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1950 Pacemaker... Where to start?!?
  • DriftwoodieDriftwoodie
    Posts: 28Greasemonkey
    Hi all!

    I've just purchased a '50 Pacemaker (see my album), that pretty much needs everything! The body is really solid, with the exception of a couple holes in the floorboards and a sizable crack in the trunk from the gas tank bracket. I've started cleaning it out... seats were rotted, 30 years of debris on the floor and trunk, and started sanding/sealing the interior shell.

    She doesn't have an engine or tranny, wiring, missing detail pieces, lights, hardware, but I just love the beast!

    So, that being said, I've done some light restoration work, no fabrication or major mechanical work, but I learn quickly and enjoy getting in over my head and finding the right path out. Most of my hands on experience came from working with my pops on pretty much anything that had a motor.

    Here's my questions:

    * Is there a good set of directions or plan on the best path for restoration? Besides cleaning out the Hudson, I really don't know what should come next? Chassis? Drivetrain? Etc.?

    * Is there a good list of places to buy parts? I've done a little searching, but thought there may be a good reference list. I'd like to start a big push on her in March, and hoping to have a list of contacts to piece her back together.

    * Front clip! I've read the thread about replacing the front clip, and that sounds way out of my league! I did some welding in high school, but that was 25 years ago. Are there parts available to refurbish and go from there?

    * Engine. Anyone have a rebuilt 308 & tranny laying around!?! Since I think it's in my best interest (I may be wrong) to keep it pretty stock, it sounds like the 308 is the way to go.

    After a week of sanding and cleaning, I've got the interior pretty gutted, and put a coat of Rust Bullet on the interior roof to stop the rust rain from falling (pictures to follow), and hope I'm moving in the right direction.

    I'd love to hear any words of wisdom of advice you would like to pass along and feel free to let me know if I'm out of my mind.

    Thanks a ton!

    Woodie in SoCal
  • Hudson308Hudson308
    Posts: 1,405Platinum Member
    You've got your work cut out for ya, Woodie... but remember they can fix this in a week on Overhaulin'! :whistle:

    Kidding. Biggest piece of advice I can give you is DON'T BLOW IT APART!!! I've seen so many project cars stripped to a bare shell and there they sit. You had to strip the interior to get the rotting guts out, but don't go pulling the front clip, doors, trunk lid and rear fenders off (yes, the rear fenders unbolt on '48-53 Hudsons) thinking you're gonna do a concours restoration. It will all begin to overwhelm you.

    One good place to start is with the brakes. They're likely leaking or worn or both, and everything is available for a complete rebuild. This will give you a sense that you're making progress, and brakes are useful when pushing/pulling/trailering the car anywhere.

    Next step is to get it running. Project cars that don't run seem to get on everyone's nerves but the owner. A 308 in a Pacemaker would be a gas, but 262's are good motors and can still be found cheap in running condition. If you're gonna keep it all Hudson, you want to find a 3-speed trans with overdrive from any '48-51 model. These will have a single shift lever plus a place for the heavy cable to pull the trans into the 1st-reverse slot. '52-54 manual trannies have two shift levers, which would require swapping in the steering column from a Wasp. Overdrive is a must if you want to do any real freeway cruising.

    Once you get it running you'll be surprised at how the cosmetic stuff gets less important. These are great road cars that get more attention than a new Vette wherever you go, no matter what shape it's in. You'll eventually get used to the folks shuffling up closer for a look inside, and the stories of the one their uncle had. Congratulations and happy Hudsoning!
    Workin Stiff
  • DriftwoodieDriftwoodie
    Posts: 28Greasemonkey
    Thanks for the information "308" and I'll take it to heart!

    I'm a little overwhelmed every time I walk into the garage, but so looking forward to having this on the road. I figured that was probably the best place to start (brakes) and hope to get into them this weekend. I figured body work would wait until the end, but I'll focus on the brakes next. The thread on baggin a Hudson seemed like a great project, but I'm going to be keeping her pretty stock until I get 25,000 new miles on her.

    I'd like to get a couple coats of Rust Bullet under her as well to get her sealed up, but little steps for now!

    Thanks for the advice on the 262, and I'll start looking for one with a tranny as well! Someone cleaned out the car pretty well, but it rolls and has some great bones. I feel lucky to have itbin the garage!

    One question/clarification: the VIN is 49170397 seems like it may be a 49 Super Six (491), if I'm reading it correctly. Any thoughts or where to verify?

    My personal goal: running by July 2011.... It may be a stretch goal!

    Thanks again, and keep posted for progress pictures!!!

