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Brake Light Woes
  • hudman51hudman51
    Posts: 119Expert Adviser
    Brake lights quit working unexpectedly. Have installed ground wire from lamp holder to body; have jumpered the switch (shorting the switch leads together) and have brake lights; have used multimeter to check resistance across switch (1 ohm when depressing pedal).

    But when the wiring is connected to switch - no brake lights.

    Any suggestions?
    (Frustrated) Jon
  • VicTor ZVicTor Z
    Posts: 496Platinum Member
    B) Call Walt! Happy New Year Jon and Sue!:cheer:
  • RL ChiltonRL Chilton
    Posts: 3,449Platinum Member
    Have you changed to Silicone Brake Fluid? If so, original-type brake light switches are not compatible. Paul Schuster sells a newer type of switch that will work with the Silicone. I think it's actually a Harley Part.

    Just a suggestion, since you have checked the wiring. Only other thing you might check is the second filament in the bulbs. Possibility both are burned out. Not likely, but had it happen once. I take it your taillights work correctly?
  • hudman51hudman51
    Posts: 119Expert Adviser
    I will verify both filaments. Yes I am using DOT 5 fluid, but (resistance-wise) switch seems functional. If I'm going to change out switches, I may as well get one from Paul.

    Thank you for your suggestions!
    JC
  • schillazschillaz
    Posts: 214Gold Member
    Sounds like the switch to me too, by running the jumper across the switch your testing everything and it sounds like that works fine so it must be the switch.

    Unless you have a weird grounding issue, that comes and goes....those are always fun.

    **Are you running -6volts or a +12volt system in your car?
  • RL ChiltonRL Chilton
    Posts: 3,449Platinum Member
    schillaz wrote:
    Sounds like the switch to me too, by running the jumper across the switch your testing everything and it sounds like that works fine so it must be the switch.

    Unless you have a weird grounding issue, that comes and goes....those are always fun.

    **Are you running -6volts or a +12volt system in your car?

    That's a good point. If 6 volts, grounds are WAYYYY more immportant. Bright and shiny contacts are a must.
  • hudman51hudman51
    Posts: 119Expert Adviser
    A fellow chapter member called up and encouraged me to change the switch. So changed out the switch with a spare here; everything OK (until that one fails); next up is a replacement from Mr. Schuster!

    Thanks for all the help. This car will be back on the road come sun-up!

    J Cronk
  • Hudson308Hudson308
    Posts: 1,405Platinum Member
    Gotta be the switch if the lights work when you jumper around it. I've had the same thing happen. Sounds like one case where the ohmmeter doesn't tell the whole story... your common sense troubleshooting does.
    Workin Stiff
  • Tallent RTallent R
    Posts: 1,572Platinum Member
    If I read your statement correctly ,You shorted the two wires from the switch together and you had brake lights. That means the switch is no good - regardless of what the meter says ,
    Roger
    Retired Tech.
  • RL ChiltonRL Chilton
    Posts: 3,449Platinum Member
    That's great, Hudman! Glad you got it solved.B)
  • PAULARGETYPEPAULARGETYPE
    Posts: 1,239Platinum Member
    HERE IS WHAT THE NEW BRAKE LIGHT SWITCH LOOKS LIKE ,IT IS A HARLEY PART THE THREAD SIZE IS THE SAME AS THE OLD ONES BUT IS A BIT THINNER IN THE BODY ALSO IT WORKS WITH BOTH 6 AND 12 VOLT
    HARLEY DAVISION BRAKE LIGHT SENDING UNIT WORKS GOOD WITH DOT 5 FULID.JPG
    800 x 600 - 24K