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In this Discussion
- 46HudsonPU July 2010
- bigboy308 July 2010
- bobdriveshudson July 2010
- brumac July 2010
- DaveFury July 2010
- dougson June 2010
- essexcoupe3131 June 2010
- faustmb June 2010
- GrimGreaser July 2010
- hornet53 June 2010
- Hudson308 July 2010
- hudsonguy July 2010
- ivanz62 July 2010
- Jim Kilday July 2010
- MikeWA July 2010
- PaceRacer50 June 2010
- Ray June 2010
- ski4life65 July 2010
- super651 July 2010
- TwinH June 2010
Any one interested in aluminum valve/tappet covers?
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I had to pull the manifolds off last weekend due to a busted carb stud, and seeing the filthy state my 308 is currently in I pulled off the valve covers to clean 'em up too. Now I've got plans rolling around in my head about making some finned and/or 'HUDSON' scripted covers out of aluminum. I've got plenty of CAD experience and access to a nice CNC milling machine.
I'm thinking simple finned cover with a standard PCV/breather grommet hole for the back and a finned/HUDSON cover up front where one has a better chance to see it tucked under those manifolds.
Who might be interested? I have no idea about price or anything like that right now, just trying to gauge interest. I'll update when I have some drawings made up, too.
Also, pondering a simple adapter to bolt a regular Chevy/aftermarket waterneck and thermostat in place of the Hudson unit. Simple aluminum plate, bolts to head then waterneck bolts to the plate. Any thoughts on that?Six in a row makes it GO! -
Hi Grim Greaser,
I think that is a great idea and would be interested in the tappet covers if the price isn't out of sight As to the water outlet, I like the shape of the old Hud gooseneck. I use a simple flat plate to almost block off the bypass just like Walt Mordenti suggests and that works fine for me.
Brucehttp://classicar.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif -
i would be interested in two or three sets of these for the 232-262-308 engines.
thanks,
Ralph
aka: PaceRacer50 -
Quick Solidworks model. Not dimensioned, not final...
Six in a row makes it GO! -
Put me down for 2 sets if this comes to be. One for the car and one for the future car!
What are you thinking for gaskets?1953 Hornet sedan Twin-H
Custom front springs, drop-blocks out back, Clifford 6-2 headers exiting out back shotgun style, Pertronix, and Flames!
1964 Chevy C-10 Longbed, 396/TH400 lowered just enough and \"easy to touch up\" Black paint.
2003 Ford Crown Victoria Police Interceptor
Caved in quarter and fender. Bad paint. Non-True-Trac heap. But it's paid for. -
I'd take a pair. And just to throw out for discussion,how bout a register
on the back to locate the gasket? Also,I'm not opposed to running a PCV
setup and like the idea but currently using the road draft tube with the
Clifford headers. Have you considered any baffling for the PCV port
(or is there even room)?
Anybody running a PCV with a Twin-H manifold? Where did you plumb
the vacuum source? Pics would be even better. -
Are they done yet?1953 Hornet sedan Twin-H
Custom front springs, drop-blocks out back, Clifford 6-2 headers exiting out back shotgun style, Pertronix, and Flames!
1964 Chevy C-10 Longbed, 396/TH400 lowered just enough and \"easy to touch up\" Black paint.
2003 Ford Crown Victoria Police Interceptor
Caved in quarter and fender. Bad paint. Non-True-Trac heap. But it's paid for. -
What you can't see on the back is the relief to index the cover and gasket onto the engine. Plan to have these use the standard cork/rubber gasket. Though, there's all sorts of interesting gasket material at McMaster.com one could play with.
I've used these: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-G3413/ on my Chevy and they work pretty good.
There should be enough meat (plan cutting these from 1/2" plate) on the back to bolt any sort of baffling one would want, even a mount for the draft tube.Six in a row makes it GO! -
all you boys are spoilt for choice, good on ya GRimGreaser for thinking of the community
Mike -
Let me know the price, two pair. Thanks, Bob
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Glad to see folks are interested, I'll do my best to get these going. Figured I could use my fancy degree for something I really enjoy. Not that this requires a whole heck of a lot of engineering, but I sure did spend a lot of money to learn to use SolidWorks...Six in a row makes it GO!
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I prefer the original design myself!
Please keep in mind that the original steel parts often were bent by over tightening and didn't seal well as a result. Make 'em thick enough where it counts. The original design looks like it might get more stiffness from the ribs, but I'd buy either style.
Thanks--Ivan -
I know what you mean, but the previous design was done up from memory. 3 x 9 was what i started with, but the covers are actually ~3.5 x 13.5. Having the bolt holes in the 'U' and 'O' might still work, have to play with it. I switched because it was a pain to set up the letters that way. I considered sqeezing the HUDSON in between, but to keep the cut time (and thus price) down the letters need to be nice and big to be able to use larger cutters. Don't worry about thickness, these will be cut from 1/2" plate.
Nothings final yet.
Six in a row makes it GO! -
I like this much better. The fins are trimmed down 1/16 of an inch to reveal the letters.
Here's a view of the back, 1/4 inch relief to hold gasket and align the cover with the engine:
Six in a row makes it GO! -
Any further progress?1953 Hornet sedan Twin-H
Custom front springs, drop-blocks out back, Clifford 6-2 headers exiting out back shotgun style, Pertronix, and Flames!