    Woodie
  • Jon BJon B
    Posts: 4,770Moderator
    The first thing I suggest you do is to join the H-E-T Club (if you're not a member already). This opens the door to a whole network of friendly and helpful fellow Hudson enthusiasts, as well as a lot of parts vendors. The website's here: http://www.hetclub.org/

    Once you've joined and received the international roster, you can look under your state, to see if you can find owners of Hudsons similar to yours. Then you can contact the closest ones. Most Hudson owners are happy to share tips and information, and to show you their cars.

    The very next thing I'd do is to get under the car and look at the perimeter frame around the rear wheels (and further back) to determine if, after all, "the body is really solid." If the frame rails are rotted, better to know that BEFORE you start to sink thousands of dollars into this car, than after.

    The parts are out there (both new and used). Let the hunt begin, and welcome to the wacky and wonderful world of Hudsons!
  • DriftwoodieDriftwoodie
    Posts: 28Greasemonkey
    Thanks "Jon B" for the H.E.T. information. I just joined, and there seems to be a great starting list of parts places listed.

    I rolled under the full length of the car, and I didn't see any other signs of rust or damage, but I'll spend some quality time under her tomorrow and take another deep look.

    I'll read through some more threads here and see what others have done, suggestions, and past projects.

    Big thanks for the insight!!!

    Woodie
  • BrowniepetersenBrowniepetersen
    Posts: 2,418Platinum Member
    Woody, If your data is correct and you do live in Newport it is only a short drive over to Fontana and visit with Jason Fisher at Vintage Coach. Bet the price of breakfast Vintage Coach will have every part that you need to complete your job. Those projects that are "above your pay scale" are a daily occurrance at Vintage Coach. you can reach them at albrighthudsons@msn.com or they will be listed in the HET mag under member products and service. Also, plan to be in San Diego in April for the Western Regional Meet. All the data will be in the WTN that you will soon get in the mail.

    Good luck with the project and send a lot of photo's....
    Brownie
  • Marconi
    Posts: 549Platinum Member
    Hi Woody, yeah, come on over to Vintage Coach. We've got a couple of rebuilt 308s sitting on the floor right now as well as some O.D. transmissions. We're open 8am till 5pm Tues. thru Sat. Phone is 909-823-9168. And yes 491 is a 49 Super Six. You're only about 50 miles from us, we're near the junction of the 10 and 15 fwys.
  • Hudson308Hudson308
    Posts: 1,405Platinum Member
    Y'know that thing looked like a '49 Super to me, but without the grille or some side/dash pictures I wasn't sure. That means a 2-lever trans would require a column from a '52-54 Hornet or Commodore, not a Wasp. Single-lever trans is easier to find anyway. So are '49 Super parts. Good thing the "pickers" left you the taillights... those things are pretty popular with the rat bike/bobber crowd.
    Workin Stiff
  • onerare39onerare39
    Posts: 528Hitchhiker
    Driftwoodie,

    A complete wiring harness can be made by YnZ in Redlands, California. They do really great work.


    John
  • DriftwoodieDriftwoodie
    Posts: 28Greasemonkey
    Thanks Marconi! That's really great news! I was a bit worried that I'd have a really hard time trying to find a rebuild and tranny, so that eases the pressure a bit. I'll give you a call today to discuss further, and pick your brain a bit!

    I really appreciate the quick replies and help you guys are throwing my way! By the way, I'm down in the San Diego area, but still close enough to pop up to your shop!

    Woodie
  • DriftwoodieDriftwoodie
    Posts: 28Greasemonkey
    I'll get some progress pictures up today so you can see what I'm working with, and if I should keep going on her!

    I've always lived the "step down" look of the Hudson, and there's just something about the four doors that really pulled me in this direction. I was also considering a Chevy Fleetline, but couldn't pass up the Hudsons lines!

    Thanks again for the info. I've never pulled a column, but if need be...

    Woodie
  • DriftwoodieDriftwoodie
    Posts: 28Greasemonkey
    Thanks Brownie! I'll be sure to follow up with them today and get the ball rolling!

    Just knowing there's a place close to talk shop is a huge step in the right direction. And that the do have a few motors/trans in house makes me feel like I've won half the battle!

    Thanks again!!!

    Woodie
  • DriftwoodieDriftwoodie
    Posts: 28Greasemonkey
    Here we go!

    This is how I received the car. As I mentioned before, I believe her to be pretty solid, but she was a mess inside and out. A lot of surface rust on the interior and exterior, and it looks like someone tried to do some preservation work many years ago by brushing paint on her exterior.

    Here are a few pictures of the exterior before I started cleaning house:
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  • DriftwoodieDriftwoodie
    Posts: 28Greasemonkey
    A few more from the interior:
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  • DriftwoodieDriftwoodie
    Posts: 28Greasemonkey
    Now, I'm starting to purge out the rotted materials, such as the seats and side interior pieces, along with cleaning out the trunk. Just touching the interior caused it to fall apart, so I tried to contain as much dust as possible to the interior (kept the shop vac running the entire time!) and bagged it while inside.

