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general help for a newbie with a rocket 88
  • waxman895
    Posts: 8Hitchhiker
    hey yall im very new to classic cars and cars themselves but im helping a friend to sell his rocket 88 and well, i can use all the help i can get on it. Would anyone know where i can get information on the car model itself? and anyone have any idea on how much i should put a price tag on it? Any and all information you'll all can give would be most helpful.

    What i know so far is its either a super or a regular rocket 88 with all orginal parts, tranny, motor, body etc. Its been garage kept for years but still has rust in several places. The engine is seized but it was taken to a mechanic and he told us that it is possible to get it turn.(so im guessing its not done?) The guy im helping selling has the title its just currently lost in his house, but hes going to find it before ill put it up on ebay. the frame itself has surface rust but doesnt appear to have anything more then that... i dunno how i could check that? im also going to try and get sum pics to see if that'll help so lemme know if they aren't up with this post. thanks yall i also have more of them if some one would like to see more of the car
    DSCN6239_127060925655296.jpg
    881 x 661 - 96K
    DSCN6233_127061036255296.jpg
    828 x 621 - 97K
    DSCN6207_127060664155296.jpg
    921 x 691 - 94K
    DSCN6215_127060970955296.jpg
    855 x 641 - 97K
    DSCN6225_127060513955296.jpg
    947 x 710 - 92K
  • waxman895
    Posts: 8Hitchhiker
    sorry also forgot to add the vin is 538m103824 if that helps at all 1 is either an I or 1 i dont know which
  • Oldcar_MechanicOldcar_Mechanic
    Posts: 1,786Platinum Member
    Welcome to the group waxman



    Your Body Plate decodes like this

    Style 53 - 3669D

    53 is the model year. In your case a 1953

    3669D is the Style number and in your case a Super 88 Deluxe

    4 door sedan.



    Body No. L 60161

    L = Lansing Michign is where the car was built

    60161 is the Production sequence number . This car BODY was the 60,161 st car BODY built for that year.



    Trim No. 83 = Blue cloth seats

    Paint No. 41 = Cadet Blue is the color of the car.

    The ACC Code T, I can't help you with. There were a lot of options for this model year so it can be anything. If you are interested in the code I could give you some sites to browse and see if anyone knows. There are a few Olds Gurus on there that may know.



    All Oldsmobiles of that year had the 303.7 CID engine with a compression ratio of 8.0:1. The difference in the cars was the carb. The two barrel engine in the 88 series had 150 H/P and the one that had the 4 barrel they put in the Super 88 and the 98 series had 165 H/P.



    The VIN number you posted is

    53 = Year 1953

    8 = Super 88 Model

    M = Michigan (Lansing)

    103824 is the sequence number.

    The starting number at each assembly plant was 1001 and ending numbers were by series at each coded plant. M = Michigan Super 88 production ended with M107336.



    As to a price for the car you will have to look at things like what other people are selling theirs for and how comperable yours is to theirs as to the condition.



    If you can get the car running or at least cranking that will help the resale for many people.



    Good luck with the car sale

    Hope some of this helps

    Ron
  • waxman895
    Posts: 8Hitchhiker
    yes it does tremendously! thank you very much good sir! Ive sold cars before just not classic cars and what youve sent has helped out a whole lot, thanks agian!
  • Oldcar_MechanicOldcar_Mechanic
    Posts: 1,786Platinum Member
    Glad to help



    Ron
  • waxman895
    Posts: 8Hitchhiker
    hey ron,

    i got ahold of some pb blaster for the engine and i was told to inject it into each cylinder once a day for about a week to try and see if i can get it turn but to be quite honest while i may know what a spark plug does and what one looks like, ive never taken them out before, is there any special tool i would need and..... can you tell me where to find them on the olds? ill admit its sad ive never replaced them b4 but now seems like a good time to learn, thanks agian
  • Oldcar_MechanicOldcar_Mechanic
    Posts: 1,786Platinum Member
    Well, we all have to start someplace so no need to worry. In this hobby there are always people willing to help others.



    The plugs take a 13/16 deep socket to get them out. Nothing difficult there. Counterclockwise to turn out. In your last picture you can see the four wires that drape over the valve cover. They go from the distributor to the spark plugs. There's four on each side of the engine. When you go to remove the wires from the plugs, twist the boot of the wire that's on the plug to break it lose because they have a tendency to adhere tightly to the plugs. While twisting the wire gently pull on the wire and it should come right off.



    What I have always done is remove the plugs and put two or three squirts of "Marvel Mystery Oil" in each cylinder. You can also use trans fluid and some have used PB Blaster. While you are waiting for the chemical to work, clean the battery connections and the starter connection and the grounds. Make sure that the battery is fully charged and after two or three days, while the plugs are still out of the engine try to crank the engine over. Another thing you may want to address while waiting is to clean and set the points so that it's ready to fire when the time comes.



    If the starter does not turn the engine over, give it a couple more days and try again or try to turn it over by turning the crankshaft pully nut with a large wrench.



    There have not been to many engines that I have worked on that would not break free with the starter that I have worked on. We had a collection of cars from a guy one time that had sat un-restored for 40 years and not one of them was froze so solid that it would not crank over afer a couple of days. Of course that is as long as there is nothing radically wrong.



    Good luck with the car and keep us posted as to what happens. If you get it cranking let us know. There more to know once you get it cranking and ready to start.



    Also you may want to drain the coolant and put fresh water in there. Check the hoses. You don't say how long the car sat without running but you also need to think about the fuel system too. I think it all depends on how far you are going to go with this car before he trys to sell it.



    Ron
  • waxman895
    Posts: 8Hitchhiker
    well hopefully this week ill be able to start on the work... college class has gotten in the way of me starting haha but another question, does having the original title add value to the sale? they gentleman im helping sell it is having trouble finding in his house, should i have him keep looking?
  • Oldcar_MechanicOldcar_Mechanic
    Posts: 1,786Platinum Member
    I don't know what state you are in, but I would say that having the title to the vehicle will aid in the sale of the it. Many states will not accept just a bil of sale.



    If he can not find it I would suggest applying for a lost title.



    Ron
  • waxman895
    Posts: 8Hitchhiker
    alright ron thanks agian ill let him know to get on that, btw the state is west virginia, in case you wanted to know for any reason
  • Oldcar_MechanicOldcar_Mechanic
    Posts: 1,786Platinum Member
    If need be he can always go to the DMV there and see what they can do for him for a new one.



    Ron