1964 Chevy C-10 Longbed, 396/TH400 lowered just enough and \"easy to touch up\" Black paint.
2003 Ford Crown Victoria Police Interceptor
Caved in quarter and fender. Bad paint. Non-True-Trac heap. But it's paid for. -
The gears are turning... I'm waiting for my buddy to get back from business travel and to free up some time on his companies CNC. Plan is to cut some test covers, see how long and involved they actually are to cut out. From there refine the design again and come up with prices. Then I'll start queuing up orders in the order folks expressed interest here, if they're still interested.
That said, many of you guys have said 'reasonable price' here. Well, what do you guys see as a reasonable price? Keep in mind, these will be time and toolbit intensive (at least for the 'HUDSON' cover). Anodizing (red, black, clear) may be available, but I don't want to get ahead of myself here.Six in a row makes it GO! -
Hi grimgreaser, Some good solid carbide cutters and fluid will make easy meat of the Ali
1 jig and you got it for as many as you want, I would have done a bit more of this sort of stuff but my CNC doesn't have fluid running with it, was made for wood instead of metal and as you now it makes a lot of mess,I spent too much time cleaning up last time
Mike -
Believe me, my friend knows how to make his CNC cut damn fast, and more than 90% of the cutting is with at least a 1/4 inch tool. It's the 1/8 and 1/16 inch cuts, while minimal, that slow everything down. However, until we actually cut some out I want to remain mute on price.Six in a row makes it GO!
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The one with the PCV/breather hole has been cut. The one with letters should be cut Tuesday.

Image_00188_127894836355399.jpg1131 x 848 - 84K
Image_00187_127894698555399.jpg1105 x 829 - 83KSix in a row makes it GO! -
WOW! I like it.
-
Still very interested. Give us a ball park, hi/lo figure. Thanks, Bob
-
Hmmm... A set for my 232, please!
After you get settled, think about making some for the 175 & 212 'splasher' engines... -
On the engine for comparison. Don't mind the filth...Image_00197-sm_127900228955399.JPG640 x 480 - 56KSix in a row makes it GO!
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Just an idea, because I know we're a bunch of cheapskates- How about two versions- one with HUDSON on the front cover, and one just the same as the rear, without the breather? Would be less money, and might bring it down to a more acceptable price for the more Scottish among us.
-
I'm sure GG will chime in, but all a third cover would do is take slightly less time on the CNC, and require keeping track of three rather than two different designs. Same amount of stock material, etc., so I doubt it would change the total cost much. But I guess, this isn't my business, or call.
What I was wondering is what will the lack of internal baffling do (or not do)? I'm sure those Hudson engineers had a reason for each internal surface, which would not be included in the above billet cover. Just curious if anyone has any ideas on this? -
hudsonguy wrote:What I was wondering is what will the lack of internal baffling do (or not do)? I'm sure those Hudson engineers had a reason for each internal surface, which would not be included in the above billet cover. Just curious if anyone has any ideas on this?
There are a number of baffle solutions available from speed parts suppliers such as Jegs or Summit, Doug. Although designed for installation on the inside of OHV valve covers, one of them should work for these tappet covers.
http://www.jegs.com/i/Moroso/710/68790/10002/-1
http://www.jegs.com/i/Billet-Specialties/135/RP956034/10002/-1?parentProductId=1140100
http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/50128/10002/-1?parentProductId=1173110
Interested to know what the "Good Guy Greaser" price will be on the covers!
Workin Stiff -
Bring on the covers for the splasher engines.
-
Alright, got the 'Hudson' cover cut, as you can see below.
Now, about pricing... Looks like for a pair of plain covers, one with a breather hole and one without it'll be $650-700 with at least 12 orders. The 'Hudson' cover itself will be around $600, again with at least 12 orders. The plain covers take about 30-40 minutes to cut, the 'Hudson' cover took close to 3 hours. Just to give you an idea about the machine time and the price difference. Now, if I haven't scared too many of you off, let me know if you're still interested, either here or through private messages.
I will be gone on a fishing trip from this Saturday thru the 24-25th, so details, and firm pricing, will be worked out after that.
Seeing how much the Hudson cover is, and also considering Chrysler getting a bug in their ass about using 'Hudson', I've also made a cover with simply '308' and '262'. I just made these yesterday, I don't have a price, but it will be less than the full 'Hudson' cover.
If folks want other covers, I will need a physical example to take measurements from. But first, we'll see how all this works out.
Image_00200_127937471955399.jpg1127 x 845 - 82K
HudCover 308_127935176955399.jpg1035 x 455 - 59KSix in a row makes it GO! -
As one interested in having these for function--improved sealing and ease of access to check valve clearance more often than a road car--I don't need to have it say "Hudson" or anything else on the covers. I think you should investigate the cost of a larger production--maybe 100 pairs--without the extended machine time and see what you could offer. $600-700 is supposed to buy a cylinder head!
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I certainly understand the sticker shock, that's why I held off on a naming a price and asked what folks thought they would be willing to pay. But for the time being unless there is a HUGE demand, this is going to be a small time operation. I'm not looking to gouge, but I would like to get a little profit here and make it worth it to my friend. I think these turned out pretty slick. And like I said, after I get back I'll see what I can do and have a firmer price.
But you raise a good point Ivan, I'll see what a simple no frills, flat plate tappet cover will run.
In the meantime, the more interest, the better the price gets. If your looking for simply function, let me know guys. The simpler covers will certainly be cheaper. Get 'em anodized and they'll still be really nice.Six in a row makes it GO!