    The spring seats seem to be in good (but soft) shape, and I'm thinking I'll just have someone re-pad and re-cover. I don't know if there are interior kits out there, but she's going to need everything at some point. The headliner bows are there, but most of the interior pieces are missing.

    I found out that the interior window trim on three windows had been removed, but I found replacement pieces on Ebay.
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  • DriftwoodieDriftwoodie
    Posts: 28Greasemonkey
    After removing the debris from the interior and trunk, I spent the next few days knocking off all the loose surface rust and preparing it for sealing. I read a few articles on POR-15 and Silver Bullet, and decided to move forward with SB. I saw that a few other people that restored cars basically resealed the entire car in this stuff, so unless someone has reason not to... I'll keep moving forward doing the same.

    I wasn't too worried about runs or drips, but I did try to take my time and give it a really even coat. I started on the roof since it was just one solid coat of surface rust, and used a brush on the edges and tight areas, and then rolled the rest. I have to say... I'm pretty impressed with the SB!

    I also knocked out the pan under the rear window, which has a few rust-thru areas, but nothing major. Looks like the back window leaked over the years. I haven't pulled the rear window and gasket out yet, but can imagine there's something lurking under there for me!

    I decided to clean out the trunk as well, since the original sealant (i think) pretty much came off in large flakes. It looks to be a "tar" type of coating, or maybe undercoat on the interior.

    I didn't attempt anything to the wheel wells or the interior rear quarter panels since they seem to be sealed with no signs of rust. This may be an area to return to later, but as you have mentioned "don't pull the doors/quarter panels off".
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  • DriftwoodieDriftwoodie
    Posts: 28Greasemonkey
    The only other work I've done was pull the hood off so I could get into the engine compartment and take a look around. First thing I noticed was the hood was wired shut. Initially, it was missing the plate that holds the hood latch, but I found one for $40 on Ebay, and it's in the garage now!

    I'd like to clean up the entire suspension, and give it a good couple coats of Silver Bullet, but will wait for a few responses first. It looks like the rubber bushings are still original and pretty cracked, so I'll start looking for replacements.

    I've read a thread that someone took one revolution of the front springs out to lower the front a bit without any problem, and add 2" blocks to the rear to give it a nice "leveled and lowered" look to it, so that may be an option for the future.

    I'm guessing from this point on, with just a ballpark guess, it's going to take a good $10K to $15K just to get her road worthy, but that's just an estimate on my part. I guess I could have just shopped around and found a nice runner for that much, but then where would the fun in that be!
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  • DriftwoodieDriftwoodie
    Posts: 28Greasemonkey
    So that's where I stand today. Maybe I'm a little naive, but I think I can pull this one off. I know it's not a sound investment, but I bought the car as a project for myself and really have no plans for selling it in the future (unless I find the car really is rusted through).

    And maybe July is pushing it a bit much, but I'd like to have it rolling for my 45th!

    I found this a few months ago, and it really caught my eye. It's a publication (which I purchased off Ebay) that I fell in love with. I don't know if I'd be considered a b*stard for wanting the same from mine, but how can you not love this car!

    I'll keep you posted on the progress, but feel free to chime in at any time!

    Thanks again to all those who've already dropped me a line!

    Woodie
    [attachment=9285]49 Super Six Custom.jpg[/attachment]
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  • Hudson308Hudson308
    Posts: 1,405Platinum Member
    I found this a few months ago, and it really caught my eye. It's a publication (which I purchased off Ebay) that I fell in love with. I don't know if I'd be considered a b*stard for wanting the same from mine, but how can you not love this car!

    There are a couple guys on this forum building cars with some inspiration from that sheet. And at least a couple more dreamin about it.
    Workin Stiff
  • servat_hudsonservat_hudson
    Posts: 56Senior Contributor
    HI!
    Excuse me a question.

    I read that it is important not to remove the doors and no rear fender!
    but do not know why.

    I could say that it is important not to remove it?

