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262 linkage
  • Aaron D. IL
    Posts: 1,648Platinum Member
    I've just put a 1949 262 in my Pacemaker with a standard carb. Now maybe this is just a function of the fact that I've only ever owned short WB Hudson's but the linkage seems overly complicated to me.... lots of extra return springs and coils at the joints and an adjuster or 2 and it all seems to put more tension on the linkage (at least when trying to move it by hand)



    My question is, what is the function of all those coils and springs? Or is it a lot of extra linkage associated with something like a car equipped with DriveMaster / Vacumotive Drive? Should I simplify it ? Should I leave it alone and if so what adjustments are on the linkage?? The manual isn't real detailed about the linkage.



    Any info would be helpful... thanks.
  • hudsonguyhudsonguy
    Posts: 754Platinum Member
    Aaron D. IL wrote:
    I've just put a 1949 262 in my Pacemaker with a standard carb. Now maybe this is just a function of the fact that I've only ever owned short WB Hudson's but the linkage seems overly complicated to me.... lots of extra return springs and coils at the joints and an adjuster or 2 and it all seems to put more tension on the linkage (at least when trying to move it by hand)



    My question is, what is the function of all those coils and springs? Or is it a lot of extra linkage associated with something like a car equipped with DriveMaster / Vacumotive Drive? Should I simplify it ? Should I leave it alone and if so what adjustments are on the linkage?? The manual isn't real detailed about the linkage.



    Any info would be helpful... thanks.



    Aaron,



    Glad to hear your Pace has it's new heart in place!



    Hudson308 and I had a discussion once about how there must have been a entire design group at Hudson whose job it was to add as much complexity to the early stepdown throttle linkage as possible. Or like you pointed out, it might have been for Drivemaster's sake.



    Either way, I'd vote for simplifying it. I tried to restore this linkage assembly on mine, and was never able to get it to return to a good idle 100% of the time. There were just so many points of movement, and all it takes is a little wear at any of those points, and it might hang up. A strong return spring would take care of it, but your right leg will not like it on long drives.



    Good Luck,

    Doug
  • Aaron D. IL
    Posts: 1,648Platinum Member
    Thanks for the response. I was looking at it yesterday and the overdrive manual and thought that maybe '48-'49 Hudson's has the overdrive kickdown switch on the linkage instead of under the pedal. The solonoid has 4 posts on it instead of 2 like my '50... and a 3 prong plug that attaches to them. The OD relay have 6 instead leads instead of 4 like mine. So maybe I can simplify the linkage. .... It goes around the oil filter and it has to mate to my Pacemaker pedal which is a little different.
  • kamzackkamzack
    Posts: 401Gold Member
    Take a look at "Lokar Performance Products". They've been mentioned here before and they do make a quality product. Would make it real simple.

    Kim
  • 51hornetA51hornetA
    Posts: 2,338Platinum Member
    On my 66 GMC truck I used a Lokar Cable system. Got rid of all the linkages and down to one throttle cable. Super clean look and nice function. Maybe a little to high tech for a Hudson but they have more traditional linkages that you can make yourself a clean install with.
    www.hudsonmotorcar.org
  • Hudson308Hudson308
    Posts: 1,405Platinum Member
    hudsonguy wrote:
    Hudson308 and I had a discussion once about how there must have been a entire design group at Hudson whose job it was to add as much complexity to the early stepdown throttle linkage as possible.



    Must have been a phone/email discussion, Doug... this is the only thread I could find.

    http://classiccar.com/index.php?option=com_jfusion&Itemid=62&jfile=showthread.php&t=20845



    The '51-up LWB single-carb linkage is much simpler, but the earlier blocks lack the bellcrank boss on the upper left rear of the block necessary to swap it in.
    Workin Stiff
  • hudsonguyhudsonguy
    Posts: 754Platinum Member
    Hudson308 wrote: »
    Must have been a phone/email discussion, Doug... this is the only thread I could find.



    As I recall, Jerre, it was an old fashioned face to face discussion. Like they all used to be! I think it must have been at a Back to the 50's weekend, or a Hudson meet.



    Anyway, Aaron, for what it's worth, I looked at a spare '49 Commodore (with OD) floor pan I have last night, and the kickdown switch IS mounted under the pedal like the later models.
  • Aaron D. IL
    Posts: 1,648Platinum Member
    Well I went ahead and simplified the linkage.. looks cleaner, less springs and more easy to adapt to my Pacemaker pivot bracket on the firewall.

    My mistake on the kickdown switch being on the linkage.... I looked at the overdrive manual again and caption to the pic that shows that says "for a Packard" Some other companies shared the same OD I guess and adapted it different ways.
  • Hudson308Hudson308
    Posts: 1,405Platinum Member
    Aaron D. IL wrote:
    Well I went ahead and simplified the linkage.. looks cleaner, less springs and more easy to adapt to my Pacemaker pivot bracket on the firewall.



    Share some pics if you can, Aaron... you can't be the only man on the planet with this combo. :p

    Here's a better shot of the Lokar cable mount for those so inclined. I used a second '49-style throttle/plug wire bracket turned sideways for the mount. It was sliced next to the cross-shaft pivot hole, leaving only the larger hole next to it. I also cut off most of the bottom strap as well as the twisted strap for the plug wire loops. The loops had already been cut open, so I didn't feel bad cutting up a stock piece. If you're fabricating this from scratch, I'd suggest using two head bolt holes in the bottom strap to prevent rotation while torquing the bolts.



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    Workin Stiff
  • bobdriveshudsonbobdriveshudson
    Posts: 582Platinum Member
    308:

    Did you decide not to run the aluminum head? I looked back at a previous post and saw one on your yellow block. How about another pic straight on(from the front) of the linkage. Thanks, Bob
  • Hudson308Hudson308
    Posts: 1,405Platinum Member
    bobdriveshudson wrote:
    308:

    Did you decide not to run the aluminum head? I looked back at a previous post and saw one on your yellow block. How about another pic straight on(from the front) of the linkage. Thanks, Bob



    Good eye, Bob! (Hey... I think that's how they'd greet you in Aust-eye-lia :D)

    At the risk of sending Aaron's thread in ten directions, here's the story. The aluminum head is on the 308 that I fried a couple exhaust valves in last year. My best guess is I didn't get the intake manifold seated properly after adjusting the tappets. I'm probably lucky I didn't melt a hole in those pricey Ross pistons. If I'm going to replace those valves, I may as well have hardened seats installed so I don't hafta keep adding CD2 to my fuel. If I'm going to have hardened seats installed, I may as well pop for that cam from Randy Maas I've been dreaming about. And if I'm going to... well, you get the picture. Mission creep had me casting about for a quick alternative so I can drive this thing this summer. The "temporary" 262 shown above will hopefully enable me to stuff my piggy bank enough to pay for fixing the 308.

    To get back to the linkage issue, here's the "straigt on" shot you asked for. The black bracket doesn't stand out well against the firewall, so I've added an angled shot with the air cleaner removed. As you can see, this cleaned up the linkage quite a bit... no more coat hanger wire!



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    New262_26_127890701947027.jpg
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    New262_35_127891366547027.jpg
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    Workin Stiff