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car stalls
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my 55 ford has a 302 in it, everything is new and ran great for 800 miles, now when i drive, after 5 miles the engine stalls on me, it doesnt seem like a carb problem because after a couple re-start and stalls it doesnt want to start until after it sits a while, the battery/starter/alternator are also all new and ive never had this issue before either- i cant figure it out, it always starts fine and drives then, then after 5 miles the engine quits on me- john

55 web 1_127929993255560.jpg720 x 480 - 98K -
It sounds as if it may be due to insufficient fuel supply. Here is a list of possibilities from the Motors Manual.
1. Carburetor inlet needle stuck in its seat, due to gum in fuel.
2. Float level too low.
3. Clogged inlet screen at carburetor.
4. Faulty fuel pump or one of insufficient capacity.
5. Fuel pump strainer or fuel filter clogged..
6. Flexible line or hose twisted, deteriorated or restricted.
7. Fuel line or hose to tank clogged, kinked, restricted or leaking.
8. Vent in fuel tank filler cap clogged or restricted.
(There are vented caps and none vented cap. You should have a vented cap.)
If the gas tank is old it may have stuff in it that is cloggiing the sock on the end of the fuel pickup tube, inside the tank. There may be enough restriction to alow enough gas to trickle toward the pump to start the engine but not allow enough gas to keep running.
You can check the fuel pressure and watch the gage when the engine begins to quit. If the pressure drops off before the engine quits running there is a restriction between the carb and gas tank.
Hope this is helpful. Lee
P.S. What is that box in the fender well? -
Your off to a good start Scott.
Since the filter is full of bad crud after only 800 miles, it might be a good idea to drop the gas tank and clean it out real good, and replace any rubber fuel hoses that haven't aready been replaced. Also, with compressed air, blow through the fuel lines to remove any crud that may be in it.
Even though clear filters make it easy to see the crud, they don't always filter out all the crud. With so much crud in the filter, you may need to inspect the carb float bowl for any crud gettling by the filter, by removing the carb top.
Good luck Scott. Lee -
Or you can try another coil.
Ron -
Of course you could take some time and when it stalls, do some checking.
See if you have fuel when you operate the throttle.
See if you have spark at the plugs when you crank it.
Ron -
changed the coil-- i went the same 5 miles, this time it was cooler and had the lights on- engine shut-off again at about the 5 mile spot!- it started up again as usual, but continued driving just makes stalling time quicker and harder to re-start engine- this is crazy!-- the gas filter was clean and it has gas in it-- only other thing im thinking about is, the electric fuel pump must be working ok, but it has an electric choke in it, the flaps are open, but maybe something else in the choke system would cause this?- john
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i bought it like this- ill take a pic if needed, but the pump seems to work ok, im getting totally disgusted here, i took it for inspection and asked the mechanics to check the stalling issue, they couldnt find anything wrong!- naturally they didnt drive it 5 miles 1st though- is it possible the choke isnt working right? the flap is open, but something must be cutting off the fuel supply or electric system somehow
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OK. Your doing good. Don't get discouraged. This is a step by step process to find the problem. You have eliminated one possible problem. No electric fuel pump. The electric pump information got me thinking in the wrong direction.
There are three basic things needed for the engine to run. Air, fuel and spark. Air is in abundance, the choke on the car is open. That leave fuel and spark. Remember, take one step at a time. The next step is Ron's suggestion in his post. You will need someone to go with you. Remove the air cleaner before the test drive. When the engine quits get out, open the hood, look into the carburator, work the throttle lever on the carb. Gas should squirt into the carburator. That will tell you if there is gas getting into the engine. Next, install a screwdriver into the end of the plug wire and hold it about 1/8 inch from bare metal on the engine. This is where someone with you can help. Have him try to start the car while you check for spark between the screwdriver and the engine. That will tell you if you have spark.
Next, let us know what you found out. Remember, this is a step by step process. The solution is in knowing witch system to diagnose. We need to know if your are not getting gas or not getting spark. From there we can go though steps necessary to find the solution to the problem. Ron, I, and others have ideas to the solution but we need your answers to guide you through, to the right system, to find the right answer to your problem.
