ClassicCar

DavidC

I am planning to convert my head/block over to 1/2 inch studs for the improved clamping. Basically it's part of the 'do everything on my wish list while she's disassembled' plan. The only part number I've found is Caterpillar 3H7927, which Mr. Bennett is credited with on Ken Cate's site. It fits the Clifford Head. Will this work with the 262 head on a 308, or is the 262 taller, and therefore needs a different stud length?

Dale Cooper has bolts, but not studs. I'm looking to go with the questionably more aesthetically pleasing stud arrangement.

Any one with stock or a good part number or source for 1/2 inch studs, please chime in. Thanks.

Hudsonly,

Dave Carpenter

hudsontech

I'm hope your block is already tapped for 1/2"??? I converted 2 308's back-in-the-day and I'm here to tell you I wouldn't do it again. I'd find a machine shop to do the job. Admittedly this was back in the 70's, so perhaps tools have improved since then.

Those chrome alloy blocks are a b$#@ch to drill out.

Hudsonly,

Alex Burr

Memphis, TN

dougson

I saw a while back about crank or rod studs for the 454 Chevy block will work in a Hudson block. I have Hudson studs and it appears there are two lengths. Don't know why, maybe longer ones are where brackets attach. And I agree that tapping a 7/16" block for 1/2" studs will be a chore. One reason I bought a '56 308 for my resto. project

Ol racer

Dougson,

The guys are right the block can be drilled and tapped by hand but with 21 holes it gets tedious. The best method is have an automotive machine shop tap to ensure threads are accurate otherwise the Cyl head wont slide over the studs.

Cifford Heads are at least 1/2" Thicker than Hudson.

New ARP Studs can be obtained from Randy Maas

or, suggest going to Dorman's Web Site to look up the size need & Part Number then go to an Automotive Store to order.

Dorman makes hundreds of sizes But most Stores today wont bother to look it up)[/I

Steve E

Little tip for those who don't know, Hudson heads were 2 inches thick when new, exactly 2 in!

ski4life65

About 20 yrs. ago I did it to a 51 block. I think it took about 6 drill bits and a few taps to get the job done. Around the 5th hole, I concluded I had made a huge mistake. I finished, but it wasn't fun. It did look good though.

hudsontech

ski4life65 wrote:

About 20 yrs. ago I did it to a 51 block. I think it took about 6 drill bits and a few taps to get the job done. Around the 5th hole, I concluded I had made a huge mistake. I finished, but it wasn't fun. It did look good though.

Got you beat - took me 8 drill bits on the first, and 7 on the 2nd block. I forgot how many taps I busted, but enough to raise the price of the company's stock a few points.

Hudsonly,

Alex Burr

Memphis, TN

walts garage-53 · walts garage-53 September 2010 Posts: 1,486Platinum Member

DavidC wrote:

I am planning to convert my head/block over to 1/2 inch studs for the improved clamping. Basically it's part of the 'do everything on my wish list while she's disassembled' plan. The only part number I've found is Caterpillar 3H7927, which Mr. Bennett is credited with on Ken Cate's site. It fits the Clifford Head. Will this work with the 262 head on a 308, or is the 262 taller, and therefore needs a different stud length?

Dale Cooper has bolts, but not studs. I'm looking to go with the questionably more aesthetically pleasing stud arrangement.

Any one with stock or a good part number or source for 1/2 inch studs, please chime in. Thanks.

Hudsonly,

Dave Carpenter

You are asking for trouble with studs. After you run it a few miles and have to remove the head, good luck. Use bolts and remove with now trouble. My cylinder head has 132,000 miles with bolts, and still no problems. And you all know how I drive my Hudson. Walt.

Hudson308

As stated, the factory heads are 2" thick before any cutting, while the Clifford head is 3". I had the machine shop drill and tap my block while doing all the other machining. The slight added cost was worth every penny. I'd take Walt's advice on the studs... ESPECIALLY if you're going to use the superior "Best" brand head gasket. These gaskets stick so well that pulling the head later results in ripping the gasket apart in layers. You end up with a full layer stuck to the block, and another one on the head. I've had NO leaks using these and grade 8 bolts available at Ace Hardware, combined with head bolt washers designed for aluminum Big Block Chevies. This is with a factory aluminum or cast iron head shaved .060". I can't imagine trying to pull a head off of studs with one of these gaskets. One caution with the hardware store bolts, though... the 7/16" versions have puny heads on em. The 1/2" versions seem to be fine. While you're at it, grab the "Best" thermostat housing gasket as well. Doug Wildrick sent me one and it finally sealed that weeping Hash gooseneck that was driving me (more) nutz. :rolleyes:

RL Chilton

Only downside I can see is an aesthetic one. Acorn nuts, which are really attractive on flatheads could not be utilized, unless someone makes an acorn "cap" to fit onto the bolt head.

Hudson308

RL Chilton wrote:

Only downside I can see is an aesthetic one. Acorn nuts, which are really attractive on flatheads could not be utilized, unless someone makes an acorn "cap" to fit onto the bolt head.

Like these, Russell?

[ATTACH]9531[/ATTACH]

Kdancy

Isn't that pretty!

