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In this Discussion
- 37 CTS September 2009
- 41 hud September 2009
- 46HudsonPU September 2009
- 66patrick66 September 2009
- bellbigdawg September 2009
- Park_W September 2009
- Richard E. September 2009
- RL Chilton September 2009
- russmaas September 2009
Running board glue???
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I'm having problems getting the new rubber for my '37 TP running boards to stick to the metal. Any ideas on what glue/cement to use and ideas on prep?:confused:"The time has come", the Walrus said, "to speak of many things. Of shoes and ships and sealing wax, of cabbages and kings. And why the sea is boiling hot,
And whether pigs have wings..." -
Use contact cement. Remember, apply to both surfaces and let dry, then put them together. It helps to use wax paper over the metal after the cement dries, as you put the rubber on to it. That way it only contacts as you are ready for it, because once it contacts, that is where it will want to stay. So take your time, the wax paper won't stick to the contact cement, it only sticks to itself. You can get it at Home Depot or really any paint store, etc.
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Richard E. wrote:
Is it the same wax paper that was sold in grocery stores (at least at one time)? Way back when, mom used to wrap our school lunch sandwiches in it...Use contact cement. Remember, apply to both surfaces and let dry, then put them together. It helps to use wax paper over the metal after the cement dries, as you put the rubber on to it. That way it only contacts as you are ready for it, because once it contacts, that is where it will want to stay. So take your time, the wax paper won't stick to the contact cement, it only sticks to itself. You can get it at Home Depot or really any paint store, etc.
I've seen some folks use multiple wooden dowels to hold the two glued items apart when using contact cement, removing them individually (from the center out, in each direction) - but I believe that was when installing countertop laminate... It would probably work in this scenario as well, with shorter dowels.
Just a thought - -
My wife's wax paper from the kitchen worked fine.
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I didn't have much luck with contact cement especially when it turn down. Instructions said to use crazy glue but that wasn't much help. If I was to do it again I would probably use contact cement on top then use an epoxy from lowes and wrap the whole thing in siran wrap and it it sit a day.
The epoxy is by the paint section and come out easy but will take about 4 tubes.
Russ -
russmaas wrote:
Don't use 'Crazy Glue' - It may take a while (1-2 years or more), but from personal experience - the glue will eventually oxidize and the parts will fall off/apart.I didn't have much luck with contact cement especially when it turn down. Instructions said to use crazy glue but that wasn't much help. If I was to do it again I would probably use contact cement on top then use an epoxy from lowes and wrap the whole thing in siran wrap and it it sit a day.
The epoxy is by the paint section and come out easy but will take about 4 tubes.
Russ
A good two part epoxy should work well, if you can keep it fully clamped down until it sets properly.
Anyone tried using 'bed liner' on the stripped/bare running boards, rather than the conventional rubber pieces from K-Gap? That appears to be what Delton Becker uses on the running boards his makes and sells for '46-47 pickups... :confused: -
bed liner would only work if you filled in the thousand holes first, then filled in the big "bracket divits" on the top of the boards. it would be the same as if you were painting them. too bad the boards are not what they seem when the original rubber is on them.
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bellbigdawg wrote:
The bigger holes, possibly. That stuff is pretty thick (depending upon roll-on or spray-on) and would fill-in pretty well. 2-3 coats in those other deep areas with enough time to dry and harden between coats(and also coated on the bottom/sides). Might be a bit thick in some areas, but that stuff is pretty tough, and I think it would turn out pretty well...bed liner would only work if you filled in the thousand holes first, then filled in the big "bracket divits" on the top of the boards. it would be the same as if you were painting them. too bad the boards are not what they seem when the original rubber is on them. -
All great ideas, gents. I had the installation instructions from k-gap at one time, but I can't seen to find them anywhere. The big problem is getting the sides to stay down while the glue is setting. Would wood clamps, or perhaps locking pliers work, with say, a 1x4 or 1x2 clamped along the length of the running board help?"The time has come", the Walrus said, "to speak of many things. Of shoes and ships and sealing wax, of cabbages and kings. And why the sea is boiling hot,
And whether pigs have wings..." -
Try carpet cement. once its down ,its down
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66patrick66 wrote:
Sounds like that should work. You'll need plenty of clamps, and make sure that it is 'down tight' (both vertically and horizontally).All great ideas, gents. I had the installation instructions from k-gap at one time, but I can't seen to find them anywhere. The big problem is getting the sides to stay down while the glue is setting. Would wood clamps, or perhaps locking pliers work, with say, a 1x4 or 1x2 clamped along the length of the running board help? -
When I installed my running board mats on my 29H, I scuffed the bottom side of the mat with steel wool or a scotchbrite pad to scuff the surface so it was not smooth, this allows the glue to dig in and adhere better. I used brushable rubber body side moulding glue from a body shop supply store
After a day of clamping down the mats,using some plywood, a day or two in the sun cured the glue and flattened the mats down and took care of bubbles. -
37 CTS wrote:When I installed my running board mats on my 29H, I scuffed the bottom side of the mat with steel wool or a scotchbrite pad to scuff the surface so it was not smooth, this allows the glue to dig in and adhere better. I used brushable rubber body side moulding glue from a body shop supply store
After a day of clamping down the mats,using some plywood, a day or two in the sun cured the glue and flattened the mats down and took care of bubbles.
Lots of good ideas here, but this is the best so far. Really a good example of "How many ways are there to skin a cat". Answer: a bunch, but only one really right way.
Another good adhesive would be 3M weatherstrip glue, but depending on the thickness of the rubber, might not "even out" enough not to leave bumps. I would not use the contact cement you buy at Home Depot type stores. Heat is going to be a killer on that any longevity is going to be a factor. Also, if you go this route, wax paper is the way to go. Dowels work, but better with rigid materials. The rubber might require too many dowels (or better small square dowels so they don't roll around on you) placed close together to be practical, but would still work. Clamps and weights would work fine, as well, if needed.
3M also makes a spray glue in aerosol can that works like an adhesive, would weather well, go on uniformly and works like a contact cement. In time if needed, it could easily be removed and re-done. The brushable type of contact cement that comes in a can (and used for laminates), if it lasted, would require the removal of rubber by chisel.
On a lighter note, this thread's title threw me for a loop when I first read it.
"Running board glue???". I'm in the middle of reading Public Enemies, and have yet to see the new movie made from the book. An interesting tidbit was that bankrobbers in the thirties would often grab hostages during the ensuing escape after a bank job and, not only use them as human shields, but also hold their arms from inside the car whilst the hostages were left standing on the running boards. My first thought was, hmmm. Running board glue . . . yeah, that way they didn't have to hold their arms!!
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I have blasted, epoxy prime powdercoated, then urethane powdercoated on top of the epoxy. when using the KGAP running board rubbers, what do you do with the 1/2" deep or deeper divits in the boards where the bracket mount channel is tacked on? do you just fill them with rubber like Hudson did originally, or bondo them up, or???? anyone got ideas on this?? do the KGAP running board rubbers go over the front and rear fender mount areas like the originals do?? I am getting ready to buy these, and for that price want to do right also. buy the way, these running boards are from my 41 pickup.