    Tanks you.
    PS: I take a seat in this post! I think it is very interesting! and valuable to me!
    Congratulations!
    1949 Hudson Commodore
    1969 Seat 850 Especial
    1978 Oldsmobile Cutlass supreme
    1979 Buick Skyhawk
    1985 Pontiac Fiero

    Don't Worry... Be Happy!!
  • Tallent RTallent R
    Posts: 1,576Platinum Member
    Nice to see you joined the HET club. Will open up a world of help to you.
    Great to see your enthusiastic work so far. You will find the Hudson chassis quite drivable. The only weak point is the center steer shaft wich is worn on your car. I can tell you without even looking at it. Update that and maybe put disc brakes on the front and your good to go.
    Another thing you may concider would be the 4speed hydromatic. If you are makeing major changes this would be a nice one. Would mean a different steering column ,linkage and pedals,crossmember,driveshaft, and for best milage rear end.
    But all this would be on a parts car if you find one,
    Roger
    Retired Tech.
  • DriftwoodieDriftwoodie
    Posts: 28Greasemonkey
    Servat- I think the overall thought was to keep things easy and not try to do too much all at once. I've come to find it overwhelming if I think about everything I would like to do, instead of just focusing on one project area at a time.

    Right now, first thing is to complete the cleaning and prep. As soon as I have the shell completed, and finish up the frame, I'll start working on brakes and suspension items. While that's going on, I'm trying to learn as much about the car as possible, and chat with those that have years of experience and see what they suggest.

    I'll look for a motor and trans while cleaning, since I have a separate storage area to put parts, and also get critical parts ordered.

    Good luck with your ride!

    Woodie
  • Hudson308Hudson308
    Posts: 1,405Platinum Member
    HI!
    Excuse me a question.

    I read that it is important not to remove the doors and no rear fender!
    but do not know why.

    I could say that it is important not to remove it?

    Tanks you.
    PS: I take a seat in this post! I think it is very interesting! and valuable to me!
    Congratulations!

    Servat;
    You've asked a good question. For most people working on their first classic restoration, the temptation is to take every nut and bolt apart with the idea to refurbish everything and build it back up. The problems with this for a beginner are numerous and huge. First of all there are ALOT of pieces and systems that must go back together in a particular order and in a particular place. Most enthusiasts don't document how the stuff came apart very well, so they end up with a garage-sized jigsaw puzzle with no instructions for assembly. Second it takes alot of money, time, talent, tools and facilities to properly restore all those parts and pieces. Most beginners don't have enough of any of those, so they end up with a garage-sized jigsaw puzzle without the means to reassemble it. If those parts are stored outside, inclement weather can make a solid project car into a rotted pile of rust pretty quickly. Lastly, when the pile of parts begins to annoy someone else who insists on using that storage space for their own stuff, moving those parts becomes a major task. Rolling those parts up onto a trailer in one piece is much easier. Bottom line is that it's always alot easier to take stuff apart than it is to put it all back together. Working on one area or system at a time, like the interior or brakes or engine, without taking everything else apart will help keep the project from becoming overwhelming.
    Workin Stiff
  • DriftwoodieDriftwoodie
    Posts: 28Greasemonkey
    Tallent R wrote:
    Nice to see you joined the HET club. Will open up a world of help to you... Roger

    Thanks for the kind words. I stressed myself out yesterday after I put together a rough price list of items needed (my initial $10K probably won't be enough!), but feeling better today with everyone's support! I'm still shooting to have her mobile by mid July, so we'll see how well that works out.

    I'll look into your suggestions on the front end. As for changing out to the Hydro, it's probably beyond my expertise to complete, but may be a future project. It was suggested to find a good rebuilt OD trans, so that's where I'll start (unless other suggestions veto that idea). I'd like to keep it as easy as possible to get her up and running, but any improvements along the line that I can complete I'm more than willing to give it a shot!

    Thanks again for your wisdom, and I look forward to hearing more!

    Woodie
  • servat_hudsonservat_hudson
    Posts: 56Senior Contributor
    Woodie, Hudson308.
    I understand what they mean ... I am very agree with how to do things.
    I've learned it's better little by little and area .... good psychology to avoid seeing lots and lots of work at any work! and make things tidy.

    thank you very much everybody!
    and again my congratulations on this project! I would like you to post pictures... whenever possible!;) good job ...
    I have wanted to see how walking around!
    Thanks!
    1949 Hudson Commodore
    1969 Seat 850 Especial
    1978 Oldsmobile Cutlass supreme
    1979 Buick Skyhawk
    1985 Pontiac Fiero

    Don't Worry... Be Happy!!
  • Tallent RTallent R
    Posts: 1,576Platinum Member
    As far as a Hudson goes what you are doing right now is what will sell you on the cars. If you have ever taken a Hudson apart like you are you realy earn a RESPECT FOR THE GUYS THAT PUT IT TOGETHER.
    And as far as your project it is allways easiest to put it back to the way it was. If it did not have a overdrive originaly that is only a matter of the tranny and a different driveshaft (the same one for the hydromatic ). And some wires and your up and going.
    Try and make it to one of the HET meets this summer. The National is in Oklahoma city this year. Will be a lot of parts in the swap meet area and cars to look at.
    Roger:P
    Retired Tech.