What finish did you do your intake with ?

Hudson308

Kdancy wrote:

Isn't that pretty!

What finish did you do your intake with ?

I used a liberal dose of fine abrasives, aluminum polish & elbow grease.

RL Chilton

Hudson308 wrote:

Like these, Russell?

[ATTACH]9531[/ATTACH]

Yep!! Just like that.

DavidC

Thank you all for the tremendously valuable responses.

It would appear the consensus is to have professional tap job done, and ask self whether the bling is worth the maintenace fiasco.

Yes, I am definitely going to have a professional machine shop due the tapping.

Yes, the look of the acorn nuts was the driving force. What price vanity? Look at that beautiful yellow block! Who can blame me?

Walt and others, I now fear a future head removal post-stud install. I was planning to use one of Dale Cooper's modern head gaskets, so the adhesion problem would be real. Only reasonable stud option would be to ensure the studs are easily removable, perhaps Allen-drive like some modern studs, and set in plenty of the anti-seize sealants recommended in other forum strings? Will talk with Mr Maas.

Other option would be to chrome 1/2 inch bolts from Mr. Cooper- not quite as pretty as acorns, but still flashy.

Thanks again to everyone who replied.

Dave C

Ol racer

FYI

The ARP Studs Randy Maas (maasfh@ntslink.net )sells have Allen Wrench tops for ez to install/remove........

JC Whitney and others sell chrome Acorn Nuts

Hudson308

Ol racer wrote:

FYI

The ARP Studs Randy Maas (maasfh@ntslink.net )sells have Allen Wrench tops for ez to install/remove........

JC Whitney and others sell chrome Acorn Nuts

That would certainly make things easier.

Just to clarify... the acorn "nuts" on that yelluh motor are actually metal slip-on caps pushed onto the bolt heads, as purchased thru JC Whitney. I suppose it would be just as easy to push these caps onto nuts/studs as well, provided the stud length is within tolerances required to clear the inside of the cap.

ratlee2

What about chrome acorn bolt caps. Still get the look you're after without the hassle. Looks like they offer difference sizes depending on whether you go 1/2" or keep the 7"16" BOLTS. Gotta love the shinny aluminum intakes. One of those is in my future as well.

-Rich

[ATTACH]9544[/ATTACH]

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Chrome-Bolt-Toppers-Acorn-caps-Hot-Nut-Covers-METAL_W0QQitemZ260454488264QQcmdZViewItemQQptZMotorcycles_Parts_Accessories

TwinH

My 49 came to me with a cracked Clifford head that was studded and yes

it was a pain to get off. After getting the head repaired I got the ARP studs

that have an allen head recess on the fine thread end. I coated the full

length of the studs with never seize as part of the problem getting the

head off was the dissimilar metal corrosion between the studs and aluminum

head. Haven't had to remove it yet but my thinking is the studs should turn

right out and the never seize should also stop the water from leaking past

the threads on the deck. Finished it off with chrome acorn covers on the nuts

from http://www.thenightprowlers.com/ at like $.60/pc.

Hudson308

Man I just never get tired of looking at pictures of hopped up Hudsons! To show you guys just how deep the sickness goes, here are a couple shots of a detail I'm adding to my next 308 project...

[ATTACH]9547[/ATTACH]

[ATTACH]9546[/ATTACH]

I took a bag of these chrome bolt covers and chucked em up in a lathe to drill the appropriate sized hole from the inside. This isn't easy as the material they make these things from is pretty hard. A little kapton tape wrapped around the hex kept the chuck jaws from gouging the sides too much. After flipping em over I added the rear quarter-inch or so of some nickel plated shell casings, using a dollop of JB weld to secure them. Those with sharp eyes may be able to see the round size stamped on the back (top).

GrimGreaser

Oh HELL yes! Consider that idea pilfered.

Very cool!

hoggyrubber

yes, i have to say waaay cool. 308 winchester!

essexcoupe3131

Hudson308 wrote:

Like these, Russell?

[ATTACH]9531[/ATTACH]

That is real classy,

love the super clean details and the color, what can i say:D

Mike

RL Chilton

308-

That's a heck of an idea!! Very cool! Don't be surprised if you see these on someone else's Hudson in the future. "308" on the casing is a super touch.

RL Chilton

Ol racer wrote:

FYI

The ARP Studs Randy Maas (maasfh@ntslink.net )sells have Allen Wrench tops for ez to install/remove........
JC Whitney and others sell chrome Acorn Nuts

This sounds like the most reasonable plan, to me. Solid mechanical performance and the "look".

DavidC

Thanks again to all. I now have a solid plan for professionally drilled 1/2 holes, grade 8 bolts, and chrome nut caps. Perfect!

Dave Carpenter

Hudson308

RL Chilton wrote:

308-

That's a heck of an idea!! Very cool! Don't be surprised if you see these on someone else's Hudson in the future. "308" on the casing is a super touch.

I thought about that before I posted the pics, but decided I wouldn't mind seeing someone else do this at all. Heck, I wouldn't mind just seeing another 308 at the car shows here in the Twin Cities. So few Hudsons show up that I ain't a skeered a no copycats.

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