ClassicCar

The Best brand gasket itself should be installed dry, without any of the sealing/adhesive methods necessary with the older-style gaskets. Make sure the deck surfaces of the block and head are perfectly clean and dry, as well. I like a final wipe of acetone to remove any trace of contaminants. These gaskets seem to "vulcanize" to the surfaces when the engine is run for a bit. Once cured, they stick like crazy... to the point where they're a little difficult to remove later.

As far as the head bolts go, make sure you've chased the block threads with a chase tap (NOT a thread-cutting tap) to clean any rust/debris from the block threads. The Permatex you mentioned would probably work as well as the PTFE (?) plumbers' paste I've used to seal the bolts. You don't want so much that it squishes out around the bolt hole/gasket interface. A fingernail-size dab on the bolt threads is all I've needed. If you do get a bolt that leaks coolant, it's an easy matter to remove it and apply a bit more sealant.

As a final note, don't forget to retorque everything once the engine has warmed up. I use the torque pattern & specs published in the factory shop maunal.