Howdy, Stranger!
It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!
Categories
- All Discussions27,038
- Orphaned Marques
- ↳ Hudson21,109
- ↳ Street Rods807
- ↳ Off Topic573
- ↳ American Motors148
- ↳ Kaiser - Frazer70
- ↳ Nash70
- ↳ Packard163
- ↳ Studebaker122
- Classic American Cars
- ↳ Ford Motor Company956
- ↳ Chrysler Corporation477
- ↳ GM Corporation1,396
- ↳ Post War Chevrolets75
- ↳ Pontiac Forum119
- General
- ↳ All makes1,959
- ↳ Poll Discussions24
- Swapmeets & Events
- ↳ Events130
- ↳ Swapmeets108
- Hot Rod Corner
- ↳ Ford Rods90
- ↳ Lead Sleds67
- Special Interest Groups
- ↳ The Flathead Forum139
- European marques
- ↳ MG Car Company2
- ↳ Mercedes-Benz2
In this Discussion
- hudman51 December 2010
- Hudson308 December 2010
- PAULARGETYPE December 2010
- RL Chilton December 2010
- schillaz December 2010
- Tallent R December 2010
- VicTor Z December 2010
Brake Light Woes
-
Brake lights quit working unexpectedly. Have installed ground wire from lamp holder to body; have jumpered the switch (shorting the switch leads together) and have brake lights; have used multimeter to check resistance across switch (1 ohm when depressing pedal).
But when the wiring is connected to switch - no brake lights.
Any suggestions?
(Frustrated) Jon -
Call Walt! Happy New Year Jon and Sue!:cheer: -
Have you changed to Silicone Brake Fluid? If so, original-type brake light switches are not compatible. Paul Schuster sells a newer type of switch that will work with the Silicone. I think it's actually a Harley Part.
Just a suggestion, since you have checked the wiring. Only other thing you might check is the second filament in the bulbs. Possibility both are burned out. Not likely, but had it happen once. I take it your taillights work correctly? -
I will verify both filaments. Yes I am using DOT 5 fluid, but (resistance-wise) switch seems functional. If I'm going to change out switches, I may as well get one from Paul.
Thank you for your suggestions!
JC -
Sounds like the switch to me too, by running the jumper across the switch your testing everything and it sounds like that works fine so it must be the switch.
Unless you have a weird grounding issue, that comes and goes....those are always fun.
**Are you running -6volts or a +12volt system in your car? -
schillaz wrote:Sounds like the switch to me too, by running the jumper across the switch your testing everything and it sounds like that works fine so it must be the switch.
Unless you have a weird grounding issue, that comes and goes....those are always fun.
**Are you running -6volts or a +12volt system in your car?
That's a good point. If 6 volts, grounds are WAYYYY more immportant. Bright and shiny contacts are a must. -
A fellow chapter member called up and encouraged me to change the switch. So changed out the switch with a spare here; everything OK (until that one fails); next up is a replacement from Mr. Schuster!
Thanks for all the help. This car will be back on the road come sun-up!
J Cronk -
Gotta be the switch if the lights work when you jumper around it. I've had the same thing happen. Sounds like one case where the ohmmeter doesn't tell the whole story... your common sense troubleshooting does.Workin Stiff
-
If I read your statement correctly ,You shorted the two wires from the switch together and you had brake lights. That means the switch is no good - regardless of what the meter says ,
RogerRetired Tech. -
That's great, Hudman! Glad you got it solved.
-
HERE IS WHAT THE NEW BRAKE LIGHT SWITCH LOOKS LIKE ,IT IS A HARLEY PART THE THREAD SIZE IS THE SAME AS THE OLD ONES BUT IS A BIT THINNER IN THE BODY ALSO IT WORKS WITH BOTH 6 AND 12 VOLTHARLEY DAVISION BRAKE LIGHT SENDING UNIT WORKS GOOD WITH DOT 5 FULID.JPG800 x 600 - 24K


