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Lighting
  • HudMotCarCoHudMotCarCo
    Posts: 103Expert Adviser
    Am I the only one who is annoyed with the inadequacy of proper lighting in the work area? :unsure: Incandescent, florescent, halogen lighting ..... I have tried them all and remain annoyed by the fact that when I am working in confined areas on a car that the illumination provided is either insufficient, blinding or associated with searing heat. :angry: Normal incandescent bulbs go out with the slightest bump. Even the “tough” incandescent bulbs I tried quit when dropped, typically when I am working in the most awkward position. And while those curly florescent things are more robust the light they provide is either too dim or too bright. Halogen lights are like a mini-sun, dangerously hot and fragile.

    There may not be a satisfactory solution for this dilemma. Yet when poor lighting converges with my mechanically challenged skills the results are anything but pleasing. :(

    Bill :S
    Bill
  • 53jetman53jetman
    Posts: 873Platinum Member
    I received a "Stanley" battery powered trouble light for Christmas that uses LED's and has a moderate illumination as well as a "bright" setting. Have only used it a couple of times, but found it very satisfactory, and I like the idea that I don't have to have another 120 volt power cord in my way.

    Jerry
    Jerry
    email: HudsonJetman@mail.com
    2nd Generation Hud-Nut
    HET Tech Adviser on Hudson Jets 1953 & 1954
    HET Registrar of all Hudson Jets
  • bobdriveshudsonbobdriveshudson
    Posts: 582Platinum Member
    We installed two tube eight foot fluorencent lamps at about 9 feet above the floor. But just one fixture for a 12 X 12 foot area. We painted the ceiling and walls white(two coats) and plenty of light for most jobs. For close work, a drop light incandescent or fluorescent seems to get the work done. For close grinding or measuring work, we add incandescents with reflectors, two or more.
    Fluorencents seem to run cooler, which helps since we dont have air conditioning.
    When considering lighting fixtures, also consider where to install(how far from the work surface, not floor) and just how much light(candlepower or lumens) is needed. If you start getting a tan, reduce the amount of lighting. (a joke) Bob
  • HudMotCarCoHudMotCarCo
    Posts: 103Expert Adviser
    Thanks for the suggestions. I will stop whining and follow your advice.
    Bill
    Bill
  • Park_WPark_W
    Posts: 2,053Platinum Member
    Like Jetman, for close-up work I have a battery powered LED "wand", with hi and lo settings, that's really handy to use ... no power cord to keep getting under the creeper wheels. For more light I do use a corded fluorescent shop light. Never an incandescent shop light ... I've seen what happens when a drop of gasoline hits a hot incandescent bulb. I swore off using those many years ago ... just too much fire danger. For the shop area in general, I had several ceiling outlets installed for twin-tube fluorescent fixtures, but temporarily installed a few plug-in bulb sockets and 150W bulbs. I'm still using the latter ... with the ceiling and walls painted bright white, they provide plenty of "general" light everywhere.