Ohm range that it operates in - Am quite interested to hear your view on this item... BTW - Apparently, there are quite a few different versions of this sending unit, which fit different applications. I did an an internet search for '99A-9275', and it comes up with a lot of vendors for this sender, along with other sender units that may be more compatible or a better 'fit' (unknown at this point).[/strike]

    See my modified comment above...
    Rick
  • Park_WPark_W
    Posts: 2,051Platinum Member
    Rick, I tried one of the Carpenter units on my '47 and it wasn't too bad, but I never could get it to read reasonably close at both the full and the low end of the scale ... had to choose one or the other. Ended up putting in an old but still working spare I'd forgotten I had.

    Have you noted the earlier posts indicating that Paul Schuster has senders for these pre '51 cars? It's said they work fine with no fiddling.
  • 46HudsonPU46HudsonPU
    Posts: 5,147Moderator
    Park W wrote:
    Rick, I tried one of the Carpenter units on my '47 and it wasn't too bad, but I never could get it to read reasonably close at both the full and the low end of the scale ... had to choose one or the other. Ended up putting in an old but still working spare I'd forgotten I had.

    [strike]Park,
    These Dennis Carpenter units work in the following OHMS range:
    14-18 OHMS FULL
    88-94 OHMS EMPTY

    Do you know the OHM range that the Hudson fuel guages are looking for? That would help narrow the search - I found a similiar generic unit that operates in a range from 0-30 OHMS. I am sure that there are others, all we need do is find one that will fit that is in the correct range for the guages.[/strike]

    Sorry - looks like the unit doesn't fit, in more ways than one. See my previous comments, for update on issues -

    Rick
  • Park_WPark_W
    Posts: 2,051Platinum Member
    OK, Rick, here are the numbers, from my '47 and some test equipment:

    With the engine not running, i.e., just 6v supplied ... 90 ohms puts the needle on empty, 15 ohms puts it at full. But we usually drive the car with the engine running, when the generator is supplying around 7 volts. Under those conditions, 90 is still OK at the low end (needle just a little above empty), and 20 ohms puts the needle just above the full mark (with 6v, 20 ohms puts it between 3/4 and full). So 90 to 20 seems to be the optimum resistance range for the sending unit, and the Carpenter unit is very close to that.

    It's unfortunate that the reading is affected by the supply voltage, but that's the penalty of going with a pure resistance unit in the tank vs. the original bi-metallic strip device, which is much less sensetive to supply voltage (that's why King-Seely made 'em that way).

    Park