From our experiences, and sometime from misinformation, we sometimes jump the gun by throwing out alot of possible solutions without really knowing where the problem is. Then the person goes out and buys alot parts, that may not be needed, hoping that part will solve the problem. We don't want you doing that. Diagnosis is a step by step approach to isolate where the problem is. THEN, cure the problem.
Your empute is important.
Good hunting. We want you past the 5 mile marker. Lee -
LMAO
Thanks Jon
Ron -
ok heres the lastest- same 5 miles, engine shuts off!- this time i checked the carb before i left and the jet were squirting gas- i took off the air cleaner to make sure air was plentiful- started right up as usual and shut-off after 5 miles- then i checked the carb jets again and gas was squirting as it should- i didnt check the 'spark' because the car started right back up, then shut off again as soon as i started driving it-- one thing, this may sound ridicuous but it has loker shifter in it, when i got the car the reverse 'lock out' wasnt working, so i tightened up the hex screw and the got it 'fixed', by that i mean i couldnt put the car in reverse unless i pushed the button in 1st, i assume this is correct because if it got accidently bumped before, you could of knocked it into reverse while driving-- now would THIS have any possible relation to the stalling?- other then that- im back to square 1- john
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The problem with any vehicle that has an intermitent problem like yours is the getting to do it with any regularity and not decide to work properly when you examine it.
I think you will have to wait until it quits again and look at the carb again. It sounds like the fuel is not the problem but, until you can not start the car and see the fuel squirt, nothing is a given.
There is a possibility that you just have a bad connection somewere in the ignition system.
I would drive the car all over the place and wait till it happens and then check, fuel and spark. You may want to have someone foloow you though just in case you can't get it going again.
Keep us posted.
Ron -
ok, i narrowed it down to what i think is a fuel problem, after the stalling starts, i noticed gas does squirt into the carb, but the visible fuel filter isnt very active, so ill try a new fuel pump, if that doesnt solve it, it must be a clog somewhere, i would imagine in the tank itself if it has some kind of filtering device in it, does this make sense?- john
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If it's stalling from fuel starvation I would think you will not see any fuel squirt into the carb after it stalls.
There is a filter on the end of the pick up tube, some call it a sock (because it looks like a sock). Over the years when I had suspected a faulty one, I would remove the fuel line at the pump (the one from the tank) and blow compressed air back into the tank and blow the sock off.
I hope you find your problem.
Ron -
Fixed!!- as suspected it was fuel problem- i noticed more sludge in the new filter, the lines were semi clogged from the gas tank, the culprit was the gas tank, so its getting renewed now and i should have the car running tip-top after this problem- john
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Excellent! A bit of advice, ditch all the rubber hose and bend up some nice hard lines to the carb. Rubber hoses are a fire hazard and you have a lot of loose hose running around and near the exhaust headers. I have seen many nice cars burned up over sloppy fuel lines. If you can't bend tube, find a good quality stainless steel braided fuel hose to use with fittings.
Nice Ride!Ted J. Welch
Managing Editor
ClassicTruckShop.com -
twelch wrote:Excellent! A bit of advice, ditch all the rubber hose and bend up some nice hard lines to the carb. Rubber hoses are a fire hazard and you have a lot of loose hose running around and near the exhaust headers. I have seen many nice cars burned up over sloppy fuel lines. If you can't bend tube, find a good quality stainless steel braided fuel hose to use with fittings.
Nice Ride!
NIX the steel braided fuel hose. They leak also. I put one on my El Camino a year ago between the fuel pump and carb. It started squirting fuel out of the side. Good thing I smelled the fumes. I opened the hood while the engine was running and it was squirting a steady streem of fuel about about six inches long.
I'm back to using steel lines for fuel. May not be trendy but safer.
As a former aircraft mechanic I should have known better because we replaced many steel braded hoses on planes,
Lee O'Dell
Go steel fuel lines. -
You are right about steel if you can do it. I just replaced my fuel pump on 1947 Hudson truck. An electric one mounted on the frame behind passengers door. It was only a year old and the "New Rubber Hose" was allready mushy. And it was supposed to be compatible with the new gas.
RogerRetired Tech.