ClassicCar

I have attached a 51 Hudson Chassis wiring diagram. Down load the diagram by clicking on same and print it ... you should beable to make the part that covers the wiring for the generator to regulator and the battery larger for more convenient viewing .

Use the Hudson mechanical proceedures manual forund on the HET website for a proper operational description as well as the trouble shooting section provided.

[attachment=9933]51HudsonChassiswiringdiagram.jpeg.jpg[/attachment]

Good Luck

Majumbo wrote:

Thanks for the info! but im not sure if i have that ground strap to the engine. Can someone post a pic please? should i like sand down the spots where the gen meets bracket and block for continuity?

I used an aftermarket ground cable that bypasses the battery tray bolt connection and goes straight to the motor mount if that does anything.

Thanks

The following assumes you are using a postive ground 6 volt electrical system as was delivered by Hudson.

If you have a multimeter check from continuity (i.e. short) between the positive terminal of your battery and the case of the generator. If you have a short when selecting the ohms X1 scale then your generator is grounded. Hudson stepdown cars achieve ground path continuity via a set of braided metal straps. One strap goes from the positive terminal of the battery to a stud on the battery box. Attached to the battery box stud is another braded strap that is connected to the top of the right motor mount when facing into the engine bay. These straps achieve ground continuity to the engine block via the motor mount plate that sits on the motor mount and the nut and lockwasher combination that holds the braided straps to the motor. The surfaces that touch the strap should be clear of paint to achieve a proper ground path. This ground path continues to the generator case via the metal of the engine mount, engine block, and finally the generator mounting bracket.

If Jon's link doesn't work try IE - sometimes Firefox won't open the site.
You can, if all else fails, go to the home page @ http://hetclub.org/burr/lithomepage.htm - click on Manuals under 1948-1954.


Hudsonly,
Alex Burr
Memphis, TN

6 volt wiring is twice as heavy as 12 volt, so if you have the original loom, in good shape, then you will have less resistance on a 12 volt system.

Majumbo wrote:

I meant to say I'm using 12volt battery cables on a 6volt system

You are headed for big time problems starting, particularly when hot.

Marconi wrote:

By all means, get rid of those 12 volt cables and get some 6 volt units. You're already causing yourself problems. Even if you have to go to a welding supply and buy bulk wire and ends and make them up yourself, DO IT! The 6volt cables probably aren't causing your charging problems right now , but they WILL cause other problems soon! Good luck. Steve.

This is how I've made 6V cables... but as said it still won't solve your charging problem.

Hook a voltmeter between the battery terminals, so you can see the difference between 5 and 7 volts. 7 volts or more with bit of throttle means the generator works. less than 6 means something's wrong.

Clip a wire from the generator "F" terminal to a clean ground (mounting) screw on the regulator. Then try it instead from the generator "F" to the (+) ground terminal on the battery.

If it charges with the wire to the firewall, your grounds are all good and the generator is working fine. Check the regulator or regulator wiring.

If it will only charge when clipped to the battery post, check the battery cable connections and other grounds. Generator is working fine.

The regulator works to keep the battery charge to around 7.5 volts. It does that by grounding the F terminal until battery voltage gets too high. Then it lifts that F terminal from ground so charging stops, until the battery voltage drops below 6.5 volts.